Panama Travel Guide: Panama City & Bocas del Toro Adventure

by - February 10, 2012

Introduction: Where Two Worlds Collide (Literally!)

Panama is the world's most successful overachiever. It's that weird, wonderful place where skyscrapers rub shoulders with 400-year-old colonial buildings, and you can watch billion-dollar ships squeeze through a canal while monkeys chat in the rainforest just a stone's throw away.

Geologically speaking, Panama is the ultimate connector. About three million years ago, it popped up from the ocean floor, linking North and South America and changing everything from ocean currents to animal migrations. This event, called the Great American Interchange, let saber-toothed cats meet giant ground sloths. We think they had interesting conversations.

Cayo Zapatilla, Bocas del Toro Archipelago, Panama (9.3196° N, 82.1233° W)

Cayo Zapatilla is the Caribbean whispering "you should quit your job and stay here forever." This uninhabited island is part of the Bastimentos National Marine Park, protected since 1988.

The name "Zapatilla" means "little shoe" in Spanish. Early explorers thought its shape resembled a slipper floating in the sea. The island is actually growing thanks to its healthy, expanding coral reefs—a rare trend in the modern Caribbean.

Our Panamanian adventure began with a city that's basically showing off. Panama City has more layers than a wedding cake: Spanish colonial at the bottom, French influence in the middle, and a shiny American-style financial district on top.

Then came the main event: the Panama Canal. Watching massive ships get a piggyback ride across the continent by tiny electric "mules" is mesmerizing. Finally, we hopped on a plane to Bocas del Toro, a Caribbean archipelago where colors go on vacation.

Here's a map of our Panamanian rollercoaster ride. It involves buses, boats, planes, and probably a few modes of transport we've forgotten about.

"The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page." – Saint Augustine

Panama City: Where History and Skyscrapers Have an Awkward Relationship

Panama City is like that friend who can't decide what to wear, so they wear everything at once. You've got 16th-century Spanish fortifications next to glass towers trying to poke holes in the clouds. Founded in 1519, this city has seen more drama than a telenovela.

It holds the title for "oldest continuously occupied European settlement on the Pacific coast of the Americas." Today, it's a delicious cultural stew with indigenous, African, Spanish, and immigrant flavors all mixed together.

Punta Pacifica: Dubai's Tropical Twin

Imagine if architects got really into playing with blocks, then decided to build their creations on reclaimed peninsula. That's Punta Pacifica. This neighborhood is so fancy, the seagulls probably have better manners than we do.

Punta Pacifica, Panama City, Panama (8.9850° N, 79.5140° W)

Punta Pacifica is where buildings compete for the "best view of the ocean" award. This area was once ocean floor, transformed through a massive land reclamation project.

Engineers used a technique called "deep soil mixing" to stabilize the squishy ground—basically baking a really complicated, million-dollar cake. Property values here have increased over 300% in two decades, fueled by Panama's banking boom.

Geologically, Punta Pacifica sits on what was once ocean floor. Through the magic of engineering, they've created prime real estate where fish used to swim.

Despite the "look but don't touch" vibe, it's surprisingly walkable. There are parks, waterfront paths, and enough cafes to caffeinate a small army of bankers. It's like they said, "Let's build a luxury neighborhood, but make it actually livable."

Punta Pacifica skyline, Panama City, Panama (8.9850° N, 79.5140° W)

The Punta Pacifica skyline is proof that buildings can have serious height envy. The tallest, the JW Marriott Panama, was originally the Trump Ocean Club—showing how global branding washes up on Panamanian shores.

This architectural density creates its own microclimate. The wind tunnels between towers can suddenly turn a calm day into a hair-raising experience, much to the delight of local pigeons showing off their aerobatics.

"To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries." – Aldous Huxley

Amador Causeway: The World's Most Scenic Leftovers

The Amador Causeway is what happens when you have too much rock from digging a canal. "I know!" said someone in 1913. "Let's build a road to some islands!" And thus, Panama got its most Instagrammable jogging path.

This 6-kilometer ribbon connects four little islands to the mainland. During World War II, it was a defense point. Today, it's all about brunch with a view.

Amador Causeway, Panama City, Panama (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

The Amador Causeway is where rocks from the canal found a new purpose. Over 10 million cubic meters of excavated material were used to build this scenic walkway.

It almost didn't happen. Engineers initially wanted to dump the material elsewhere, but planner Joseph Bucklin Bishop suggested creating a tourist attraction instead. His 1913 memo essentially predicted Instagram before cameras were invented.

The four islands each have their own personality. Naos Island hosts brainy scientists at the Smithsonian. Culebra Island is the quiet introvert. Perico Island is the party animal with marinas and bars. Flamenco Island is the dedicated beach bum.

