Sosúa, Cigars & Forgotten History: The Dominican Republic Beyond the Resort Buffet

The town of Sosúa, gateway to Sosúa Beach where the Atlantic Ocean serves up saltwater therapy with a side of sunshine. This former coconut plantation turned resort town once housed Jewish refugees fleeing WWII, though now you're more likely to flee from sunscreen vendors. We're here to soak up the rays and the local culture, in that order.

Our Dominican Republic vacation began when we traded Newark Liberty's airport carpet patterns for the concrete runway of Aeropuerto Internacional del Cibao, landing smack in the north-central Dominican Republic. The airport's name sounds more dramatic than it looks, unless you consider luggage carousels high drama. We checked into one of those all-inclusive resorts on Sosúa's outskirts, the kind where the buffet never sleeps and neither do the vacationers determined to eat their money's worth.

Over the next few days, we explored the lush green countryside that looked like God's golf course after a few too many daiquiris. We hit towns with names that roll off the tongue: Barrabás, Imbert, and Damajagua. We learned that Dominican coffee doesn't just grow on trees here—it's practically a religious experience. And cigars? They're rolled with more care than my grandma's Sunday pot roast.

Here's a complete map of our driving route in the Dominican Republic for those who like to follow along from the comfort of their couch.

Descending into Cibao International, where the clouds part like curtains at a really expensive show. This runway was originally built during WWII to hunt German U-boats, though now it mostly hunts for your misplaced luggage. The approach offers views so green they should come with a chlorophyll warning.

Here's an obscure nugget about those anti-submarine operations: The U.S. Navy's VP-83 squadron flew PBY Catalina flying boats from this area in 1942-43, hunting German U-boats that were sinking Allied oil tankers. Their most famous pilot was a former barnstormer who'd once crashed at a county fair in Nebraska. The runway he helped build now welcomes tourists who complain about baggage fees.

That asphalt strip welcomes more than just tourists—it handles racehorses, cigars, and enough coffee to keep Italy awake for a year. The airport's cargo terminal once shipped a single racing horse valued at more than most of the airplanes here. We're just happy our luggage made it without needing a first-class ticket.

Let's talk geography with a side of obscure trivia. The Dominican Republic occupies the eastern two-thirds of Hispaniola and shares a border with Haiti that's more complicated than my last relationship. It's the Caribbean's second-largest country by both area and population, which surprises people who think it's just resorts and beaches.

Politically, it's a representative democracy with a presidential system, which means elections happen regularly and everyone argues about them passionately. The president serves four-year terms and does double duty as head of state and government. The political scene here has more twists than a telenovela, with parties shifting alliances faster than tourists change swimsuits.

Now for the obscure bit: The Dominican Republic was the first place in the Americas to establish a sugar mill (in 1516), a university (1538), and a cathedral (1540). It also had the first African slaves arrive in 1501, which began a tragic history that shaped the entire region. The country even briefly rejoined Spain in the 1860s, a fact that doesn't come up at the all-inclusive resort orientation.

The Dominican Republic is a living museum where colonial architecture jostles with modern resorts, and history hides behind every palm tree. From the chaotic energy of Santo Domingo to the tranquil beaches of the north coast, this place serves adventure with a side of rum.

Important geography lesson: The Dominican Republic is not Dominica. One has resorts, the other has volcanoes. One speaks Spanish, the other English. They're as different as merengue and reggae, though both will happily take your tourist dollars.

History here is like a layer cake with too many fillings. First came the Taíno people, who called the island Quisqueya. Then Columbus showed up in 1492, claimed it for Spain, and started the whole "New World" thing. Santo Domingo became the first European city in the Americas, which is why its Colonial Zone looks older than your great-grandmother's recipes.

Cibao International Airport has its own backstory. It started as a WWII military airfield built to hunt German submarines in the Caribbean. Apparently the Nazis were really into Caribbean vacations too. After the war, it morphed into a civilian airport and got its fancy "international" title in 2002. Today it connects northern Dominican Republic to the world, handling everything from tourists to thoroughbred racehorses.

