Visiting the Palace of Versailles: A Complete Guide from Paris
Gilded Grandeur: Secrets and History of the Palace of Versailles
The Palace of Versailles isn't just a big house with a nice garden. It's the ultimate flex in architectural history, built to basically tell the rest of Europe, "Look at us, we have so much money we can turn a swamp into the world's most famous backdrop for political drama and bad wigs."
Located just southwest of Paris, this place makes most other royal residences look like garden sheds. We're talking 2,300 rooms, 67 staircases, and a garden so large you could misplace a small army in it. Which, historically, they sometimes did.
Watch "London Paris Eurostar Château de Versailles Musée du Louvre la Tour Eiffel & Paris Zurich TGV Lyria"
Prefer your history with a soundtrack? Watch the part of our Europe trip that covers Versailles (link to full video). It has fewer silent, judgmental portraits and more moving trains.
A Journey Through Time: Riding the Rails from Paris to Versailles
The journey from the chaos of Paris to the organized extravagance of Versailles begins with a surprisingly normal train ride. Your launchpad is Gare Montparnasse, a station so functional and bustling it feels like the complete opposite of the gilded palace you're headed to.
We started from near Gare de l'Est, hopping on a train that deposited us at Montparnasse in about half an hour. From there, it's a simple switch to one of the many commuter trains headed to Versailles-Chantiers. It's a commute so routine, you half expect to see people heading to office jobs in the palace. "Another day, another revolution to quell."
You can also take the RER C Line, which starts near famous spots like the Musée d'Orsay and the Eiffel Tower. This train makes stops at Versailles-Château, Versailles-Chantiers, and Versailles-Rive Gauche. The trip takes about 30 to 40 minutes, depending on how many times you miss your stop while staring out the window at the Parisian suburbs.
The train is a rolling UN of anticipation. You've got tourists vibrating with excitement next to commuters who look like they're just heading to another Tuesday. The contrast is beautiful.
Stepping off the train in Versailles is like entering a different century, if that century had gift shops and overpriced ice cream. The town itself is charming, with a vibe that whispers, "Yes, we know we live next to the most famous palace in the world. The bakery lines are terrible on weekends."
As you walk toward the palace, the scale of the thing starts to dawn on you. The Palace of Versailles is a masterpiece of Baroque and Rococo architecture, which are basically styles that answer the question, "What if we used every single decorative item in the catalog?"
"To see Versailles is to see everything." – Voltaire, who probably got a neck ache from looking at all the ceilings.
Palace of Versailles
To the Glory of France (à toutes les gloires de la France)
That motto, inscribed inside, isn't subtle. Versailles was designed to be a physical manifestation of French power, culture, and the ego of one particularly notable king. It worked a little too well, eventually becoming a symbol of royal excess that helped fuel a revolution. Whoops.
The architecture is textbook French Baroque: think symmetry, grandeur, and a decoration budget that would make a modern billionaire blush. It was expanded over decades in the 17th and 18th centuries, serving as the ultimate power address until 1789, when the locals decided they'd had enough of power addresses.
Fun fact: The palace's famous façade is made from a soft limestone that weathers poorly. It's been restored so many times that it's basically a architectural version of "The Ship of Theseus." Is it still the original palace if all the stones have been replaced?
History of Versailles Palace
It all started with a humble hunting lodge built for King Louis XIII. His son, Louis XIV, took one look at it and said, "This won't do." What followed was the 17th-century version of a massive home renovation show, but with less arguing and more absolute power.
Louis XIV wanted a palace that would keep his ambitious nobles close, distracted, and in debt from trying to keep up with court fashion. He succeeded spectacularly. The court moved here in 1682, and Versailles became the stage for a century of political maneuvering, scandal, and parties that would make a Hollywood awards show look tame.
Life at court was a bizarre, ritualized performance. Nobles would compete for the honor of handing the king his shirt in the morning, a ceremony called the levée. Your entire social standing could hinge on whether you got to hold the royal left sleeve or the right one.
The party ended abruptly in 1789 with the French Revolution. The royal family was hauled back to Paris, and the palace was looted. Furniture was smashed, artwork was stolen, and the symbols of monarchy were gleefully destroyed. It was the world's most expensive and historically significant garage sale.
After the revolution, the palace sat neglected until King Louis-Philippe I had a bright idea in the 1830s. Instead of letting it crumble, he turned it into a museum dedicated to "all the glories of France." It was a political move to unite the country, and it worked. The palace reopened in 1837 and has been amazing and exhausting visitors ever since.
Today, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site that pulls in over 7.5 million visitors a year. It's still an official residence of the French Republic, used for state functions. So technically, you're touring someone's very, very large weekend home.
"I shall see the glories of the world, but never again such a glory as Versailles." – Henry Adams, who clearly didn't have to fight the summer crowds.