Oceanographically, the causeway sits in the Gulf of Panama, where Pacific waters mix with freshwater from rivers. This creates a unique marine buffet for fish and birdwatchers.

Bar and Restaurant on Perico Island, Amador Causeway, Panama (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

A bar and restaurant on Perico Island where cocktails come with ocean views. This island was named after the parrots (pericos) that once flocked here before development.

The waters here are unusually rich due to an "upwelling" effect caused by the causeway's design. Nutrient-rich water rises to the surface, feeding a food chain that attracts everything from snapper to seasonal sailfish.

Perico Island Marina is where boats go to show off. Yachts bob like expensive bathtub toys while people sip drinks and pretend they're in a Bond movie.

From an economic perspective, this little marina punches above its weight. It's a hub for international shipping, sport fishing charters, and yacht services. Basically, it's where money floats on water.

Perico Island Marina, Amador Causeway, Panama City, Panama (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

Perico Island Marina is where boats have better parking spots than most of us. The marina can accommodate vessels up to 200 feet, attracting a global yachting crowd.

The cultural mix is fascinating: Panamanian traditions meet American-style development, sprinkled with international yachting culture. It's a delicious waterfront smoothie of different worlds.

Walking along the marina is basically free therapy. There's something about watching expensive boats do nothing that's incredibly calming. You half-expect a mermaid to pop up and ask for directions.

Dining at Perico Island, Panama City, Panama (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

Dining at Perico Island where the seafood is so fresh, it might introduce itself. The restaurant scene here blends Panamanian ceviche with international cuisine.

Local fishermen sometimes sell their catch directly to chefs at the marina docks. This "boat-to-table" movement happens organically here, decades before it became a trendy city restaurant concept.

From the causeway, you get a view of Panama City's skyline that makes every photo look like a postcard. The buildings shimmer in the tropical light.

The view isn't just pretty—it's historically significant. During the 1989 U.S. invasion of Panama, this causeway was one of the first places secured for its perfect vantage point. Today, instead of soldiers with binoculars, you have tourists with iPhones.

Panama City skyline viewed from Amador Causeway (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

The Panama City skyline from Amador Causeway proves cities can be both busy and beautiful. The tallest building, the Trump Tower (now JW Marriott), stands at 293 meters.

This view showcases Panama's dramatic economic rise. In 1990, after the invasion, there were fewer than 10 buildings over 20 stories. Today, there are over 150, creating one of Latin America's most iconic skylines.

Flamenco Island is where beach dreams come true. The sand is so white it practically glows, and the water is that perfect Caribbean turquoise.

In Panamanian folklore, the islands around the causeway are said to be protected by water spirits. Given how pristine they are, maybe there's some truth to that.

Flamenco Island, Panama City, Panama (8.9322° N, 79.5330° W)

Flamenco Island is where the beach is so nice, even the seagulls look relaxed. This island was named after the Spanish ships (flamencos) that once anchored here.

The beach's perfect crescent shape is actually a "tombolo"—a natural sandbar that connects the island to the causeway. It's a dynamic geological feature that changes with each storm season, much to the frustration of engineers trying to keep the road intact.

"We travel not to escape life, but for life not to escape us." – Anonymous

Casco Viejo: The Historic Heart That Refuses to Retire

Welcome to Casco Viejo, Panama City's historic district and certified UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is where the city keeps its memories—in charming, slightly crumbling buildings that have seen more history than a textbook.

Built in 1673 after pirates burned down the original city, Casco Viejo was designed with defense in mind. It's on a peninsula with water on three sides: "Come at me, pirates! I dare you!"

Casco Viejo Wall at French Square, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The Casco Viejo wall near France Square has seen things. So many things. These 17th-century fortifications were built using coral stone from the nearby reefs.

The walls are up to 10 meters thick in places. During restoration, archaeologists found 18th-century garbage pits behind them—centuries-old trash that's now treasure for historians studying daily colonial life.

Walking through Casco Viejo is like time travel, but with better coffee options. The cobblestone streets clatter underfoot, colorful balconies overflow with flowers, and every building has a story.

The architecture is a fascinating mix: Spanish colonial with natural air conditioning (those thick walls), French influences from the canal days, and Art Deco additions from when Panama was feeling fancy.

What's crazy about the restoration is how recent it all is. Less than 20 years ago, this area was considered dangerous and largely abandoned. Then the government offered tax incentives, and suddenly everyone wanted colonial real estate.

Casco Viejo streets, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

Casco Viejo streets where every corner is a potential Instagram post. The cobblestones are actually ballast stones from Spanish ships, repurposed when the vessels arrived empty of goods but full of rocks.

