Cave Hotel in Nar, Nevşehir Merkez, Nevşehir, Cappadocia, Türkiye – Staying Inside Cappadocia’s Rock-Cut Landscape

We woke inside a rock.

After the long run down from Ankara, we had checked into Ennar Cave House in Nevşehir and gone to sleep inside the rock. Morning made the change of landscape impossible to ignore. This chapter continues directly from Turkey Silk Road Overland Part 1, where the road carried us across Thrace, Istanbul, Bursa, the Phrygian Valley, and Ankara before setting us down in Cappadocia for the next phase.

Standing in timeless silence at Gerdekkaya Anıtı, Çukurca / Seyitgazi, Eskişehir. This remarkable Phrygian rock-cut tomb, carved into the mountain centuries ago, tells a story of ancient civilizations in the heart of Turkey.

This chapter of our Silk Road journey, overlanding Turkey (map), continues directly from Sofia, Bulgaria to Turkey – Silk Road Overland, that subtle continental moment where Europe slowly loosens its grip and Anatolia leans in, folds its arms and says, "Fine. Now let's talk Istanbul, Bursa, Koza Han and the greater Anatolia properly."

Türkiye was not new to us. We had visited Istanbul and Pamukkale-Hierapolis by airplane earlier, as well as crossed the Bosporus westwards overland, tracing the Black Sea coast from Georgia and slipping into Greece, a route we documented in Overlanding Asia to Europe – Georgia to Greece. That earlier crossing left us with one of the most durable souvenirs we have ever acquired on the road: a Turkish HGS toll tag, purchased from a PTT (pronounced paa-taa-taa) office in Arhavi, still clinging loyally to Shehzadi's windscreen like a Ottoman visa that refuses to acknowledge time.

This time, however, the intent was different. We were not passing through Turkey as a logistical necessity. We were returning to it deliberately, retracing routes that humanity itself has rehearsed for thousands of years. Anatolia does not appreciate haste. It has waited out empires far more confident than us. The landscape here feels like it's judging your timeline against its own geological clock, where millennia are measured in volcanic eruptions and civilizations are just temporary tenants.

Türkiye is not a country that exists merely as a destination. It exists as a process. Roads here are not shortcuts; they are habits, worn into the land by repetition so persistent that geography itself gave up resisting. Long before borders, passports and laminated vehicle documents, people crossed Anatolia because there was no other sensible option. If you wanted to move between Europe, the Caucasus, the Middle East and Central Asia, this land quietly stood in your way and said, "Through here."

This is the first of two long chapters covering our Turkey overland segment of our quad-continental journey. Like the Silk Road, it unfolds slowly, layering meaning rather than racing for conclusions. Think of it as a conversation with the landscape rather than a checklist of sites - a dialogue conducted in kilometers, tea breaks and the occasional wrong turn that reveals something more interesting than the planned route.

Niki Greek Border Station, Greece

We had just finished the Turkmenistan chapter of our Silk Road run, ending at Dayahatyn Caravanserai and the Amu Darya, which is a nice place to feel ancient until the vehicle reminds you it still needs fuel. From Tbilisi, the road now turned west. Europe was no longer an abstract idea on a map. It was a series of border booths waiting to examine our paperwork with the quiet suspicion usually reserved for magic tricks.

This Georgia-to-North-Macedonia leg took us from our home base in Tbilisi toward Batumi, across the Sarpi/Sarp border into Türkiye, along the Black Sea coast, across Istanbul’s Bosphorus, and through northern Greece toward the next chapter. The full route map is here: MAP. It also continues the larger Silk Road expedition into Turkmenistan arc, because apparently one continent was not enough paperwork for us.

View of Fatih, Istanbul from the Bosphorus

Istanbul, a city straddling two continents, effortlessly blends the ancient and the modern, offering a mesmerizing tapestry of history, culture and diversity. From the majestic domes and minarets that adorn its skyline to the bustling markets teeming with vibrant colors and scents, every corner of Istanbul whispers stories of its rich past. The city's iconic landmarks (MAP), such as the majestic Hagia Sophia and the enchanting Blue Mosque, stand as testaments to its illustrious heritage, while its vibrant neighborhoods pulsate with the energy of a metropolis that never sleeps. Along the Bosporus, the city's lifeline, ferryboats glide past palaces and waterfront mansions, offering a glimpse into Istanbul's timeless allure. With its captivating blend of East and West, Istanbul beckons travelers to immerse themselves in its captivating charm and unravel the mysteries of its storied past.

