The iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, a 14th-century stone church standing guard at 2,170 meters above sea level near Stepantsminda.

Georgia, a land steeped in history and dramatic beauty, called to me. My adventure began in Tbilisi, the vibrant capital, but my heart yearned for the whispers of the Caucasus Mountains. These mountains aren't just big hills—they're the geologic crumple zone where tectonic plates have been having a slow-motion fistfight for millions of years, pushing up peaks that scrape the sky. It’s the kind of place that makes you feel very small and very alive at the same time.

Fuel for the journey: Shotis Puri, a canoe-shaped bread, being baked in a traditional Toné oven. The dough is slapped onto the hot clay walls—no pans needed.

You can't tackle the Georgian Military Highway on an empty stomach. Before heading north, I grabbed some shotis puri—that iconic canoe-shaped bread that's baked by slapping dough onto the scorching walls of a toné, a clay oven that looks like a well. It’s simple, delicious, and has been Georgian road trip fuel for centuries. Carbs are a climber's best friend.

With a rented car and a spirit of exploration, I embarked on a road trip towards the Verkhnii Lars border with Russia (MAP), a route brimming with cultural gems and breathtaking scenery.

Zhinvali Reservoir: A Tranquil Tapestry

My first stop was the Zhinvali Reservoir, a glassy expanse nestled amidst rolling green hills. Driving out of Tbilisi, the urban chaos melts away fast, replaced by the kind of greenery that makes you want to roll down the windows and breathe deeply, even if the air is trying to freeze your nose hairs in April.

The Zhinvali Reservoir, a massive artificial lake created in 1986 that provides hydroelectric power and water to Tbilisi.

The Zhinvali Reservoir is a beautiful artificial lake located on the Aragvi River in the Caucasus Mountains, Georgia. It was created in 1986 with the construction of the Zhinvali Dam to provide hydroelectric power and drinking water to the Georgian capital. This lake is a classic example of humans reshaping the landscape—what was once valley is now a deep, reflective basin that perfectly mirrors the sky.

The reservoir is a popular tourist destination, known for its stunning scenery and historical landmarks. Visitors can enjoy swimming, boating and fishing in the clear blue waters. The surrounding mountains offer opportunities for hiking and horseback riding.

One of the most interesting features of the Zhinvali Reservoir is the 12th-century Church of the Cross, which is submerged in water for half the year. During the winter months, when the water level drops, the top of the church emerges from the water, creating a truly unique sight. It’s like a secret the lake keeps, only revealing it when the weather turns cold.

As I gazed at its reflective surface, I couldn't help but be reminded of the legendary story of Anuko of Anchiskhati, a star-crossed lover who drowned herself in these very waters. The melancholic beauty of the place seemed to echo her tragic fate. Georgian folklore is full of these dramatic tales—love, betrayal, and a lot of throwing oneself into bodies of water. It adds a layer of poetic sadness to an already moody landscape.

The Meeting Point of Waters: Where Black and White Aragvi Collide

Continuing onwards, I reached the confluence of the Black and White Aragvi rivers. Here, the contrasting waters swirled together, a visual metaphor for the rich tapestry of cultures that Georgia embodies. It’s a geological poetry slam where two rivers with different personalities decide to move in together.

The famous confluence of the Black and White Aragvi rivers near Pasanauri. The color difference comes from mineral content and sediment.

The Black and White Aragvi refers to the confluence of two rivers, the White Aragvi (Tetri Aragvi) and the Black Aragvi (Shavi Aragvi), located near the village of Pasanauri, Georgia. These two rivers are named for the distinct colorations of their waters. The White Aragvi gets its milky, light hue from glacial "flour"—superfine rock particles ground by glaciers upstream. The Black Aragvi is darker due to organic matter and different minerals picked up from the forested slopes it drains. It's less "good vs. evil" and more "geology vs. biology."

While the sight is often described as the waters not mixing, creating a stark contrast, this isn't entirely accurate. The difference in color is more due to the varying mineral content and flow rates of the rivers. They eventually do mix, but the meeting point creates a beautiful visual display, especially when viewed from above. Think of it as nature's lazy river where two currents are still figuring out their relationship.

A local legend associates the rivers with a story of star-crossed lovers. The tale goes that two sisters, one fair-haired and one dark-haired, fell for the same man. In their grief, they turned into these two rivers, forever flowing together but never truly becoming one. It’s the kind of story that makes you look at a river and see a soap opera.