The colorful paint isn't just for tourists. Historically, different colors indicated a building's purpose: yellow for commerce, blue for residential, and red for religious institutions. Today, it's more about aesthetic competition between boutique hotel owners.

Let's talk about some architectural stars. The Jesuit Monastery Ruins have had more drama than a soap opera. Built in 1641 as Panama's first university, it was abandoned when Spain kicked out the Jesuits in 1749. A fire and an earthquake later, it's a beautiful, melancholy ruin.

Jesuit monastery at Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesus, Casco Viejo, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The ruins of the Jesuit monastery are proof that even buildings have mid-life crises. What remains are mostly the walls of the church and university buildings.

Archaeologists discovered that the Jesuits operated a sophisticated water collection system here, with cisterns that could hold 40,000 liters. They were basically 17th-century environmental engineers before it was cool.

Iglesia de Santo Domingo has the most dramatic backstory since the Bible. Built in the 17th century, it burned down. They rebuilt it. It burned down AGAIN. At this point, the building said, "I'm not going anywhere, fire!"

The adjacent convent ruins now host the Colonial Religious Art Museum, a time capsule of Spanish colonial bling where European art met tropical materials.

Convent at Iglesia de Santo Domingo, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The ruins of the convent at Iglesia de Santo Domingo still stand despite fire's best efforts. Locals nicknamed it "La Iglesia del Fuego" (The Church of Fire).

The current stone structure, built in 1747, survived because someone finally said, "Let's not use wood this time." The convent housed Panama's first library, which tragically burned with the original church.

The Arco Chato (Flat Arch) is basically showing off. Built in the 18th century, it's a flat arch spanning 50 feet without central support. Engineers looked at it and said, "That shouldn't work." But it does.

Legend says when Americans were considering the canal project, this arch—still standing after centuries of earthquakes—convinced them Panama was geologically stable. Whether true or not, it makes a great story.

Arco Chato, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

Arco Chato is the arch that defies physics and common sense. It was part of the Santo Domingo church, serving as a choir loft support.

The arch's stability comes from its unique construction: interlocking bricks arranged in a catenary curve (the natural shape a hanging chain takes). This distributes weight perfectly, making it earthquake-resistant despite looking impossibly delicate.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asís is what happens when Baroque architecture goes on a tropical vacation. Ornate details, towering bell towers, and enough gold leaf to make a pirate drool.

The church's survival is a testament to Panamanian resilience. Earthquakes, fires, humidity that could rust a rock—this building has seen it all.

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

Iglesia San Francisco de Asis showcases Baroque beauty in the tropics. The church has two bell towers, but they're not identical—one is original 17th century, the other rebuilt in the 19th after an earthquake.

The interior features a unique "sunburst" altar made of carved wood covered in gold leaf. During restoration, conservators found seven layers of paint on the walls, each representing a different historical period's idea of fashionable church decor.

Casa Góngora, built in 1760, is the best-preserved colonial house in Panama City. It's so original, you expect the 18th-century owner to offer you chocolate (a popular colonial drink). Today, it's a cultural center showcasing Panamanian art.

The house's architecture is designed for tropical living: high ceilings, thick walls, and an interior courtyard for ventilation. It's ancient air conditioning powered by physics.

Casa Góngora, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

Casa Góngora is the colonial house that refused to be trendy and dated. It was built for a wealthy merchant and features the original wooden "celosías" (lattice screens) that provided privacy and airflow.

The house survived because it was continuously occupied, even during Casco Viejo's decline. In the 1970s, it housed a famous brothel before becoming an art center—quite the career change.

Plaza Carlos V has seen it all: military parades, political rallies, and today, tourists trying to find shade. The statue of Charles V looks vaguely confused, probably wondering how he ended up in Panama.

The square is surrounded by architectural gems, but most people are here for the Panama hats. Which, as we've established, aren't from Panama at all! They're from Ecuador, but got their name when Teddy Roosevelt wore one during canal construction.

The hat confusion is marketing genius gone wrong. They became popular during the California Gold Rush when miners bought them in Panama while waiting for ships. The name stuck. Today, genuine Panama hats can cost thousands and take months to weave.

Plaza Carlos V, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The bust of Charles V at Plaza Carlos V looks regal and slightly sunburned. The Holy Roman Emperor never visited Panama, but his name adorns the square as a nod to Spanish colonial authority.

The plaza was originally a marketplace and execution site. Today, it's where street performers mimic statues and vendors sell ironically misnamed Panama hats to tourists who don't know they're buying Ecuadorian craftsmanship.

Policia de Turismo are special tourist police who patrol Casco Viejo on foot, bicycles, and motorcycles. They help with directions, recommendations, and safety. This focus on security has been crucial for the neighborhood's revival.