Travertines of Pamukkale (Pamukkale Travertenleri)

Today, we’re taking you on a memorable day trip that you can easily do from Istanbul. If you love exploring ancient ruins, soaking in natural hot springs and witnessing breathtaking landscapes, then this journey from Istanbul to Pamukkale, Hierapolis and Karahayıt is for you. Let’s dive in!

Early Morning Flight from Istanbul to Denizli

Driving at dawn from Fatih, Istanbul to İstanbul Havalimanı Airport

We started our adventure bright and early with a short domestic flight from Istanbul to Denizli. The flight took just over an hour.

İstanbul Havalimanı Airport Access Road

It’s a quick and comfortable ride and if you book in advance, tickets can be very affordable. Denizli Çardak Airport is a smaller airport serving the city of Denizli in Turkey.

Denizli Çardak Airport

Denizli Airport offers domestic flights to major cities like Istanbul and international flights to limited destinations. The airport is a convenient starting point for exploring the nearby historical and natural wonders of Hierapolis, Pamukkale and Karahayit.

Denizli Çardak Airport Parking Lot

Once we landed at Denizli Çardak Airport, we rented a car for a day right at the airport from the little Europcar store inside. We were given a Renault Captur which turned out to be a stylish and practical subcompact crossover SUV popular in Europe. This was our first experience with a Renault vehicle!

Renault Captur

The Captur offers a comfortable interior, good fuel economy and a range of features like touchscreen infotainment and advanced driver assistance systems.

Renault Captur

The compact size and maneuverability of the Captur make it a popular choice for city driving, while its raised ride height and SUV styling offer a more commanding driving position.

Renault Captur

Due to its popularity and versatility, the Renault Captur is widely available for rent from various car rental companies across Europe. Renting a car right at Denizli airport gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. The roads are well-maintained and it’s about an hour’s drive to our first stop, Hierapolis.

Tip: Book your car rental in advance. It saves time and you get better rates. Don’t forget to bring your driver’s license!

Exploring the Ancient City of Hierapolis

Hierapolis

Our first destination was the ancient city of Hierapolis, located on the hill above Pamukkale. Hierapolis was founded in the 2nd century BC as a spa city by the Phrygians and later developed by the Romans. It became famous for its hot springs and was believed to be a place of healing.

Hierapolis

We wandered through the ruins, marveling at the ancient theater, the necropolis (city of the dead) and the well-preserved Roman baths. The grand theater, with its tiered seating, offers stunning views of the valley below. You can almost imagine the ancient crowds cheering during performances.

Hierapolis

Many women choose to pose for photos at Hierapolis because the ancient ruins and stunning natural backdrop create a picturesque setting. These iconic locations, like the marble columns and travertine pools, offer a unique and visually appealing environment that can enhance the aesthetic quality of photographs.

History Fact: Hierapolis was named after Hiera, the wife of the legendary King Telephus of Pergamon. It was a wealthy city known for its textile industry, especially wool.

Hierapolis

As we walked, we felt like we were stepping back in time. The ruins tell stories of ancient lives, traditions and beliefs. We could see the old Roman roads and temples dedicated to various gods.

Tip: Wear comfortable shoes. The ground is uneven and there’s a lot to explore!

The Magical Pamukkale White Travertines

Pamukkale

Just below the ruins of Hierapolis are the famous Pamukkale travertines. Pamukkale means "Cotton Castle" in Turkish and it’s easy to see why.

Pamukkale

The white, terraced pools of natural hot spring water look like a castle made of fluffy cotton. The natural pools are filled with natural thermal water that cascades down the hillside, leaving behind a white, calcium-rich deposit.

Pamukkale

The sight is incredible. We took off our shoes (it’s required to protect the formations) and walked on the terraces, feeling the warm, mineral-rich water between our toes. It was like a natural foot massage!

Pamukkale

The water temperature varies but is usually warm, even in winter. We relaxed and took in the panoramic views of the valley below.

Pamukkale

Geology Fact: The travertines are formed by calcium carbonate deposits from the natural geothermal hot springs. Over time, the calcium hardens and creates the white, snow-like terraces.