There's a small observation deck with an information board and a statue of deer marking the spot where the rivers meet. This is a popular stop along the Georgian Military Highway.

The confluence of the Black and White Aragvi was a powerful reminder of the country's position at the crossroads of Europe and Asia. Georgia has been a cultural blender for millennia, and these rivers are a liquid metaphor for that history.

A Taste of Nature's Bounty: The Natural Sparkling Spring near Ganisi

Further along the route, a detour led me to a natural marvel – a sparkling spring hidden near the village of Ganisi. I knelt down to fill my water bottle from the icy-cold stream, the effervescence dancing on my tongue. This wasn't Perrier; this was the real deal, carbonated by Mother Earth herself. It tasted like cold, fizzy rocks, and it was fantastic.

A natural mineral spring near Ganisi. The fizz comes from dissolved carbon dioxide gas deep underground—nature's soda stream.

There are many natural mineral water springs located throughout Georgia, some of which have natural carbonation. These springs are often undeveloped and not well-known to tourists. The fizz happens because water percolates through limestone rocks deep underground, picking up carbon dioxide gas created by geological processes. When it finds a crack to the surface, it bursts out like a freshly opened can of pop. Georgia sits on a geological hotspot, making it a paradise for free, fancy water.

It was a refreshing pause, a moment to savor the pure, unadulterated taste of nature's bounty. It also saved me a few Lari on bottled water. Pro tip: always have an empty bottle in the car for these surprise hydration stations.

Gudauri: A Panorama Fit for Royalty

As I climbed higher into the mountains, the landscape transformed into a dramatic vista. Lush valleys gave way to snow-capped peaks and the air grew crisp and cool. Reaching Gudauri, a popular ski resort, I was rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views. The road here is a masterpiece of Soviet engineering, clinging to the side of mountains with the kind of casual bravery that makes you grateful for guardrails.

Gudauri, a major ski resort at about 2,200 meters. In summer, it's a launchpad for paragliders and a viewpoint for the rest of us.

Gudauri, Georgia boasts some of the most breathtaking panoramic views in the Caucasus Mountains. The crown jewel of Gudauri's panoramas is the majestic Caucasus Mountain Range itself. Towering peaks pierce the sky, with snow-capped summits creating a dramatic and unforgettable scene. This is young, angry mountain territory, geologically speaking, which is why the peaks are so sharp and dramatic.

Perched on a cliff overlooking Devil's Valley, the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument offers a sweeping vista of the surrounding mountains. The contrasting colors of the monument's mosaics add a unique touch to the scene. Built in 1983 to celebrate the (then) friendship between Soviet Georgia and Russia, it now stands as a somewhat ironic relic. The views, however, are timeless.

In the winter, Gudauri transforms into a skier's paradise. The ski runs themselves provide incredible panoramic views as you make your way down the Ski Slopes.

During the summer months, Gudauri's meadows come alive with wildflowers, creating a vibrant tapestry of color against the backdrop of the mountains. It’s also a hotspot for paragliding. Watching people run off the side of a mountain with a colorful parachute really puts your own life choices into perspective.

Beyond these specific viewpoints, anywhere in Gudauri with a clear view will reward you with a stunning panorama. Whether you're enjoying a meal on a restaurant terrace, relaxing by a hotel window, or hiking a mountain trail, Gudauri's natural beauty will leave you breathless. And not just because of the altitude.

Here, amidst the majestic peaks, I imagined Georgian royalty traversing these very paths on horseback, their cloaks billowing in the mountain wind. More likely, they were just trying to get from one fortress to another without freezing, but it’s nice to romanticize it.

Gergeti Trinity Church: A Beacon of Faith

The highlight of my journey was undoubtedly the Gergeti Trinity Church. This 14th-century architectural marvel perched atop a hilltop seemed to pierce the heavens. Hiking up to the church, I felt a sense of reverence wash over me. The path is steep and the air is thin, but every panting breath is worth it. It’s a pilgrimage that even atheists can appreciate for the sheer aesthetic payoff.

Up close with Gergeti Trinity Church. The stone walls are over half a meter thick, built to withstand avalanches and invaders alike.

The Gergeti Trinity Church, also known as Holy Trinity Church, is a popular landmark near the village of Stepantsminda (previously Kazbegi) in Georgia. It's a beautiful 14th-century church perched atop a mountain at a staggering elevation of 7,120 feet, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape. That's higher than most commercial airplanes fly during takeoff, which explains why you might feel light-headed.

