A field report by Velhugur Kamalsson & Hafliði Velhugursson (a playful translation of our names into Icelandic) from the actively erupting Fagradalsfjall Volcano and subsequently crawling the Raufarhólshellir Lava Tubes (thankfully quiet).

Fagradalsfjall Volcano lights up the night - first eruption in 800 years and it’s a real show-off.

⚠️ Update on Grindavík and Volcanic Activity

Historic Context: The field report below documents our expedition in June 2021 during the Fagradalsfjall eruption. At that time, the eruption was a rare, stable and "tourist-friendly" spectacle and the town of Grindavík served as a vibrant, safe and welcoming base for our travels.

Subsequent Situation: Since late 2023, the geological reality of the Reykjanes Peninsula has shifted dramatically. New volcanic fissures and seismic activity have led to the evacuation of Grindavík and significant challenges for the local community. The "friendly" lava fields we explored have been succeeded by more hazardous geological events nearby.

We have preserved this post as a time capsule of that unique moment in history - a tribute to the raw, ever-changing power of Iceland and the memory of the landscape as it was. While specific hiking trails or accommodations mentioned in this guide may currently be inaccessible, this story remains a tribute to the region's beauty.

For real-time safety information and current access restrictions, please strictly follow SafeTravel.is.

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Hello from The Vagabond Couple! In our last expedition to Iceland, we explored The Ultimate Iceland 360° Ring Road Trip Guide. Today, we want to share our unforgettable trip from Grindavík to the Fagradalsfjall volcano, a journey that was both thrilling and humbling. In addition, we visit the Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel and revisit the remarkable sights on the Golden Circle as well as the South Coast of Iceland. If you're planning your 2026 Iceland itinerary or a dedicated Iceland volcano tour, this is a must-see adventure, blending the raw power of nature with Iceland’s unique geology.

Fagradalsfjall Volcano: Where the Earth’s Crust Takes a Coffee Break

Starting Point: Grindavík - Not Just a Pit Stop for Gas and Fermented Shark

N1 gas station in Grindavík: fueling your rental and your soul with overpriced snacks.

Grindavík sits on the Reykjanes Peninsula, a burping, farting geothermal playground. Grindavík has been inhabited for centuries, with fishing forming the backbone of life here. Like many coastal Icelandic communities, its early history blends documented records with oral tradition and folklore.

Aðal-Braut (Main Road) fast food: where the hot dog comes with crunchy fried onions and a side of life-changing flavor.

The 2021 eruption added a new layer to Grindavík's history, which is marked by the harrowing 1627 Barbary Corsair raid. During this "Turkish Abduction" (Tyrkjaránið), Algerian pirates landed at nearby Hópsnes, capturing residents for the slave trade - a dark chapter preserved in local oral history. Today, the town's resilience is centered at Sjávarkvikan, the Resource Center, which details how Grindavík became the global hub for bacalao processing, utilizing a unique drying process influenced by the peninsula's specific salt-heavy air currents.

Locals often say they have learned to live with both the sea and the trembling land. This isn't just poetic; it's economic. Grindavík has long been one of the few harbors on the south coast capable of handling large trawlers, making it a powerhouse for saltfish (bacalao) production. For decades, the town has processed roughly 40% of Iceland's saltfish export, meaning your dinner in Portugal or Spain might have started its journey right here.

We lodged at Anita's Guest House, situated near the path to the Selatangar ruins. These black-stone remains of a medieval fishing station were used by fishermen until the 1880s. Local lore suggests the area is haunted by a malevolent ghost known as Tanga-Tómas, a farmer who, according to legend, terrorized the station and was eventually driven into the sea. This proximity to the "ghostly" ruins adds a layer of eerie silence to the coastal winds that buffet the guesthouse at night, making it a memorable stop on your Reykjanes Peninsula travel itinerary.

Anita's Guest House in Grindavík: where the hospitality is warm even when the wind is trying to freeze your eyebrows.

We also tried a traditional Icelandic moss tea, made from the lichen Cetraria islandica (Fjallagras). According to the Icelandic Institute of Natural History, this lichen has been used for centuries in folk medicine to soothe sore throats and digestive issues. Historically, it wasn't just a tea; during the hard centuries of the "Little Ice Age," Icelanders ground this lichen into flour to make bread and porridge when grain imports failed. You have to respect the cup you're drinking: Icelandic moss grows excruciatingly slowly - often less than 1 cm per year - so harvesting it is a practice in patience. It tastes like dirt, but in a wholesome, "I'm one with the tundra" sort of way.

