The Republic of Georgia: A Road Trip from Tbilisi to Russia Border via Zhinvali Reservoir, Black and White Aragvi Rivers, Sparkling Spring near Ganisi, Panoramic Gudauri, Stunning Gergeti Trinity Church and Authentic Khinkali at Arsha

by - April 21, 2021

Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), Georgia, Europe
Gergeti Trinity Church

Georgia, a land steeped in history and dramatic beauty, called to me. My adventure began in Tbilisi, the vibrant capital, but my heart yearned for the whispers of the Caucasus Mountains.

Traditional Georgian Shotis Puri (შოთის პური) Flat Bread being baked in a Toné (თონე) Kilt Oven in Tbilisi
Traditional Georgian Shotis Puri (შოთის პური) Flat Bread being baked in a Toné (თონე) Clay Oven in Tbilisi

With a rented car and a spirit of exploration, I embarked on a road trip towards the Verkhnii Lars border with Russia (MAP), a route brimming with cultural gems and breathtaking scenery.



Watch: Georgia (Europe) Road Trip from Tbilisi to Russian Border via Gudauri & Kazbegi (Youtube)


Zhinvali Reservoir: A Tranquil Tapestry

My first stop was the Zhinvali Reservoir, a glassy expanse nestled amidst rolling green hills.

Zhinvali Reservoir, Georgia, Europe
Zhinvali Reservoir

The Zhinvali Reservoir is a beautiful artificial lake located on the Aragvi River in the Caucasus Mountains, Georgia. It was created in 1986 with the construction of the Zhinvali Dam to provide hydroelectric power and drinking water to the Georgian capital,

The reservoir is a popular tourist destination, known for its stunning scenery and historical landmarks. Visitors can enjoy swimming, boating and fishing in the clear blue waters. The surrounding mountains offer opportunities for hiking and horseback riding.

One of the most interesting features of the Zhinvali Reservoir is the 12th-century Church of the Cross, which is submerged in water for half the year. During the winter months, when the water level drops, the top of the church emerges from the water, creating a truly unique sight.

As I gazed at its reflective surface, I couldn't help but be reminded of the legendary story of Anuko of Anchiskhati, a star-crossed lover who drowned herself in these very waters. The melancholic beauty of the place seemed to echo her tragic fate.

The Meeting Point of Waters: Where Black and White Aragvi Collide

Continuing onwards, I reached the confluence of the Black and White Aragvi rivers. Here, the contrasting waters swirled together, a visual metaphor for the rich tapestry of cultures that Georgia embodies.

Black and White Aragvi River Confluence, Georgia, Europe
Black and White Aragvi

The Black and White Aragvi refers to the confluence of two rivers, the White Aragvi (Tetri Aragvi) and the Black Aragvi (Shavi Aragvi), located near the village of Pasanauri, Georgia. These two rivers are named for the distinct colorations of their waters.

While the sight is often described as the waters not mixing, creating a stark contrast, this isn't entirely accurate. The difference in color is more due to the varying mineral content and flow rates of the rivers. They eventually do mix, but the meeting point creates a beautiful visual display, especially when viewed from above.

A local legend associates the rivers with a story of star-crossed lovers.

There's a small observation deck with an information board and a statue of deer marking the spot where the rivers meet. This is a popular stop along the Georgian Military Highway.

The confluence of the Black and White Aragvi was a powerful reminder of the country's position at the crossroads of Europe and Asia.

A Taste of Nature's Bounty: The Natural Sparkling Spring near Ganisi

Further along the route, a detour led me to a natural marvel – a sparkling spring hidden near the village of Ganisi. I knelt down to fill my water bottle from the icy-cold stream, the effervescence dancing on my tongue.

Natural Sparkling Spring, Georgia, Europe
Natural Sparkling Spring, Georgia, Europe

There are many natural mineral water springs located throughout Georgia, some of which have natural carbonation. These springs are often undeveloped and not well-known to tourists.

It was a refreshing pause, a moment to savor the pure, unadulterated taste of nature's bounty.

Gudauri: A Panorama Fit for Royalty

As I climbed higher into the mountains, the landscape transformed into a dramatic vista. Lush valleys gave way to snow-capped peaks and the air grew crisp and cool. Reaching Gudauri, a popular ski resort, I was rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views.