Pamukkale

The hot spring water at Pamukkale is heated by the Earth's natural heat. This hot water rises from deep underground and carries minerals like calcium carbonate. When the water reaches the surface and cools, the minerals solidify and create the beautiful white travertine terraces. This process has been happening for thousands of years, shaping the unique landscape of Pamukkale.

Pamukkale

Pamukkale is also believed to have healing properties. The mineral-rich waters are said to be medicinal and good for the skin, digestion and overall wellness. We definitely felt refreshed after soaking our feet!

Tip: Visit early in the day or late afternoon to avoid the crowds and the harsh midday sun. Bring a hat and sunscreen for protection.

Discovering Karahayıt Kırmızı Su: The Red Hot Springs

Karahayit

A short drive from Pamukkale is Karahayit, a small village famous for its unique red hot springs, known as Kırmızı Su (Red Water). The red color comes from the high iron content in the water, which stains the travertines a rusty red hue.

Karahayıt

The contrast between the white pools of Pamukkale and the red pools of Karahayıt is stunning.

Karahayit

We dipped our hands into the warm, reddish water. The temperature here is higher than Pamukkale and many locals believe it has even stronger healing properties. The village is quieter and less touristy than Pamukkale, making it a peaceful spot to relax.

Karahayıt

The water feels soft and silky against your skin as you walk along the terraced pools. In Karahayıt you can soak in the warm, red-colored pools. The water here is infused with iron, giving it a rusty hue. Standing in these pools, you'll feel the warmth of the water and the soothing properties of the minerals.

Karahayıt

Cultural Insight: Karahayıt is a favorite among locals who come here to bathe in the springs for their health benefits. You’ll find small guesthouses and local shops selling souvenirs and natural skincare products made from the mineral-rich water.

Karahayit

Tip: If you have time, book a traditional Turkish bath (hamam) experience in Karahayıt. It’s a great way to unwind and enjoy the local culture.

Karahayıt

Summarizing, Pamukkale's white travertines are formed from calcium carbonate-rich water, creating a stunning white landscape. These terraces have been admired for centuries and are often associated with Cleopatra's beauty rituals. In contrast, Karahayıt's rust-red travertines are formed from iron-rich water, giving them a unique reddish hue. While less known historically, these pools are believed to have healing properties and are popular among locals and tourists alike. Both sites offer unique geological wonders and invite visitors to experience the therapeutic benefits of their mineral-rich waters.

Lunch with a View

Restaurant with view of Pamukkale

After exploring, we were hungry! We found a small family-run restaurant near the Pamukkale entrance offering a breathtaking panoramic view from a second-floor balcony. We can see a vast expanse of snow-white travertine terraces cascading down a hillside. Tiny figures of people, like ants, wander along the terraces, creating a mesmerizing contrast against the pristine white backdrop. The sunlight dances on the water, casting a shimmering glow on the scene. It's a truly magical sight that will leave you speechless.

View of Pamukkale from balcony of restaurant

The menu featured traditional Turkish dishes like korma, kebabs, gözleme (Turkish pancakes) and çay (tea). The food was delicious and the view of the travertines made it even better. We highly recommend trying the local honey and yogurt, known for their rich taste.

Korma

Tip: Bring cash as many small restaurants and shops do not accept credit cards.

Heading Back to Denizli Airport

Pamukkale to Denizli Airport Highway

As the sun began to set, we made our way back to Denizli Çardak Airport. The drive was peaceful and we had time to reflect on the incredible sites we visited. It was amazing to experience so much history, culture and natural beauty in just one day. We returned the rental car and took our evening flight back to Istanbul, tired but filled with unforgettable memories.

Boarding Denizli to Istanbul flight

Final Tips for Your Trip:

Pamukkale Tourism Promotion Board at Denizli Airport

• Plan Ahead: Check flight and car rental availability. Book Hierapolis and Pamukkale tickets online to save time.
• Bring Water Shoes: The travertines can be slippery and the stones can be sharp.
• Respect the Rules: Help preserve these natural and historical sites by following guidelines, like removing your shoes at the travertines.

In conclusion, our day trip from Istanbul to Pamukkale was a fantastic mix of history, nature and relaxation. It’s a perfect escape from the city if you’re looking for a unique and memorable experience. We hope this guide helps you plan your own adventure!

Happy exploring,

The Vagabond Couple 👫💛

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and  Gemini.