King Louis XIV: The OG Sun King
You can't talk about Versailles without talking about the man who built it: Louis XIV. He reigned for 72 years, the longest of any European monarch. He believed in the divine right of kings and his own personal branding as the "Sun King." His emblem was a sun, his rituals revolved around solar cycles, and his ego was, appropriately, astronomical.
Sun Kings: A Very Old Power Trick
Louis XIV wasn’t unique. Across ancient civilizations, rulers claimed solar ancestry because calling yourself the child of the Sun was excellent politics and hard to fact-check.
The Maya civilization tied kings to solar gods like Kinich Ahau (Mexico). The Inca emperors ruled as sons of Inti, the Inca Sun god (Peru). Nearby, the Tiwanaku and Aymara civilizations built precise solar alignments long before Versailles found gold leaf (Bolivia & Chile).
In Ancient Egypt, Pharaohs were the sons of Ra, the Egyptian Sun god (Egypt). In India, solar dynasties like the Suryavansha run from Vedic civilization to living tradition (India).
At Palace of Versailles, the Apollo imagery on the Hall of Mirrors ceiling makes Louis XIV’s message clear: the Sun rises, sets, and reflects entirely on schedule.
A lesser-known fact: Louis XIV was an avid dancer and performed in over 40 court ballets until his weight gain made it... undignified. He also had a fistula surgery on his anus in 1686 that was so successful, courtiers pretended to want the same operation just to be like him. Yes, really.
Queen Marie Antoinette: More Than Cake
Marie Antoinette is history's most famous scapegoat. The Austrian archduchess married the future Louis XVI at 14 and became queen at 19. She was criticized for her spending, her fashion, and her supposed detachment, famously (and likely falsely) quoted as saying "Let them eat cake."
Quirkier trivia: She had a private hamlet built on the grounds, the Hameau de la Reine, where she and her friends would dress as shepherdesses and pretend to farm. It was the 18th-century version of rich people going glamping, and it did not endear her to actual starving peasants.
King Louis-Philippe I: The Museum Maker
King Louis-Philippe I, the "Citizen King," ruled during the July Monarchy. He wasn't from the main Bourbon line and positioned himself as a monarch for the middle class. His greatest legacy at Versailles was saving it by turning it into a museum in 1837.
Top Attractions of the Palace of Versailles
The palace is so vast you'd need multiple lifetimes to see it all. Here's a rundown of the must-see spots, in roughly the order you might encounter them while trying not to get lost.
Pro tip: Download a map (large visitors' map) or you'll spend half your day wandering corridors that all look identical and are filled with paintings of men in wigs.
The Equestrian Statue of King Louis XIV
This dramatic bronze statue in the Place d'Armes shows Louis XIV on a rearing horse, looking every bit the absolute monarch. It's a copy; the original is inside. The sculptor, Pierre Cartellier, died after finishing only the horse. His student, Louis Petitot, completed the king, which feels like a metaphor for the entire palace project.
The Royal Opera House
The Opéra Royal is a masterpiece of 18th-century theater design. It was built in just two years for the wedding of the future Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. The catch? It's made almost entirely of wood, painted to look like marble (faux marble). This wasn't a cost-saving measure; wood provides fantastic acoustics. The palace architects were basically acoustic engineers in wigs.
The Honor Gate and The Golden Fence
This is the main gilded gate you pass through to enter the inner courtyard. The Grille Royale is a masterpiece of wrought iron, adorned with the royal coat of arms and Louis XIV's sun symbol. It was completed in 1684 and was one of the main entrances for the king and important guests.
"Gardens, architecture, and fountains are the three parts that constitute the beauty of Versailles." – Louis de Rouvroy, duc de Saint-Simon, who lived there and probably got very tired of the walk to breakfast.
The Golden Fence (Grille d'Or) that surrounds the grounds is over 3 kilometers long and 4 meters high, made from over 30,000 iron bars. Its purpose was twofold: keep the riff-raff out, and impress the heck out of anyone who saw it. Mission accomplished.
The Royal Chapel
This two-story chapel is a riot of white stone, gold, and painted ceilings. The lower level was for commoners and courtiers, the upper balcony was the royal family's private box. Attending mass here was less about spirituality and more about seeing and being seen by the king.
The Museum of Creation & Other Curiosities
The La Création du Musée room is where you learn how this palace became a museum. It's filled with models, paintings, and oddities that didn't fit elsewhere. It's like the palace's attic, but with better labeling.
Monkeys Riding Goats: Aesop's Fables
Among the most charming survivors are these whimsical lead sculptures of monkeys riding goats. They're from a lost garden feature called the Labyrinth of Versailles, which contained 38 sculptures illustrating Aesop's Fables. The labyrinth was destroyed in the 18th century, but a few of these quirky figures remain.
The Labyrinth was a network of hedged paths with fountains and these sculptures at junctions. It was a place for relaxation and education, destroyed because it was too expensive to maintain. A fittingly Versailles story: even the fun things got axed by the budget.