Policia de Turismo Police motorcycle, Casco Viejo, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The Policia de Turismo motorcycle makes sure tourists only get lost intentionally. This unit was created in 2005 as part of Casco Viejo's revitalization, modeled after similar tourist police in European cities.

Officers receive special training in languages and hospitality. They're as likely to recommend a good restaurant as they are to give directions, blurring the line between law enforcement and concierge service.

"Traveling – it leaves you speechless, then turns you into a storyteller." – Ibn Battuta

France Square: Where French Ambition Met Panamanian Reality

France Square (Plaza de Francia) is Panama's way of saying "thanks for trying" to the French. They tried to build the canal first in 1880. Then tropical diseases, engineering problems, and financial issues said, "Nope!" After losing about 20,000 lives and nine years, they gave up.

The square is a beautiful, slightly awkward tribute to this failure. There's an obelisk topped with a Gallic rooster, surrounded by busts of French explorers involved in the canal attempt.

French Monument Obelisk at France Square, Casco Viejo, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The obelisk with rooster at France Square is France's way of saying "we were here first... sort of." The Gallic rooster has been France's national symbol since the Renaissance.

The monument lists the names of 22 French engineers who died during the canal attempt. Ironically, their work wasn't entirely wasted—American engineers later studied their plans and learned from their mistakes.

The square also has memorials for Dr. Carlos J. Finlay, who discovered mosquitoes transmit yellow fever, and Pablo Arosemena Alba, Panama's first vice president who negotiated with the U.S.

But the real showstopper is the view. From the walls, you can see the Pacific Ocean stretching to the horizon, with ships waiting at the canal. It's a reminder that Panama's story is about connection.

Beneath the square are restored dungeons used by Spanish and Colombian authorities. They're dark, damp, and probably haunted. During World War II, the U.S. military used them as storage. Today, they store tourist curiosity and the occasional spider.

The dungeons, France Square, Casco Viejo, Panama City, Panama (8.9516° N, 79.5346° W)

The dungeons of France Square are where bad decisions had even worse consequences. Prisoners were kept here before being transported to Spanish colonies or executed.

Archaeologists found graffiti carved by 18th-century prisoners, including ships, prayers, and counting marks tracking days of imprisonment. The most poignant: "Dios me libre" (God free me) carved near a small window facing the sea.

Today, Casco Viejo is experiencing a renaissance. Restored buildings house boutique hotels, art galleries, and restaurants. The economic impact is significant—tourism dollars flowing in, jobs created, and a neighborhood that's gone from "avoid after dark" to "must-visit."

From an SEO perspective, Casco Viejo represents everything travelers want: history, culture, great food, beautiful photos, and stories to tell. It's a UNESCO site with personality.

Ciudad del Saber: Where Brains Go on Vacation

City of Knowledge (Ciudad del Saber) is what happens when a military base decides to become a university. Fort Clayton, a former U.S. military base, was handed back to Panama in 1999 and transformed into a 120-hectare campus for brains.

The campus hosts over 200 organizations, including universities, research institutes, NGOs, and tech companies. It's where the Smithsonian studies tropical ecosystems and where startups try to invent the next big thing.

Ciudad del Saber: Knowledge City, Panama (9.0047° N, 79.5842° W)

Ciudad del Saber is where military precision meets academic curiosity. The former barracks now house laboratories, the parade ground is a park, and the officers' club is a conference center.

The transformation cost over $50 million and represents one of the most successful military base conversions in the world. It's a physical manifestation of Panama's transition from a transit economy to a knowledge economy.

The location is no accident. Right next to the Panama Canal, it symbolizes Panama's transition from a transit country (things passing through) to a knowledge economy (ideas being created).

Culturally, it represents Panama's ambitious vision. A small country saying, "We can be a hub for innovation in Latin America." And given the institutions here, it seems to be working.

"The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes." – Marcel Proust

Miraflores Locks: Where Ships Get a Piggyback Ride

The Panama Canal is the world's most expensive water slide for ships. The Miraflores Locks are where the engineering happens. Watching a 50,000-ton ship get lifted 85 feet by nothing but water and gravity is magical.

First, some canal science: The Panama Canal uses freshwater from Gatun Lake, created by damming the Chagres River. Each ship that passes through uses about 52 million gallons of water—enough to fill 78 Olympic swimming pools.

Centro de Visitantes de Miraflores - Miraflores Visitor's Center, Panama (9.0047° N, 79.5842° W)

The Centro de Visitantes de Miraflores is where tourists watch ships do aquatic gymnastics. The four-story museum receives over 500,000 visitors annually, making it Panama's most popular tourist attraction.

The visitor center was built on the exact spot where the French canal attempt began in 1880. The glass structure symbolizes transparency, contrasting with the secretive military zone this once was during U.S. control.