The airport exit doors: gateway to humidity and adventure in equal measure. Cibao International is cleaner and more organized than some Caribbean airports we've seen, which isn't saying much but we'll take it. The terminal's roof is designed to look like a bird in flight, though most passengers are just hoping their flight isn't delayed.

Cibao International surprised us with its cleanliness and organization. In a region where airport chaos is practically a tourist attraction, this place runs smoother than a well-aged rum. It's like they actually want people to enjoy their travel experience—what a novel concept.

Dominican culture is a spicy stew of Spanish, African, and Taíno influences. Merengue and bachata provide the soundtrack to daily life, while food vendors sell everything from sancocho stew to mofongo. The festivals here are so colorful they'd make a rainbow jealous.

From the airport, we headed to our resort via Puerto Plata, a city founded in 1502 that's seen more history than a textbook. The city's full name is San Felipe de Puerto Plata, named after Philip II of Spain who probably never visited but got a statue anyway.

Puerto Plata, where colonial history meets resort tourism in an awkward but charming hug. The city was named after silver deposits that turned out to be as real as my commitment to dieting on vacation. These days the real silver is in the tourism industry, and everyone's mining it.

The Dominican economy is growing faster than a teenager on a growth spurt, fueled by tourism, agriculture, and manufacturing. Punta Cana draws millions with its resorts so fancy they have butlers for your butler. Santo Domingo mixes commerce with colonial charm, while Santiago de los Caballeros keeps the cigar industry rolling along.

We reached Casa Marina Beach Resort east of Puerto Plata, nestled along Sosúa Bay. The bay was once a major banana export port but now exports mainly sunburns and happy memories.

Casa Marina's entrance gates: where vacation dreams begin and diet plans end. The resort sits on land that once grew bananas for the United Fruit Company, a fact that's fruitier than the welcome drink. These days it grows mainly relaxation and the occasional sunburn.

The United Fruit Company that once grew bananas here had its own secret police force and private railways. They also invented the concept of the "banana republic" - not just a clothing store, but actual countries they controlled. Their medical department once published a study claiming bananas could cure celiac disease, which was about as scientifically sound as our attempts to balance buffet plates.

Casa Marina's grounds are so lush they probably photosynthesize their own cocktails. The landscaping includes rare Caribbean plants collected from islands you can't pronounce. Walking through here feels like being in a botanical garden that serves piña coladas.

With sprawling grounds and ocean views that could make a postcard jealous, Casa Marina offered escape from reality. The kind of place where your biggest decision is pool or beach, and both answers are correct.

Whether lounging by pools, getting spa treatments, or attempting water sports, there was no shortage of ways to forget about email and responsibilities. The resort had more activities than a cruise ship and better food than my kitchen back home.

The pool area: where chlorinated water meets questionable swimming abilities. This pool uses saltwater filtration, which is fancy talk for "less chemical burn in your eyes." We tested it thoroughly by floating with a cocktail in hand, for science.

Accommodations ranged from cozy rooms to suites so spacious you could get lost between the bed and the minibar. Each came with modern amenities and little touches that said "we want you to stay forever, or at least another week."

Our room featured Dominican mahogany woodwork, harvested sustainably from local forests. The wood was probably more well-traveled than some of the guests. The bed was so comfortable we considered smuggling it home in our luggage.

Dominican mahogany was so prized in the 18th century that the Spanish crown declared it "royal wood" and ordered every tree mapped. Shipbuilders paid triple for it because termites found it about as appetizing as we find kale smoothies. The wood in your room has more royal decrees in its history than we have missed gym sessions on this vacation.

The dining area where calories don't count and willpower goes to die. 70% of the produce comes from local farms, which explains why the pineapple tastes like sunshine. We ate our weight in tropical fruit and have no regrets, only stretchy pants.

Dining options ranged from buffets that stretched longer than a Dominican baseball game to à la carte restaurants serving everything from local specialties to international cuisine. Casa Marina Beach Resort promised memorable experiences, and delivered them by the plateful.

Dominican coastal waters showcase turquoise and azure shades that make crayon manufacturers jealous. The colors come from shallow depths, coral reefs, and sunlight bouncing off sandy bottoms. In deeper waters, blues deepen to greens influenced by sediment, algae, and plankton.