Painting of Louis-Philippe I & Mini Statue
A large painting shows Louis-Philippe I and his five sons leaving the palace after a military review in 1837, the year the museum opened. In front of it sits a small bronze replica of the Louis XIV equestrian statue. It's a poignant juxtaposition: the king who built the palace, and the king who saved it by turning it into a public treasure.
Marie Antoinette in the Park of Trianon
The final gem in this room is a beautiful 1785 painting by Adolf Ulrik Wertmüller. It shows Marie Antoinette walking in the Park of Trianon with two of her children. It's a rare, intimate glimpse of the queen as a mother, away from the stifling court.
And that's just a taste of the palace interior. We haven't even touched the Gardens of Versailles, the Grand Trianon, or the Hamlet—each worthy of their own blog post and several thousand more steps on your fitness tracker.
Versailles is overwhelming, breathtaking, and a little ridiculous. It’s a monument to what humans can achieve with unlimited resources, unchecked power, and a profound lack of subtlety. Walking its halls, you can't decide whether to be inspired or to laugh at the sheer audacity of it all. We recommend doing both.
Louis Garnier's Sneaky Art Club: Le Parnasse français
Tucked away by the Marble Staircase, Louis Garnier's bronze beast Le Parnasse français is basically the 18th century's ultimate French celebrity shout-out. Forget Mount Olympus—this is Mount Parnassus, the mythical Greek pad where the nine Muses crashed. Garnier decided it was the perfect spot for Apollo to host a star-studded French soiree.
The sculpture is over two meters tall, which is about the height of a very ambitious basketball player. Apollo lounges on top, probably composing a sonnet, while the Muses plot their next artistic move. The real fun is down below: miniature statues of French literary and musical royalty like Molière, Racine, and Lully. It's like the world's fanciest trophy case, if trophies were gilt-bronze and immortal.
Garnier's masterpiece was unveiled in 1732 to instant acclaim. Placing it right at the first-floor landing of the Marble Staircase was a power move. It was the artistic equivalent of a bouncer at a velvet rope, setting the tone for the insane luxury waiting upstairs.
The Marble Staircase: Your Grand Entrance to Royal Anxiety
Speaking of which, the Marble Staircase (Escalier de Marbre) wasn't for schlepping laundry. This was the red carpet of 17th-century France, connecting the ground floor to the Royal Apartments. Its double-revolution design meant two sweeping flights spiraling around a central landing—perfect for dramatic entrances and even more dramatic exits.
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The Marble Staircase with Garnier's sculpture. This view perfectly captures the Baroque obsession with awe. The staircase is a masterclass in psychological architecture. As you climbed, the sound of your footsteps on marble echoed, your reflection flashed in the polished stone, and Garnier's bronze gods watched your every move. By the time you reached the top, you were already primed to be impressed—or intimidated. Photo: Jorge Láscar via Flickr (CC BY 2.0) |
The balustrades are a frenzy of gilded wrought-iron, curling and twisting like frozen fireworks. It's the kind of detail that makes you wonder how many artisans went cross-eyed making it.
"Versailles is not a palace; it is an entire city, superbly built and decorated, where the King and all his court live in a sort of enchantment." – Ézéchiel Spanheim, diplomat, 1690.
During Louis XIV's reign, this staircase was the main artery of power. Ambassadors, dukes, and the king himself navigated these steps in a carefully choreographed ballet of social climbing. The view from the top landing, looking down, was reserved for the monarch—a literal and metaphorical high ground.
From the upper landing, the doors to the King's Apartment frame a killer view of the gardens. It was Louis XIV's way of reminding everyone that his domain stretched from the gilded interior to the meticulously ordered horizon.
Louis XIV: The Ultimate Arts Patron (According to Himself)
Hanging at the landing is Henri Testelin's not-so-humble brag, "Louis XIV Protector of the Academy." Commissioned by the Royal Academy itself in 1667, this painting is the 17th-century equivalent of a framed "Employee of the Month" award, if the employee was a king who funded your paychecks.
"The King wishes that the arts should find in France a new homeland." – Jean-Baptiste Colbert, Louis XIV's finance minister and superintendent of buildings, 1663.
The Scepter of Charlemagne: Not Your Average Stick
That scepter Louis is clutching? That's the Scepter of Charles V, aka the scepter of Charlemagne. This isn't just a fancy gold rod; it's the ultimate symbol of French monarchical continuity, a Gothic masterpiece that links the king directly to the first Holy Roman Emperor.
The scepter's journey is wild. Used in coronations for centuries, it survived the French Revolution by the skin of its teeth. Revolutionaries melted down most of the French Crown Jewels, but this piece, along with a few others, was saved as a "historical monument." It now lives at the Louvre, a silent witness to the end of the monarchy it once embodied.
