Road to Heaven (Swarg ka Rasta): National Highway 754K, Rann of Kutch, Gujarat, India

Let's really unpack this smaller Indian epic: an India overland road trip of almost 11,000 km across 14 state crossings, via NH-27, NH-19, NE-4, NH-48, NE-1, NH-44, NH-16, NH-316A and a long tail of local roads that don't appear on any respectable map. Our Texas-born Toyota Tundra pickup, Shehzadi, and we — two slightly directionally challenged souls — consumed the entire peninsula in a rolling sequence of chai stops, mountain passes, and decisions we will describe as "deliberate" for the purposes of this blog. This pan-India overland journey followed our larger quad-continental North America – Africa – Europe – Asia Silk Road expedition, which is to say we were already well past the point of making sensible decisions.

The actual crossing from China through Nepal into India — Tatopani landslides, Shehzadi locked in a border shed, a foot crossing above the Bhote Koshi, a flight to Kolkata while the truck waited, the return to Raxaul, and the Maitri Bridge moment — is a separate post entirely: Nepal to India Overland: Tatopani Landslides, Raxaul Border, and the Road Home to Kolkata. This one picks up once Shehzadi was on Indian tarmac and the cow on Station Road, Raxaul had delivered her verdict: we were no longer in charge of the schedule.

An illustration of Shehzadi crossing the Hooghly into Kolkata carrying the mud, rain, paperwork, and general nonsense of a four-continent overland journey

China Overland Part 5 ended at Tatopani, after the long run from Saga through Lake Manasarovar, Mount Kailash, Nyalam, Zhangmu Port, and the wet descent through the Zhangmu gorge. China had been permits, altitude, guided roads, oxygen hotels, pilgrim kitchens, and controlled exits. Nepal began with the Sino-Nepal Friendship Bridge, a landslide report, three broken road sections, and a truck that suddenly needed a shed instead of a highway.

This post begins where that bill came due: Tatopani, Kodari, the Araniko Highway, a foot crossing through the Bhote Koshi gorge, a flight to Kolkata without Shehzadi, the return to rescue her, and the long road home through Raxaul, Bihar, Barhi, Shaktigarh, Bally Bridge, Salt Lake, and Saini Toyota.

সোনার কেল্লা: The Golden Fortress, Jaisalmer

After exploring the "Blue City" of Jodhpur, we reach Jaisalmer - the "Golden City" of Rajasthan which shimmers like a mirage amidst the vast expanse of the Thar Desert. Its yellow sandstone ramparts, kissed golden by the desert sun, rise majestically above the dunes, whispering tales of a glorious past. But Jaisalmer is more than just a postcard-perfect desert paradise; centuries of history, culture and captivating charm are woven into every street and stone.

Sunrise Camel Ride at Sam Dunes of Thar Desert

We head to the Thar Desert of Rajasthan after a memorable visit to Jodhpur, trading the Blue City's crowded lanes for two nights in a tent camp at the Sam Sand Dunes - camels, ATVs, folk dancers and a healthy dose of the ancient culture of Rajasthan included.

The epic living golden fortress-city of Jaisalmer waits just down the road from the dunes - a story big enough to get its own post.

Entrance of Mehrangarh Fort, Jodhpur (composite)

After checking out the Taj Mahal in dense smog, we drive off from Agra for a 600 km 12-hour drive to explore Jodhpur, Rajasthan which is often referred to as the "Sun City" or the "Blue City".

Monkeys at east gate of Taj Mahal

After spending christmas day exploring Kolkata, we take a Vistara flight to Delhi and hop into a minivan to drive the world-class 6-lane 165.5 KM long Yamuna Expressway toll road to Agra. We visit the Taj Mahal early next morning in the dense winter smog of southern Asia before continuing our journey to Jodhpur, Rajasthan.

Sign at Kumartuli, Kolkata roughly translates to "no nuisance in front of the goddess (Kali)"

We reach Kolkata on the morning of December 24 after almost two full days of travel that started with a drive from our home in Washington, DC to New York's JFK to catch Kuwait Airlines' Dreamliners to New Delhi via Kuwait City followed by a Vistara Airlines A320-neo connecting to Kolkata.

This visit lands right in the middle of Christmas week, which means a few quiet days catching up with family in Salt Lake before a single marathon day of sightseeing across the old city — from Mother House to the clay workshops of Kumartuli and the marble halls of Victoria Memorial. That sign above, by the way, is no small thing: most scholars trace the city's own name back to "Kalikshetra," the Sanskrit "Field of Kali," by way of the old village of Kalikata. The goddess in that warning sign may be the same one the entire city is named after.

The sun sets on Jim Corbett National Park

The Journey Begins: Kolkata to Delhi ✈️

We woke up early to catch our flight from Kolkata to Delhi, feeling a mix of excitement and anticipation. As the plane soared into the sky, we looked down at the sprawling city of Kolkata - a place full of vibrant history and the chaotic charm we love. Two hours later, we landed in Delhi, India’s bustling capital, filled with history, culture, and food that can make your mouth water just thinking about it.

Kolkata to Delhi flight

Travel Tip: If you're flying from Kolkata, grab some famous rosogollas at the airport! They make for a sweet send-off.