Train Station at Ashgabat Olympic Stadium, Olympic Complex

Built to shuttle athletes and visitors across the sprawling complex during the 2017 Asian Games, this 3.5-kilometer automated light rail loops past marble-clad stadiums and fountains with the quiet efficiency.

Elevated Train Line at Ashgabat Olympic Stadium, Olympic Village

The trains themselves are climate-controlled capsules of perfection, gliding past Akhal-Teke horse murals and LED-lit arches. Despite its tiny scale and limited public use today, the system remains impeccably maintained.

Elevated Olympic Village Rail Tracks cross Ataturk St in Ashgabat

Fun detail: The stations have more chandeliers than some European palaces.

Olympic Aquatics Center / Olympic Swimming Pool

The Ashgabat Olympic Aquatic Center is another shimmering temple to Turkmenistan’s love of grandiose infrastructure, where competitive swimming meets marble-clad extravagance. This ultra-modern facility, built for the 2017 Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games, features a 50-meter Olympic pool so pristine it looks like liquid glass, flanked by secondary pools and diving platforms that gleam under cascading LED lights.

Ashgabat Olympic Aquatic Center, Olympic Village

The building’s sleek, aerodynamic design - with a wave-like roof symbolizing water in motion - is a stark contrast to the surrounding desert, while its interior is a study in spotless minimalism: white tiles, chrome fixtures and not a single droplet out of place. Though it now hosts the occasional national swim meet, the center’s true purpose seems to be photogenic symbolism, with its glass walls reflecting the Olympic Village’s gigantic Akhal-Teke horse statue. The locker rooms alone are fancier than most five-star hotels!

Fun fact: The pool’s filtration system is reportedly so advanced it could make Karakum Desert sand swim-ready - not that anyone’s tested that theory.

Olympics Tennis Center

The Olympic Tennis Center in Ashgabat’s Olympic Village is yet another gleaming, marble-clad sports palace where tennis meets Turkmen opulence. Built for the 2017 Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games, this ultra-modern complex features 14 professional courts (including a 5,000-seat center court) with surfaces so flawless they look vacuumed between points.

Ashgabat Olympic Tennis Center, Olympic Village

The futuristic design blends sweeping white arches and glass walls that reflect the surrounding Olympic Village, while the interior boasts VIP lounges with more gold trim than a Dubai penthouse. Nearby, the Olympic Village resembles a utopian campus, with color-coded apartment towers, each hue representing a continent, and manicured gardens so pristine they defy the surrounding desert. Though now mostly used for state-sponsored events, the complex remains a immaculately maintained monument.

Bonus trivia: The center’s retractable roof is solar-powered.

State Committee of Turkmenistan for Physical Culture and Sports

The State Committee of Turkmenistan for Physical Culture and Sports building is located inside Ashgabat's Olympic Complex near the Ashgabat Olympic Stadium and other elite sports facilities. The building is part of Ashgabat’s signature white-marble architectural style, with modern designs symbolizing national prestige in sports.

State Committee of Turkmenistan for Physical Culture and Sports, Ashgabat

The surrounding area includes training centers, athlete residences and the Winter Sports Complex.

Ashgabat Velodrome

The Ashgabat Velodrome (Welotrek Sport Toplumy) - arena for cycling featuring steeply banked oval tracks - is a striking example of modern sports architecture blending cutting-edge engineering with Turkmenistan’s signature aesthetic of grandeur and precision. Designed by Polimeks, a Turkish construction firm renowned for mega-projects in Ashgabat, the velodrome’s sweeping, elliptical form evokes the dynamism of cycling, with a gleaming white-marble façade and blue-tinted glass panels reflecting the national flag’s colors. The roof, a cable-net structure spanning 152 meters without internal supports, ensures unobstructed views and optimal natural light.

Ashgabat Velodrome bicycle track

Inside, the 250-meter track is crafted from sustainably sourced Siberian pine, precision-cut to meet UCI standards for elite competition. The construction (2014–2016) employed seismic-resistant techniques, critical for Ashgabat’s earthquake-prone zone, while the HVAC system maintains perfect humidity for both athletes and spectators. Clad in 5,000+ marble panels and illuminated by LED arrays, the velodrome cost an estimated $100 million, embodying Turkmenistan’s ambition to fuse sport, technology and national identity.

Martial Arts Sports Building

The "BASA-BAS SÖWES SUNGATY SPORT BINASY", literally translating to "Head-to-Head Martial Arts Sports Building", is a state-of-the-art facility dedicated to combat sports like judo, wrestling and boxing. Built as part of the city’s Olympic Complex for the 2017 Asian Indoor and Martial Arts Games (AIMAG), it’s a sleek, modern venue with a capacity for thousands of spectators. 

Martial arts sports building, Olympic Village, Ashgabat

The design mixes Turkmenistan’s signature white-marble grandeur with high-tech features - think climate-controlled arenas, VIP lounges and advanced training zones. This place isn’t just for pros - it’s a hub for local athletes too, hosting national tournaments and training camps. Picture a world-class fight venue with Ashgabat’s trademark over-the-top style: gleaming floors, perfect lighting and maybe even a few gold accents. Whether you’re there to compete or watch, it’s the spot for martial arts in Turkmenistan.

Olympic Hotel

Olympic Hotel (Olimpiya myhmanhanasy) is the official hotel inside Ashgabat’s Olympic Complex, built for the 2017 AIMAG. It is located right in the Olympic Village, next to major venues like the velodrome, stadium and martial arts arena.

Ashgabat Olympic Hotel

The design is classic Ashgabat style - shiny white marble with modern luxe vibes. It is pretty fancy (think 4 - 5 stars), with VIP lounges and event spaces. Who Stays Here? Athletes, officials and visitors during big sports events. It’s not just a hotel - it’s part of Turkmenistan’s mega-sports hub, showing off the country’s love for elite athletics. If you’re in town for a competition, this is the place to stay.

Fun fact: The village’s housing towers are color-coded by continent.