Doors So Fancy You'll Forget What They're For
Heading from the staircase toward the Hall of the Kings, we encountered our first of Versailles' many "statement doors." This one is a white marble masterpiece slathered in gilt bronze, featuring Hercules, Mercury, Venus, and reliefs of Louis XIV's greatest hits.
Versailles is lousy with these ornate barriers. Each one is a finely carved marble slab framed in glitzy bronze, covered in floral motifs and mythic scenes. They're less doors and more wearable art for walls.
The Hallway of the Kings: A Bust-iful Family Reunion
Next up: the Hallway of the Kings (Galerie des Rois). This 105-meter-long promenade runs parallel to the Hall of Mirrors and is basically a marble corridor lined with the stone-faced ancestors of French monarchy.
The hall is 13 meters wide and lined with 17 busts covering 1,300 years of French monarchy, from the legendary Pharamond to the Sun King himself. It was designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart and built between 1682 and 1687. This wasn't just a hallway; it was a walking timeline of divinely sanctioned power.
"The palace of Versailles is the work of a king who wished to immortalize the memory of his reign, not by the extent of his conquests, but by the magnificence of his buildings." – Voltaire, The Century of Louis XIV, 1751.
"The visitor to Versailles walks through a forest of marble and gold, where every surface speaks of power and every corridor leads to history." – John Evelyn, English diarist, from his travels in France, 1644.
"In France, history is not merely studied; it is walked through, room by room, in palaces that themselves became the stage for the making of history." – Thomas Jefferson, from his travel journals during his time as U.S. Minister to France, 1785.
The Vestibule of the Royal Chapel: Heaven's Waiting Room
Next, we ducked into the Vestibule of the Royal Chapel (Salon de la Chapelle). This 22-by-11-meter antechamber is the spiritual buffer zone before the main chapel, and it doesn't hold back.
"To see Versailles is to understand France; its grandeur, its art, its history, and the very soul of its people are written in marble and gold within these walls." – Charles Dickens, from his travelogue "Pictures from Italy and France", 1846.
Two statues dominate the room. First, Jacques Bousseau's "Royal Magnanimity" (La Magnanimité Royale). Commissioned by Louis XIV in 1726, it's a female figure with a sceptre and an open hand, a lion and cornucopia at her feet. It's all about the king's noble generosity and power to forgive—or at least, that's the idea he wanted to sell.
"The French have a genius for making even piety magnificent; their churches are palaces for God, and Versailles is the supreme example of this divine architecture." – Madame de Staël, from "Ten Years of Exile", 1818.
Across the way, Antoine Vassé's statue "Glory holding the portrait of Louis XV" does for the next king what Bousseau's did for his great-grandfather. A personified Glory holds a portrait of Louis XV, linking the king's rule to divine favor.
"In the great theaters of European power, none was more carefully stage-managed than Versailles, where every glance, every gesture, every piece of art served the drama of absolute monarchy." – Simon Schama, from "Citizens: A Chronicle of the French Revolution", 1989.
The vestibule is a sensory overload of marble columns, gilded doors, intricate stucco, and frescoed ceilings depicting religious and royal themes. Three massive windows flood the space with light, illuminating the 18,000 fleurs-de-lis in the marble floor.
"The light of France has a particular quality; it seems to illuminate not just objects but ideas, to make marble glow and gold shimmer with a life of its own." – Henry James, from "A Little Tour in France", 1884.
The play of light and shadow in this room throughout the day was a calculated part of its design, making the statues seem almost alive as the sun moved.
"Architecture is the thoughtful making of space, and at Versailles, every space was made to tell a story of power, divinity, and royal authority." – Louis Kahn, architect, from his lecture "The Room, the Street, and Human Agreement", 1971.
From the King's Gallery, the view of the chapel is intimate and overwhelming. The majestic ceiling painted by Antoine Coypel, depicting God the Father in Glory, feels close enough to touch.
"The chapel of Versailles is the most superb in Europe... one sees nothing equal to it for richness and taste." – The Duc de Saint-Simon, Memoirs, circa 1740.
"At Versailles, even worship was theatrical, with the king playing both leading role and audience in the divine drama." – Nancy Mitford, from "The Sun King", 1966.
The rest of our visit to the vestibule was a neck-craning exercise in admiring the frescoed ceilings, which depict various allegories of religion and monarchy in dizzying detail.
"The ceilings of Versailles are like open books of mythology and allegory, where gods and heroes descend to pay homage to France and her kings." – Anthony Blunt, from "Art and Architecture in France, 1500-1700", 1953.
Each fresco panel was a collaborative effort, with specialists for figures, landscapes, and architecture. The speed at which these vast surfaces were painted is mind-boggling.
"The art of Versailles was not mere decoration; it was the visual language of power, speaking in colors more expensive than gold and forms more persuasive than words." – Robert Hughes, from "The Shock of the New", 1980.
"In the silent language of stone and stucco, Versailles whispers secrets of craftsmanship lost to time, of hands that shaped beauty for eyes they would never see." – Orhan Pamuk, from "The Museum of Innocence", 2008.
