Return to ICELAND: Journey to Fagradalsfjall Volcano, Raufarhólshellir Lava Tubes & Revisiting Golden Circle to Southern Jewels
 |
| Fagradalsfjall Volcano in Iceland |
Hello from The Vagabond Couple! In our last expedition to Iceland, we explored the Golden Circle and went around all of Iceland's Ring Road (Route 1) aka Þjóðvegur 1 or Hringvegurinn. Today, we want to share our unforgettable trip from Grindavík to the Fagradalsfjall volcano, a journey that was both thrilling and humbling. In addition, we visit the Raufarhólshellir and revisit the remarkable sights on the Golden Circle as well southern Iceland. If you're planning to visit Iceland, this is a must-see adventure, blending the raw power of nature with Iceland’s unique geology.
Fagradalsfjall Volcano
Starting Point: Grindavík
 |
| N1 Self-service Gas Station, Grindavik |
We began our day in the small fishing town of Grindavík, which serves as a gateway to the Reykjanes Peninsula's natural wonders. It’s a peaceful place, but the real excitement started when we drove toward the Fagradalsfjall volcano, where recent eruptions have drawn global attention.
 |
| Aðal-Braut Fast Food Restaurant, Grindavik |
Grindavik is known for its beautiful scenery, including mountains and the ocean. The town is also home to a geothermal power plant. While it is a peaceful place for most of the year, the volcano brought change in March of 2021 bringing both danger and fascination to the town. The eruption created stunning lava flows and drew visitors from around the world including us. However, it also caused some disruptions to daily life in Grindavik. Despite the challenges, the town remains resilient and continues to be a charming and unique place to live.
We lodged at Anita's Guest House close to the southern shore at Grindavik.
 |
| Anita's guest house |
The Naval Transmitter Facility in Grindavik is a communication hub operated by the US Navy. It is like a giant radio station, but instead of playing music, it sends important messages over long distances using powerful radio waves. These messages are crucial for the US Navy and its allies to stay connected, even across vast oceans. The facility has tall antennas that help it send and receive these signals, making it a vital part of global naval communication.
Iceland is a founding member of NATO, and unique in being the only member without a standing military.
 |
| Naval Radio Transmitters of US Navy |
To reach the Fagradalsfjall volcano area, from Grindavik we followed signs and maps to the temporary parking lot designated for volcano visitors. It is located on Suðurstrandarvegur (Route 427 towards Hveragerði) east of Grindavik. It’s worth noting that this parking changes depending on volcanic activity, so always check the latest information before heading out. From the lot, we are guided by marked trails designed to keep visitors safe.
 |
| Temporary parking space at Fagradalsfjall volcano hiking trail head |
The Hike to Fagradalsfjall
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano trailhead |
The hike was exhilarating, around 4–6 kilometers round trip, depending on which trail is open at the time. It’s not overly challenging, but sturdy boots and warm layers are essential because the Icelandic weather changes quickly.
 |
| Visitor counter at Fagradalsfjall volcano hiking trail |
Iceland's authorities installed sensors on the trail to count the number of crazy people walking up to the volcano. There is website which tells you the number in real time. We guessed another purpose for counting people is to make sure that everybody going in make out of the trail as well!
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano lava flow |
As we got closer, we felt the earth vibrating under our feet—a reminder of the incredible forces beneath us. The air smelled faintly of sulfur, and the horizon shimmered with heat waves.
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano lava field |
Then, we saw it: the lava fields, vast and otherworldly, stretching as far as we could see.
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano lava field |
The trails led us to a safe viewing area where we could see the fresh lava flow. The molten rock glowed an intense orange, snaking its way through the dark landscape.
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano |
When the volcano is erupting, you can sometimes see fountains of lava shooting into the air. It was mesmerizing!
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano |
A Land of Lava
The Reykjanes Peninsula, where Fagradalsfjall is located, is a geologist’s dream. This region sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates pull apart. The lava here is mostly basaltic, which means it’s dark, low in silica, and very fluid.
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano |
Basaltic lava flows much faster than the sticky, explosive lava you might see in places like Mount St. Helens. This is why the lava spreads out to form large, flat fields instead of steep mountains. Iceland is dotted with basalt formations, giving it that otherworldly, rugged look.
 |
| Fagradalsfjall volcano lava field |
The fresh lava was still cooling, and we could see steam rising where rainwater met the heat. Touching the surface was, of course, out of the question - temperatures can reach over 1,000°C!