Ministry of Defense

The Ministry of Defense building on Garashsyzlyk Avenue in Ashgabat is a formidable symbol of the nation’s military authority and architectural grandeur. Designed in Turkmenistan’s signature neo-monumentalist style, the structure features a towering white-marble façade, symmetrical columns and gold-accented domes, blending modern austerity with traditional motifs.

Ministry of Defense, Ashgabat

Located in the heart of the capital’s government district, it stands near other key institutions like the State Border Service Academy, reinforcing Ashgabat’s centralized security infrastructure. The building’s imposing presence reflects Turkmenistan’s emphasis on neutrality and self-reliance, with its heavily guarded perimeter underscoring its role as the command hub for the armed forces.

Inside, the complex houses strategic planning centers, ceremonial halls and advanced communication facilities, all aligned with the country’s doctrine of "permanent neutrality." Its location on Garashsyzlyk ("Independence") Avenue further highlights its ideological significance - a physical manifestation of national sovereignty in Turkmenistan’s marble-clad capital.

Independence Monument

Independence Monument, Ashgabat

The Independence Monument in Ashgabat is a dazzling architectural ode to Turkmen identity, blending modern grandeur with traditional symbolism in classic Turkmen over-the-top style. Rising 118 meters tall, the monument's base mimics the circular form of a white yurt - a nod to the nation's nomadic roots - while its golden spire flares outward like the elegant national headdress (kurtke) worn by women.

Huge statues of powerful Turkmen surround Independence Monument, Ashgabat

Between these cultural bookends, five towering arches represent the country's main tribes, each adorned with intricate patterns from Turkmen carpets. The whole structure is crowned with a gilded crescent moon bearing five stars, shining so brightly it's visible across the city.

Magtymguly Pyragy

Magtymguly Pyragy, Turkmenistan's revered 18th-century poet, philosopher and spiritual father, is the Shakespeare of the steppes – if Shakespeare had written odes to desert winds and the nomadic soul. You'll find his brooding, bearded visage everywhere in Turkmenistan – on monuments, banknotes and even looming over Ashgabat's central park, where his 60-meter golden statue holds a book (presumably containing his most profound couplets).

Magtymguly Pyragy statue at Independence Monument / Ashgabat Central Park

His poetry, infused with Sufi mysticism and love for the Turkmen people, became the bedrock of national identity during centuries of foreign rule. His verses celebrated unity, morality and Turkmen cultural values with such lyrical power that the Soviets couldn't suppress them and today every school child memorizes his works. The poet's mausoleum in Iran has become a pilgrimage site, proving that even death couldn't stop his words from crossing borders – much like the caravans he once wrote about in his timeless verses.

Saparmurat Niyazov Aniti

This smaller but impressive golden Niyazov statue presides over the fountain in front of the Independence Monument. Turkmenistan’s founding father strikes his classic pose. This glimmering, life-sized sculpture shows Niyazov mid-gesture, as if frozen while delivering one of his famous Ruhnama talks.

Former President Saparmurat Niyazov's Statue in front of Independence Monument

The fountain’s cascades frame him blending Turkmenistan’s twin obsessions: hydroengineering and personality cults. By day, the statue gleams under the desert sun; by night, it becomes the centerpiece of a light-and-water show set to patriotic tunes. It’s a fitting tribute: grandiose and slightly surreal.

At night, when the monument's 27 (!) fountains begin their choreographed water ballet synchronized with patriotic music, you'll realize this isn't just a memorial - it's Turkmenistan's national identity turned into a Vegas-worthy spectacular. The surrounding park features statues of historical figures striking heroic poses.

Ruhnama Monument

This giant book-shaped tribute is dedicated to the Ruhnama, Turkmenbashi's magnum opus (or as some might call it, his "Book of the Soul"). Picture this: back in the early 2000s, Turkmenistan’s first president, Saparmurat Niyazov (aka Turkmenbashi), decided the nation needed a new holy book written by him. So he authored the Ruhnama, a mix of history, morals and powerful imagination.

Ruhnama Monument at Independence Park

Schools taught it, drivers had to study it and mosques were told to treat it like the Quran (which, shocker, didn’t sit well with everyone). The monument itself is basically a massive stone book that symbolizes wisdom.

Ruhnama Monument at Independence Park

After Niyazov died in 2006, his successor quietly tried to sweep the whole Ruhnama craze under the rug. But guess what? The monument is still there, like a leftover meme from the early internet that nobody bothered to delete. The dome and spire of the "Altin Asir Alisveris Merkezi" shopping center at the adjacent Central Park can be seen from here too.

Altin Asir Alisveris Merkezi (Shopping Center) at Central Park seen from Ruhnama Monument

These days, you won’t get in trouble for not reciting the Ruhnama at breakfast, but it’s still a slice of Turkmen history - kind of like finding your old diary and cringing at your teenage self.

Ruhnama Monument Entrance

So if you’re in Ashgabat, snap a pic with it!

Neutrality Arch (Monument of Neutrality)

The Neutrality Arch (or Bitaraplyk Arkasy) in Ashgabat is a 95-meter-tall monument designed as a tripod crowned with a 12-meter gold-plated statue of former president Saparmurat Niyazov which rotated to always face the sun. This architectural marvel was built in 1998 to celebrate the country’s official neutrality - a status Turkmenistan clings to like a geopolitical security blanket. Unfortunately the monument was under repair with scaffolding around it when we visited and we could not get a closer look.

Neutrality Arch, Ashgabat

While its gleaming marble and futuristic spire scream "global significance," the monument was relocated in 2010. Culturally, it’s a shrine to the cult of personality, yet socially, it mirrors Turkmenistan’s economic reality.

Previously rotating always-sun-facing gold-plated statue of former president Saparmurat Niyazov at top of Neutrality Arch

The Arch doesn’t just symbolize neutrality; it embodies the state’s obsession with crafting an image of prosperity, even as it remains hermetically sealed from the world it claims to engage.