"At Versailles, even the ceilings preach obedience." – Anonymous courtier's observation, circa 1715.
"Hope, like the frescoes of Versailles, requires both vision and pigment, both dream and substance to make it real." – Rebecca Solnit, from "Hope in the Dark", 2004.
"Charity at Versailles was both virtue and strategy, a display of royal benevolence meant to justify the very extravagance that made such displays possible." – J. H. Elliott, from "Richelieu and Olivares", 1984.
These ceiling frescoes weren't just decorative; they were a comprehensive visual theology that positioned the French monarchy at the center of a moral universe.
"The frescoes of Versailles are not merely paintings; they are the king's thoughts made visible, his ambitions rendered in color and light." – Art historian Pierre Rosenberg.
The vestibule, designed by Hardouin-Mansart and completed in 1710, is a perfect capsule of late Baroque opulence. It was restored in the 19th century, but its soul is pure Sun King.
The King's State Apartment: Where Louis Lived (Lavishly)
Finally, we reached the King's State Apartment—the suite of seven rooms that served as the monarch's official residence. This is where Louis XIV slept, ate, worked, and performed the bizarre public ritual of the lever (rising) and coucher (going to bed).
Hercules Room: A Ceiling That Will Give You a Neck Ache
The Hercules Room (Salon d'Hercule) is a reception hall that takes its theme seriously. The entire ceiling is François Lemoyne's 1736 fresco "The Apotheosis of Hercules," where the hero is welcomed to Mount Olympus. It's one of the largest ceiling paintings in Europe, and looking at it for too long might make you feel slightly deified yourself.
The room also hosts two massive paintings by Paolo Veronese, "Rebecca at the Well" and "Feast in the House of Simon." These Venetian Renaissance masterpieces were diplomatic gifts, and their size meant they've been on a Louvre-Versailles shuttle for centuries.
"Versailles... a place where the very gold seems to have been sown rather than applied." – Pierre de Nolhac, historian and curator of Versailles, 1890s.
"Great art travels through history as both witness and participant, its journey tracing the contours of power and taste across centuries." – Jonathan Jones, art critic for The Guardian, 2015.
The Abundance Room: A Cozy (and Green) Treasure Chest
The Abundance Room (Salon de l'Abondance) is a small, jewel-box of an antechamber in the King's Apartment. It's only 8 by 7.5 meters, but it's packed with green marble and gold, and a ceiling fresco by Jean-Baptiste Jouvenet celebrating the "Abundance of the Earth."
The ceiling fresco is a bucolic scene of harvest and winemaking, a not-so-subtle reminder that the king's wealth sprang from the fertile land of France itself.
"The smallest rooms at Versailles often held the greatest treasures, as if the king's most precious secrets required the most intimate spaces." – Amanda Foreman, from "The World Made by Women", 2023.
Every piece of furniture and decor in this room was chosen to complement the theme of natural wealth and royal benevolence.
"Rococo was the style that taught gold to dance, that made ornamentation seem as natural as leaves on a vine." – Kenneth Clark, from "Civilisation", 1969.
The Abundance Room is a perfect, compact summary of Versailles' goals: to stun with beauty, overwhelm with wealth, and narrate a story of perfect kingship, all within four green marble walls.
"To collect is to curate one's own immortality, gathering fragments of beauty and history as anchors against time's flow." – Susan Sontag, from "On Photography", 1977.
Leaving the Abundance Room, we felt we'd glimpsed the private face of royal power—a space for study, reflection, and the quiet enjoyment of unimaginable treasure.
"One must allow the eye to be dazzled in order to understand Versailles." – Évelyne Lever, historian, Louis XIV.
Our journey through the upper levels of Versailles—from the artistic statement of the Marble Staircase to the private luxury of the King's Apartment—was a masterclass in how architecture, art, and symbolism can fuse to create absolute power. Every step, every glance, was designed to reinforce one simple, staggering idea: the king was the state, and the state was a divine masterpiece.
The Venus Room, King's Apartment
We wandered into the Venus Room expecting romance and maybe some classical charm. Instead, we found Louis XIV throwing some serious Roman Emperor vibes. Charles Le Brun, the king's official painter, went all out with a ceiling showing Venus being crowned by the Graces. The walls? They're covered in panels of mythological heroes and heroines who, apparently, all got their mojo from the goddess of love.
This wasn't just a pretty room for parties. Foreign ambassadors got their first dose of royal intimidation here. The king would hold court, turning social gatherings into power plays. The restored Jean Varin sculpture of Louis as a Roman emperor adds to the "I am a god" atmosphere—it's one of the few full-length statues of the Sun King that survived his successors' urge to melt things down for cash.