Another cozy angle of Anita's Guest House - more blankets than a cloud factory, less wind than outside.

During the Cold War, nearby Keflavík was home to a major U.S. naval air station that played a strategic role in North Atlantic defense. Various communication facilities operated across the Reykjanes Peninsula, though detailed operational records remain limited.

US Navy radio towers near Grindavík - giant metal goalposts for submarine gossip and Cold War echoes.

The facility, known as NRTF Grindavík, operates one of the most powerful VLF (Very Low Frequency) transmitters in the North Atlantic. Its towering antenna array is used to communicate with submerged submarines, as VLF waves can penetrate seawater to depths of 20-40 meters. A little-known fact is that during the Cold War, this site was so critical for NATO's Atlantic defense that it had its own independent power supply to ensure "doomsday" operability, keeping the lines open even if the rest of the grid went dark.

Close-up of the antenna array. Rumor says you can hear Cold War secrets if you press your ear - but the fence might be electrified. Probably.

To reach Fagradalsfjall, from Grindavík you take Suðurstrandarvegur (Route 427) east. The parking lot changes with the volcano's mood, so check online. In June 2021, they'd set up a temporary lot that could handle hundreds of cars. It filled up by 10 AM. We got there at 8, feeling smug.

Temporary parking for Fagradalsfjall - a dusty field that saw more action in 2021 than in the previous thousand years.

Vagabond Tip: To snag a spot and beat the crowds, aim to arrive at the parking area by 8:00 AM. During the peak of the eruption in June 2021, the lot was often full by 9:30 AM. Also, check road.is for real-time road conditions - the gravel access road can be rough.

The Hike to Fagradalsfjall: Up, Up and Awe-some

The Fagradalsfjall trailhead: where optimism meets lava rock sharper than a Viking’s wit.

The Iceland volcano hike is moderate - about 4-6 km round trip, depending on which viewing spot is open. But don't let “moderate” fool you. The terrain is uneven, the wind tries to assassinate you and the smell of sulfur reminds you that you’re basically walking on top of a cosmic pimple.

Automated visitor counter on the Fagradalsfjall trail: keeping tabs on who becomes a permanent part of the lava field.

The Icelandic authorities set up people-counters on the trail. They're like the bouncers at nature's VIP event. “One in, one out. Enjoy the show, but don't get cooked.” There’s a website showing real-time numbers. It’s oddly comforting knowing that if you get lost, they know exactly how many idiots are still out there.

First glimpse of Fagradalsfjall’s lava flow: like God’s orange crayon melting down the mountain.

Geochemical studies suggest the magma for the Fagradalsfjall eruption showed geochemical signatures suggesting a relatively primitive mantle source compared to many recent Reykjanes intrusions. This deeper origin meant the lava was unusually hot - estimated around 1,150–1,200°C - and fluid, which is why it spread out in those mesmerizing, ropy pahoehoe flows instead of piling up into a steep cone. Icelandic geologists described it as like "tapping a new, deeper keg of Earth's brew."

Geological analysis by the University of Iceland confirmed that the Fagradalsfjall magma was remarkably "primitive," originating from a depth of nearly 17-20 kilometers. This represents the first time in approximately 7,000 years - since the era of the great Skjaldbreiður shield volcano - that such deep-seated, MgO-rich tholeiitic basalt has reached the surface on the Reykjanes Peninsula. This "hot-from-the-mantle" composition explains the lava’s unusually low viscosity and its metallic, silvery sheen upon cooling.

The Fagradalshraun lava field - black, jagged and fresh. Looks like the devil’s parking lot after a really bad day.

This new lava field has been officially named Fagradalshraun. In Iceland, you can't just name things willy-nilly; the local municipal council had to vote on the name, choosing it over other contenders like "Geldingadalshraun." It marks the first time in over 800 years that new rock has been added to this volcanic system. Scientists are watching it like kids with a giant, slow-motion LEGO set, observing how moss and life will slowly reclaim this black, jagged expanse over the coming centuries.

Panorama of Fagradalshraun - you could fit a whole lot of awestruck tourists in this frame.

The eruption was so bright that satellite imagery from NASA and ESA captured the thermal glow during peak activity. Meanwhile, the glow was visible from Reykjavík on clear nights. Talk about neighborhood night lights.