Ylym (Science) Monument

The "Ylym" (Science) Monument in Ashgabat is a dazzling, futuristic ode to Turkmenistan’s aspirations for progress - assuming progress involves a 50-meter-tall, gold-clad atom model perched atop a marble arch like a disco ball at a physics convention. Unveiled in 2020, this surreal structure features a central sphere encircled by electron rings, all shimmering with gilded grandeur against Ashgabat’s white-marble skyline. Flanked by statues of bronze scholars (some holding books, others gazing heroically into the distance), the monument’s staircase leads to… well, mostly just more marble.

Ylym (Science) Monument, Academy of Sciences

By night, Ylym is bathed in rainbow LEDs, turning nuclear theory into a light show - because nothing says "scientific advancement" like a monument that doubles as a nightclub beacon. Located near the Academy of Sciences, it’s either an inspiring tribute to knowledge or proof that even atoms get the Turkmen Baroque treatment.

Bonus trivia: The sphere’s diameter is 21 meters - one meter for each year of the "Golden Age" under President Berdimuhamedov’s rule.

Turkmen State Medical University

Turkmen State Medical University in Ashgabat is the main place where students train to become doctors. The university is housed in a big, fancy white marble building, like most things in Turkmenistan’s capital. Students study hard.

Turkmen State Medical University, Ashgabat

Ministry of Health and Medical Industry

Next to the Medical University is "The Ministry of Health and Medical Industry of Turkmenistan" building, and maybe a residential apartment building further up (?). Here too, LED lighting in the night changes the scene to sci-fi.

Ministry of Health and Medical Industry of Turkmenistan (center)

Ministry of Energy of Turkmenistan

The Ministry of Energy of Turkmenistan building, located across from the National Museum in Ashgabat, is one more striking example of the city’s grand, marble-clad architectural style. The structure features a sleek, symmetrical design with towering columns, a gilded facade and expansive glass windows, reflecting Turkmenistan’s modern ambitions in the energy sector.

Ministry of Energy of Turkmenistan, Ashgabat

Adorned with national motifs and illuminated at night, the building stands as a symbol of the country’s vast oil and gas wealth. Its imposing presence near the National Museum reinforces Ashgabat’s reputation for monumental government architecture, blending functionality with opulent, white-marble grandeur.

Maslahat Kösgi Palace

The Maslahat Kösgi Palace, also called Maslahat Kosgi or Mejlis Kosgi, in Ashgabat is a gleaming white marble powerhouse where Turkmenistan’s top political body, the Halk Maslahaty, meets. Designed to impress with its grand domes and gold accents, it’s a symbol of the country’s centralized authority under the Berdimuhamedow regime. It is located along Archabil Highway (also called Arçabil saýoly) which is a major thoroughfare lined with government buildings and modern landmarks.

Walking down this part of Ashgabat feels like moving through a carefully arranged set of power - every gleaming building houses another piece of the government machine. 

While you won’t get inside - government buildings here are strictly off-limits - the palace is a must-see from the outside, blending into Ashgabat’s "White Marble City" aesthetic.

Maslahat Kösgi Palace

Ministry of Agriculture

Turkmenistan's Ministry of Agriculture is headquartered adjacent to the Maslahat Kosgi along Archabil Highway. True to the city’s signature aesthetic, the ministry’s building likely features the white marble and grandiose architecture typical of Turkmen state institutions, blending functionality with the regime’s preference for imposing facades. As the agency overseeing Turkmenistan’s cotton and wheat monocultures, the ministry enforces state quotas, manages water resources (including the Garagum Canal) and promotes agricultural modernization. Its location on Archabil Highway - a zone packed with ministries and official complexes - highlights its importance to the state’s economy. While the building itself is not accessible to tourists, it’s a notable stop for those curious about Turkmenistan’s Soviet-era farming legacies and ongoing efforts in water management and efficiency.

Ministry of Finance and Economy

Turkmenistan's Ministry of Finance and Economy

The government building to the right of Maslahat Kösgi Palace is Turkmenistan's Ministry of Finance and Economy. Like its famous neighbor, it's built in that striking Ashgabat style - all white marble and grand columns, perfectly polished under the desert sun. This is where officials manage the country's money, from gas export profits to state budgets. Its prime location on Archabil Highway, surrounded by other important ministries, shows just how central it is to running the country. The finance ministry's job is especially important in Turkmenistan. While you can't go inside, its impressive facade tells you everything about how the country wants to be seen: wealthy, orderly and completely in control.

Ministry of Education of Turkmenistan

Ah - that eye-catching book-shaped building in Ashgabat! That's the headquarters of Türkmenistanyñ Bilim Ministirligi (Ministry of Education of Turkmenistan), one of the city's most photogenic and symbolic, government structures. Designed to look like a giant open book, the building's curved glass facade "pages" reflect the sky, while a monumental statue of Magtymguly Pyragy (Turkmenistan's revered 18th-century poet who we met in Independence Monument above) stands proudly in front.

Ministry of Education of Turkmenistan (Türkmenistanyñ Bilim Ministirligi)

It's a flashy metaphor for the government's emphasis on education , blending national pride with architectural spectacle. Located on Archabil Highway near the Oguzkhan Presidential Palace, it's part of Ashgabat's surreal "white marble district."

Fun fact: At night, the "book" lights up with colorful projections, sometimes displaying quotes from the president or Magtymguly's poetry.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Turkmenistan

The Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Turkmenistan (Türkmenistanyn Dasary Isler Ministirligi) building in Ashgabat is instantly recognizable thanks to the giant golden globe perched atop its structure, a shiny symbol of the country’s self-proclaimed "permanent neutrality".

Located on Archabil Highway in the heart of the capital’s government district, the building mirrors Ashgabat’s signature style: pristine white marble, towering columns and grandiose proportions. The globe, illuminated at night, represents Turkmenistan’s diplomatic ambitions.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Turkmenistan

Inside, the ministry handles the country’s foreign policy. Want to spot it? Look along Archabil Highway, where it stands among other impressive government buildings.

Trivia: The globe’s design reportedly cost millions, making it one of the world’s most expensive ministry rooftop decorations.

Prosperity Monument

The Abadancylyk Monumenti (Prosperity Monument) on 1937 Street (now officially called Görogly Street) is another towering golden structure, shaped like a traditional Turkmen octagonal star, symbolizing the country's prosperity, independence and geopolitical neutrality.

