Crowfoot Glacier, Icefields Pkwy, Alberta, Canada

This is the third and last part of our transcontinental North America (USA & Canada) overland road trip continuing from Part 2. In this episode, we start from Going-to-the-Sun Road in Glacier National Park, Montana, USA and cross the United States-Canada land border to Banff and Jasper in Alberta, Canada driving the stunning Icefields Parkway. We explore Columbia Icefield, Athabasca Glacier and more spectacular views around Banff and Jasper National parks, on horseback and our 411 horsepower first generation SVT Raptor pickup.

We then drive the long way home from Jasper, Alberta, Canada to Germantown, Maryland, United States in three days via Edmonton, Saskatoon, North Portal (Saskatchewan, Canada) and Portal (North Dakota, USA) international land border crossing, Fargo, North Dakota, Minneapolis, Chicago, Toledo, Cleveland, Pittsburgh, Harrisburg and Frederick. In this episode (map), we cover around 3,200 miles (5,150 km).

Crossing into Canada: Chief Mountain to Canmore

After soaking in the culture and history of Browning, Montana, we packed up and headed for the border. The drive to the Chief Mountain International Land Border Crossing was smooth, with the majestic Rocky Mountains guiding our way. Crossing into Canada felt symbolic, like stepping into an even wilder frontier.

We followed Alberta Highway 6, winding through lush valleys and open plains, eventually connecting to the Kootenay Highway (Banff-Windermere Highway). The road offered jaw-dropping views at every turn: towering peaks dusted with snow, emerald rivers cutting through the landscape, and the faint hum of wildlife just beyond the tree line.

By mid-afternoon, we arrived in Canmore, a charming mountain town nestled just outside Banff National Park. After checking into our cozy inn, we ventured out for a sunset we’d been dreaming about.

Evening at Vermilion Lakes

The Vermilion Lakes near Banff are renowned for their legendary sunsets, and they didn’t disappoint.

Vermilion Lakes

As the sun dipped behind the jagged peaks of Mount Rundle and Sulphur Mountain, the sky exploded in hues of orange, pink, and purple.

Vermilion Lakes

The still waters of the lakes mirrored the colors perfectly, creating a scene that felt like a painting. We sat on the shoreline, soaking in the beauty, feeling grateful for moments like this on the road.

Scenic Canadian Pacific Railway Train Line at Canmore

Scenic Canadian Pacific Railway Line at Canmore, Alberta, Canada

Nestled against the dramatic backdrop of the Rocky Mountains, the railway lines in Canmore, Alberta, offer a charming blend of scenic beauty and industrial wonder. The historic Canadian Pacific Railway winds its way through this picturesque mountain town, with goods trains carrying everything from timber to grain, a nod to the region's rich heritage and vital role in Canada’s development.

Scenic Canadian Pacific Railway Line at Canmore, Alberta, Canada

Watching these long, powerful trains snake through the valley, their rhythmic clatter echoing against the towering peaks, is both mesmerizing and nostalgic. The railway also shares its space with scenic passenger trains, offering travelers breathtaking views of jagged mountains, emerald rivers, and sprawling forests.

Scenic Canadian Pacific Railway Line at Canmore, Alberta, Canada

Whether you are a rail enthusiast or simply soaking in Canmore’s alpine charm, the trains add a dynamic layer to the serene mountain landscape, reminding everyone of the enduring connection between nature and human ingenuity.

Morning on the Trans-Canada Highway

Bow River off Trans-Canada Highway near Massive, Alberta, Canada

In the morning, we start driving the stretch of the Trans-Canada Highway between Canmore and the Icefields Parkway - a breathtaking journey through some of Canada’s most awe-inspiring landscapes. Flanked by towering peaks of the Rocky Mountains, the road weaves through a pristine wilderness of dense evergreen forests, crystal-clear rivers, and occasional wildlife sightings, from grazing elk to soaring eagles. The Bow River often runs right next to it.