The church's isolated location adds to its mystique. You can hike up a mountain trail for stunning panoramic views or take a 4WD vehicle to reach the church. The hike takes about 1.5 to 2 hours from Stepantsminda. I recommend walking unless your knees have a personal vendetta against you. The 4x4s are usually old Soviet-era UAZ vans that look like they've been to hell and back, which adds to the adventure.

Gergeti Trinity Church is a classic example of a Georgian cross-cupola church, featuring a distinctive cross-shaped design. The church itself is relatively small, but its setting and history make it a popular pilgrimage site and tourist destination. The design is all about harmony and proportion, a quiet, sturdy statement of faith in a very hostile environment.

The exact date of construction is unknown, but historians believe it was built sometime in the 14th century. The church was used as a safekeeping place for religious relics during times of danger, including, famously, the cross of St. Nino, who converted Georgia to Christianity. When invaders came, the priests would haul the treasures up here where it was easier to defend than a valley monastery.

As mentioned before, the views from Gergeti Trinity Church are truly exceptional. You'll have a panoramic vista of the Caucasus Mountains, with Mount Kazbek, Georgia's third-highest peak, dominating the background. Kazbek is a dormant stratovolcano, part of the same volcanic zone as Mount Elbrus. On a clear day, its double summit and glacier are so crisp they look Photoshopped.

If you're planning a trip to Georgia, Gergeti Trinity Church is a must-see. Just be prepared for the hike or arrange transportation beforehand, as it's not easily accessible. And bring a jacket. Even in summer, the wind at the top has a personal vendetta against warmth.

The views from the top were nothing short of spectacular, with Mount Kazbek standing sentinel in the distance.

The Verkhnii Lars Border: A Gateway to Another World

Finally, I reached the Verkhnii Lars border with Russia. Standing at the frontier, a sense of history hung heavy in the air. This very passage has witnessed countless travelers, traders and even armies throughout the centuries. The Georgian Military Highway, which you've been driving on, was originally carved out in the 19th century by the Russian Empire to move troops and control the region. It’s a road built for geopolitics, which now mostly serves tourists and truckers.

The Verkhnii Lars (or Zemo Larsi) border crossing. It's the only legal land crossing between Georgia and Russia, opened in 2010.

The Verkhnii Lars Border Crossing, also known as Kazbegi-Verkhnii Lars crossing point, is the only land border checkpoint between Georgia and Russia. It's situated on the Georgian Military Highway, connecting Kazbegi, Georgia to Vladikavkaz, Russia. There are no other land border crossings between Georgia and Russia. This makes it a crucial, and sometimes congested, logistical choke point. The line of trucks can stretch for kilometers, with drivers waiting for days. For them, this isn't a scenic overlook; it's the office.

It was a poignant reminder of the ever-shifting borders and the dynamic tapestry of Eurasia. One moment you're in Georgia, a country fiercely looking towards Europe, and a few meters away is Russia, a continent unto itself. It's a place where politics feels as tangible as the mountains.

A Culinary Gem: Khinkali at Tsanareti Restaurant

Exhausted but exhilarated, I made my way back south, stopping at the Tsanareti restaurant in Arsha for a well-deserved meal. Here, I indulged in a plate of steaming khinkali, the quintessential Georgian dish. After a day of mountain air, your body screams for calories, and khinkali is the answer. They are dumplings, but to call them just dumplings is like calling the Caucasus "some nice hills"—a tragic understatement.

Khinkali, the glorious Georgian dumpling. The proper way to eat them is to hold the "topknot," take a bite to suck out the broth, then eat the rest, leaving the doughy twist on the plate as a tally.

These handmade dumplings, filled with meat and spices, were a delicious culmination of my cultural immersion. As I savored each bite, prepared the traditional way, I knew this was a taste I would never forget. The filling is usually a mix of beef and pork (sometimes with herbs like cilantro), and the magic is in the broth trapped inside. You have to eat them carefully, or you'll wear that broth. It's a delicious, messy sacrament.

This journey from Tbilisi to the Verkhny Lars border was more than just a scenic drive; it was a voyage through time and culture. From the tranquil beauty of Zhinvali Reservoir to the architectural wonder of Gergeti Trinity Church, each stop unveiled a piece of Georgia's fascinating story. And as I crossed paths with nature's bounty and local culinary traditions, I left a part of my heart nestled amidst the majestic Caucasus Mountains.

Next: A Day Trip Through Kakheti: Wine, History, and Georgian Charm | Georgia the Country in Europe.