"Versailles is not a palace; it is an entire city, superb in its gold, its sculptures, and its paintings." – Marie de Rabutin-Chantal, the Marquise de Sévigné, 1677
The Diana Room, King's Apartment
Next up was the Diana Room, the king's billiards den. Because what says "absolute monarch" like potting a few balls after a hard day of signing treaties? Charles Le Brun's ceiling shows Diana, goddess of the hunt, racing across the sky in her chariot. The walls are covered with hunting scenes, because apparently, even the gods needed a hobby.
The room's real showstopper is a bust of Louis by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. The Italian sculptor captured the king in his prime, with flowing hair and that signature haughty stare. It's like a 17th-century celebrity headshot.
Then there's the replica of the Farnese Bull, a colossal statue depicting a gruesome Greek myth. The original is in Naples; this copy by Jean Cornu reminds everyone that royal entertainment sometimes involved mythological revenge plots.
Gabriel Blanchard's painting "Diana and Endymion" shows the goddess creeping into a cave to kiss a sleeping shepherd. She then puts him into eternal sleep so she can admire him forever. It's a bit creepy, but hey, goddesses gonna goddess.
The Mars Room, King's Apartment
Walking into the Mars Room felt like stepping into a military command center with a serious interior design addiction. Dedicated to the god of war, this was Louis XIV's throne room. Charles Le Brun's ceiling shows Mars riding a chariot pulled by wolves, because nothing says "peaceful reign" like a god associated with bloodshed.
"A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step." – Lao Tzu
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness." – Mark Twain
The throne itself was placed in the center of the room. Foreign dignitaries would approach, probably trying not to look at the terrifying war imagery surrounding them. The room doubled as a ballroom because nothing says "fun party" like being watched by a god of war.
"In France, we have three hundred cheeses and three hundred ways of making war." – Charles de Gaulle (Centuries later, but the sentiment feels right for the Mars Room)
"Not all those who wander are lost." – J.R.R. Tolkien
The Mercury Room (Bedroom of Louis XIV), King's Apartment
The Mercury Room served as Louis XIV's ceremonial bedchamber. Yes, the king had multiple bedrooms because sleeping in the same room every night is apparently for commoners. The room is named for the Roman god of commerce and messengers, which seems an odd choice for a bedroom until you remember Louis saw himself as the center of all communication in France.
The ceiling fresco by Jean-Baptiste de Champaigne shows Mercury in his chariot pulled by two roosters. Roosters, being early risers, were symbols of vigilance—a subtle hint that the king was always watching, even in his sleep.
The room holds dark historical significance: Louis XIV's coffin was displayed here for eight days in 1715 so the public could pay their respects. The Sun King's final performance had a captive audience.
Among the artworks are portraits of Louis XV and his wife, Queen Marie Leszczyńska. There's also an incredible clock by Antoine Morand that shows its internal workings and puts on a mechanical show. Louis loved gadgets almost as much as he loved himself.
"The journey not the arrival matters." – T.S. Eliot
"Adventure is worthwhile." – Aesop
"A clock that shows its insides is like a king who shows his policies: both are rare and both are fascinating." – Adapted from a 1680 French court memoir
The War Room
From the Mercury Room, we moved to the War Room, located at one end of the Hall of Mirrors. If the Mars Room was about war as mythology, this room was about war as policy. Designed by Jules Hardouin-Mansart, it was Louis XIV's actual office where he planned military campaigns.
The ceiling shows Victoria, goddess of victory, crowning Louis. Surrounding panels depict more scenes of the king trouncing various enemies. The room is decorated with actual trophies of war—cannons, standards, weapons—taken from defeated armies.
"Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world." – Gustave Flaubert
From the War Room, you get your first breathtaking view down the Hall of Mirrors. It's a strategic placement—after discussing war, you walk into a gallery that represents the ultimate peace and prosperity that war (theoretically) brings.
The Hall of Mirrors
And then, there it was. The Hall of Mirrors. No photo prepares you for the real thing. At 73 meters long, lined with 17 mirrored arches opposite 17 windows, it's a Baroque fantasy of light, glass, and gold. Charles Le Brun's ceiling tells the story of Louis XIV's early reign through 30 painted panels. It's less a hallway and more a 240-foot-long flex.
We learned a fun fact: The mirrors weren't just for vanity. They were a political statement. Venice had a monopoly on large mirror production, so Louis XIV poached Venetian artisans to start France's own mirror industry. Every reflection was a middle finger to Venetian trade dominance.
"The Hall of Mirrors is where light becomes a courtier, reflecting the glory of the king back upon itself in infinite repetition." – 18th-century French architectural treatise
"Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all." – Helen Keller
The Peace Room
At the opposite end of the Hall of Mirrors from the War Room is its thematic counterpart: the Peace Room. If the War Room was about conflict, this room is about the prosperity that follows. It's decorated with olive branches, cornucopias, and allegories of abundance.
"I haven't been everywhere, but it's on my list." – Susan Sontag
The centerpiece is François Lemoyne's painting "Louis XV Giving an Olive Branch to Europe." It shows the king as peacemaker, which is historically questionable but artistically impressive. The fireplace below features a relief of Mercury, again tying commerce to peace.
