Alazani Valley stretching below the Sighnaghi Wall - Georgia's "Great Wall" overlooking wine country

Hey there, fellow wanderers! Buckle up, because today we're taking you on a repeat road trip that's equal parts history, wine, and questionable decisions (like eating a third helping of shoti bread). We're heading again from Tbilisi to the Kakheti Valley, Georgia's wine country, where the grapes are plentiful, the legends are wild, and the barbecue will make you question every life choice that led you to not move here permanently. Just for reference, the story of our prior adventure along this route is here: "A Day Trip Through Kakheti: Wine, History, and Georgian Charm".

Let me tell you something about this Alazani Valley you're looking at. This isn't just pretty scenery - it's basically the liquid gold factory of Georgia. The valley sits between the Greater Caucasus Mountains to the north and the Tsiv-Gombori Range to the south, creating this perfect little microclimate that grapes absolutely adore. The soil? Oh buddy, it's this magical mix of volcanic ash, river sediments, and alluvial deposits that dates back to when the Caucasus Mountains were just showing off, pushing up from the earth's crust like a geological teenager with something to prove.

The Drive from Tbilisi to Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery

Our adventure began in Tbilisi, Georgia's capital, where we picked up our trusty rental car (let's call her Nino, after Georgia's favorite saint - more on her later). The drive to Kakheti is about two hours, but let's be real, with Georgian roads, it's less of a drive and more of a suggestion of movement.

The scenery, though? Absolutely worth it. Rolling hills, vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, and the occasional cow casually strolling down the road like it owns the place (it probably does). As we got closer to Kakheti, the air smelled faintly of grapes and possibility. Or maybe that was just the wine fumes from the wineries. Seriously though, that drive takes you through some of the oldest continuously cultivated wine regions on the planet - we're talking vines that have been producing grapes since before someone thought "Hey, let's build a pyramid!"

Qvevri wine vessels at KTW Winery - Georgia's 8,000-year-old winemaking technology

Alright, let's talk qvevri. These aren't your grandma's wine barrels. These egg-shaped clay pots have been the backbone of Georgian winemaking for literally thousands of years. The science is brilliant - buried underground, they maintain a constant temperature between 13-15°C (55-59°F) year-round. The shape? It creates natural convection currents that keep the sediment (called "chacha") moving, which gives Georgian amber wines their distinctive character. Oh, and that orangey-amber color you'll see in some Georgian wines? That comes from fermenting white grapes with their skins, seeds, and stems inside these very qvevri for months. It's like wine made by alchemists who really knew their stuff.

Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery: Where Wine is Life

First stop: Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery. If you're thinking, "Oh, another winery," stop right there. This isn't just a winery - it's a time machine. Georgia is the birthplace of wine, with over 8,000 years of winemaking history. That's right, while your ancestors were figuring out how to make fire, Georgians were already perfecting the art of getting tipsy.

Sampling amber wine straight from the barrel at KTW - a 8,000-year-old tradition

Now here's where things get geologically fascinating. The reason Georgian wine tastes so unique isn't just the qvevri - it's the dirt. Seriously. Kakheti sits on what geologists call the "Kura Basin," filled with sediments from the Greater and Lesser Caucasus ranges. You've got limestone, marl, volcanic tuff, and alluvial soils that give each micro-region its distinct terroir. Some vineyards are planted on soils so stony you'd think nothing could grow there, but those stones store heat during the day and release it at night, creating perfect conditions for sugar development in the grapes. It's like nature's slow cooker for wine.

At KTW, we were greeted by a guide who looked like he'd been born in a vineyard (he probably was). He led us to the qvevri, giant clay pots buried underground where the magic happens. These things are ancient - literally. Georgians have been fermenting wine in qvevri for millennia, and UNESCO has even recognized the method as part of the world's intangible cultural heritage.

Traditional Georgian wine tasting setup at KTW Winery in Kakheti

We got to taste wine straight from the barrels, and let me tell you, it's a religious experience. The amber wine (made from white grapes but fermented with the skins) was our favorite - nutty, complex, and with a finish that made us want to write poetry. Or at least a strongly worded Yelp review.

But here's the cultural kicker: In Georgia, wine isn't just a beverage - it's a language. The "tamada" (toastmaster) tradition means every sip comes with a story, a blessing, or a piece of wisdom. You don't just drink wine here; you converse with it. And if you're really lucky, you might hear the legend about how when God was dividing up the lands, the Georgians were too busy feasting and toasting to show up. When they finally arrived, all the land was gone, so God gave them the little piece he'd been saving for himself. True or not, after tasting their wine, I totally believe it.