Tips for Visiting
- Check Conditions: The volcano’s activity and the weather are unpredictable. Local websites and visitor centers provide updates on safety and trail accessibility.
- Bring the Right Gear: Comfortable hiking shoes, layers, and gloves are essential. A flashlight is handy if your hike runs into the evening.
- Respect the Land: The lava fields are fragile, and stepping on them is dangerous. Stick to marked paths.
Standing near Fagradalsfjall, we were reminded of how alive our planet is. It’s an experience that humbles you and fills you with wonder. If you’re coming to Iceland, don’t miss this chance to witness the raw power of nature up close.
Raufarhólshellir Lava Tube
 |
| Raufarhólshellir Lava Tunnel Main Gate |
Starting in the small coastal town of Grindavík, we set off for the Raufarholshellir Lave Tunnel, which is about a 40-minute drive northeast. The route is scenic, with Iceland's raw and rugged volcanic landscapes unfolding around us.
 |
| Raufarhólshellir lava tube entrance |
On the road to the Lava Tunnel, we passed stretches of black lava fields, moss-covered rocks, and steam rising from geothermal vents - it felt like driving on another planet.
 |
| Ice crystals in Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
Getting to Raufarhólshellir lava tube was straightforward, with clear signs guiding us once we got close. The parking area is spacious and located just a short walk from the cave entrance, so there’s no need to worry about parking logistics.
 |
| Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
What is Raufarhólshellir?
 |
| Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
Raufarhólshellir is one of Iceland’s largest and best-known lava tubes, stretching about 1,360 meters (4,460 feet) long. A lava tube, or lava tunnel, is a type of cave formed during volcanic eruptions when the surface lava cools and hardens, while the molten lava beneath continues to flow, eventually leaving a hollow tunnel. These tubes offer an amazing glimpse into the underground workings of volcanoes.
 |
| Various minerals at Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
Inside, the cave is massive, with some sections being tall enough to stand in comfortably and others narrowing into smaller, more adventurous spaces. The walls are layered with incredible textures and colors, from deep reds and blacks to oranges and purples, caused by minerals and cooling patterns. Winter visitors may even see glittering icicles hanging from the ceiling.
 |
| Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
A Geological Marvel
 |
| Various minerals at Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
Iceland’s unique geology makes it one of the best places in the world to explore lava tubes. The country is located along the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where two tectonic plates - the North American and Eurasian plates - are pulling apart. This creates intense volcanic activity, forming lava fields and features like Raufarhólshellir.
 |
| Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
The tube itself was created about 5,200 years ago during an eruption, and what’s left now is a fascinating underground world that feels like stepping into the Earth’s core. It’s a powerful reminder of how Iceland is constantly shaped by fire and ice.
Raufarhólshellir is also home to some very special residents: microbes! These tiny organisms have adapted to the unique environment inside the cave. They live in dark, damp conditions and feed on minerals found in the rocks.
 |
| Extreme environment microbes shine inside Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
Some of these microbes are even being studied by scientists who think they might be similar to life forms that could exist on other planets, like Mars. It's amazing to think that such small creatures can thrive in such an extreme place!
 |
| Extreme environment microbes shine in Raufarhólshellir lava tube |
The Jules Verne Connection
 |
| An illustration by Édouard Riou from Jules Verne's "Journey to the Center of the Earth" Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons |
If you’re a book lover, you’ll be thrilled to know that Jules Verne based his famous novel Journey to the Center of the Earth on a real Icelandic location. In the story, the adventurers descend into a volcanic crater called Snæfellsjökull, which is about two hours from Raufarhólshellir. Although the two places aren’t directly connected, walking through Raufarhólshellir made us feel like we were on our own Jules Verne-style expedition into Earth’s hidden layers.
Tips for Visiting
- Tours: While you can explore the entrance on your own, guided tours are highly recommended. They include helmets and lights, and you’ll learn so much about the cave’s history and geology.
- Clothing: Dress warmly and wear sturdy shoes. The cave stays cool year-round, and the ground can be uneven.
- Photography: The lighting inside can be tricky, but the colors and formations are worth capturing. Some tours even offer special photography sessions!
Visiting Fagradalsfjall volcano and Raufarhólshellir lava tube was a highlight of our second trip to Iceland. It’s a place where science, history, and literature collide, creating an unforgettable experience. If you’re near Grindavík or exploring Iceland’s southern region, make sure to add this lava tube to your list! We still have a couple of days left which we now use to revisit some of the most remarkable places from our last overlanding trip around all of Iceland.
