Panoramic view of the Greater Caucasus Mountains and Alazani Valley from Bodbe's St. Nino's Convent Cathedral

Hello, travel friends! We returned from the Russia border to Tbilisi yesterday. 🍇 Today, we’re taking you on a lovely day trip from Tbilisi through the Kakheti Wine Region of Georgia (not the US state of Atlanta fame, but Georgia the country on eastern Black Sea). It’s an easy drive and packed with stunning views, delicious wine and a touch of history. Here is a map. So, let’s hop in our car and get started exploring more of Sakartvelo!

Morning Drive from Tbilisi to Kakheti

Road winding through the Kakheti countryside with vineyards on either side

We set off early from Tbilisi, excited to explore the famous wine region of Kakheti. The drive itself is beautiful, with vineyards stretching out on both sides of the road. Kakheti is known as the heart of Georgian winemaking, a tradition that dates back over 8,000 years. The region’s climate is perfect for growing grapes, with hot summers and mild winters.

Geologically, this valley is a gift of the tectonic dance between the Greater and Lesser Caucasus ranges. The Alazani Valley, which we're heading into, is essentially a giant sediment bowl filled with rich alluvial soil—perfect for grapevines to sink their roots deep and sip on mineral-rich groundwater. It's like nature's own premium wine subscription service.

A flock of sheep causing a charming traffic jam on the road to Kakheti

And then, the true rulers of the road appeared: sheep. A whole fluffy parliament of them, ambling across the asphalt without a care in the world. This isn't a traffic jam; it's a woolly pedestrian crossing. It's a reminder that in Kakheti, life—and livestock—moves at its own wonderfully slow pace.

Tip: Start your journey early in the morning. You’ll beat the traffic (both car and sheep varieties) and have more time to enjoy each stop.

First Stop: KTW Winery in Patardzeuli

Exterior of KTW Winery in Patardzeuli, a traditional Georgian winery

Our first stop was the KTW Winery in Patardzeuli. KTW stands for "Kakhetian Traditional Winemaking". It’s one of the oldest and most respected wineries in Georgia. Here, we took a short tour of the facility and learned about the unique Georgian winemaking process called Qvevri.

The winery buildings themselves are often made from the same local stone and clay you find in the soil, blending into the landscape like they grew there. It's a beautiful example of vernacular architecture—built with what's at hand, for the purpose at hand: making incredible wine.

Rows of traditional Qvevri clay vessels buried underground at KTW Winery

This is where the magic happens. These aren't your average wine barrels. Qvevri are massive, egg-shaped clay pots, sometimes holding over 1,000 liters. They're coated with beeswax on the inside and buried up to their necks in the earth. This creates a perfectly stable, cool temperature for fermentation and aging. The shape isn't just for looks—it creates a natural convection current, constantly stirring the wine as it ferments. It's ancient bio-tech!

Close-up view of the thick clay walls and rim of a buried Qvevri

In Georgia, wine is made using these large clay vessels called qvevris, which are buried underground. This ancient method gives the wine a distinct flavor. We tasted several varieties, including Saperavi (a full-bodied red) and Rkatsiteli (a crisp white wine). The wines were delicious and we even bought a couple of bottles to take home.

Wine tasting session at KTW Winery with several glasses of different wines

Tasting wine made in qvevri is a unique experience. The whites are often amber or orange in color because the juice ferments with the grape skins, seeds, and stems (a method called "skin-contact"). This gives them a tannic structure and a complex, almost tea-like flavor you won't find in stainless steel tanks. It's bold, funky, and utterly delicious.

Bottles of KTW wine lined up on a shelf, ready for purchase

Cultural Insight: Georgians believe wine is a gift from the gods. It’s an important part of their culture and hospitality. If you’re offered wine in Georgia, it’s a gesture of friendship! According to local lore, when God was distributing land to the peoples of the world, the Georgians were too busy feasting and toasting (what a surprise) and arrived late. As an apology for the delay, God gave them the small but breathtakingly beautiful plot he had been saving for himself.

A traditional Georgian supra (feast) table setting at KTW Winery

Vineyards surrounding KTW Winery under a bright blue sky

Tip: Wine tasting is free, but it’s polite to buy a bottle or two. They make great gifts, too! Plus, you'll be supporting a tradition that's been keeping this valley delicious for millennia.

Exploring St. Nino’s Convent in Bodbe

Long shot of Bodbe's St. Nino's Convent Cathedral nestled on a green hillside

Next, we drove to Bodbe’s St. Nino’s Convent, about 20 minutes away. The convent is dedicated to St. Nino, who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. It’s a peaceful and spiritual place, set on a hillside with stunning views of the Alazani Valley below.

The location is no accident. It's built on a strategic promontory overlooking the valley, a common practice for important religious sites. It offered spiritual protection and, let's be honest, some of the best real estate views in Kakheti. The builders knew how to pick a spot.