The Miraflores Visitor Center is basically stadium seating for one of the world's most fascinating shows. You can watch as ships approach, are guided into the locks by electric "mules," and then rise or fall as water does its thing.

We watched the MOL Endeavor, a 53,096-ton container ship, make its journey. The process is slow, precise, and utterly mesmerizing. Gates open, water rushes in or out, the ship rises or falls, gates close, repeat. It's a ballet where the dancers weigh thousands of tons.

The economic impact is staggering. Before the canal, ships traveling from New York to San Francisco had to go around South America—a 13,000-mile journey. The canal cuts that to 5,200 miles. Today, it handles about 6% of world trade.

Here's something most visitors don't know: The canal has its own "traffic control center" that would make NASA jealous. They use a system called "Transit Vessel Booking System" that allows ships to reserve slots months in advance. The most expensive slot ever sold? Over $1 million for a supertanker that needed to go through quickly.

Mules (Electric Locomotives) tow the MOL Endeavor towards the Miraflores Gates to the Pacific ocean (9.0047° N, 79.5842° W)

Mules towing the MOL Endeavor prove that tiny things can move giant things if they work together. These electric locomotives weigh 55 tons each and can pull with 70,000 pounds of force.

The "mules" nickname comes from their original steam-powered ancestors that literally looked like mechanical donkeys. Today's versions are computerized, with operators controlling them via joysticks while monitoring screens showing precise positioning data.

The environmental story is fascinating. The canal created Gatun Lake, one of the largest artificial lakes in the world. This became an unintended wildlife sanctuary—islands that were hilltops before flooding are now isolated ecosystems with unique species.

From a climate perspective, the canal actually reduces global carbon emissions. By providing a shortcut, ships burn less fuel. It's estimated to save about 16 million tons of CO2 annually—like taking 3 million cars off the road.

The human cost of building was horrific—tens of thousands died, mostly from disease. Today, we remember their sacrifice while marveling at what they helped create.

Miraflores Gates at Panama Canal in operation: The gates open lowering water level to Pacific ocean level and mules tow the MOL Endeavor towards the Pacific ocean (9.0047° N, 79.5842° W)

The Miraflores Locks in action show where water does the heavy lifting (literally). Each gate leaf weighs 730 tons but is so perfectly balanced that a 40-horsepower motor can open it.

The gates are made of steel but designed to look like they're made of concrete—a psychological trick by American engineers to make the canal appear more permanent and impressive. The original 1914 gates still operate today, having withstood over 100 years of tropical conditions.

Watching the gates open and close, seeing the water level change, observing the precise movements—it's a symphony of engineering. And the best part? It still works exactly as designed over a century ago.

"Not all those who wander are lost." – J.R.R. Tolkien

Panamá City Center: Where Half a Million Stories Collide

Downtown Panama City is where the rubber meets the road. With half a million people in the city and 1.5 million in the metro area, this place buzzes with energy.

We took the Metro Bus downtown, which costs 25 cents. That's cheaper than a gumball! The bus system is efficient, clean, and proof that public transportation doesn't have to be miserable.

Panamá City Public Bus (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

A ride on the Panamá City public bus where 25 cents buys you a front-row seat to city life. The system uses articulated buses that can carry up to 160 passengers each.

The Metro Bus system replaced chaotic private buses in 2010, cutting commute times by 30% and reducing traffic deaths. It's funded by canal revenues—literally turning ship tolls into better transportation for Panamanians.

Avenida Central España: Panama's Main Street

Avenida Central España is Panama City's spine. It starts at historic Casco Viejo and stretches through the heart of the city. We walked the pedestrian-only section, which is basically a moving party.

The street is a fascinating social laboratory. You've got street performers, vendors selling everything, and enough food options to feed a small army.

One discovery: mobile phone repair stalls run by wizard-mechanics. These guys can fix anything with a circuit board, and they sell Chinese iPhone clones with built-in FM radios. Because apparently, Apple decided we don't need regular radio?

What's fascinating is how it reflects Panama's position as a crossroads of trade. This street has been a commercial hub since the 1950s, when Panama positioned itself as a tax-free shopping destination.

Cell phone repair stall, Avenida Central España, Panama city, Panama (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

A cell phone repair stall where broken dreams get second chances. These informal technicians are part of Panama's large informal economy, which accounts for about 40% of employment.

Their skills are impressive—many learned through online tutorials and can perform micro-soldering that would challenge certified technicians. The Chinese phones they sell often include features removed from mainstream models, like removable batteries and headphone jacks.

The architectural highlights are impressive. The National Theatre looks like it teleported from 19th-century Europe. The President's Palace is so grand, you half-expect trumpeters.