Revisiting Golden Circle and Southern Iceland
Thingvellir National Park
 |
| Road to Thingvellir National Park (Þingvallavegur) |
Driving to the popular Þingvellir National Park is like embarking on a journey through time and earth.
 |
|
|
As you wind along the Þingvallavegur scenic road, you'll be amazed by the stark beauty of Iceland's landscape.
 |
|
|
Thingvellir itself is a geological wonder, where you can actually walk between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. You can explore deep fissures, crystal-clear lakes, and historic sites, all while feeling the raw power of nature.
 |
| North American and Eurasian Plate divide at Thingvellir National Park, Iceland |
Thingvellir is a place where history, geology, and breathtaking scenery converge, making it an unforgettable experience.
 |
|
|
Thingvellir National Park is famously home to the world's oldest parliament, the Althing, which was established in 930 AD. This historic site, where Icelanders gathered to make laws and settle disputes, offers a glimpse into the country's rich history and unique democratic heritage.
Haukadalur Valley Geothermal Area and Strokkur Geyser
 |
| Strokkur Geyser / Haukadalur Geothermal Area |
Strokkur Geyser is located in southwest Iceland, in the Haukadalur Valley off Rt.35 (Biskupstungnabraut). It is part of a geothermal area, which means it's an area with a lot of heat energy coming from inside the Earth.
 |
| Strokkur Geyser / Haukadalur Geothermal Area |
Iceland gave the world the word "geyser" which comes from the Icelandic verb "geysa" meaning "to gush." The specific geyser here in Haukadalur, "Geysir", is the namesake for all geysers worldwide. Unfortunately Geysir has gone dormant for a while now, while its neighbor Strokkur puts on a periodic show every 10 to 20 minutes.
The heat energy from inside the Earth causes the water underground to heat up and eventually erupt as a powerful geyser, shooting hot water high into the air. It's a really exciting and impressive sight to see once again! Watch Strokkur erupt in a video from our previous visit here.
 |
| Geysir Centre Restaurant |
The Geysir Centre across the street is a great place to grab lunch on the Golden Circle drive!
Kerid Crater
 |
| Kerið Crater |
Kerið Crater is located further up Biskupstungnabraut along the popular Golden Circle route.
 |
| Path down to Kerið Crater |
Kerid is a stunning volcanic crater lake.
 |
| Kerið Crater |
Kerið Crater's vibrant colors are truly captivating - the deep red volcanic rock contrasts beautifully with the crystal-clear blue-green water.
 |
| Kerið Crater |
Kerið Crater is about 3,000 years old and offers a unique glimpse into Iceland's volcanic past.
 |
| Kerið Crater |
You can walk around the rim of the crater for panoramic views or even descend to the water's edge for a closer look. Don't miss this incredible natural wonder on your Icelandic adventure!
Seljalandsfoss
 |
| Seljalandsfoss |
We get on the Ring Road, Iceland’s main highway, in the southern part of the country, driving east to revisit the stunning Seljalandsfoss waterfall. With its 60-meter drop, Seljalandsfoss is one of Iceland’s most famous natural wonders. It’s a place where nature’s power and beauty come together.
Parking was easy. There’s a lot near the waterfall where we left our car. A small fee is required for parking, so have a few Icelandic krona or a credit card ready. From the parking area, it’s just a short walk to the falls.
The Walk Behind the Seljalandsfoss Waterfall
 |
| Seljalandsfoss |
What makes Seljalandsfoss unique is that you can walk behind it. This is rare for waterfalls, and it’s an experience we'll never forget. The path is rocky and can be slippery, so good shoes are a must. We recommend waterproof hiking boots, as you’ll get wet from the spray.
As we walked behind the curtain of water, it felt like stepping into another world. The view from there is breathtaking. The sunlight shining through the water creates rainbows on sunny days. We stood there for a while, just taking it all in. It’s loud, wet, and completely magical. Don’t forget to bring a raincoat or poncho to keep yourself dry.
 |
| Seljalandsfoss |
Seljalandsfoss is beautiful, but there’s more to see in the area. A short walk from Seljalandsfoss leads to another waterfall called Gljúfrabúi. It’s hidden inside a small canyon. To reach it, we had to step on stones in a shallow stream. It felt like a mini adventure. When we reached the inside of the canyon, we saw the waterfall pouring down in a narrow space. It’s smaller than Seljalandsfoss but equally charming.