Front facade of the stone cathedral with its distinctive Georgian arched entrance

We visited the small St. Nino’s Cathedral, a beautiful stone building surrounded by gardens. Inside, you can see old frescoes and icons. Many Georgians come here to pray and pay their respects to St. Nino. There is also a holy spring nearby, believed to have healing powers.

Tip: Dress modestly when visiting the convent. Women should cover their heads and both men and women should wear clothing that covers their knees and shoulders. They usually have scarves at the entrance you can borrow if you forget.

Ornate religious icons and frescoes inside St. Nino's Cathedral

The interior is dim, cool, and smells of incense and old stone. The frescoes, though faded, tell stories of saints and miracles. In Georgian Orthodox churches, there are no pews. People stand, reflecting the idea that worship is an active, engaged practice. It's a humbling and beautiful space.

The convent's gardens and walkways with the Alazani Valley in the background

History Fact: St. Nino was a Cappadocian woman who preached Christianity in Georgia. She is highly respected and many girls in Georgia are named "Nino" in her honor. Legend says she performed miracles with a cross made from vine branches, tying it with her own hair—a beautiful fusion of the coming faith with the land's ancient viticulture.

Pathway leading through the convent's peaceful and well-kept grounds

Detailed stone masonry and arched windows of the cathedral exterior

We are greeted by one of the numerous darling Caucasian Shepherd Dogs (Caucasian Ovcharka) at the gates of Bodbe's St. Nino's Convent Cathedral. These big, fluffy dogs roam the streets of Georgia. They look strong and maybe a little scary, but they're actually very friendly and well-looked after. You'll often see them walking alongside their owners or just lounging around, enjoying the sunshine. These dogs are very important to Georgian culture and are often used to guard homes and livestock.

This isn't just a pet; it's a living piece of Caucasian history. Bred over centuries to protect flocks from wolves and bears in the mountains, they are fiercely loyal and intelligent. Think of them as the fluffy, four-legged equivalent of the Sighnaghi Wall we'll see later—both are formidable Georgian defense systems.

A friendly Caucasian Shepherd Dog (Caucasian Ovcharka) lounging at the convent gates

The nearby St. Nino's Monastery offers more fantastic views of the valley and the distant mountains. We took a moment to relax here, appreciating the beauty of nature and the calm atmosphere.

Tip: This is a great spot for photography, especially during golden hour when the light is soft. The way the setting sun hits the valley and lights up the white stone of the convent is pure magic.

Sighnaghi: The City of Love

Colorful, balconied houses lining a cobblestone street in Sighnaghi

After Bodbe, we continued our drive to Sighnaghi, known as the "City of Love". It’s a small town but full of charm, with cobblestone streets, colorful houses and balconies with intricate wooden carvings. The town overlooks the Kakheti Valley, with the Caucasus Mountains as a stunning backdrop.

Why the "City of Love" nickname? It's partly because of the 24/7 wedding registry office (get hitched any time, day or night!), and partly because the entire place feels like a romantic movie set. With those views, it's easy to see why.

View from a Sighnaghi street overlooking the vast Alazani Valley

To the east of Sighnaghi, you will find the Greater Caucasus Mountains. Specifically, the town sits on the eastern foothills of the Gombori Range, which is part of the larger Caucasus Mountain system. These mountains aren't just pretty; they're weather-makers. They block cold air from the north and catch moisture from the Black Sea, creating the perfect microclimate for Kakheti's vineyards. It's a giant, rocky life-support system for wine.

Panoramic vista of the Alazani Valley with the Caucasus Mountains in the far distance

From Sighnaghi, you can see the Caucasus Mountains in the distance due to its position overlooking the Alazani Valley. The immediate mountain range near Sighnaghi is the Gombori Ridge which acts as a watershed between the Iori and Alazani valleys.

A quiet, sun-drenched alleyway in Sighnaghi with potted plants

A local woman selling traditional knitted goods and souvenirs on a Sighnaghi street

The Great Wall of Georgia (Sighnaghi Wall)

We started by walking along the Sighnaghi Wall, also called the Great Wall of Georgia in remembrence of the Great Wall of China. The wall dates back to the 18th century and was built by King Erekle II to protect the town from invaders.

King Erekle II was having a rough 18th century. With Persians, Ottomans, and various mountain clans eyeing the prosperous valley, he needed a "keep out" sign that meant business. So, he built a wall. A really, really long one.

A long stretch of the Sighnaghi Wall snaking along the hillside

One of the wall's defensive towers, offering panoramic lookout points

The Sighnaghi Wall stands as a formidable defensive structure. Constructed primarily from cobblestones and, in some sections, red brick, the wall stretches for several kilometers, encircling the charming town of Sighnaghi.

