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Pont Séjourné viaduct, Fontpédrouse, Pyrénées-Orientales, France
Pont Séjourné viaduct, Fontpédrouse, Pyrénées-Orientales, France

We woke up in our pine-nestled campsite next to Spain's border with Andorra, after the long push north from Pulpí through Valencia, Barcelona and Lleida in the Pyrenees, to the sound of mountain silence, which is to say: the occasional bird call, a rustle of wind through pine needles, and Chetak squeaking every time Odyssean Journey rolled over in their rooftop tent. The air was crisp, almost alpine-sharp, and it smelled faintly of woodsmoke and damp moss. Shehzadi, our ever-stoic Toyota Tundra, had a light coat of dew. It was the kind of morning that feels borrowed from a postcard.

Coffee was brewed, stretches were stretched, and sleepy grins passed between our two overlanding couples. The Vagabond Couple and the Odyssean Journey were back on the road. Today's mission: leave Spain behind (temporarily), enter the fairytale micronation of Andorra, fuel up, caffeinate, and then keep pushing toward France. Because that's what you do on the Silk Road—follow the stories wherever they lead.

Andorra to Lyon — Post Summary

From our Pyrenees campground we crossed into Andorra for fuel and pastries, looped back through Spain into France, navigated French gas pumps as Americans, marveled at the Pont Séjourné viaduct on the Yellow Train line, and ended the day at a campsite near Lyon — three countries in a single afternoon.

What's Covered
🏔️ Crossing into Andorra: Two Heads of State, One Tiny Country — Sant Julià de Lòria, duty-free fuel, Andorran folklore
⛽ French Motorways and the Mystery of the Gas Pump — sans plomb, gazole, SP95/SP98, E10, three borders in a day
🚂 The Pont Séjourné: A Viaduct Worth the Detour — Fontpédrouse, Yellow Train, Aire de Latitude 45
🏕️ Camp Outside Lyon: Three Borders Down — Faramans campground, last night before Lyon
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Pyrenees foothills at La Farga de Moles, Lleida, Spain
Pyrenees foothills at La Farga de Moles, Lleida, Spain - Andorra Border

After crossing from Morocco to Algeciras and driving back through southern Spain, we paused at Mar de Pulpí before turning north again. The rest was brief. Shehzadi had apparently mistaken our driveway for a fuel stop.

In June 2025, we joined the Odyssean Journey and their Toyota Hilux, Chetak, for a run through Valencia, Tarragona, Barcelona, Reus, and Lleida. Mediterranean highways gave way to the C-13, the N-260, and the N-145 as we climbed toward La Farga de Moles at the Andorra border.

Mar de Pulpí to the Andorra Border Overland via Valencia, Barcelona, and Lleida — Post Summary

From Mar de Pulpí, we drove north with Chetak and the Odyssean Journey along Spain's Mediterranean corridor, stopping in Valencia, Tarragona, Barcelona, Reus, and Lleida. We then followed the C-13 into the Pyrenees, detoured beside Torrassa Reservoir, crossed east on the N-260, and reached a cabin near La Farga de Moles before entering Andorra.

What's Covered
🚚 Leaving Mar de Pulpí with Shehzadi and Chetak — two trucks turn north after the Morocco crossing
🏺 Valencia Cathedral, the Holy Chalice, and Silk — an ancient agate cup and a late-medieval trading hall
🏛️ Tarragona and Barcelona on the Mediterranean Corridor — Roman Tarraco, Sagrada Família, and tapas
⚔️ Reus and Lleida: Gaudí and the Templars — birthplace, command post, and several centuries of administrative confidence
🏔️ Lleida to Torrassa Reservoir on the C-13 — Tremp, the Noguera Pallaresa, and the road into the Pyrenees
🔥 Camping Near La Farga de Moles — a log cabin, a reluctant fire, and Roland's misplaced hammer
➡️ Next Stop: Andorra and France — three borders, the eastern Pyrenees, and a campground near Lyon
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Ksar es-Seghir, Morocco
Ksar es-Seghir

Fresh off the blue-drenched high of Chefchaouen, the Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi found ourselves chasing a different rhythm. Gone were the dreamlike alleyways and chilled-out cats of the mountain town. The road (here's a map) pulled us westward, toward the sea, into lands that had seen too much and still stood proud: Tetouan, elegant and stubborn and Ksar es-Seghir, tiny but heavy with centuries.

Tetouan, Ksar es-Seghir & the Ferry — Post Summary

Leaving Chefchaouen, we drove south through the Rif to Tetouan — Morocco's most Andalusian city — then along the coast to Ksar es-Seghir, a tiny port with an outsized Silk Road past. From there we looped back to Tanger Med for the ferry across the Strait of Gibraltar to Algeciras, before heading east along Spain's Costa del Sol on the AP-7 all the way home to Pulpi, Almería.

What's Covered
🏛️ Tetouan: The Refined Aunt of the Rif — white-walled medina, Andalusian heritage, Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de las Victorias, geology and earthquakes
⚓ Ksar es-Seghir: Where Empires Left Their Luggage — Phoenician port, Portuguese fortress, Silk Road trade, Alboran Fault System
⛴️ Ferry Tales & Asphalt Dreams — Tanger Med port, Jebel Musa, Pillars of Hercules, Rock of Gibraltar, AP-7 Costa del Sol drive to Pulpi
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Rock of Gibraltar seen from the Spain to Morocco ferry route
The Rock of Gibraltar rising above the strait between Spain and Morocco

This Spain to Morocco overland leg carried us from Mar de Pulpí in Almería to Tangier, with Shehzadi, our Toyota Tundra, doing the usual diplomatic work of making border officials stare at Georgian plates as if we had arrived from a cartographic prank.