Bow River off Trans-Canada Highway near Massive, Alberta, Canada

The highway itself is a marvel, its smooth lanes winding gently through valleys and skirting turquoise glacial lakes that shimmer under the sun. As you drive, the panoramic views constantly change, from dramatic mountain faces streaked with snow to rolling foothills bathed in golden light during sunrise and sunset.

Bow River off Trans-Canada Highway near Massive, Alberta, Canada

With every turn, this iconic route offers a new postcard-worthy scene, making it more than just a road—it’s an unforgettable experience that perfectly encapsulates the rugged beauty of Alberta's wilderness.

Lake Louise: Nature’s Masterpiece

We drove west along the Trans-Canada Highway to Lake Louise, a place we’d seen in countless photos but couldn’t fully appreciate until we stood before it.

Lake Louise

The lake’s vibrant turquoise water, framed by towering peaks and glaciers, was more beautiful than we imagined. We took a stroll along the Lakeshore Trail, marveling at the contrast of the summer greenery against the icy waters. Kayakers glided across the lake, and birds chirped from the trees. It was serene and magical - a true gem of the Canadian Rockies.

Lake Louise

Lake Louise is a geological marvel shaped by millions of years of natural forces. The lake owes its stunning turquoise color to rock flour - fine glacial silt created as surrounding glaciers grind against bedrock. This rock flour is suspended in the water, refracting sunlight and creating the lake’s signature hue. The surrounding peaks, including Mount Victoria and the Big Beehive, are composed mainly of sedimentary rocks like limestone and shale, formed over 500 million years ago when the area was covered by a shallow sea. Over time, tectonic forces uplifted these rocks, forming the rugged mountains that cradle the lake. Glacial erosion during the last Ice Age carved out the basin where the lake now sits, leaving behind a natural amphitheater of geological history that continues to awe visitors.

The Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

The Fairmont Château Lake Louise is so grand a hotel it might just make you feel like you have wandered into a royal fairytale - or at least the set of a Hallmark movie. Nestled beside the impossibly turquoise Lake Louise and surrounded by towering mountains, this iconic hotel combines jaw-dropping scenery with a level of luxury that’ll have you debating whether to explore the outdoors or just lounge in a plush robe all day.

Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise Hotel

Fancy tea time? Sure. Ice skating on the lake? Absolutely. Summit a nearby mountain? Why not! The Chateau somehow manages to make rugged adventuring feel compatible with sipping cocktails under crystal chandeliers. Just beware: the moment you post a photo, everyone you know will want to crash your vacation. It’s the kind of place that makes you say, “I’m never leaving!” - until the bill reminds you otherwise.

The Epic Icefields Parkway: From Lake Louise to Jasper

From Lake Louise, we continued our journey north on the legendary Icefields Parkway, one of the most scenic drives in the world.

Bow Lake & Crowfoot Glacier, Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

Our first stop was Bow Lake, a pristine alpine lake surrounded by jagged peaks and the Crowfoot Glacier, which looked like a giant frozen claw gripping the mountainside. The reflections on the lake were surreal, and we spent some time just taking it all in.

Crowfoot Glacier, Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

Crowfoot Glacier, perched above Bow Lake in Banff National Park, Alberta, is one of the striking remnants of the Ice Age that has fascinated visitors for decades. Named for its original resemblance to a three-toed crow’s foot, the glacier has lost one of its "toes" due to retreating ice caused by climate change. Despite its shrinking size, the glacier remains a stunning sight, with its gleaming ice cascading down rugged cliffs against a backdrop of jagged peaks. Easily visible from the Icefields Parkway, Crowfoot Glacier offers a vivid reminder of the dynamic forces shaping the Canadian Rockies and the pressing need to protect these fragile natural wonders.

Bow Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

Bow Lake, a shimmering gem along the Icefields Parkway in Alberta, is a tranquil haven surrounded by towering peaks and glacial beauty. Fed by the Bow Glacier, this alpine lake boasts a striking turquoise hue that changes with the sunlight, making it a photographer’s dream. Framed by rugged mountains like Crowfoot Mountain and Wapta Icefield, the lake offers breathtaking views and serene hiking trails, such as the Bow Glacier Falls trail.