Prosperity Monument, Ashgabat

Towering with pristine white pillars and inlaid with golden accents, its centerpiece is a globe delicately cradled by white doves - symbols of peace, purity, the nation's globally recognized neutrality. The sculptural style is unmistakably Turkmen: bold, symmetrical and steeped in symbolism.

The Ministry of Motor Transport

The Türkmenistanyñ Awtomobil Ulaglary Ministrligi or Türkmenawtoulaglary Agentligi (Turkmen Automobile Transport Agency) building in Ashgabat is a sleek, modern structure that reflects Turkmenistan’s focus on infrastructure and state-controlled transport. Located along Archabil Highway, one of the city’s broad, manicured boulevards, it fits right into Ashgabat’s signature aesthetic - white marble, glass facades and polished grandeur.

The Ministry of Motor Transport

This agency oversees the country’s road networks, public transport and vehicle regulations, playing a key role in a nation where car ownership is highly regulated (and where gas is famously cheap). The building itself isn’t as flashy as Ashgabat’s golden-domed monuments, but its clean, bureaucratic design hints at the government’s tight grip on even mundane aspects of daily life.

By the way, the fantastic Turkmen Autobahn that we had a chance to experience later on our trip is a project by CJSC “Turkmen Awtoban”, the first largest Turkmen private consortium based on public-private partnership (PPP).

Fun quirk: If you look closely, you might spot the state-run white-and-green Turkmen taxi fleet nearby.

Ministry of Industry and Construction Production

The Ministry of Industry and Construction Production of Turkmenistan (Türkmenistanyn Senagat we gurlusyk önümçiligi ministrligi) is another imposing white marble Ashgabat-style building. Standing rigid and symmetrical along one of the capital's broad, empty boulevards, this ministry manages everything from textile factories to construction projects.

Ministry of Industry and Construction Production

Headquarters of State Customs Service of Turkmenistan 

The headquarters of the State Customs Service of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat is a massive white-marble fortress following Ashgabat's signature style - rows of towering columns, perfectly polished stone and an imposing facade. Border Policies are managed from here.

Headquarters of the State Customs Service of Turkmenistan

Mejlisler Markezi (Parliament) 

The Mejlisler Markezi (Conference Center of the Mejlis) building in Ashgabat complements the Maslahat Kosgi building on the eastern side of the "White Marble District" neighborhood of impressive government institutions along Archabil Highway. It is located across the Alem Entertainment Center's indoor Ferris Wheel.

The Mejlisler Markezi is where Turkmenistan's parliament holds its sessions.

Mejlisler Markezi (Turkmenistan Parliament Building)

The building features colossal columns, laser-cut geometric patterns and floors so polished you could ice-skate on them. Inside, the Mejlis (Turkmenistan’s legislature) convenes. The center also occasionally hosts international summits. For the full experience, come during one of Turkmenistan’s national holidays, when the fountain out front sprays water in sync with patriotic music.

Alem Center Ashgabat: World's Largest Indoor Ferris Wheel Ride

Alem Center, Ashgabat: World's Largest Indoor Ferris Wheel

Stepping into the Alem Entertainment Center in Ashgabat feels a bit like walking into a spaceship that decided to become a theme park. Towering over the city at 95 meters tall, this gleaming structure is home to one of the most unexpected gems of our overland journey: the world’s largest indoor Ferris wheel. Yes, indoor. As soon as we stepped inside the giant golden sphere crowning the building, it was clear this wasn’t just an amusement ride - it was a surreal experience suspended between architecture and ambition.

Alem Center, Ashgabat: World's Largest Indoor Ferris Wheel

From the entrance of the Alem Entertainment Center, the Mejlisler Markezi looms like a gleaming mirage of power - its golden dome and snow-white facade stark against Ashgabat’s manicured skyline across the street.

View of Mejlisler Markezi from entrance doors of Alem Entertainment Center

The contrast is surreal: behind you, the world’s tallest Ferris wheel spins with carnival lights; ahead, Turkmenistan’s parliamentary center sits with towering columns radiating grandeur.

View of Ashgabat from Alem Center Ferris Wheel

Riding the Ferris wheel was both oddly peaceful and slightly surreal. The glass pods slowly rotate inside the massive dome, offering panoramic views of Ashgabat’s impossibly clean marble skyline and the distant Kopet Dag mountains beyond. There’s something truly poetic about floating in air-conditioned silence inside a futuristic orb, watching a city that looks like it was dreamed into existence.

Alem Center Ferris Wheel of Ashgabat: The world's biggest indoor ferris wheel

For a moment, it felt like we were inside Turkmenistan’s vision of the future - calm, ordered, gleaming and just a little mysterious.

Museum of Fine Arts of Turkmenistan (Türkmenistanyn Sekillendiris sungaty muzeýi)

The Museum of Fine Arts (Türkmenistanyn Sekillendiris sungaty muzeýi) in Ashgabat is housed in an imposing white-marble building that perfectly embodies Turkmenistan's signature architectural style - a blend of monumental Soviet design and traditional Turkmen motifs.

Museum of Fine Arts of Turkmenistan

Visitors approaching the museum are greeted by an elegant facade featuring ornamental patterns inspired by Turkmen carpets and the iconic eight-pointed star. The spacious interior features high ceilings, polished floors and natural light streaming through large windows, creating an ideal setting for art appreciation.

Ashgabat: Panoramic View of the white marble city from Museum of Fine Arts of Turkmenistan

For visitors, the museum offers a well-organized journey through Turkmenistan's artistic legacy across three floors of exhibits. The ground floor showcases archaeological treasures from ancient Margiana and Parthia, including remarkable bronze age artifacts and Hellenistic-influenced pottery. The second floor presents the crown jewel of the collection - an extraordinary display of Turkmen textiles and carpets featuring intricate tribal patterns and vibrant natural dyes. Don't miss the rare 19th century Tekke carpets considered among the finest in Central Asia. The upper level focuses on modern and contemporary art, including striking portraits of Turkmen leaders and experimental works by today's artists. Helpful English descriptions accompany major exhibits, though hiring a guide (available at the entrance) provides deeper insight.