But what captures Panama City's spirit is the mix. Underground pedestrian tunnels next to colonial-era buildings. McDonald's next to traditional craft vendors. It's a city that refuses to be just one thing.

From an urban geography perspective, the layout tells its history. The original settlement was destroyed by pirates. The second settlement was built on a defensible peninsula. The modern city expanded along the coast. Today, it's a sprawling metropolis still figuring out how to connect all its parts.

The street food scene is a social hub, reflecting Panama's history as a crossroads. The Afro-Caribbean influence is strong, with coconut milk and plantains starring in many dishes.

Street food of Panamá City, Panamá (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

A vibrant street food stall serving local favorites like empanadas and carimañolas. Panamanian street food blends indigenous, Spanish, and Afro-Caribbean influences into delicious, affordable meals.

Carimañolas (fried yuca pockets) trace their origins to West African akara, brought by enslaved people. The recipe evolved using local yuca instead of black-eyed peas, creating a uniquely Panamanian dish that's survived for centuries.

While the glitzy Avenida Central España might be past its prime as *the* shopping spot, it's still buzzing with life. It's a living museum of Panama City's commercial history, now packed with local character.

Monumento de los Mártires (Monument to the Martyrs)

The Monumento de los Mártires is a powerful reminder of a day that changed Panama forever. It commemorates the 21 Panamanian students killed on January 9, 1964, during riots over the Panama Canal.

Back then, the Canal Zone was a little piece of the USA plopped in Panama. When students tried to raise their flag at a high school in the Zone, a scuffle turned into a tragedy. Their deaths fueled the movement to get the Canal back, which finally happened in 1999.

Monumento de los Mártires, Panamá (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

The Monumento de los Mártires is a solemn tribute to students whose sacrifice fueled Panama's fight for sovereignty. The 21 obelisks represent each student killed.

Designed by architect Guillermo De Roux, the monument's abstract forms deliberately avoid heroic imagery, focusing instead on loss and memory. The surrounding Plaza 5 de Mayo was the site of massive protests following the 1964 shootings.

The surrounding Calidonia district is steeped in political history. Walking here, you're treading the same ground where the nation's modern identity was forged.

Plaza José Remón Cantera

Just a stone's throw away is Plaza José Remón Cantera, also known as Legislative Park. This place is about another pivotal, dramatic figure in Panamanian history.

The plaza is named after President José Remón Cantera, who served from 1952 to 1955. His term was marked by an "Arms and Cash" policy, and his assassination at a racetrack remains one of Panama's great unsolved political mysteries.

Plaza José Remón Cantera, Panamá (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

Plaza José Remón Cantera is a historic square named for a president whose story ended in mystery. The fountain and green space provide an oasis next to the legislative palace.

Remón's presidency was controversial—he came to power through a military coup but then surprisingly negotiated a treaty with the U.S. that increased Panama's share of canal revenues. His assassination in 1955 was never solved, fueling conspiracy theories for decades.

Today, the square is a green, fountain-filled oasis next to the imposing Palacio Justo Arosemena (the legislature). It's a National Historic Monument and often hosts political rallies.

Banconal: Banco Nacional de Panamá

Now, let's talk money. Founded in 1904, the same year Panama became a republic, the Banco Nacional de Panamá (affectionately called Banconal) is the granddaddy of Panamanian banks.

It's not just any bank; it's the state bank. It acts as the government's piggy bank, manages the nation's funds, and plays a huge role in keeping the economic wheels turning.

Its existence is tied to Panama's unique status of using the US Dollar. Banconal helps manage that complex system and provides stability, which is a big reason why Panama is a financial hub.

Banco Nacional de Panamá - Banconal (8.9833° N, 79.5167° W)

The Banco Nacional de Panamá is the historic state bank, a pillar of Panama's economy since 1904. The neoclassical building was designed by Italian architect Genaro Ruggieri.

Panama is one of only three countries that use the US dollar as official currency (along with Ecuador and El Salvador). Banconal doesn't print money but manages currency circulation and serves as the government's fiscal agent—a unique banking role.

As we wandered back to catch our bus, the sun setting behind the skyscrapers, I realized something: Panama City isn't just a place. It's an ongoing experiment in what happens when history, geography, and ambition collide. And based on what we saw, the experiment is going pretty well.

So, there you have it. Panama City isn't just shiny skyscrapers and a famous canal. It's layers of history, from tragic sacrifices and political intrigue to economic foundations, all seasoned with some of the best street food you'll ever taste.

"Travel makes one modest. You see what a tiny place you occupy in the world." – Gustave Flaubert

The Bocas del Toro Archipelago: Caribbean Paradise Islands

Alright, buckle up! We're swapping the city buzz for island time. Welcome to the Bocas del Toro archipelago, a sprinkle of islands in the northwestern Caribbean corner of Panama. This is where the jungle meets the sea.