Gudauri, Georgia, Europe
Gudauri

Gudauri, Georgia boasts some of the most breathtaking panoramic views in the Caucasus Mountains. The crown jewel of Gudauri's panoramas is the majestic Caucasus Mountain Range itself. Towering peaks pierce the sky, with snow-capped summits creating a dramatic and unforgettable scene.

Perched on a cliff overlooking Devil's Valley, the Russian-Georgian Friendship Monument offers a sweeping vista of the surrounding mountains. The contrasting colors of the monument's mosaics add a unique touch to the scene.

In the winter, Gudauri transforms into a skier's paradise. The ski runs themselves provide incredible panoramic views as you make your way down the Ski Slopes.

During the summer months, Gudauri's meadows come alive with wildflowers, creating a vibrant tapestry of color against the backdrop of the mountains.

Beyond these specific viewpoints, anywhere in Gudauri with a clear view will reward you with a stunning panorama. Whether you're enjoying a meal on a restaurant terrace, relaxing by a hotel window, or hiking a mountain trail, Gudauri's natural beauty will leave you breathless.

Here, amidst the majestic peaks, I imagined Georgian royalty traversing these very paths on horseback, their cloaks billowing in the mountain wind.

Gergeti Trinity Church: A Beacon of Faith

The highlight of my journey was undoubtedly the Gergeti Trinity Church. This 14th-century architectural marvel perched atop a hilltop seemed to pierce the heavens. Hiking up to the church, I felt a sense of reverence wash over me.

Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi (Stepantsminda), Georgia, Europe
Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi

The Gergeti Trinity Church, also known as Holy Trinity Church, is a popular landmark near the village of Stepantsminda (previously Kazbegi) in Georgia. It's a beautiful 14th-century church perched atop a mountain at a staggering elevation of 7,120 feet, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape.

The church's isolated location adds to its mystique. You can hike up a mountain trail for stunning panoramic views or take a 4WD vehicle to reach the church.

Gergeti Trinity Church is a classic example of a Georgian cross-cupola church, featuring a distinctive cross-shaped design. The church itself is relatively small, but its setting and history make it a popular pilgrimage site and tourist destination.

The exact date of construction is unknown, but historians believe it was built sometime in the 14th century. The church was used as a safekeeping place for religious relics during times of danger.

As mentioned before, the views from Gergeti Trinity Church are truly exceptional. You'll have a panoramic vista of the Caucasus Mountains, with Mount Kazbek, Georgia's third-highest peak, dominating the background.

If you're planning a trip to Georgia, Gergeti Trinity Church is a must-see. Just be prepared for the hike or arrange transportation beforehand, as it's not easily accessible.

The views from the top were nothing short of spectacular, with Mount Kazbek standing sentinel in the distance.  

The Verkhnii Lars Border: A Gateway to Another World

Finally, I reached the Verkhnii Lars border with Russia. Standing at the frontier, a sense of history hung heavy in the air. This very passage has witnessed countless travelers, traders and even armies throughout the centuries.

Verkhnii Lars Border Crossing from Georgia to Russia
Verkhnii Lars Border Crossing from Georgia to Russia

The Verkhnii Lars Border Crossing, also known as Kazbegi-Verkhnii Lars crossing point, is the only land border checkpoint between Georgia and Russia. It's situated on the Georgian Military Highway, connecting Kazbegi, Georgia to Vladikavkaz, Russia. There are no other land border crossings between Georgia and Russia.

It was a poignant reminder of the ever-shifting borders and the dynamic tapestry of Eurasia.

A Culinary Gem: Khinkali at Tsanareti Restaurant

Exhausted but exhilarated, I made my way back south, stopping at the Tsanareti restaurant in Arsha for a well-deserved meal. Here, I indulged in a plate of steaming khinkali, the quintessential Georgian dish. 

Khinkali
Khinkali

These handmade dumplings, filled with meat and spices, were a delicious culmination of my cultural immersion. As I savored each bite, prepared the traditional way,  I knew this was a taste I would never forget.

This journey from Tbilisi to the Verkhny Lars border was more than just a scenic drive; it was a voyage through time and culture. From the tranquil beauty of Zhinvali Reservoir to the architectural wonder of Gergeti Trinity Church, each stop unveiled a piece of Georgia's fascinating story. And as I crossed paths with nature's bounty and local culinary traditions, I left a part of my heart nestled amidst the majestic Caucasus Mountains.


Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and  Bard.


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