The main cone of Fagradalsfjall - a volcanic pimple ready to pop.

This particular cone wasn't the only vent. Over the first few weeks, several fissures opened up, like a zipper on the Earth's crust. Most eventually quieted down, but one of the later vents became the dominant cone, building this cone higher and higher as the summer went on. It was like watching a very slow-motion, very hot construction project.

Another angle of Fagradalsfjall - because when the Earth’s crust splits open, you take as many photos as your memory card allows.

A Land of Lava: Basalt, Tectonics and Other Hot Stuff

The Reykjanes Peninsula sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian plates are having an acrimonious divorce, moving apart about 2–2.5 cm per year. This creates the perfect conditions for volcanoes - think of it as the Earth’s crust saying, “I need some space.”

Fagradalsfjall close-up - we’re just showing off now. But hey, how often do you see a volcano?

The lava here is basaltic - low silica, high temperature and as runny as a cheap milkshake. That’s why it spreads out in flat fields instead of building steep, explosive mountains. Basalt is Iceland’s building block. It’s in the cliffs, the columns and the black sand beaches. It’s the reason the whole place looks like a sci-fi movie set. Rapidly cooled basalt can form a volcanic glass known as tachylyte. We ran our fingers over some smooth, glassy surfaces. They're sharper than they look.

We also learned that Fagradalsfjall is technically a fissure eruption producing a lava field, not a classic large shield volcano like Skjaldbreiður.

Fresh lava at Fagradalsfjall - still hot enough to cook your doubts. Steam rises where rain meets the angry rock.

We saw steam rising where rainwater hit the still-cooling lava. It hissed like a thousand angry cats. Touching it? Not a chance. That stuff is hotter than your ex’s burner account.

Vagabond Tip: A good pair of sturdy hiking boots is non-negotiable. The terrain is sharp, unstable lava rock. We used Lowa Renegade GTX boots, which are recommended by the Icelandic Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands) for volcanic hikes. And always, always check wind direction before you set up your camera - volcanic gas can be acidic.

Tips for Visiting: Don’t Be That Tourist

• Check Conditions: The volcano has moods. Check safe.is for updates. If they say stay home, stay home.
• Gear Up: Hiking boots, layers, gloves and a buff for your face. The wind doesn’t care about your feelings.
• Respect the Land: Lava fields are fragile. Stick to marked paths. The moss takes centuries to grow and seconds to destroy.
• Water: Bring more than you think you need. Dehydration is real, even in cold weather.

Standing near Fagradalsfjall, we felt small. The Earth was doing its thing, with or without us. It’s a humbling reminder that we’re just guests here. But what a party.

Raufarhólshellir Lava Tube: Underground, Underwhelmingly Safe

The entrance to Raufarhólshellir - looks like a villain’s lair, but it’s just a really cool lava tube.

From Grindavík, it's about a 40-minute drive northeast to Raufarhólshellir. The road takes you through moss-covered lava fields that look like the Hulk’s carpet. Steam vents hiss on the side, reminding you that geothermal activity is never far away.

These moss-covered fields aren't just for show. Icelanders have a deep respect - some say a belief - in the Huldufólk, or "hidden people," who are said to live in the rocks and lava formations. There are even cases where road-building projects have been delayed or altered to avoid disturbing the habitats of these elusive elves. There are well-known instances, such as the famous Álfhóll in Kópavogur, where roads have been routed around suspected elf habitats. We didn't see any, but we kept our voices down. Just in case.

The dark maw of Raufarhólshellir - no trolls inside, we checked.

Raufarhólshellir is one of Iceland’s longest lava tubes, stretching about 1,360 meters. It formed about 5,200 years ago during an eruption of the Leitahraun lava field. Imagine a river of molten rock flowing, the top cooling and hardening, while the inside keeps flowing - eventually draining out, leaving a hollow tube. Voilà, nature’s subway. Historical accounts suggest local farmers sometimes used lava tubes for temporary shelter for livestock during brutal winter storms.

Ice crystals inside Raufarhólshellir - nature’s chandeliers.

The same obsidian-like tachylyte glass we saw at the volcano is also found in these tubes. This highlights how versatile this lava is, as it can form razor-sharp edges when it cools quickly.

More ice crystals - because one frozen chandelier shot isn’t enough for your Instagram.