Forget everything you know about rushing. Life here moves to the rhythm of reggae beats, lapping waves, and the occasional squawk of a parrot. It's a mosaic of coral islands, each with its own personality.

The culture here is deeply Afro-Caribbean, with English Creole often heard alongside Spanish, and a cuisine rich with coconut, plantains, and fresh seafood.

The journey is part of the adventure. A one-hour hop on a tiny Air Panama turboprop takes you from the mainland hustle to another world.

Air Panama flight from Panama City to Bocas del Toro on Fokker 50 turbo-prop (9.3409° N, 82.2610° W)

Boarding our ride to paradise: Air Panama's trusty Fokker 50 turboprop, Panama City to Bocas del Toro. This route was first flown in the 1930s by bush pilots carrying mail.

The Fokker 50 is perfect for short island hops—its turboprop engines are more efficient at lower altitudes, and it can land on shorter runways. The flight offers stunning views of the San San Pond Sak wetland, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.

The landing is an event. The Bocas del Toro "International" Airport on Isla Colón is adorable and tiny. No baggage carousels here—your luggage is handed to you through a window.

What's fascinating about the flight is that you're following one of the oldest air routes in Central America. Today, instead of mail sacks, they carry tourists in flip-flops.

Air Panama Fokker 50 Turboprop Airplane at BOC Bocas del Toro Isla Colón José E. Hall International Airport (9.3409° N, 82.2610° W)

Our trusty steed, the Fokker 50, parked at the tiny BOC airport. José E. Hall International Airport handles about 50 flights weekly but feels like a friendly bus station.

The airport was named after a local aviation pioneer who died in a crash in 1971. The terminal building is intentionally small to limit tourist numbers and preserve the islands' laid-back character—a rare case of infrastructure design controlling growth.

We ditched a taxi and walked a mile to our hotel—Hotel Bocas del Toro. This place was a winner. A colorful wooden building on stilts, perched right over the calm, green waters of the Bahía de Almirante. Our room was the entire top floor with a balcony offering killer views.

Views of Bahía de Almirante on Caribbean Sea from Hotel Bocas del Toro (9.3409° N, 82.2610° W)

The view from our balcony at Hotel Bocas del Toro. Not too shabby, right? The hotel is built entirely on stilts over the water, a common construction method here to avoid flooding and allow tidal flow.

Bahía de Almirante (Admiral's Bay) was named by Christopher Columbus in 1502 during his fourth voyage. The bay's calm waters and protection from Caribbean storms made it a perfect natural harbor long before tourists discovered it.

Bocas Town, the archipelago's capital, is a delightfully ramshackle, rainbow-colored town built on stilts over the water. It's compact, walkable, and has infectious, laid-back energy.

We spent our first day just wandering, eating street food, and ignoring the very enthusiastic "herb" salesmen on every corner. The town manages to be both tourist-friendly and authentically local.

Island Hopping Adventure: Bastimentos & The Coral Reefs

The real magic of Bocas del Toro is out on the water. We booked a boat tour with a local captain.

Our first stop was Restaurant Jasmin, a legendary spot on stilts off the coast of Isla Bastimentos. Pulling up to this wooden structure surrounded by nothing but sea is surreal. We just had cocktails and coffee, but the vibe was unbeatable.

Restaurant Jasmin, Bastimentos Island, Bocas del Toro, Panama (9.3000° N, 82.2000° W)

Restaurant Jasmin offers dining literally on the Caribbean Sea. The restaurant is built on coral pilings driven into the seafloor, with a thatched roof made from local palm leaves.

The structure has survived multiple hurricanes thanks to its flexible design—it sways with waves rather than resisting them. The menu changes daily based on what local fishermen bring, creating what might be the most locally sourced restaurant in Panama.

Our next aquatic mission was snorkeling at Cayo Coral, a tiny, vibrant speck in the Bastimentos National Marine Park. This protected area isn't just a park; it's a full-blown underwater metropolis where fish have the right of way and the coral does the city planning. Sliding into that water felt less like a swim and more like receiving a backstage pass to the ocean's most exclusive show, where the dress code is strictly scales and fins.

Snorkeling at Cayo Coral, Bastimentos National Marine Park, Bocas del Toro, Panama (approx. 9.2833°N, 82.2000°W)

The view from the surface at Cayo Coral. That clear turquoise water isn't just for postcards; it's a literal window into one of the Caribbean's most biodiverse neighborhoods. We spent half our time snorkeling and the other half trying not to swallow seawater from laughing at the parrotfish's enthusiastic coral-munching sounds.