Caribbean waters so blue they make the sky look like it's trying too hard. The color comes from white limestone sand reflecting sunlight, not Instagram filters. This view alone justifies the price of sunscreen and then some.

Overall, Dominican coastal waters offer beauty that invites visitors to dive in and forget their troubles. The Caribbean's warm embrace has been known to cure everything from stress to questionable life choices.

Disclosure time: We're not affiliated with Casa Marina and this isn't a paid promotion. They didn't even comp our minibar, the monsters.

Beyond cities and towns, the Dominican Republic boasts natural beauty ranging from interior jungles to coastline beaches. The island offers outdoor adventures for everyone from casual strollers to adrenaline junkies.

After checking into Casa Marina, the neighboring Lifestyle Holidays Vacation Resort offered us free transport and access. Their ulterior motive? Timeshare sales pitches. We took the bait because free stuff is our love language.

Lifestyle Holidays Resort: where they put the "complex" in resort complex. At over 1,000 acres, it's larger than some Caribbean islands we've visited. The entrance suggests they take vacations more seriously than we take our jobs.

Lifestyle Holidays Vacation Resort spans over 1,000 acres along the northern coast. It's so large you need a map to find the pool, and possibly a GPS to locate your room after too many cocktails.

Cofresi Beach, named after a pirate who probably didn't have all-you-can-eat buffets. Roberto Cofresí operated here in the 1820s, burying treasure that tourists still hunt for today. The only treasure we found was an empty lounge chair in the shade.

From exclusive beaches like Cofresi Beach (named for pirate Roberto Cofresí who probably didn't have a timeshare) to golf courses and spas, Lifestyle Holidays Vacation Resort ensures indulgence. The pirate theme is ironic given the resort prices.

Resort amenities so extensive they have their own water treatment plant. It produces 1.5 million gallons daily, which explains how they fill all those pools and hot tubs. We tried to calculate our water usage but gave up and ordered another drink.

Guests choose from elegant suites to private villas with personal concierge service. With over 30 restaurants and bars, nightly entertainment, water parks, and activities, the resort promises a vacation of a lifetime. Or at least until your credit card statement arrives.

The pool complex features the largest pool in the Dominican Republic. At over 500 feet long, you need a passport to swim from one end to the other. We considered swimming its length but decided floating with a drink was more our speed.

We lounged at Lifestyle for a while. It turned out to be a nice upscale resort worth our time, even if we had to dodge timeshare salespeople like they were landmines.

Another disclosure: We're not affiliated with Lifestyle Holidays Vacation Resort either. Our independence remains intact, unlike our waistlines after all that buffet food.

We returned to Casa Marina for nighttime entertainment and dinner. As the sun set, the resort came alive with bonfires, shows, and performances showcasing Dominican rhythms and culture.

Nighttime bonfire entertainment where flames dance better than we ever could. These fire traditions trace back to Afro-Dominican spiritual practices, not just tourist shows. The performers handle fire with skill we reserve for opening pickle jars.

Guests enjoyed live music, dance performances, and themed parties providing perfect opportunities to immerse in Dominican heritage. The entertainment was so good we forgot to check our phones, which is the modern equivalent of a standing ovation.

Merengue performers moving faster than our credit card charges at the gift shop. This music was banned by dictator Trujillo before becoming the national dance. Our attempts to join in looked less like dancing and more like medical emergencies.

Meanwhile, resort restaurants offered tantalizing arrays from sumptuous buffets to gourmet menus featuring international cuisine and local specialties. We ate until our stretchy pants felt like they were judging us.

The Dominican Republic boasts no less than four major mountain ranges. The Cordillera Septentrional, Cordillera Central, Sierra de Neiba, and Sierra de Bahoruco dominate the landscape. After a buffet breakfast that could feed a small village, we headed south toward the Central Cordillera mountains and lush tropical valleys.

The Central Cordillera foothills: where mountains meet clouds in an atmospheric hug. These peaks host the Caribbean's only true alpine ecosystem above 10,000 feet. The air gets thinner but the views get thicker with every foot of elevation.