The cave has a spacious parking area and a short walk to the entrance. Easy peasy. Inside, it’s cool year-round (around 0-5°C). In winter, ice formations make it look like Elsa’s palace. In summer, it’s just a dark, damp hole - but in a cool way.

Inside Raufarhólshellir - layers of lava like a geological layer cake.

What is Raufarhólshellir? A Hole Lotta Lava

The ceiling of Raufarhólshellir - looks like a giant snake slithered through and left its skin pattern.

Lava tubes are like the abandoned subway systems of volcanoes. After the eruption ends, the molten rock drains out, leaving a hollow tunnel. Some sections are tall enough to stand, others require a crouch-walk that will test your quads.

Mineral stains on the walls of Raufarhólshellir - nature’s graffiti, painted over millennia.

The walls are layered with colors - reds from oxidation, blacks from the original basalt and even greens and purples from various minerals. It’s like someone spilled a paint factory inside a volcano.

Deep into Raufarhólshellir - over a kilometer of darkness. Bring a flashlight and a buddy.

A Geological Marvel: Fire and Ice and Microbes

Blue-tinted minerals in Raufarhólshellir - like a peacock’s tail underground.

Iceland’s geology is unique because it's the only place where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge rises above sea level. You can literally walk between continents. The ridge is pulling apart at about 2–2.5 cm per year - which means in 50 million years, Iceland might be two islands. But don't wait up.

Smooth, flowing shapes of cooled lava in Raufarhólshellir - like a frozen river of rock.

Raufarhólshellir also hosts extremophile microbes - tiny life forms that thrive in the cold, dark, mineral-rich environment. Scientists study them to understand how life might exist on Mars. So basically, you're visiting an otherworldly habitat right here on Earth. Scientists have identified unique extremophile bacteria in Icelandic lava tubes that metabolize iron and sulfur compounds.

Those shiny spots in Raufarhólshellir? Actinobacteria - they reflect light like tiny alien jewels.

These extremophiles are part of a broader scientific effort. Researchers from institutions like NASA and the European Space Agency study Icelandic lava fields as Martian analogs due to the basaltic rock composition. While scientists look for microbes, Hollywood looks for drama: Raufarhólshellir was a filming location for the 2014 movie Noah, where it served as the antediluvian cave of Methuselah. If you want to practice looking for life on another planet (or Russell Crowe), this damp, dark hole in Iceland is a pretty good place to start. Just don't expect little green men - these guys are microscopic.

Another microbial glow in Raufarhólshellir - like a tiny alien rave.

The Jules Verne Connection: Journey to the Center of the... Lava Tube?

Édouard Riou’s illustration of Verne’s journey - our lava tube hike felt a bit like this, minus the dinosaurs.

Jules Verne set his classic Journey to the Center of the Earth (1864) in Iceland, with the characters descending into the volcano Snæfellsjökull. While Raufarhólshellir isn't that volcano, walking through a lava tube definitely gives you that "exploring the unknown" vibe. You half expect to find an underground ocean or a giant lizard.

“I had no idea of what we should find in this semi-extinct crater... The only way was to go down...”

Vagabond Tip: Book your Raufarhólshellir tour online in advance. According to the official Raufarhólshellir website (thecave.is), the standard guided tour in June 2021 cost 4,990 ISK per person and lasted approximately 45-60 minutes. They provide helmets and headlamps, but a warm fleece is your own responsibility.

Tips for Visiting Raufarhólshellir: Don't Get Lost, Don't Get Cold

• Tours: You can peek in the entrance for free, but to go deep, take a guided tour. They provide helmets, lights and stories.
• Clothing: Dress warm. The cave is a constant 0-5°C. Waterproof boots are smart.
• Photography: The colors are amazing, but lighting is tricky. Tripods are allowed on some tours - ask ahead.

Visiting Fagradalsfjall and Raufarhólshellir was the highlight of our second Iceland trip. It's where science, mythology and pure awe collide. If you're anywhere near Grindavík, make time for these geological wonders.

We still had a couple of days left, so we decided to revisit some classic spots from our first Ring Road adventure. If you are building your own Golden Circle itinerary, these stops are the non-negotiable classics - but we saw them with fresh eyes and a few more jokes.

Revisiting Golden Circle and South Coast Iceland: Old Friends, New Laughs

Thingvellir National Park: Where Plates and Parliaments Collide

Þingvallavegur road to Thingvellir - straight, empty and surrounded by scenery that makes you pull over every five minutes.