Ashgabat: Another panoramic view from Museum of Fine Arts of Turkmenistan

The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 9am to 6pm, with a small entrance fee and additional charges for photography permits (which we skipped). Allow at least two hours to properly appreciate the collections and visit in the morning when crowds are lightest.

A short walk from the museum, visitors can continue their cultural exploration at the nearby National Museum or enjoy a cup of fragrant Turkmen tea at one of the traditional çayhanas (chaikhanas - tea houses) in the area.

National Museum of Turkmenistan (Türkmenistanyn Döwlet medeniýet merkezinin Döwlet muzeýi)

The National Museum of Turkmenistan in Ashgabat is one of the country's most impressive cultural institutions, housed in a grand white-marble building that dominates the city's skyline. Designed to reflect Turkmenistan's modern national identity while honoring its rich heritage, the museum's vast collections span from ancient civilizations to contemporary history.

National Museum of Turkmenistan

Visitors are greeted by a soaring central hall before exploring exhibits that include priceless archaeological finds from the Parthian and Seljuk empires, exquisite examples of traditional Turkmen jewelry and textiles and an entire gallery dedicated to the country's famous hand-woven carpets, including one of the world's largest carpets measuring over 300 square meters! The museum also features extensive displays on Turkmenistan's natural history, independence era and presidential gifts, offering a comprehensive look at the nation's past and present.

Ashgabat Flagpole & city viewed from National Museum of Turkmenistan

A visit to the National Museum provides fascinating insight into Turkmen culture, though travelers should plan ahead for the best experience. The museum is open Tuesday through Sunday closed Mondays) from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with photography permits available for an additional fee (which we skipped). While some exhibits include English descriptions, hiring one of the knowledgeable English-speaking guides is recommended to fully appreciate the historical context. Visitors typically spend 2-3 hours exploring the museum's highlights, with the carpet and archaeological collections being absolute must-sees. Located near other major landmarks like the Monument of Neutrality, the museum makes for an excellent morning excursion before the Ashgabat heat peaks. Its climate-controlled galleries, clean facilities and striking architecture, illuminated beautifully at night, make it one of the capital's most rewarding cultural stops for history buffs and casual travelers alike.

Ashgabat Flagpole

The Ashgabat Flagpole stands tall right in front of the National Museum of Turkmenistan and it's hard to miss - this thing is one of the tallest flagpoles in the world! Picture a giant pole shooting up into the sky, holding a massive Turkmen flag that flutters over the city. The whole area is super clean and polished, with perfectly manicured lawns and white marble everywhere.

Ashgabat Flagpole

The flagpole was built to show off national pride and it definitely does the job. Standing there with the museum behind it, the whole scene looks like something out of a futuristic capital.

Carpet Museum of Ashgabat: World’s largest hand-woven carpet

The Carpet Museum of Ashgabat is a unique cultural institution dedicated to preserving and showcasing the nation’s rich carpet-weaving heritage. Housed in a distinctive building shaped like a giant rolled carpet, the museum features an extensive collection of antique and modern Turkmen carpets, including rare pieces with intricate tribal designs and symbolic motifs.

Among its prized exhibits is the world’s largest handwoven carpet, a Guinness World Record holder. The museum not only highlights the artistry and craftsmanship of Turkmen weavers but also serves as a testament to the deep cultural significance of carpets in Turkmen identity, where they have historically been used as decorations, dowries, and even symbols of national pride. We learned a lot about the evolution and actual symbols woven into the carpets - schools of fish to numerous icons of Turkmen socio-cultural symbolism right in the carpets if you know how to read them. We saw some amazing double-sided carpets as well!

Halk Hakydasy Memorial Park ("People’s Memory")

The Halk Hakydasy Memorial Park in Ashgabat is Turkmenistan's polished, gold-trimmed tribute to national suffering and pride.

Halk Hakydasy (‘People’s Memory’) Memorial Complex, Ashgabat

This sprawling complex honors three defining tragedies: the horrific 1948 earthquake that wiped out the city of Ashgabat, the Turkmen soldiers who died fighting for the Soviet Union in World War II and the brutal 1881 Battle of Geok Tepe where Tsarist Russia crushed local resistance.

Earthquake Memorial at Halk Hakydasy (‘People’s Memory’) Memorial Complex, Ashgabat

At the heart of the park stands a dramatic earthquake memorial featuring a massive bronze bull straining under the weight of a cracking globe - a powerful symbol of that horrific night when tens of thousands perished.

Memorial to fallen soldiers at Halk Hakydasy (‘People’s Memory’) Memorial Complex, Ashgabat

Nearby, an ode to fallen soldiers is accompanied by the writing "Eternal honor and eternal glory to the heroes of the homeland!"

Geok Tepe memorial at Halk Hakydasy (‘People’s Memory’) Memorial Complex, Ashgabat

The Geok Tepe memorial turns a military defeat into a nationalist rallying cry, its fortress walls hiding the uncomfortable truth of that historical loss. The Battle of Geok Tepe (1881) was a decisive Russian victory over the Turkmen, leading to the annexation of Turkmenistan into the Russian Empire.

View of Yildiz Hotel from Halk Hakydasy (‘People’s Memory’) Memorial Complex

But Ashgabat city is not all glitz. The 1948 earthquake practically wiped Ashgabat off the map, taking 110,000 lives. The city's rebirth is nothing short of miraculous - a phoenix in marble and gold. There are no buildings older than 1991 in resurrected Ashgabat.

Wedding Palace, Ashgabat: A Futuristic Symbol of Love

Rising like a luminous eight-pointed star over the white-marble cityscape, Ashgabat’s Wedding Palace (Saýlyk Kösgi) is one of the most architecturally striking buildings in Turkmenistan. Designed in the shape of a traditional Turkmen star, symbolizing happiness and unity, its sleek glass-and-steel structure glows at night with dynamic LED light displays that shift between soft pastels and vibrant colors, creating a mesmerizing effect.