The Cordillera Central range is home to Pico Duarte, the Caribbean's highest peak at 10,164 feet. It beckons hikers and climbers to explore rugged terrain and verdant valleys. Meanwhile, coastal waters offer playgrounds for snorkelers, divers, and water sports enthusiasts, with coral reefs, mangrove forests, and marine sanctuaries teeming with life.

We met children with smiles so bright they could power a small village. Their joy was infectious, though probably not covered by our travel insurance.

Rural children with smiles that could power a small village. Many communities here still use Taino agricultural methods passed down for generations. Their joy was more refreshing than any air-conditioned resort lobby.

We headed south away from the shore into countryside toward Barrabás, surrounded by charming villages offering glimpses into cultural heritage and rural life. Nestled amidst lush greenery and rolling hills, these villages exude tranquil ambiance inviting visitors to explore picturesque streets and interact with friendly locals.

Countryside so green it makes Ireland look beige by comparison. This region grows heirloom coffee varieties found nowhere else on Earth. The hills roll with more curves than a merengue dancer on Saturday night.

From vibrant traditional wooden houses to sounds of children playing in central plazas, each village has unique charm. Visitors immerse in local culture by sampling traditional dishes at family-owned restaurants, browsing colorful markets with handmade crafts and fresh produce, or participating in community events celebrating regional history and traditions.

Rural landscapes where time moves at the speed of growing seasons. Many farmers still use oxen-drawn plows, methods unchanged for centuries. The pace of life here makes resort relaxation look downright stressful.

Whether strolling through cobblestone streets or hiking along scenic trails, villages around Barrabás offer peaceful retreats from city hustle and bustle. Visitors connect with nature and experience true Dominican hospitality that doesn't come with a minibar charge.

Brewing Tradition: Dominican Coffee on a Caribbean Vacation

As visitors to the Dominican Republic, we experienced coffee cultivation firsthand through a local plantation tour. We witnessed the entire process from tree to cup and savored rich flavors of freshly brewed Dominican coffee that could wake the dead and possibly cure minor ailments.

Traditional coffee grinding using a pilón, a method older than your great-grandmother's recipes. This technique dates to Taino indigenous practices using hollowed tree trunks. The rhythmic pounding sounds better than any coffee shop playlist.

The art of coffee cultivation and traditional bean processing has been a cornerstone of Dominican culture and economy for centuries. From fertile slopes of the Central Cordillera to lush valleys of Jarabacoa and Constanza, coffee plantations dot the countryside producing some of the finest Arabica beans in the Caribbean.

The journey to perfect brew begins with careful cultivation of coffee plants thriving in rich volcanic soil and temperate climate. Smallholder farmers and large estates meticulously tend coffee trees through each growth stage. From planting seeds in shaded nurseries to transplanting seedlings into fertile mountainside soil, the process requires patience, skill, and deep understanding of land.

Traditional brewing using a chorreador cloth filter, which looks suspiciously like a sock. This method produces cleaner coffee than paper filters, retaining flavorful oils. The drip-drip-drip sound is more satisfying than any coffee machine beep.

As coffee cherries ripen on trees, skilled pickers carefully hand-select each one ensuring only finest fruit is harvested. This labor-intensive process often carried out by local families during harvest season requires precision and expertise to pick only ripest cherries.

Once harvested, cherries undergo traditional processing methods passed down through generations. In wet method, cherries are pulped to remove outer skin leaving behind seeds (beans) which are then fermented, washed, and sun-dried on patios or raised beds. Alternatively, in dry method, cherries are left to dry in sun before being hulled to reveal beans inside.

Serving coffee so strong it should come with a warning label and possibly a waiver. Traditionally sweetened with raw cane sugar and sometimes spiced with cinnamon. One sip contains more caffeine than our entire coffee shop order back home.

While modern technology and mechanization have made their mark on coffee industry, many Dominican farmers continue upholding traditional processing methods believing they yield superior quality and flavor. This dedication to tradition coupled with sustainable farming practices and environmental stewardship has earned Dominican coffee excellence on global stage.