Further east, near Laugarvatn, you can visit Laugarvatnshellar, a set of man-made caves with a fascinating history. From 1918 to 1922, the couple Jón Þorvarðsson and Vigdís Helgadóttir actually lived in these caves with their children and livestock. They were known as the "Cave People" and made a living by selling coffee and "cave donuts" to early tourists passing by on horses. They also served as a pitstop for early travelers heading to see Gullfoss and Geysir. It's like a 1920s version of a bed and breakfast, just with more rock and less room service.

Another shot of the approach to Thingvellir - because you can never have too many photos of empty Icelandic highways.

A lesser-known fact from the medieval legal text Grágás (Grey Goose Laws), which governed the early Icelandic Commonwealth, is that anyone attending the Alþingi at Þingvellir was granted a special "thing- peace" - a sacred truce that made it a crime to carry weapons or start feuds within the assembly grounds. Violators could be declared outlaws, which in Iceland meant they had to flee the country or be killed on sight. The law also mandated that all chieftains had to build themselves a temporary turf hut, or búð, for the session. The remains of these ancient booths are still visible in the park. It’s like the world’s oldest Airbnb deposit dispute waiting to happen.

Þingvallavegur opens up to mountains and sky - a landscape that makes you feel very, very small.

There's another fissure in Þingvellir called Flosagjá, but locals often call it Peningagjá, or "Money Fissure." The tradition of tossing coins into its crystal-clear water for good luck started in 1907 when King Frederick VIII of Denmark threw the first coin in. The tradition got so popular that divers have to periodically clean the fissure to protect the ecosystem. Thousands of coins from all over the world glitter on the bottom, though throwing them in is now discouraged to preserve the pristine water quality.

Þingvallavegur winding through ancient lava fields - like driving through a sci-fi movie set.

You can walk through the Almannagjá gorge, where the plates are visibly pulling apart. It’s like standing in Earth’s cracked-open heart. The water in the rift valley is so clear you can see trout doing their fishy business.

The continental divide at Thingvellir - stand with one foot in North America and the other in Eurasia. Just don’t do the splits.

Standing in the Almannagjá gorge, you are literally walking between two continents. The valley floor is steadily widening at a rate of about 2 cm per year. That might not sound like much, but over the thousands of years since the first Vikings gathered here, the gap has grown significantly. It's a slow-motion continental drift and you're right in the middle of it.

The Öxará River cutting through Thingvellir’s rift - Vikings probably drank from it. Tastes like... water.

Some historians speculate that the location for the Alþingi was chosen not just for its dramatic acoustics, but because the rifting valley symbolized the legal and social "rift" that the parliament was meant to heal. It's a nice thought: using a crack in the earth to mend cracks in society. Whether the Vikings were that poetic or just liked a good view is up for debate.

More of Þingvellir - UNESCO World Heritage site, so we’re legally obligated to take many photos.

The park also has the Öxarárfoss waterfall, which is pretty but man-made - Vikings diverted the river to create it. Classic Viking move: “Let’s just move this river, no big deal.”

Haukadalur Valley Geothermal Area and Strokkur Geyser: Old Faithful’s Icelandic Cousin

Haukadalur geothermal area - steamy, smelly and absolutely mesmerizing.

The word "geyser" itself comes from the Icelandic verb "að geysa," meaning "to gush." It's named after the original Great Geysir here in Haukadalur, which has been active for over 10,000 years and was first mentioned in written sources in 1294. Unfortunately, Geysir has become mostly dormant in recent decades, partly due to silica scaling blocking the conduit and partly because tourists in the early 20th century threw rocks and soap into it to force eruptions - a practice thankfully banned today.

Strokkur just before eruption - the water swells, then BOOM.

Strokkur erupts every 5-10 minutes, shooting water up to 30 meters. It's reliable, unlike your phone signal. The name means “churn” in Icelandic, which is appropriate because it churns out tourist selfies by the thousands.

Hot springs at Haukadalur bubble and steam - smells like a giant boiled egg, but you get used to it.

The word “geyser” comes from Icelandic “geysa” - to gush. The original Geysir is nearby but mostly dormant now. Strokkur stole its thunder. Typical younger sibling move.

Geysir Centre - perfect for a bowl of Icelandic lamb soup after all that geothermal ogling.

The Geysir Centre across the road has decent food and souvenirs. We grabbed a bowl of Icelandic lamb soup - hearty, warming and perfect for a chilly day.