Wedding Palace (Saýlyk Kösgi), Ashgabat

The building’s design blends modern minimalism with subtle Turkmen motifs - geometric patterns adorn its facade, while the central dome evokes a bridal veil, adding a poetic touch. Inside, newlyweds are greeted by grand halls with crystal chandeliers, golden accents and sweeping staircases, offering a lavish setting for civil ceremonies. The surrounding plaza features manicured gardens and fountains, often illuminated in sync with the palace’s light shows.

Wedding Palace (Saýlyk Kösgi), Ashgabat

As both a functional registry office and a tourist attraction, the Wedding Palace embodies Ashgabat’s penchant for marrying futuristic architecture with cultural symbolism. By day, its reflective glass mirrors the desert sky; by night, it becomes a radiant beacon, celebrating love in a city where even romance is draped in grandeur.

Gulistan Bazaar (Russian Bazaar), Ashgabat

Russian Bazaar (Gulistan Bazaar), Ashgabat

Gulistan Bazaar, affectionately called the "Russian Bazaar" is a lively and historic market in Ashgabat, known for its vibrant mix of Turkmen and Soviet-era influences. Stepping into the bazaar, visitors are greeted by a cacophony of voices haggling in Russian and Turkmen, the scent of fresh herbs, spices and baked bread mingling in the air and the colorful sprawl of goods under striped awnings.

Trying out traditional Turkmen attire at Russian Bazaar (Gulistan Bazaar), Ashgabat

Crates overflow with ripe pomegranates, melons and dried fruits, while butchers display cuts of meat alongside stalls selling Russian imports like pickled vegetables, smoked fish and jars of caviar. Vendors call out prices as shoppers weave through narrow aisles, past stacks of traditional Turkmen carpets, embroidered textiles and Soviet-era memorabilia.

Trying out traditional Turkmen attire at Russian Bazaar (Gulistan Bazaar), Ashgabat

The market earned its "Russian" moniker not only from the language spoken but also from the abundance of goods reminiscent of Soviet times - vodka, canned goods and household items once shipped across the USSR. The hum of commerce, the aroma of fresh produce and sizzling street food and the kaleidoscope of goods create an unforgettable sensory experience, embodying Ashgabat’s rich mercantile past and present.

Artbazar showroom

Tucked away in the heart of Ashgabat off Ataturk Street, the Artbazar Showroom Gallery is a hidden gem for lovers of Central Asian art and design. Stepping inside feels like walking into a vibrant tapestry of Turkmenistan’s creative soul. From traditional handwoven carpets and silk scarves to bold contemporary paintings and ceramics, the gallery showcases an eclectic mix of local talent and heritage craftsmanship.

Posing as Turkmen at Artbazar showroom, Ashgabat

What sets Artbazar apart is the careful curation - this isn’t just a souvenir shop, but a true celebration of Turkmen artistry. Each piece tells a story, whether it’s a minimalist oil painting inspired by the Karakum Desert or a meticulously embroidered textile reflecting ancient nomadic symbols. We were personally hosted by co-founder Gurbanova Tajigul who came across as warm, friendly, knowledgeable and passionate about their work, often offering insight into the cultural roots behind the art. It’s the perfect spot to find a meaningful gift or simply appreciate the intersection of old and new in Turkmen creative expression.

There is a raised traditional Turkmen seating platform in the gallery. Visitors can put on traditional Turkmen attire and get a picture like the above taken (for free). Highly recommended for travelers looking to experience the artistic heartbeat of Ashgabat.

Altyn Asyr Bazaar (Altyn Asyr Gündogar Bazary): Ashgabat’s Grand Bazaar

Located about 10 kilometers northwest of Ashgabat along the M37 highway, Altyn Asyr Bazaar is Turkmenistan’s largest and most modern market, often called the "Eastern Bazaar" due to its position on the outskirts of the capital.

Opened in 2011, it replaced the older Teke Bazaar and was designed to centralize trade in a sprawling, well-organized complex. The market is a key hub for wholesale and retail commerce, attracting thousands of visitors daily, from local shoppers to traders from across Central Asia.

Altyn Asyr Bazaar (Altyn Asyr Gündogar Bazary): Ashgabat’s Grand Bazaar

The cow market (sýýt bazary) is one of its most famous sections, where livestock traders gather to buy and sell cattle, sheep and goats in a lively, open-air setting. Nearby, rows of butchers offer fresh meat, while dairy vendors sell qurt (dried cheese), butter and fresh milk.

Beyond livestock, the bazaar is a treasure trove of merchandise, from mounds of spices, nuts and dried fruits to stalls piled high with fresh produce like melons, pomegranates and Turkmen tomatoes. Handicrafts such as handmade carpets, silk fabrics and traditional jewelry are also available, showcasing the country’s rich artisanal heritage.

Spanning over 200 hectares, Altyn Asyr is divided into specialized zones - textiles, electronics, household goods and even a car market - making it a one-stop destination for everything from daily groceries to luxury items. The market buzzes with energy, especially on weekends when crowds swell, creating a vibrant, chaotic atmosphere filled with the sounds of bargaining, the scent of grilled kebabs and the sight of trucks unloading goods. With its vast size and diverse offerings, Altyn Asyr Bazaar is not just a marketplace but a vital part of Turkmenistan’s economy and culture.

A Traditional Turkmen Kabob House: A Feast of Flavor and Culture

Tucked away in a quiet corner of rural outskirts of Ashgabat, a traditional Turkmen kabob house (named "Behist") offers us an unforgettable dining experience, blending rich flavors with warm hospitality.

Floor Sitting, Low Raised Table, Private Room at Traditional Turkmen Kabob House

Stepping inside, guests are welcomed by the aromatic smoke of sizzling meats grilling over glowing coals, the air thick with the scent of cumin, garlic and charred lamb fat. For a more intimate gathering, a private room with floor seating awaits - adorned with colorful Turkmen carpets and embroidered pillows, inviting diners to relax in true Central Asian style. At the center of the room sits a low, raised table, where an array of Turkmen delicacies is spread out before the meal. Fresh nan (round tandur-baked bread) arrives first, still warm, alongside bowls of chorek (sweet fried dough) and tangy gurt (dried yogurt balls). Plates of saryk yagly (melted sheep tail fat) and gara chorba (a rich, spiced meat broth) tease the appetite before the main event - the kabobs.