The coffee finally served to us in little glasses was incredibly strong and concentrated, being pure coffee extract direct from what started as coffee beans. One sip of this brew contained more strength than multiple espresso shots with flavor beyond compare. We're pretty sure we saw sounds and heard colors afterward.

Crafting Excellence: Hand-Rolled Cigars in the Dominican Republic

The Dominican Republic is renowned for rich tobacco heritage and artistry of hand-rolled cigar production. From fertile fields of Cibao Valley to bustling cigar factories of Santiago and La Romana, the country's cigar industry is steeped in tradition and craftsmanship that would make even the most seasoned smoker weep with joy.

Preparing tobacco leaves with more care than we give our tax returns. The sorting process called 'escogida' classifies leaves by texture, color, and aroma. Each leaf is examined like a precious gem, which it basically is to cigar aficionados.

The journey of a hand-rolled cigar begins in fields where skilled tobacco farmers carefully cultivate and harvest premium tobacco leaves. Dominican fertile soil and favorable climate provide ideal conditions for growing tobacco yielding leaves prized for flavor, aroma, and texture.

A torcedor hand-rolling cigars with precision we reserve for opening Amazon packages. Master rollers produce 150+ identical cigars daily through muscle memory. Their hands move faster than our minds after that strong coffee.

Once harvested, tobacco leaves undergo meticulous curing process where they are dried and fermented to develop unique characteristics. This process can take several months requiring careful monitoring to ensure leaves reach optimal condition for rolling.

Lighting a cigar with more ceremony than a royal coronation. Proper technique involves rotating above flame without direct contact. We managed not to set anything on fire, which we consider a personal victory.

After curing, tobacco leaves are sorted and graded based on size, texture, and flavor profile. Master blenders with years of experience and refined palates meticulously select and blend different tobacco varieties to create desired flavor profiles for each cigar. This art of blending is where true craftsmanship shines as blenders strive to achieve perfect balance of strength, complexity, and aroma.

Enjoying a cigar aged longer than some celebrity marriages. Premium Dominican cigars age 1-3 years in cedar-lined rooms before sale. The smoke circles we produced were less elegant but equally satisfying.

Once tobacco leaves are sorted and blended, skilled torcedores (cigar rollers) begin delicate process of hand-rolling each cigar. Sitting at workbenches with precision and dexterity, torcedores carefully arrange layers of filler, binder, and wrapper leaves skillfully shaping cigars with expert hands. This meticulous process requires years of practice and keen eye for detail ensuring each cigar is rolled to perfection.

After rolling, cigars undergo aging periods where they are stored in climate-controlled aging rooms allowing flavors to meld and mature. This aging process can last from several months to several years depending on desired flavor profile. Once aged, cigars are carefully inspected for quality and consistency before being packaged in elegant boxes or bundles ready for aficionados worldwide.

The last stop on our tour before returning to our resort was lunch at Damajagua Centro de Visitante Río Damajagua (Damajagua Visitor Center) serving as gateway to one of Dominican Republic's most exhilarating natural attractions—the 27 Charcos (waterfalls) of Damajagua.

Lunch at Damajagua Visitor Center, where even the restaurants are eco-friendly. The facility uses solar power and rainwater harvesting because sustainability is sexy. We ate with views that made the food taste better, which is saying something.

Located near town of Imbert, this visitor center provides essential amenities and information for visitors embarking on adventure exploring cascading waterfalls and crystal-clear pools of Damajagua.

Fresh coconut water served in its own biodegradable container—nature's perfect packaging. Coconuts harvested daily from local trees, making plastic bottles look downright primitive. We drank straight from the shell like civilized people, if civilized means slightly messy.

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by friendly guides providing safety briefings and equipment including helmets and life jackets ensuring safe, enjoyable experiences. The visitor center also features facilities like changing rooms, restrooms, and souvenir shops where visitors purchase mementos of their adventure.

Damajagua Visitor Center where adventure begins and common sense sometimes ends. The center employs local guides from nearby communities, keeping tourism dollars local. Facilities include everything you need except maybe courage for jumping off waterfalls.