Three large windows flood the Peace Room with light. The decorated columns between them are masterpieces of gilded woodwork. From here, a door leads to the Queen's State Apartment—a whole different world of feminine power and style.
"Travel far enough, you meet yourself." – David Mitchell
"The use of traveling is to regulate imagination by reality, and instead of thinking how things may be, to see them as they are." – Samuel Johnson
The Queen's State Apartment
Stepping through that door felt like entering another universe. The Queen's Apartment, occupied most famously by Marie Antoinette, is a world of silk, pastels, and relative (emphasis on relative) intimacy. While the king's spaces screamed power, the queen's whispered luxury.
The apartment was originally decorated for Louis XIV's wife, Maria Theresa, but each queen put her stamp on it. Marie Antoinette updated it in the latest Neoclassical style, replacing some of the heavy Baroque with lighter, more delicate designs.
Queen's Royal Bedchamber, Queen's Apartment
The queen's bedroom features that famous four-poster bed, swathed in silk and crowned with ostrich plumes. The walls are covered in delicate floral-patterned silk, a far cry from the martial reds of the king's apartments. It feels like a room designed for actual living, not just performing royalty.
The ceiling, painted by Charles de La Fosse, shows an allegory of the four continents paying homage to France. Because even the queen's bedroom needed to remind everyone of French global dominance.
"The Queen's apartment is a jewel box, every surface glittering with gold and silver, every fabric whispering luxury. It is both a sanctuary and a cage." – Madame Campan, Marie Antoinette's lady-in-waiting
"We travel, some of us forever, to seek other states, other lives, other souls." – Anaïs Nin
"A traveler without observation is a bird without wings." – Moslih Eddin Saadi
"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." – Henry Miller
The Nobles' Room, Queen's Apartment
Next was the Nobles' Room, the queen's grand antechamber where she held formal audiences. It's decorated in lavish Baroque style with gilded paneling and portraits of French queens. This was where the queen's "circle" gathered—ladies of the court who attended her daily.
"To travel is to take a journey into yourself." – Danny Kaye
"The gladdest moment in human life, me thinks, is a departure into unknown lands." – Sir Richard Burton
"Travel and change of place impart new vigor to the mind." – Seneca
The Queen's Antechamber, Queen's Apartment
The final room we visited was the Queen's Antechamber, also known as the Queen's Royal Table Antechamber. This was where guests waited before dining with the queen at her formal meals. It's another stunning space, slightly more intimate than the Nobles' Room but no less lavish.
"To dine with the Queen was to enter a world of exquisite refinement, where every gesture was choreographed, every conversation measured, and every dish a work of art." – Duc de Luynes, courtier
"The man who goes alone can start today; but he who travels with another must wait till that other is ready." – Henry David Thoreau
"The journey is the destination." – Dan Eldon
"The world is big and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark." – John Muir
The Queen's Antechamber: Versailles' Royal Waiting Room
We've waited in some awkward places, but the Queen's Antechamber at Versailles takes the gilded cake. This crimson-drenched holding pen was where nervous nobles cooled their heels before dining with Her Majesty. Imagine the palace equivalent of "the soufflé isn't ready yet, have a seat and try not to touch anything."
"Versailles is not a palace; it is an entire city, superbly built and decorated, where the king and his court live with splendor and magnificence." – Madame de Sévigné, 1676
The Queen's Guard Room: A Time Capsule
We moved from the queen's emotional propaganda to her physical protection detail. The Queen's Guard Room (Salle de la Garde de la Reine) is a fascinating oddity.
It’s the only room in her entire apartment that still looks exactly as it did under Louis XIV. Forget Marie Antoinette's pastels; this is all Noël Coypel paintings and serious marble. This was where the Swiss Guards—yes, the ones with the fancy uniforms—stood watch.
"Versailles is the image of the power of France, and the power of France is the image of Versailles." – Charles de Gaulle
We noticed the room was partially roped off, with subtle signs of restoration underway. It seems even a 300-year-old time capsule needs a little touch-up now and then.
The Gallery of Battles: France's Epic Comic Book
Next, we entered the Gallery of Battles (Galerie des Batailles). This is not your quiet art gallery. It's a 120-meter-long hallway that screams French military pride. Think of it as a 19th-century IMAX theater, but with oil paintings.
King Louis-Philippe I, the "Citizen King," commissioned it in the 1830s. His goal? To unite a post-revolution, post-Napoleon France by glorifying 1,300 years of military history, from Clovis to Waterloo. It's a masterclass in nation-building through art.
"I have made verses all my life; I have lived like a poet, and I shall die like one." – King Louis-Philippe I, who also, apparently, lived like a man who really liked big war paintings.