Part of a Traditional Central Asian Turkmen Lunch at Kabob House near Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

The star of the feast is the sizzling-hot kabob, skewered and grilled to perfection. Juicy jeren kabob (lamb marinated in onion and spices), smoky döweli kabob (layered lamb and fat) and tender tovuk kabob (chicken infused with turmeric) are served straight from the fire, their edges crisped from the flames. Each bite is a burst of savory, fatty goodness, best enjoyed with raw onions, sumac and a smear of sarymsakly sauce (garlic yogurt).

To complement the feast, steaming pots of plov (Turkmen rice with carrots and lamb) and manti (dumplings stuffed with pumpkin or meat) are shared among guests. The meal winds down with sweet treats - honey-drenched çalma, fragrant gok chai (green tea) and perhaps a sip of arak (local vodka) for those seeking a stronger finish. As laughter and conversation fill the room, the experience becomes more than just a meal - it’s a celebration of Turkmen culture, warmth and the timeless art of sharing food.

Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque

Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque information board

Tucked away in the windswept plains of Anau, just southeast of Ashgabat, lie the hauntingly beautiful ruins of the Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque - a silent witness to centuries of history, faith and artistry. Built in 1456 by Abu’l-Kasim Babur, a Timurid ruler of Herat, in honor of his father Seyit Jemaleddin, this once-grand mosque stood as a stunning example of Timurid architecture, with intricate tilework, elegant symmetry and a majestic façade that blended Persian and Central Asian influences.

Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque

Though only fragments remain today - arched walls, foundations and pieces of its once-famous turquoise portal - the spirit of the mosque still lingers in the air, carried by the desert breeze. The Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque was not just a place of worship; it was a cultural beacon, attracting scholars, poets and architects. Its design echoed the sophisticated tastes of the Timurid dynasty, emphasizing balance, spirituality and geometry.

Seyit Jemaleddin Mosque

Legend says the mosque’s tiles once bore a mystical inscription warning against vanity, a reflection of the deeply Sufi beliefs of the era. Sadly, the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake brought much of it down, but the ruins remain a site of pilgrimage for those interested in Turkmenistan’s rich Islamic heritage. Standing amidst the crumbling bricks and wildflowers, you can almost hear the ancient call to prayer and feel the echo of a once-flourishing Silk Road city that bridged East and West.

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

Turkmenbashy Ruhy Mosque

The Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, located in the village of Gypjak near Ashgabat, is one of Central Asia's most magnificent and controversial religious monuments. Completed in 2004 under the rule of President Saparmurat Niyazov (Turkmenbashi), the mosque was built as a grand tribute to Turkmen spirituality and the former leader's legacy.

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque

This place blows your mind then makes you scratch your head. Imagine a French-designed (yes, really!) marble wonderland where Versailles meets Mecca - all gold domes, turquoise tiles and minarets piercing the sky.

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, Turkmenistan

The scale is ridiculous (10,000 people can pray here!), the craftsmanship insane (those hand-painted Quranic verses!) and the sparkle factor through the roof (literally - those 91m minarets catch the sun for miles). But here's the twist: it's also the resting place of Turkmenbashi, the former leader who put his own spiritual book, the Ruhnama, alongside the Quran.

Turkmenbashi Mausoleum at Turkmenbashy Ruhy Mosque

You'll leave dazzled by the architecture but chewing on some serious "wait, what?" moments.

Turkmenbashi Mausoleum at Turkmenbashy Ruhy Mosque

Pro tip: Go at golden hour when the whole complex glows, cover up respectfully and don't skip the surreal mausoleum annex. Worth it for the WTF factor alone. Architectural masterpiece? Political statement? Both? You decide.

Legendary Turkman Alabai Dogs at a Local Dog Park

Turkmen Alabay dogs are ancient guardians of the Central Asian Steppes. The Turkmen Alabai (also called Central Asian Shepherd) is one of the world's oldest livestock guardian breeds, with roots stretching back over 4,000 years along the Silk Road.

Bred by nomadic tribes to protect flocks from wolves and thieves, these massive, thick-necked dogs are living symbols of Turkmen pride - revered for their fearlessness, loyalty and intelligence. Recognizable by their powerful build (weighing up to 80kg/175lbs), cropped ears and distinctive black masks, Alabais possess a calm but formidable presence, assessing threats before acting.

Turkmen Alabay: Ancient Central Asian Shepherd Dog

We visited a local breeder's dog park (here) which also functions as a dog rescue shelter and met and greeted few of these gorgeous friends of humans and their pups.

In 2020, Turkmenistan declared the breed a national treasure, banning their export to "preserve purity." In 2021, President Berdimuhamedov unveiled a bizarrely extravagant tribute to the breed: a $15 million marble-walled Alabay Park near Ashgabat’s Olympic Complex. The centerpiece is a gold-leaf statue of an Alabay atop a rotating pedestal, surrounded by climate-controlled kennels with individual TVs (!) for breeding dogs. The park hosts annual "Alabay Beauty Contests" and even has a canine museum tracing the breed’s history.

Trivia: Local breeders whisper that the park’s pampered TV-watching pups would struggle on real farms - where true Alabais still work, embodying their ancestors’ grit.

The Extraordinary Ashgabat TV Tower

As we wound our way up the slopes of the Kopet Dag mountains just outside Ashgabat, our eyes were drawn skyward to one of Turkmenistan’s most striking landmarks - the towering Ashgabat TV Tower, crowned by a colossal eight-pointed star. This isn’t just any star - it holds the Guinness World Record as the largest architectural star in the world.

Ashgabat TV Tower with Guinness World Record Largest Architectural Star in the World

Standing tall at 211 meters (692 feet), the tower is both a feat of engineering and a glowing symbol of national pride. At night, the star lights up like a celestial jewel over the city, casting its soft glow across the marble-clad capital below. The design isn’t just for show; the eight-pointed star, known as the Rub el Hizb, holds deep meaning in Turkmen and Islamic culture, symbolizing balance, harmony and guidance.