Kerid Crater: A Volcanic Punch Bowl

Panorama of Kerið - a volcanic crater filled with water the color of a swimming pool.

Kerið is part of the Tjarnarhólar volcanic system, about 3,000 years old. Unlike most volcanic craters, which are dark, Kerið has red and black slopes from iron-rich minerals. The vivid color of the lake is due to minerals and microscopic algae (diatoms) in the water.

The path down into Kerið - steep but worth it for the view (and the Instagram likes).

The path down into the crater is steep, but the view is worth every burning quad muscle. The crater's walls are composed of red volcanic scoria, which is surprisingly fragile. This scoria is what gives the crater its distinct red color, contrasting beautifully with the deep blue-green water below. It's a photographer's dream, but please, stay on the path - the rock crumbles easily.

Kerið’s crater lake - so blue it looks photoshopped.

The water level in Kerið fluctuates with the region's groundwater table, but it's remarkably stable. Some local legends say the crater is bottomless and connected to the sea. Scientists, however, have measured the water depth at between 7 and 14 meters, while the crater itself is about 55 meters deep. In a display of true Icelandic eccentricity, Björk once held a concert here, performing from a floating raft in the middle of the lake while the audience sat on the red volcanic slopes. We'll go with the scientists on the depth, but the Björk story is much more fun.

The red slopes of Kerið contrast with the blue water - a photographer’s dream.

If you walk the rim, you'll notice a small hut on the far side. It's not for elves - it's a simple shelter for birdwatchers. Various bird species can be seen around the crater, particularly in summer months. In summer, the cries of these birds echoing off the crater walls add an eerie soundtrack to the stunning visuals.

Walking the rim of Kerið - panoramic views of the surrounding landscape.

You can walk the entire rim or descend to the water's edge. Swimming isn't allowed, but you can dip a toe. We didn't. It was cold. Shocking.

Vagabond Tip: The entrance fee to Kerið in June 2021 was 450 ISK per person, according to the sign at the ticket booth. The path down is slippery, so wear sturdy shoes. And if you're a photographer, the golden hour light makes the red walls and blue water pop like nothing else.

Seljalandsfoss: The Waterfall You Can Walk Behind (And Get Soaked)

Seljalandsfoss - 60 meters of pure, gravity-powered joy.

Seljalandsfoss drops from sea cliffs that were once the coastline. Over millennia, the land rose due to glacial rebound, leaving the cliffs inland. The waterfall is fed by the Seljalandsá river, which originates from the Eyjafjallajökull glacier. Yes, that volcano that erupted in 2010 and grounded all those flights.

Walking behind Seljalandsfoss - like a shower that never ends, with a great view.

While getting soaked by the spray, take a moment to notice the lush, umbrella-like plants clinging to the cliffs. This is Angelica archangelica (Hvönn), a plant so vital to Viking survival for its medicinal properties that the medieval Grágás law code specifically penalized its theft. According to the laws preserved in the Codex Regius, stealing angelica from another man’s "hvannagarður" (angelica garden) was a crime punishable by outlawry. Today, the only penalty you'll face here is wet socks, but the history remains rooted in the soil.

Rainbows at Seljalandsfoss - bring a wide-angle lens and a towel.

There's another waterfall hiding just 150 meters away from the crowds. Gljúfrabúi, or "Canyon Dweller," is tucked inside a narrow gorge and you have to wade through a small stream to reach it. Legend has it that this waterfall was once a muse for 19th-century poets and artists who were drawn to its ethereal, hidden beauty. We felt pretty poetic ourselves, though our words were mostly limited to "Wow!" and "It's freezing!"

Portrait mode at Seljalandsfoss - everyone looks like an adventurer.

Nearby is Gljúfrabúi, a waterfall hidden in a canyon. You have to wade through a stream to reach it. It's like a secret club for adventurous tourists. We went in. Worth it.

Skógafoss: Big, Loud and Legendary

Skógafoss - 60 meters of thunder. You can feel the spray from 100 meters away.

Legend says the first Viking settler in the area, Þrasi Þórólfsson, hid a chest of gold behind the waterfall. The ring on the chest supposedly broke off and was later used as a door handle on the Skógar church. More recently, the waterfall served as a backdrop for Marvel's Thor: The Dark World. So whether you're looking for Viking gold or Asgardian gods, you're in the right place. We didn't find either - too busy taking photos.