The surrounding area is perfect for a picnic. We found a grassy spot and sat down to enjoy a snack while admiring the views. Sheep grazed nearby, adding to the peaceful atmosphere. Iceland’s nature feels untouched, and it’s easy to lose track of time in such a serene place.
 |
| Seljalandsfoss |
Seljalandsfoss is stunning in every season. In summer, the days are unending, and the greenery around the falls is vibrant. This is the best time for photographers, as you can capture the waterfall under the midnight sun.
Winter transforms Seljalandsfoss into a frozen wonderland. Ice forms around the falls, and the path behind it is often closed for safety. But the snow-covered landscape and icy formations are worth seeing. Visiting in winter means fewer crowds, but you’ll need to bundle up to stay warm.
Autumn and spring are also great times to visit. These seasons are quieter, and the changing colors of the landscape add to the beauty. No matter when you visit, Seljalandsfoss always feels magical.
Skógafoss
The Skógafoss waterfall is our next stop driving east on Route 1 in southern Iceland. Steeped in local legend, Skógafoss is said to conceal a treasure chest behind its curtain of water, left by an ancient Viking settler.
 |
| Skógafoss |
Located on the Skógá River near the village of Skógar, this majestic cascade plunges 60 meters (197 feet) from ancient sea cliffs, spreading out 25 meters (82 feet) wide, creating a powerful and mesmerizing spectacle. The waterfall is renowned for its mist, which often produces vivid rainbows on sunny days, adding a magical touch to its already stunning beauty. Visitors can admire Skógafoss from its base, where the thundering spray offers an exhilarating close-up experience, or climb a steep staircase to a viewing platform above for panoramic vistas of the surrounding landscape.
Katla Volcano covered by Mýrdalsjökull ice cap & Sólheimajökull glacier
 |
| Katla Volcano covered by Mýrdalsjökull ice cap & Sólheimajökull glacier |
Sólheimajökull, a striking outlet glacier in southern Iceland, is a dramatic natural wonder that serves as a gateway to the vast Mýrdalsjökull ice cap, one of the largest in the country. This tongue of ice stretches into a rugged landscape of volcanic ash, craggy ridges, and icy crevasses, offering a vivid example of the interplay between fire and ice that defines Iceland's geology.
 |
| Katla Volcano covered by Mýrdalsjökull ice cap |
Behind Sólheimajökull lies Mýrdalsjökull, which covers the formidable Katla volcano, a sleeping giant known for its periodic eruptions that shape the region. These glaciers are not only breathtaking to behold but also powerful reminders of the impacts of climate change, as their retreat over recent decades has revealed striking evidence of warming temperatures. The supernatural thriller Netflix series Katla (2021) is set at this location.
 |
| Sólheimajökull Glacier |
Sólheimajökull’s accessible trails and guided tours provide visitors with a rare opportunity to walk on the ice and witness this dynamic environment up close, making it a must-visit for adventurers and nature enthusiasts.
Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach
 |
| Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach |
Reynisfjara Beach, located on Iceland’s southern coast near the village of Vík, is one of the country’s most famous and dramatic black sand beaches. Known for its striking landscape, it features jet-black volcanic sands, powerful Atlantic waves, and towering basalt columns that create an otherworldly atmosphere.
 |
| Reynisdrangar sea stacks at Reynisfjara Beach |
The beach is flanked by the Reynisdrangar sea stacks - towering rock formations rising sharply out of the ocean, said to be petrified trolls caught by the morning sun as they attempted to drag a ship ashore. These formations, shaped by centuries of erosion and imbued with local folklore, lend an air of mysticism to the site.
 |
| Hexagonal Basalt Columns of Cliff of Gardar at Reynisfjara |
The basalt columns at Reynisfjara are one of its most iconic features. Formed from rapidly cooling lava, these hexagonal pillars line the cliffs and create a geometric marvel that has fascinated visitors for generations. Known as Gardar, this cliff of basalt resembles a vast organ pipe and provides an awe-inspiring backdrop that contrasts with the crashing waves below.
 |
| Hexagonal Basalt Columns of Cliff of Gardar at Reynisfjara |
Many tourists climb and photograph the columns, marveling at the symmetry and the raw power of nature that shaped them.