With convenient location and comprehensive services, the Centro de Visitante Río Damajagua serves as perfect starting point for unforgettable days of adventure in Dominican Republic's spectacular natural landscape. Or in our case, perfect starting point for lunch before heading back to the pool.

The Sosúa Crafts Market

Back at our resort in Sosúa, we rented a little two-wheeler scooter and headed to the Sosúa Crafts Market not far from resort gates. The scooter was smaller than some of the insects we'd seen but got us there with only minor dignity loss.

Our rented scooter: smaller than our luggage but big on adventure potential. Dominican roads have among the world's highest accident rates, a fact we learned after renting. We drove extra carefully, which in local terms means only slightly recklessly.

The crafts market at Sosúa is a treasure trove of handmade crafts, local artwork, and traditional souvenirs. It's also a treasure trove of aggressive sales pitches, but that's part of the charm.

Crafts market stalls bursting with colors more vibrant than our resort towels. Many artisans use techniques passed down from Haitian refugees who settled here. The sales pitches are as colorful as the merchandise, and almost as persistent.

As visitors stroll through colorful stalls, they're greeted by kaleidoscopes of offerings including intricately woven textiles, handcrafted ceramics, carved wooden sculptures, and vibrant paintings depicting Dominican life. Local artisans often hailing from nearby villages showcase skills and techniques providing visitors firsthand glimpses into craftsmanship behind each unique piece.

Handmade crafts featuring larimar, a stone so rare it's only found in the Dominican Republic. The blue pectolite was discovered in 1974 and looks like captured Caribbean seawater. We bought some as souvenirs, then immediately worried about packing fragile rocks.

Beyond shopping, the market is a lively cultural hub with musicians playing traditional tunes, food vendors serving savory delights, and air alive with chatter of locals and tourists alike. Whether browsing for keepsakes or simply soaking in vibrant atmosphere, a visit to Sosúa Crafts Market promises unforgettable journey into heart of Dominican creativity and tradition.

Vibrant paintings using techniques from the 1960s Dominican art movement. This style blends European and African influences into something uniquely Caribbean. The colors are so bright they practically need sunglasses to view properly.

Larimar, that blue stone everyone sells, was discovered in 1974 by a Peace Corps volunteer who followed local rumors of "blue rocks." The Dominican government immediately classified it as a national treasure, which is government-speak for "tourists will pay too much for this." Geologists say it forms when volcanic gases bubble through limestone, which sounds less romantic than "captured Caribbean sea."

Our market haul after negotiations that felt like international diplomacy. Bargaining is expected here, with starting prices 30-50% above actual value. We left with souvenirs and the satisfying feeling of not getting completely ripped off.

This concludes our Dominican Republic vacation. We headed back to the airport to fly home, already planning how to explain our credit card statements.

Departing from Cibao International, where vacation ends and reality begins. The airport handles over 1 million passengers annually despite its mountain location. We left with more souvenirs than sense and memories that'll outlast our sunburns.

The Dominican Republic vacation delights senses and captures imagination with rich history, vibrant culture, bustling economy, and stunning natural landscapes. Whether exploring ancient ruins in Santo Domingo, dancing to merengue rhythms, or soaking up sun on secluded beaches, this island nation offers unforgettable vacation experiences leaving you longing to return again and again. Or at least until your bank account recovers.

Caribbean sunset from above, where the sky puts on a show free of charge. Our flight path follows historic Pan Am Clipper routes from the 1930s. The view almost made us forget about the cramped airplane seats. Almost.

Those Saharan dust particles creating the sunset colors travel 5,000 miles across the Atlantic on trade winds. Scientists track them using satellites to predict hurricane seasons, which seems more productive than what we're doing - trying to calculate if we overtipped the pool bartender. Each sunset here contains dust that once blew over Timbuktu, making our vacation photos more globally connected than our Wi-Fi.

Final sunset where the Caribbean says goodbye with explosive color. Those vibrant hues come from Saharan dust particles traveling thousands of miles. We left with camera rolls full and wallets empty—the perfect vacation balance.

Keep wandering. Check out Panama next.