Grandpa Valery's Barbecue: Meat, Bread, and Pure Joy

After a few glasses of wine, we stumbled (literally) to Grandpa Valery's Barbecue, just outside KTW. If you've never had Georgian barbecue, you're missing out on one of life's greatest pleasures. Picture this: juicy, smoky meat, fresh shoti bread baked in a traditional oven, and a side of pickled everything.

Grandpa Valery's legendary Georgian barbecue feast with mtsvadi skewers

Grandpa Valery himself is a legend. He's been grilling meat for longer than we've been alive, and it shows. We devoured mtsvadi (Georgian skewers) and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) like we'd never eaten before (we have, though, since this is not our first foray into the amazing country of Georgia). Pro tip: don't wear tight pants to this meal. You'll regret it.

The thing about Georgian cuisine that blows my mind is how it reflects the geography. The meat dishes come from the mountainous regions where grazing was possible. The bread baked in tone (clay ovens) uses wheat that grows in the valleys. The walnuts in so many dishes? They're everywhere in Georgia. And the spices - marigold petals, blue fenugreek, coriander - they're not just flavor; they're preservation methods developed over centuries. Every bite is basically edible geography.

St. Nino's Cathedral: Where Saints and Legends Collide

St. Nino's Cathedral in Bodbe - pilgrimage site where Georgia's patron saint is buried

Next, we headed to St. Nino's Cathedral in Bodbe. This place is steeped in history and legend. St. Nino, a 4th-century missionary, is credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia. According to legend, she performed miracles, like healing the queen, and converted King Mirian III after he got lost in the dark and prayed to her God for help. Spoiler: it worked.

Peaceful gardens and architecture of St. Nino's Cathedral monastery complex

The cathedral is beautiful, with stunning frescoes and a peaceful garden. It's also the final resting place of St. Nino herself. We lit a candle, said a little prayer, and tried not to think about how much wine we'd already consumed.

Now, the architecture here tells a story too. See those curved arches and domes? That's classic Georgian ecclesiastical architecture, designed to withstand earthquakes (which this region gets plenty of, thanks to the ongoing collision of the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates). The stones are local limestone, quarried from the very hills you can see from here. And if you look closely at the frescoes inside (which we couldn't photograph out of respect), you'll see this fascinating blend of Byzantine style with distinct Georgian elements - elongated figures, specific symbolic gestures, and often grapevines woven into the designs. Because in Georgia, even the saints appreciate good wine.

Georgian shepherd dog keeping watch in the hills near Bodbe monastery

And ah, the feral Georgian shepherd dogs of Bodbe - nature's furry security guards and the unofficial rulers of the countryside. As we wandered near St. Nino's Cathedral, we encountered these majestic, slightly terrifying creatures lounging in the sun like they owned the place. These dogs are no ordinary pups - they're built like tanks, with thick fur, piercing eyes, and a demeanor that says, "I'll protect my flock, but I might also judge your life choices."

Caucasian shepherd dog breed - ancient livestock guardians of Georgian mountains

Legend has it they're descendants of ancient Caucasian sheepdogs, bred to fend off wolves and bears, and honestly, we believe it. One particularly bold dog gave us a look that could only be translated as, "You're lucky I'm off duty," before trotting off to patrol the hills. Respect to these fluffy guardians—they're the true heroes of the Georgian countryside. Just don't try to pet them unless you've got a death wish and a really good insurance plan.

These aren't just random mutts, by the way. They're likely descendants of the Caucasian Shepherd Dog, a breed that's been around for over 2,000 years. They were bred by shepherds in the Caucasus Mountains to protect flocks from wolves, bears, and even (in ancient times) bandits. Their thick double coats protect them from both the brutal winter cold and summer heat of the region. Some folks claim these dogs can weigh up to 200 pounds, though the ones we saw were probably more in the "just bigger than your coffee table" range. Still impressive when they're giving you the side-eye.

Sighnaghi: The Town of Love (and Killer Views)

Colorful architecture and cobblestone streets of Sighnaghi - Georgia's "City of Love"

From Bodbe, we drove to Sighnaghi, a town so charming it should be illegal. Known as the "City of Love," it's famous for its 24/7 wedding registry (yes, really) and its stunning views of the Alazani Valley. The cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses, and flower-filled balconies make it feel like you've stepped into a postcard.