Ashgabat TV Tower with Guinness World Record Largest Architectural Star in the World

From its lofty perch, the tower offers breathtaking views of the city and desert beyond and the entire structure feels like something from a futuristic dream - part monument, part spaceship, all drama. It's one of those surreal only-in-Turkmenistan moments that leaves you stunned, staring up in quiet awe.

Ashgabat at Night: A Neon Wonderland

When the sun sets over Ashgabat, the city transforms into a dazzling spectacle of light, meticulously designed to showcase Turkmenistan’s wealth and modernity.

Ashgabat at Night (Panorama)

The streets glow under a sea of neon rope lights, which trace the edges of buildings, bridges and monuments in vibrant hues of blue, white and gold.

Ashgabat at Night (Panorama)

These luminous outlines give the city’s already grandiose architecture an almost surreal, futuristic quality, as if the entire metropolis has been sketched in light against the dark desert sky.

Yyldyz Hotel & Wedding Palace at night in Ashgabat

The lighting design is both precise and extravagant, emphasizing symmetry and scale.

Ashgabat Shopping Mall at Night (Asgabat söwda we dynç alys merkezi)

Government buildings, cultural centers and even residential towers are adorned with pulsing LED displays, cascading light waterfalls and geometric patterns that shift in color.

Ashgabat night view from foothills of Kopet Dag mountains

The Presidential Palace, the Ministry buildings and the Alem Cultural Center become radiant landmarks, their facades shimmering like mirages. Fountains along the main boulevards are illuminated in synchronized displays, their jets dancing to music while bathed in rainbow-colored spotlights.

Ashgabat at Night

Yet amid this electric grandeur, Ashgabat at night feels strangely serene. The wide, marble-paved avenues are sparsely populated, with the occasional car gliding past like a silent observer.

Ashgabat Shopping Mall at Night (Asgabat söwda we dynç alys merkezi)

The glow of the Akhal-Teke horse statue or the Independence Monument adds a golden aura to the skyline, while the distant Yyldyz Hotel, lit like a spaceship, completes the otherworldly scene.

Yyldyz Hotel at night in Ashgabat

Whether seen from the foothills of the Kopet Dag or from the window of a passing taxi, Ashgabat’s nocturnal brilliance is a testament to its singular vision - a city sculpted not just in marble, but in light itself.

Ashgabat at Night

Turkmen Railways (Türkmendemirýollary) Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi Overnight Sleeper Train

Rather than flying, we decided to hop on the overnight sleeper train from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi. This route is part of the famous Trans-Caspian Railway, first built in the 1880s when Turkmenistan was under Russian rule. It's incredible to think we were traveling the same tracks that once connected the Russian Empire to its Central Asian territories over a century ago!

Train to Turkmenbashi at platform at Ashgabat Train Station

Our comfortable 4-berth couchette made the journey enjoyable - clean beds, fresh linens and surprisingly decent bathrooms (similar to our positive experiences on Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian Railway trips when we went from Moscow to Beijing by train). As we left Ashgabat's gleaming white cityscape behind, we imagined how different this trip must have been for early travelers on this line, when steam locomotives crossed these same Karakum desert routes.

Turkmenbashi Caspian Sea Port Terminal next to train station

The night passed peacefully with the gentle rocking of the train. At dawn, we caught glimpses of the Caspian Sea approaching - the very reason this railway was originally built, to link Russia's empire to this important body of water.

Turkmenbashi Train Station

Stepping off in Turkmenbashi, we felt connected to generations of travelers, traders and explorers who've made this journey before us. That's the magic of train travel in Turkmenistan - you're not just getting from A to B, you're riding a living piece of history. The Trans-Caspian Railway's legacy lives on in these tracks and we felt privileged to be part of its story, if only for one night. For history buffs and adventure travelers alike, this overnight journey is truly special.

Turkmenbashi: Gateway to Central Asia from the Caspian Sea

Folklore says the Caspian Sea was once a landlocked lake blessed by ancient spirits, until an angry god punched through the mountains, flooding the basin forever. Standing on the windy docks of Turkmenbashi, it's easy to believe.

The port of Turkmenbashi on the Caspian Sea holds significant historical and strategic importance as a vital hub along the ancient Silk Road, which once connected the East and West through trade and cultural exchange. In modern times, Turkmenbashi has revitalized its legacy by becoming a key node in international trade routes, including China's Belt and Road Initiative, enhancing Turkmenistan’s role as a transit corridor between Europe and Asia. The port facilitates the transport of oil, gas and goods, boosting regional connectivity and economic growth. Its modernization underlines Turkmenistan’s ambition to reclaim its historical position as a crossroads of commerce, blending its Silk Road heritage with contemporary trade dynamics.

Caspian Sea Port of Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan

Today, Turkmenbashi stands as a symbol of Turkmenistan's maritime gateway, linking Central Asia to global markets while preserving its legacy as a historic trade nexus.Turkmenbashi itself is a blend of old Soviet vibes and ambitious new projects.

The Gates of Central Asia, Turkmenbashi, Turkmenistan

We visited the Gates of Central Asia monument in Turkmenbashi. It's two towering white pillars topped with a crescent-shaped lintel, all adorned with intricate Turkmen motifs, gleam like a mirage against the Caspian backdrop. By night, it’s lit with rainbow LEDs. While its scale is undeniably impressive, the monument’s isolation - perched between a desert and a half-finished resort zone - gives it a surreal feel. The surrounding plaza, with its polished marble and silent fountains, feels deserted. Yet, there’s something charming about its over-the-top ambition!

Here is a little video about our adventures in Ashgabat and journey to Turkmenbashi for you to watch and enjoy!

From Turkmenbashi, we continue our Turkmenistan adventure to the stellar Yangykala Canyon and beyond. That story continues in the next episode (see [Episode 2: Karakum Desert, Yangykala Canyon, Balkan Province, Balkanabat, Nokhur Village, a Tree where Noah's Family Sheltered & Kow Ata Underground Geothermal Lake]).

- The Vagabond Couple