Bow Lake, Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada

Bow Lake's calm waters reflect the surrounding landscape like a natural mirror, creating a peaceful atmosphere perfect for nature lovers. Whether you stop for a picnic or simply to soak in the scenery, Bow Lake is a must-see destination in the Canadian Rockies.

Saskatchewan River Crossing, Icefields Parkway, Alberta, Canada

Crossing the Saskatchewan River, we were awestruck by its glacial blue waters rushing through the valley. The Saskatchewan is a sprawling waterway that winds its way through the heart of the Canadian Prairies, weaving together history, ecology, and breathtaking landscapes. Formed by the confluence of North Saskatchewan River and South Saskatchewan River, it stretches over 550 kilometers, eventually feeding into Lake Winnipeg. This mighty river system has been a lifeline for centuries, serving Indigenous peoples, fur traders, and settlers as a vital route and resource. Today, its waters support diverse ecosystems, from lush riparian zones to wetlands teeming with wildlife. Whether you are paddling its currents or enjoying the scenic beauty along its banks, the Saskatchewan River remains a symbol of Canada's natural and cultural heritage.

Further along, the Weeping Wall, a sheer rock face with cascading waterfalls, was a showstopper. We then came up on the Big Bend on Icefields Parkway - a dramatic, spiraling stretch of road that feels like a masterpiece of mountain engineering. Situated near Big Bend Peak and just before the cascading beauty of Panther Falls, this sweeping loop ascends sharply as it hugs the contours of the rugged terrain.

Big Bend loop, Icefields Parkway

As you navigate the curve, the road seems to unravel in perfect harmony with the towering peaks and lush alpine meadows that surround it. The Big Bend offers one of the most breathtaking viewpoints on the Parkway, where stopping at the pullout rewards travelers with panoramic vistas of jagged summits and the glacier-carved valley below. The sheer scale of the landscape, combined with the elegant arc of the roadway, creates a moment where nature and human ingenuity seem to converge seamlessly.

Big Bend loop, Icefields Parkway

Nearby, we took a short walk to Panther Falls, where the roaring water and misty air refreshed our senses.

As we approached the Columbia Icefield, the landscape became even more dramatic. The Columbia Icefield in Banff National Park is like stepping onto another planet - an icy, sparkling world carved by time and nature’s raw power. This massive sheet of ice, covering roughly 230 square kilometers, is nestled high in the Canadian Rockies, straddling the boundary between Banff National Park and Jasper National Park. It is one of the largest icefields in North America, feeding eight glaciers, including the famous Athabasca Glacier, which we actually walk on next.

Columbia Icefield

Imagine standing on ice that’s hundreds of meters thick and thousands of years old, with the crisp mountain air hitting your cheeks and jagged peaks towering all around. The colors are surreal: deep blue skies, glistening white snow, and silvery glacial streams snaking down the valleys. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel incredibly small and awe-struck at the same time.

Columbia Icefield

Geologically, the Columbia Icefield is a living record of the Ice Age, formed over 10,000 years ago. Its glaciers have shaped the landscape, carving deep U-shaped valleys and leaving behind moraines - those rocky ridges you see along the glacier’s edge.

Columbia Icefield

Historically, this icefield has been a beacon for adventurers and explorers, like Norman Collie and J. Norman James, who mapped the region in the late 1800s. The area also holds deep cultural significance for Indigenous peoples, including the Stoney Nakoda and other First Nations, who have long understood the glaciers as sacred, life-giving sources of water and energy.

Columbia Icefield

Today, the Icefield draws visitors from around the world, offering a mix of adventure and reflection. Whether you are riding an Ice Explorer onto the glacier or just gazing from afar, the Columbia Icefield isn’t just a destination - it’s an unforgettable experience that connects you to the raw, epic beauty of our planet.

We stopped next to explore the Athabasca Glacier, walking out onto its icy expanse with crampons to feel the raw power of this ancient ice. It was humbling to stand on something millions of years old, surrounded by the towering peaks of the Canadian Rockies.