Sighnaghi's town center showcasing 18th-century Georgian urban planning

We wandered the town, popping into little shops selling handmade crafts and, of course, more wine. Sighnaghi is also home to the Sighnaghi Museum, where we learned about the region's history and saw some seriously impressive artifacts.

What's fascinating about Sighnaghi's architecture is how it's adapted to the terrain. The town sits on a steep hillside overlooking the Alazani Valley, so the streets are arranged in a series of terraces. The pastel colors aren't just for Instagram (though they're great for that) - traditionally, different colors indicated different things about the building or its owner. And those wooden balconies with intricate carvings? They're not just decorative; they provide shade in summer and catch sunlight in winter. It's like every building was designed by someone who actually had to live there.

Lunch at Kusika Restaurant & Hotel: Food with a View

Breathtaking Alazani Valley panorama from Kusika Restaurant in Sighnaghi

By this point, we were starving (again), so we headed to Kusika Restaurant & Hotel for lunch. The food was incredible - think khinkali (dumplings), lobio (bean stew), and more khachapuri - but the real star was the view. From the terrace, we could see the Caucasus Mountains in all their glory. It was the kind of view that makes you want to quit your job, move to Georgia, and become a shepherd. 

Those mountains you're looking at? They're not just pretty. The Greater Caucasus Range forms a natural barrier between Europe and Asia, and some of its peaks reach over 5,000 meters (16,400 feet). They're still growing too - the Arabian tectonic plate is pushing north into the Eurasian plate at about 2-3 centimeters per year. That's why Georgia gets earthquakes, but it's also why you get mineral-rich soils perfect for growing grapes. Geology giveth, and geology occasionally shaketh.

Sighnaghi Wall (Great Wall of Georgia): Because One Wall Isn't Enough

Defensive tower on the Sighnaghi Wall - Georgia's 18th-century fortress system

After lunch, we made our way to the Great Wall of Georgia, also known as the Sighnaghi Wall. Built in the 18th century, this thing is no joke. It's 4 kilometers long, with 23 towers and 6 gates. It was designed to protect the town from invaders, and let me tell you, it looks like it could still do the job today.

The Sighnaghi Wall stretching along the ridge with Alazani Valley below

Now here's something cool: The Sighnaghi Wall was built between 1765 and 1772 by King Heraclius II of Kartli-Kakheti. But it wasn't just about keeping invaders out - it was also a statement. See, Georgia has spent much of its history caught between bigger empires (Persian, Ottoman, Russian), so building this wall was like saying "We're still here, and we're not going anywhere." The fact that it follows the natural contours of the hill isn't just good military strategy; it shows how Georgian builders worked with the landscape rather than against it.

We climbed one of the towers for panoramic views of the valley. Standing there, it was easy to imagine the wall in its heyday, with soldiers keeping watch and townspeople going about their daily lives. It's a reminder of Georgia's resilience and its rich, complex history.

Close-up of Sighnaghi Wall's stone construction and defensive architecture

The construction technique is fascinating too. They used local limestone held together with lime mortar, but what's really clever is how they made the walls thicker at the bottom (for stability) and thinner at the top (to save materials and reduce weight). The towers are positioned so each one has a clear line of sight to the next, allowing signals to be passed quickly. And those small windows you see? They're called "loopholes" or "arrow slits" - narrow on the outside but widening on the inside so defenders had a wide field of fire while being hard to hit. It's like medieval military engineering meets Georgian practicality.

Driving Back to Tbilisi: Wine, Memories, and a Food Coma

As the sun began to set, we reluctantly started the drive back to Tbilisi. The road was quiet, the sky was painted in shades of pink and orange, and we were full of wine, food, and gratitude.

Georgia has a way of sneaking into your heart. It's not just the stunning landscapes or the incredible food - it's the people, the history, and the sense that you're part of something much bigger than yourself.

So, if you're ever in Georgia, do yourself a favor: take this road trip. Drink the wine, eat the bread, and let the legends and landscapes work their magic. Just remember to wear stretchy pants.

Next adventure: Tbilisi to Kazbegi via Gudauri and numerous things to see on the way!

Until next time,  

The Vagabond Couple 🍷✨