The staircase next to the falls leads to a viewing platform and then continues along the Skógá River, part of the famous Fimmvörðuháls trail. We only went up a bit, but the view of the coast was worth the climb.

Katla Volcano and Sólheimajökull Glacier: Fire and Ice, Literally

Mýrdalsjökull ice cap hides Katla volcano - like a sleeping dragon under a blanket.

Katla is a beast. It erupts every 40-80 years, last time in 1918. It's overdue. When it blows, it causes massive glacial floods (jökulhlaups). The 2010 Eyjafjallajökull eruption was a warm-up act compared to what Katla can do.

The ice cap over Katla - looks peaceful, but beneath it, magma is waiting.

Reverend Jón Steingrímsson, famous for his later 'Fire Sermon' during the 1783 Laki eruptions, witnessed the catastrophic 1755 eruption of Katla, which produced massive glacial floods (jökulhlaups).

Sólheimajökull - a tongue of ice creeping down from the ice cap. It's retreating, though, thanks to climate change.

Sólheimajökull is an outlet glacier from Mýrdalsjökull. You can hike on it with a guide - we did and it felt like walking on another planet. The ice is dirty with volcanic ash, giving it a surreal striped appearance.

Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach: Where Trolls Turn to Stone

Reynisfjara - black sand, white waves and a sky that always looks dramatic.

The sand is black because it's ground-up basalt lava. The waves are powerful and unpredictable - "sneaker waves" that can sweep you out to sea. We kept a safe distance, unlike some tourists who think selfies are worth dying for.

Reynisdrangar sea stacks - trolls turned to stone by the sunrise, according to legend.

The Reynisdrangar sea stacks are basalt columns left from ancient lava flows. Legend says they were trolls trying to drag a ship to shore when the sun rose and turned them to stone. Typical trolls - always late.

Basalt columns at Gardar - nature’s own art installation, each a perfect hexagon.

Speaking of trolls, there's another tale tied to this beach. It's said that if you listen closely at night, you can hear the mournful wails of the trolls who were turned to stone, longing for their mountain home. We were there in the afternoon, so all we heard was the wind and the crashing waves. Probably for the best - we're not sure how we'd handle stone trolls with regrets.

Close-up of the basalt columns - they look like a giant’s honeycomb.

These incredible hexagonal columns aren't just for show. They were formed by the slow, even cooling of a thick lava flow. As the lava cooled, it contracted and fractured into these geometric shapes, much like mud cracking in a dry lake bed. The result is a natural wonder that looks like it was designed by a mathematician with a flair for the dramatic.

Dyrhólaey arch in the distance - a massive hole punched through a sea cliff.

Dyrhólaey is a massive natural arch just west of the beach. You can drive up for panoramic views, but keep an eye on the wind - it can be fierce. In 1993, a daredevil pilot actually flew a small aircraft through the hole in the arch, a stunt that is definitely illegal and highly discouraged today. In summer, the cliffs become a nesting ground for thousands of puffins. We saw a few - they look like flying potatoes with orange beaks.

Mýrdalsjökull ice cap peeking over the hills. Katla is sleeping... for now.

Bollywood fans might recognize Reynisfjara from the song "Gerua" in the movie Dilwale (2015). Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol danced here and honestly, who can blame them? It's a stunning backdrop. We recreated the poses. Our version is less graceful but equally enthusiastic.

The beach is mesmerizing but dangerous. Those waves? They're called "sneaker waves" for a reason. Scientifically, they are long-period swells that can travel across the entire Atlantic without hitting land until they reach Iceland. This allows them to push much further up the beach than expected, catching tourists completely off guard even on calm days. We stayed well back, on the dry sand. Safety first, selfies second.

The Road Back: Ring Road Reflections

The Ring Road - Iceland’s main artery, winding through lava fields and past glaciers.

Driving back toward Grindavík, we passed through small towns like Vík and Hvolsvöllur. Each has its own charm. Vík has a famous church on a hill and a population of about 300. The church is cute, but the view from the hill is why you stop.

The Ring Road stretches ahead - empty and inviting. Makes you want to keep driving forever.

Back in Grindavík, we stopped for a final hot dog at the N1 station. Icelandic hot dogs are legendary - made from lamb, served with crispy onions, remoulade and mustard. They're the perfect fuel for travelers.

Departure from Keflavík Airport: Goodbye, Land of Fire and Ice

Keflavík Airport - sleek, modern and surrounded by lava fields. Even the airport is on brand.