Athabasca Glacier

The Athabasca Glacier, nestled in the Canadian Rockies' Columbia Icefield, is a bit like nature’s treadmill - it keeps moving, but you will never catch it! This massive sheet of ice has been creeping downhill for thousands of years, but here’s the catch: it’s shrinking faster than a guilty kid hiding a half-eaten cookie.

Athabasca Glacier

Over the last century, it’s lost more than half its volume, retreating about 5 meters (16 feet) every year. If glaciers could talk, this one might sigh and say, “I’m melting here, people!”

Athabasca Glacier

Geologically speaking, the Athabasca Glacier is part of a frozen family that’s been around since the last Ice Age, carving valleys and leaving behind stunning scenery that tourists flock to see today. But it’s not just a postcard-worthy spot; it's also been a dramatic backdrop in culture.

Athabasca Glacier, Columbia Icefield, Canada

Alistair MacLean’s novel Ice Station Zebra may not directly reference the glacier, but the book's chilling tension and icy landscapes echo the harsh beauty of this frozen titan.

Visitors to Athabasca Glacier travel on Ice Explorers which are large, special custom-built vehicles specifically designed to handle the challenging terrain of the glacier. They are equipped with oversized tires to provide traction on the ice and snow and powerful engines to navigate the steep inclines and uneven surfaces of the glacier. The elevated chassis is raised to provide clearance over the ice and snow. The Ice Explorers can accommodate a significant number of passengers, allowing for group tours, offering a unique and exciting way for visitors to experience the grandeur of the Athabasca Glacier.

Ice Explorers on Athabasca Glacier

Indigenous peoples, like the Stoney Nakoda, have long respected the glacier, calling it a sacred place. Today, while visitors can hop on a giant snow coach to explore it, they’re also reminded to tread lightly - both for safety and to honor its slow, vanishing story.

We continued driving west on the Icefields Parkway through the Sunwapta Valley. Banff National Park merged into Jasper National Park somewhere right here. It was like stepping into a living postcard - only the views keep changing, and you get to be the lucky driver in the frame. This stretch of road winds through some of the most jaw-dropping scenery in the Canadian Rockies, where rugged peaks stand like sentinels, glaciers sparkle in the sunlight, and waterfalls tumble dramatically down sheer cliffs.

Icefields Parkway at Sunwapta Valley near Mount Smythe

As we cruise along, the Sunwapta River runs alongside, its turquoise waters a vivid contrast to the dark evergreen forests. We get lucky and spot some wildlife - elk grazing calmly by the roadside and a curious mountain goat perched on an impossible ledge.

Icefields Parkway at Sunwapta Valley near Mount Smythe

The air smells crisp and piney, and with every curve, there’s another breathtaking vista waiting to steal your attention. It’s tempting to stop every few minutes for photos, but honestly, no camera can do this justice. Whether it’s the golden light of sunrise or the fiery hues of sunset, the Icefields Parkway in the Sunwapta Valley delivers the kind of beauty that stays with you long after the drive is over.

View from Icefields Pkwy between Tangle Creek Falls and Stutfield Glacier, Jasper National Park

Other highlights along the Icefields Parkway included Tangle Creek Falls, a multi-tiered waterfall right off the road, and the incredible Stutfield Glacier, shimmering in the afternoon sun.

Tangle Creek Falls is a hidden gem along the Icefields Parkway, offering a refreshing escape from the usual sightseeing hustle. This cascading waterfall tumbles down a rocky cliff face, creating a mesmerizing display of water, mist, and rainbows. A short, easy trail leads us right to the base of the falls, where we can feel the cool spray on our faces.

Tangle Creek Falls, Icefields Pkwy, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada

Legend has it that mischievous sprites and playful fairies make their home amongst the ferns and moss near Tangle Creek Falls. We keep an eye out for shimmering wings and mischievous laughter as we explore the area - maybe we will even spot a rare glimpse of these mythical creatures! Whether you believe in fairies or not, the enchanting atmosphere of Tangle Creek Falls is sure to captivate your imagination.