 |
| Dyrhólaey natural arch view from Reynisfjara |
Adding to the allure of Reynisfjara is the nearby natural arch of Dyrhólaey, which rises dramatically over the water. This massive arch of volcanic rock was carved over millennia by relentless waves, creating a bridge-like formation that juts into the sea. From its vantage point, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of the coastline, with the Reynisdrangar stacks in the distance and, on clear days, even glimpse the ice-capped peaks of Mýrdalsjökull.
 |
| Mýrdalsjökull icefield over Katla Volcano seen from Reynisfjara Beach |
The folklore surrounding Reynisfjara enhances its mystique. According to Icelandic legends, the Reynisdrangar stacks were once trolls who met their fate due to their own folly, a reminder of the magical and unpredictable forces that dominate Iceland’s landscapes.
Bollywood movie fans vividly remember Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol brought their iconic chemistry to the breathtaking Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach in Iceland while filming the romantic song "Gerua" for the movie Dilwale (2015). Against the stunning backdrop of dramatic basalt columns, towering cliffs, and the deep black sands, the pair danced gracefully, exuding timeless romance.
Watch: Gerua full song video SRK Kajol Dilwale
The surreal beauty of the location perfectly complemented the dreamy visuals and emotions of the song, creating an unforgettable cinematic moment. The vibrant costumes and heartfelt performances contrasted strikingly with the moody, windswept landscape, showcasing the unique magic that Shah Rukh Khan and Kajol bring to the silver screen.
The beach itself, though mesmerizing, is also known for its dangerous “sneaker waves” that have claimed lives, serving as a humbling reminder of the ocean’s immense power. These tales, combined with the beach’s natural beauty, make Reynisfjara not only a stunning destination but also a place where nature and myth intertwine in captivating harmony.
 |
| Iceland Route 1 (Ring Road) |
Our journey back from Reynisfjara Beach to Grindavík was filled with a mix of awe and bittersweet nostalgia as we left behind Iceland’s surreal landscapes. The drive along the Ring Road offered a final look at the country’s rugged beauty, with volcanic plains, moss-covered lava fields, and the distant glimmer of glaciers accompanying us.
 |
| Iceland Route 1 Ring Road |
Passing through small towns and farms, we soaked in the last of Iceland’s charm, each turn revealing new vistas that reminded us why this place feels like stepping onto another planet. The town of Grindavík again welcomed us with its cozy atmosphere, a small fishing village that felt like a final taste of Iceland’s maritime culture.
The drive to Keflavík Airport was a short but reflective one. The Reykjanes Peninsula, with its dramatic geothermal vents and volcanic landscapes, served as a fitting backdrop for our departure. At the airport, Icelandair’s warm hospitality greeted us as we prepared to leave this land of fire and ice.
 |
| Keflavík Airport |
Keflavík Airport, Iceland’s primary international gateway, is a modern and efficient hub that reflects the country’s unique charm. Located on the Reykjanes Peninsula, just 50 kilometers from Reykjavík, the airport serves as a critical link between Europe and North America, with Icelandair and other carriers making it a popular stopover destination.
 |
| Departure Board at Keflavík Airport |
The terminal’s design is sleek and minimalist, featuring natural materials like wood and stone that evoke the island’s rugged landscapes. Inside, travelers can enjoy duty-free shopping, Icelandic crafts, and local delicacies like smoked fish and skyr. Despite its bustling international connections, the airport maintains a calm and welcoming atmosphere, with plenty of seating areas and panoramic windows that offer views of the surrounding lava fields.
 |
| Keflavík to Washington Dulles Icelandair airplane |
Whether departing or arriving, Keflavík Airport provides a seamless experience, embodying Iceland’s commitment to hospitality and its deep connection to nature.
 |
| Deicing of our airplane at Keflavik |
Boarding the flight, we felt a pang of sadness to leave behind the land of trolls, glaciers, and black sand beaches, but also excitement to return home with stories and memories that would last a lifetime. The flight back to Germantown, Maryland, via Icelandair, was smooth, offering one last aerial view of Iceland’s unique terrain before disappearing into the clouds. As we settled into the journey, we found ourselves scrolling through photos and reliving moments from our second trip to Iceland.
 |
| Keflavik to Washington Dulles Icelandair Flight |
Once again, check out the Vagabond Couple Photo-Story on our first and comprehensive exploration of Iceland at Overlanding Iceland. Until our next adventure,
The Vagabond Couple 🗺️✨
Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and Gemini.
0 comments