The materials tell a story. The cobblestones are local, hauled up from riverbeds. The red brick? That might have come from further afield, showing the importance of this project. They used what was strong and available. It's not delicate, but it didn't need to be. It needed to stop armies.

Close-up of the wall's stone and brick construction, showing its texture

View from on top of the wall, showing its width and the valley beyond

Its construction, dating back to the 18th century, presented significant engineering challenges, particularly in adapting to the hilly terrain. The wall's purpose was to protect the town and its inhabitants from invasions and attacks. Its strategic placement, along with its imposing height and fortified towers, made it a formidable barrier against potential threats.

Walking on it today, you realize it's more than a wall. It's a communal balcony for the entire town. Locals use it for evening strolls, kids play on it, and tourists gawk at the view. It's transitioned from a symbol of fear to one of community and shared space. Pretty cool evolution for a pile of rocks.

The wall integrating seamlessly with the natural hillside and vegetation

Panoramic shot along the length of the wall with towers visible in the distance

You can climb the towers for amazing panoramic views of the Alazani valley. The panorama is breathtaking, especially on a clear day.

Tip: Wear comfortable shoes. The streets are steep and the cobblestones can be slippery. Also, the steps up the towers are uneven and worn smooth by centuries of footsteps, so watch your step!

Lunch with a View in Sighnaghi

Stitched panoramic view of the Greater Caucasus Mountains from a Sighnaghi restaurant terrace

By now, we were hungry and ready for a feast. We chose a restaurant with a terrace overlooking the Kakheti Valley. The view was spectacular and the food was even better! We ordered a mix of traditional Georgian dishes.

Georgian cuisine is a feast for the senses, and eating it here feels like part of the landscape. The cheese in the khachapuri comes from sheep that graze on those mountains. The walnuts in the badrijani grow in the valley below. It's a true farm-to-terrace experience.

A traditional Georgian feast spread out on a restaurant table in Sighnaghi

Khachapuri: Cheese-filled bread that’s crispy on the outside and soft inside. The Adjarian version from the Black Sea coast comes with an egg baked in the middle, but here in Kakheti, it's more often the Imeretian style—like a cheesy, buttery flying saucer of deliciousness.

Khinkali: Juicy dumplings filled with meat or mushrooms. The trick is to eat them by holding the doughy "topknot," taking a small bite to suck out the broth, then devouring the rest. The topknot gets left on the plate—it's your dumpling-eating badge of honor.

Badrijani: Eggplant rolls with walnut paste, a local favorite. The walnut sauce, called *bazhe*, is a garlicky, coriander-spiced paste that's so good you'll want to eat it with a spoon.

Churchkhela: A sweet snack made of nuts dipped in thickened grape juice. They look like colorful candles and are often called "Georgian Snickers." They're energy bombs originally made for soldiers and shepherds.

The breathtaking lunch view of mountains and valley from the restaurant terrace

We paired the meal with a glass of local Saperavi wine. It was a perfect lunch—fresh, flavorful and filling.

Cultural Note: Georgians love to toast during meals. The toastmaster, or tamada, leads with poetic toasts, often about family, love and friendship. It’s a wonderful tradition that shows the warmth of Georgian hospitality. A meal without a toast is like a sky without stars—technically possible, but missing all the magic.

Tip: Try a little bit of everything. Georgian cuisine is diverse and full of unique flavors. And don't be shy—eating with your hands is not only accepted, it's often encouraged for dishes like khinkali!

Heading Back to Tbilisi

As the sun began to set, we got back in our car and started the drive back to Tbilisi.

The open highway leading from Sighnaghi back towards Tbilisi at dusk

The road was easy and scenic, passing through small villages and vineyards. We felt grateful for the wonderful experiences and beautiful places we had seen throughout the day. The setting sun painted the Caucasus in shades of pink and gold, a final, glorious toast from Kakheti.

Final Tips for Your Kakheti Day Trip:

Rent a Car: It’s the best way to explore at your own pace. The roads are good and the drive is enjoyable. Plus, you'll need space for all that wine you're going to buy!

Bring Cash: Many small shops and local restaurants do not accept credit cards. The Lari is the local currency, and having small bills is useful.

Stay Hydrated: It can get hot, especially in summer. Bring a bottle of water and wear sunscreen. Between the wine tasting and the sun, dehydration is the only villain in this fairy tale.

In conclusion, this day trip through Kakheti was a highlight of our time in Georgia. We tasted delicious wine, learned about ancient traditions and enjoyed stunning views of the countryside. If you’re visiting Tbilisi, we highly recommend taking a day to explore Kakheti. It’s a journey filled with culture, history and unforgettable moments.

End note: We will return to Georgia to launch our epic four-continent overland world tour exploring the ancient silk road. That story starts at "Georgia, Turkey, Greece into North Macedonia: Black Sea Dreams & Bosporus Crossings - Our Overland Journey from Asia to Europe".

Until next time,
The Vagabond Couple 👫💛