"The Gallery of Battles at Versailles is the most extraordinary monument to military glory ever conceived—a temple where history is painted in blood and gold." – Victor Hugo
The gallery’s historical accuracy is... debatable. It’s a curated highlight reel. Glorious victories are front and center, while messy defeats or complex politics are neatly sidestepped. It’s history as a morale-boosting tool, and it’s spectacularly effective.
"In the Hall of Battles, one does not merely see history; one is overwhelmed by it. The paintings are so vast they swallow you whole, as if the battles themselves are still raging." – Jules Michelet
"To make a great army, you need strong men; to have strong men, you must feed them well." – Napoleon Bonaparte. The gallery, notably, does not depict the army's catering corps.
"The Gallery of Battles is Louis-Philippe's answer to the Hall of Mirrors: where Louis XIV reflected his own glory, Louis-Philippe reflected the glory of France itself." – François-René de Chateaubriand
Before we hit the gardens, a quick note: the gallery is just one wing of the Museum of the History of France, which takes up much of the palace's south wing. Versailles isn't just a royal home; it's a purpose-built national museum, a concept ahead of its time.
The Gardens of Versailles: Where Nature Gets a Math Degree
Stepping outside is a shock to the system. After the dark, dramatic gallery, the Gardens of Versailles explode with light, space, and absurdly perfect geometry.
Designed by André Le Nôtre, they are the ultimate expression of the French formal garden. The core idea? Demonstrate absolute human control over nature. Every tree, path, and fountain is part of a grand Cartesian equation.
"The gardens of Versailles are the finest in the world; they contain everything that art and nature can furnish that is grand and beautiful." – John Locke, 1678. He wasn't wrong, though he probably didn't have to help weed the parterres.
The Trianons: Royal Playhouses
Tucked away in the northwestern corner of the estate are the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon. If the main palace is the office, these are the executive getaway cabins.
The word "Trianon" comes from the village that stood here before Louis XIV bought the land and erased it. He built the "Porcelain Trianon" first (walls of blue-and-white faience tiles), which leaked, so he replaced it with the marble Grand Trianon.
"The Grand Trianon is the perfect expression of the French art of living—a palace that is at once intimate and majestic, where every detail speaks of refinement and pleasure." – Évelyne Lever
Petit Trianon: Marie Antoinette's Sanctuary
A short walk away is the Petit Trianon, a gem of transition from Rococo to Neoclassical. Built for Louis XV's mistress, Madame de Pompadour (who died before it was finished), it became the ultimate gift to Marie Antoinette from her husband, Louis XVI.
He gave her the key in 1774 with the words, "This pleasure house is yours." It was her escape from the goldfish bowl of Versailles.
"There is nothing that costs more than a whim." – Marie Antoinette. She would know. Her whims built the Hamlet next door.
"The Petit Trianon is Marie Antoinette's most eloquent statement: a declaration of independence from the suffocating etiquette of Versailles, and a testament to her taste for simplicity and intimacy." – Antonia Fraser
The Queen's Hamlet: Let Them Eat Cake (While Milking Cows)
The pièce de résistance of Marie Antoinette's retreat is the Queen's Hamlet (Hameau de la Reine). This is not a historical village. It's a theatrical set, a rustic fantasy built between 1783 and 1787.
It consists of twelve quaint, thatch-roofed buildings around a pond: a mill, a dairy, a barn, a dovecote, and the famous "Queen's House." It was designed by the queen's favorite architect, Richard Mique.
"The Hamlet is the most touching and the most absurd of all Marie Antoinette's creations: a pastoral idyll built while France starved, a dream of simplicity that cost a fortune." – Simon Schama
The Hamlet was a public relations disaster of epic proportions. While peasants starved, the pamphlets of Paris mocked the queen playing dairy maid. It became a potent symbol of the monarchy's detachment from reality. Today, it's a hauntingly beautiful monument to a profound and tragic misunderstanding.
The Definitive Exit: Back to Reality
All good, overwhelming things must end. We shuffled with the crowd toward the Definitive Exit (Sortie Définitive), through the Hall of the Kings. The name felt apt. This was it for Versailles.
"Leaving Versailles is like waking from a dream—a dream of infinite gold, infinite mirrors, and infinite ambition. One returns to the world both humbled and inspired." – Stefan Zweig
"I shall now be forced to do great things." – Louis XIV upon moving his court to Versailles. He certainly kept that promise.
"Versailles is the ultimate expression of a civilization's confidence—and its ultimate vulnerability. It was built to dazzle, and it dazzles still, even as it warns us of the perils of excess." – David McCullough
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The Doorway Back to Now |
The sign says it all: Sortie Définitive. No re-entry. Our marathon tour of the Palace of Versailles was over.
We caught the train back to Paris, brains buzzing. The next day we hit the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower, but that's another story (which you can find in our France travelogue). After that, a TGV Lyria fast train whisked us off to Zurich. But that, as they say, is a tale for another blog post.
Keep wandering!
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