This section of the Bastimentos National Marine Park is a UNESCO World Heritage buffer zone. The park itself was established in 1988, making it one of Panama's older marine protected areas, and it shows—the ecosystem has had time to perfect its act. The coral formations here are primarily staghorn and elkhorn, which are the skyscrapers of the reef world, providing crucial apartments for thousands of species.

Here's a fun bit of trivia: some of the brain coral colonies in this park are estimated to be over 500 years old. That means they were already middle-aged when pirates were still a legitimate career choice in the Caribbean. The park's protection ensures these ancient, slow-growing organisms can hopefully outlive another few centuries of human shenanigans.

The coral formations are stunning—brain corals, elk horn corals, fans waving in the current. And the fish! Schools of blue tangs and parrotfish, elegant angelfish, and if you're lucky, a sea turtle or harmless nurse shark.

Red Frog Beach: A Slice of Private Paradise

From the water, we headed to the famous Red Frog Beach on Isla Bastimentos. Named after the tiny, poisonous strawberry poison dart frogs that live in the island's rainforest, this beach is a stunner.

We entered through the swanky Red Frog Beach Island Resort and walked along a raised wooden boardwalk through lush jungle to reach the shore. The beach itself is a long, wide curve of golden sand backed by palm trees and jungle.

Red Frog Beach, Bastimentos Island, Bocas del Toro, Panama (9.3000° N, 82.2000° W)

Red Frog Beach offers golden sand, turquoise water, and not a soul in sight. The beach's name comes from the strawberry poison dart frog (Oophaga pumilio) that inhabits the surrounding forest.

These tiny frogs secrete toxins through their skin, which indigenous people historically used on blowdarts. Thankfully, the frogs are shy and avoid humans. The boardwalk protects both visitors and the fragile rainforest ecosystem from each other.

As we sailed away, we passed the famous overwater bungalows on stilts. These eco-cabins are the ultimate splurge, offering private decks and ladders right into the sea. Maybe next time!

"The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever." – Jacques Cousteau

The Crown Jewel: Cayo Zapatilla

The final stop was the one we were most excited about: Cayo Zapatilla. Actually two small, uninhabited coral islands, this is the poster child for a desert island dream.

As our boat approached, it was like a scene from a movie: a perfect ring of white sand, dotted with coconut palms, surrounded by water that shifted from deep blue to luminous turquoise.

The moment we waded ashore, we knew it was special. It felt like we had the entire island to ourselves, save for one local fishing family. The patriarch promptly took his boat out and returned 30 minutes later with a fresh catch of lobster and fish. His wife cooked it all up over a wood fire.

Here's something most tourists don't know: The island gets its name from the Spanish word for "little shoe" because early explorers thought it looked like a shoe floating in the sea. The island is actually growing! The coral reefs around Zapatilla are some of the healthiest in the Caribbean, and they're expanding the island's size through natural accretion.

Fresh catch of seafood cooked and served at Cayo Zapatillas, Bocas del Toro, Panama (9.3196° N, 82.1233° W)

Lunch doesn't get fresher than this! Lobster and fish, caught minutes before, cooked on the beach at Cayo Zapatilla. The fishing family has permits to operate here, part of a sustainable tourism program.

The spiny lobster (Panulirus argus) is caught using traditional methods that avoid damaging the reef. The family has been fishing these waters for three generations, their knowledge passed down orally—a living archive of marine ecology.

After our feast, we explored. The snorkeling right off the beach was incredible—healthy coral gardens teeming with life. Others went paddleboarding in the crystal-clear shallows. We just walked the entire circumference of the little island, marveling at the sheer, untouched beauty.

Leaving Zapatilla as the sun began to dip was bittersweet. It's a place that etches itself into your memory.

Summary: Panama's Dazzling Dual Personality

So, what's the verdict on Panama? It's a country of spectacular contrasts that somehow works perfectly.

In one corner, you have Panama City: a dynamic, modern metropolis with a deep, complex history seen in the scars of the Martyrs' Monument and the intrigue of its political plazas. It's a place of economic hustle, incredible food, and a skyline that rivals any in the world.

In the other corner, just a short flight away, you have Bocas del Toro: a laid-back, Afro-Caribbean archipelago where the jungle grows right into the sea. It's a paradise of colorful towns, world-class snorkeling, and beaches so perfect they look photoshopped.

This duality is Panama's greatest strength. You can marvel at a feat of human engineering like the Panama Canal one day, and swim in a pristine, natural aquarium the next. You can savor sophisticated cuisine in a city loft, then eat lobster with your toes in the sand.

It's a country that caters to history buffs, beach bums, foodies, and adventurers alike. Whether you crave the cosmopolitan energy of the capital or the tranquil rhythm of island life, Panama delivers in spades. It's not just a destination; it's two incredible vacations rolled into one unforgettable journey.

You May Also Like

0 comments