The map, because we enjoy making geography look mildly accused, is here: MAP. It followed directly from our Greece to Spain via Italy ferry crossing. This time the route ran across southern Spain, down to Algeciras, over the Strait of Gibraltar, into Tanger Med, and finally to Tangier. Three continents had now become a practical driving problem.

Spain to Morocco — Post Summary

This overland episode covers the drive from Mar de Pulpí across southern Spain to Algeciras, the vehicle ferry over the Strait of Gibraltar, the arrival formalities at Tanger Med, and our first night in Tangier. It is the moment our Asia-Europe road line crossed into Africa, which sounds poetic until customs wants to know why a Georgia-plated American pickup is standing in Morocco looking pleased with itself.

What's Covered
Route Mar de Pulpí, AP-7, Algeciras, Strait of Gibraltar, Tanger Med, Tangier
Countries Spain and Morocco
Borders Spain to Morocco by vehicle ferry through Tanger Med
Main Theme The overland line from Asia and Europe reaches Africa
Vehicle Shehzadi, our Toyota Tundra with Georgian plates
ETR 7 min
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Igoumenitsa Ferry Terminal in Greece before the overland ferry route to Italy and Spain
Igoumenitsa Ferry Terminal, Greece, where Shehzadi waited for the overnight ferry to Italy

After our Skopje loop, we pointed Shehzadi back into Greece and toward Igoumenitsa, because the Silk Road had apparently decided it needed a maritime intermission. This leg carried us from Greece to Spain by way of two ferries, one cross-Italy drive, and several vehicle decks designed by people who clearly enjoy suspense.

We had just come from Skopje and North Macedonia, and the road now turned west again: Igoumenitsa to Ancona by ferry, Ancona to Civitavecchia by road, Civitavecchia to Barcelona by ferry, then south through Spain to Mar de Pulpí in Almería (MAP). Three countries. Two ferries. One American pickup. Europe, bless it, had become a very large board game with fuel receipts.

Greece to Spain via Italy Ferries — Post Summary

This leg follows our westbound overland route from Igoumenitsa in Greece to Mar de Pulpí in southeastern Spain. We crossed the Ionian and Adriatic side by ferry to Ancona, drove across Italy to Civitavecchia, boarded a second ferry for Barcelona, then continued south into Almería. It was less a scenic detour than a logistics ballet, with Shehzadi playing the role of the large pickup nobody expected.

What's Covered Igoumenitsa ferry terminal, Minoan Lines ferry to Ancona, Ancona arrival, Italy road crossing, Civitavecchia ferry port, Grimaldi Lines ferry to Barcelona, Barcelona arrival, and the final drive to Mar de Pulpí
Route Igoumenitsa → Ancona → Civitavecchia → Barcelona → Mar de Pulpí, Almería
Countries Greece, Italy, Spain
Transport Mix Two ferries plus one overland crossing of Italy
Vehicle Shehzadi, our Toyota Tundra
Best For Overlanders planning a Greece-to-Spain route without driving the full Balkan and western Europe arc
ETR 7 minutes
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Passive Multiplexer in European Apartment
Passive Multiplexer in European Apartment

Inside the "telecommunications cabinet" of our new Spanish apartment at Mar de Pulpi, we found a wifi router that is also a ONT for fiber-optic internet service, and this "Multiplexador pasivo" 1 in 8 out RJ45 UTP Cat 6 thing with 8 ethernet cables connected to its outputs and nothing connected to its input.

Optical Fiber ONT and WiFi Router in European Apartment
Optical Fiber ONT and WiFi Router in European Apartment

All rooms in the apartment have at least one RJ45 wall socket (the place for the TV has two). We had our own gaming wifi router that we wanted to daisy-chain to the main router. So we connected one of the RJ45 outputs of the ONT/Wifi router (Uplink GP542Z GPON / EPON ONT terminal 4x GE 1x USB SC/APC WiFi AC1200) to the input of the "passive multiplexer" and the gaming router to a wall RJ45 plug. As expected, it did not work. We were wondering how in the world would a "passive multiplexer" route data packets.

It turns out this "passive multiplexer" is a telephone device and is used for connecting landline telephones all over the apartment, using RJ45 to RJ11 cables. Indeed there was a RJ45-RJ11 cable lying around inside the telecommunications cabinet as well.

However, the ethernet cables that run from the passive multiplexer to all over the apartment are indeed CAT6 network cables. Therefore, all it takes to distribute the computer network to the RJ45 wall sockets is a network switch. We unplugged the network cables from the passive multiplexer and plugged them into a 8-port network switch along with a network cable connected from one of the ports on the switch to the existing ONT/WiFi router. We were then able to daisy-chain a second WiFi router from another RJ45 wall socket as well as have copper ethernet connections to laptops and other devices from other RJ45 wall sockets.

We found the relevant manuals online for the Passive Multiplexer and ONT/Wifi Router.

Who uses landline telephones in multiple rooms in 2024?


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Mar de Pulpi, San Juan de Los Terreros, Spain
Mar de Pulpi

When we decided to make the move to Mar de Pulpí in San Juan de los Terreros, we were not just looking for a new apartment; we were searching for a lifestyle. Nestled along the sun-drenched Costa de Almería in southern Spain, Mar de Pulpí offers a harmonious blend of tranquility, natural beauty, and vibrant community living. Here’s a glimpse into what it’s like to call this gem of a place home.

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