Stutfield Glacier, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada

The massive ice flow of Stutfield Glacier, named after the intrepid explorer J. Norman Collie, is a sight to behold. While you can't climb it directly, you can get some incredible views from viewpoints along the parkway. Imagine yourself in Collie's boots, gazing out at this icy giant. You might even spot some mountain goats making their way across the slopes below.

Stutfield Glacier, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada

Stutfield Glacier is a bit of a mystery. Tucked away in a remote corner of Jasper National Park, it's less crowded than some of the other glaciers along the Icefields Parkway. This makes it a perfect spot for those seeking a bit of tranquility.

Stutfield Glacier, Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada

We take a moment to truly appreciate the scale of this natural wonder. We listen to the distant rumble of ice shifting, and feel the crisp mountain air on our face. It's a truly unforgettable experience.

Bears of the Rocky Mountains

Driving along the Icefields Parkway in Alberta, Canada, offers a thrilling chance to see some of the region’s most iconic wildlife: bears!

Black Bear, Icefields Pkwy

The parkway, stretching between Jasper and Banff National Parks, is home to both black bears and grizzly bears, often spotted foraging near the roadside or ambling through lush meadows.

Black Bear, Icefields Pkwy

Black bears, smaller and ranging in colors from black to cinnamon, are agile climbers, while the larger grizzlies, identified by their distinctive shoulder hump and long claws, exude raw power and majesty.

Black Bear, Icefields Pkwy

Observing these incredible creatures from a safe distance is an unforgettable experience, reminding travelers of the wild beauty that defines the Canadian Rockies.

Evening Arrival in Jasper

By evening, we reached Jasper, a quaint mountain town in Alberta nestled deep in the Rockies. The sun was setting, casting golden light over the peaks. After a quick dinner at a local café, we started our journey back to Canmore on the Icefields Parkway, retracing the stunning route under a canopy of stars.

Back to Canmore: A Night to Reflect

We arrived in Canmore late that night, tired but exhilarated. The day had been filled with unparalleled beauty and adventure. Sitting on our balcony, we gazed at the stars above, reliving every moment of the day.

Morning in Banff: A Charming Mountain Town

Banff, Alberta, Canada

After breakfast in Canmore, we headed to the heart of Banff, a picture-perfect mountain town straight out of a postcard. The streets buzzed with a mix of locals, hikers, and visitors like us, all soaking in the charm.

Banff, Alberta, Canada

We strolled through the Banff town center, exploring boutiques, souvenir shops and quaint cafés. The surrounding peaks seemed to hug the town, adding a touch of magic to everything.

An Equestrian Adventure: Horseback Ride along Bow River

Banff Bow River Horse Ride

Next, we made our way to the Banff Trail Riders Horse Stables, where we saddled up for a horseback tour of Banff’s incredible landscapes, especially along the Bow River. The river isn't just a scenic beauty; it's a lifeline for the town. It provides opportunities for kayaking, canoeing, and fly fishing, attracting adventure seekers from around the world. Whether you're an avid angler casting a line, a kayaker navigating the rapids, or simply a passerby enjoying the scenery, the Bow River adds a touch of magic to the Banff experience. It's a place where the rhythm of nature blends seamlessly with the pulse of a vibrant town, creating a truly unforgettable experience.

Banff Bow River Horse Ride

Riding along winding trails along the Bow River, we were treated to sweeping views of turquoise waters, rugged peaks, and dense forests. The Bow River, a vibrant ribbon of turquoise water, carves its way through the heart of Banff, Canada, offering a picturesque backdrop for the charming town.

Bow River view from horseback, Banff, Alberta, Canada

As your horse trots the river path, the sound of rushing water is a constant companion, a soothing lullaby to the bustling town life.

Bow River view from horseback, Banff, Alberta, Canada

The riverbank, adorned with lush greenery and vibrant wildflowers, provides a perfect setting for a leisurely horse ride.