Keflavík Airport is about 50 km from Reykjavík. It's a hub for Icelandair and a popular stopover between North America and Europe. The terminal is designed with Icelandic aesthetics - wood, stone and lots of natural light. It's one of the few airports where you're sad to leave.

Departure board at Keflavík - listing flights far from this volcanic paradise.

Our departure from the Leif Erikson Terminal (inaugurated in 1987) offered a final look at the Miðnesheiði plateau. This area is geologically significant as it contains some of the oldest exposed rock on the peninsula. As we taxied, we passed the "Jet Nest" (Þotuhreiður), a distinctive sculpture by Magnús Tómasson. It depicts a stainless steel jet wing "hatching" from a giant steel egg resting in a nest of Icelandic boulders, symbolizing the birth of modern aviation from the rugged landscape. It serves as a surreal farewell for every traveler leaving the island.

Icelandair plane at Keflavík - clean, simple livery, ready to take us home.

The ground beneath the tarmac is as fascinating as the planes above it. The airport sits on the Miðnesheiði heath, where the lava is so porous that surface water drains almost instantly, preventing the formation of mud even during heavy rains. This natural drainage was a decisive factor when the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers selected this site in 1943 to build what was then known as "Meeks Field" (named after Lt. George Meeks). Unlike other North Atlantic outposts that turned into quagmires, this runway remained solid, anchored directly into the permeable bedrock of the Reykjanes Ridge.

De-icing in June at Keflavík - only in Iceland.

We were witnessing a known aviation phenomenon called Cold-Soaked Fuel Frost (CSFF). This occurs when an aircraft's fuel remains at sub-zero temperatures after a long, high-altitude flight. Upon landing, even in mild June temperatures (e.g., 10°C–15°C), the supercooled fuel in the wings causes ambient moisture to condense and freeze on the wing surface. Aviation regulations (the "Clean Aircraft Concept") mandate this ice be removed before takeoff, leading to the "summer de-icing" we witnessed.

Last glimpse of Iceland from above - until next time, land of fire and ice.

Vagabond Tip: If you're flying out of Keflavík, don't miss the duty-free store. According to the airport's official shopping guide (isavia.is), prices for Icelandic wool and liquor are often cheaper here than in Reykjavík. And grab a final hot dog at the airport's "Pylsuvagninn" stand - it's a tradition.

Volcanic Showdown: Fagradalsfjall vs. Katla

For those who like their data in a digestible format, here’s how the two volcanic systems we encountered compare, based on official data from the Icelandic Meteorological Office (en.vedur.is) and the University of Iceland.

Feature	Fagradalsfjall (2021 Eruption)	Katla (Subglacial)
Volcanic System	Fagradalsfjall Volcanic System	Katla volcanic system (Icelandic Met Office)
Last Major Eruption	March–September 2021 (Icelandic Met Office)	1918 (Icelandic Met Office); overdue per geological records
Eruption Style	Effusive, fissure-fed lava flows (University of Iceland)	Explosive, subglacial (phreatomagmatic)
Primary Hazard	Gas pollution, localized lava flows (Icelandic Met Office)	Glacial floods (jökulhlaups), ash clouds
Lava Composition	Primitive basalt (mantle-derived), high temperature (University of Iceland)	More evolved, silica-rich basalts to rhyolites
Tourist Access (June 2021)	Open, with marked trails and parking (safe.is)	Restricted; ice cap access only with specialist guides

Both are humbling, but in very different ways. One invites you to walk right up to the action; the other reminds you from a distance what true, ice-covered fury looks like.

Sources & Further Reading

• Icelandic Meteorological Office - Official monitoring reports and scientific updates on the Reykjanes eruptions.
• University of Iceland - Research and geological studies on Icelandic volcanism and mantle processes.
• RÚV (Icelandic National Broadcasting Service) - Local coverage and field reporting during the 2021 eruption.
• National Geographic - Science reporting and visual coverage of the Fagradalsfjall eruption.
• BBC News - International reporting on Iceland’s 2021 volcanic activity.
• SafeTravel Iceland - Official safety updates and travel advisories for volcanic areas.

Once again, check out the Vagabond Couple Photo-Story on our first and comprehensive exploration of Iceland at The Ultimate Iceland 360° Ring Road Trip Guide: Route 1 (Þjóðvegur). Until our next adventure,

- The Vagabond Couple 🗺️✨