Alazani Valley, Kakheti from Sighnaghi Wall (Great Wall of Georgia)

Hey there, fellow wanderers! Buckle up, because today we’re taking you on a repeat road trip that’s equal parts history, wine, and questionable decisions (like eating a third helping of shoti bread). We’re heading again from Tbilisi to the Kakheti Valley, Georgia’s wine country, where the grapes are plentiful, the legends are wild, and the barbecue will make you question every life choice that led you to not move here permanently. Just for reference. the story of our prior adventure along this route is here: "A Day Trip Through Kakheti: Wine, History, and Georgian Charm".

The Drive from Tbilisi to Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery

Our adventure began in Tbilisi, Georgia’s capital, where we picked up our trusty rental car (let’s call her Nino, after Georgia’s favorite saint - more on her later). The drive to Kakheti is about two hours, but let’s be real, with Georgian roads, it’s less of a drive and more of a suggestion of movement.

The scenery, though? Absolutely worth it. Rolling hills, vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see, and the occasional cow casually strolling down the road like it owns the place (it probably does). As we got closer to Kakheti, the air smelled faintly of grapes and possibility. Or maybe that was just the wine fumes from the wineries.

Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery: Where Wine is Life

Qvevri at KTW (Kakheti Traditional Wine)

First stop: Kakheti Traditional Wine (KTW) Winery. If you’re thinking, “Oh, another winery,” stop right there. This isn’t just a winery - it’s a time machine. Georgia is the birthplace of wine, with over 8,000 years of winemaking history. That’s right, while your ancestors were figuring out how to make fire, Georgians were already perfecting the art of getting tipsy.

Wine tasting at KTW (Kakheti Traditional Wine)

At KTW, we were greeted by a guide who looked like he’d been born in a vineyard (he probably was). He led us to the qvevri, giant clay pots buried underground where the magic happens. These things are ancient - literally. Georgians have been fermenting wine in qvevri for millennia, and UNESCO has even recognized the method as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage.

Wine tasting at KTW (Kakheti Traditional Wine)

We got to taste wine straight from the barrels, and let me tell you, it’s a religious experience. The amber wine (made from white grapes but fermented with the skins) was our favorite - nutty, complex, and with a finish that made us want to write poetry. Or at least a strongly worded Yelp review.

Grandpa Valery’s Barbecue: Meat, Bread, and Pure Joy

After a few glasses of wine, we stumbled (literally) to Grandpa Valery’s Barbecue, just outside KTW. If you’ve never had Georgian barbecue, you’re missing out on one of life’s greatest pleasures. Picture this: juicy, smoky meat, fresh shoti bread baked in a traditional oven, and a side of pickled everything.

Grandpa Valery’s Barbecue at KTW

Grandpa Valery himself is a legend. He’s been grilling meat for longer than we’ve been alive, and it shows. We devoured mtsvadi (Georgian skewers) and khachapuri (cheese-filled bread) like we’d never eaten before (we have, though, since this is not our first foray into the amazing country of Georgia). Pro tip: don’t wear tight pants to this meal. You’ll regret it.

St. Nino’s Cathedral: Where Saints and Legends Collide

St. Nino’s Cathedral in Bodbe

Next, we headed to St. Nino’s Cathedral in Bodbe. This place is steeped in history and legend. St. Nino, a 4th-century missionary, is credited with bringing Christianity to Georgia. According to legend, she performed miracles, like healing the queen, and converted King Mirian III after he got lost in the dark and prayed to her God for help. Spoiler: it worked.

St. Nino’s Cathedral in Bodbe

The cathedral is beautiful, with stunning frescoes and a peaceful garden. It’s also the final resting place of St. Nino herself. We lit a candle, said a little prayer, and tried not to think about how much wine we’d already consumed.

Georgian shepherd dog

And ah, the feral Georgian shepherd dogs of Bodbe - nature’s furry security guards and the unofficial rulers of the countryside. As we wandered near St. Nino’s Cathedral, we encountered these majestic, slightly terrifying creatures lounging in the sun like they owned the place. These dogs are no ordinary pups - they’re built like tanks, with thick fur, piercing eyes, and a demeanor that says, “I’ll protect my flock, but I might also judge your life choices.”

Georgian shepherd dog

Legend has it they’re descendants of ancient Caucasian sheepdogs, bred to fend off wolves and bears, and honestly, we believe it. One particularly bold dog gave us a look that could only be translated as, “You’re lucky I’m off duty,” before trotting off to patrol the hills. Respect to these fluffy guardians—they’re the true heroes of the Georgian countryside. Just don’t try to pet them unless you’ve got a death wish and a really good insurance plan.

Sighnaghi: The Town of Love (and Killer Views)

Sighnaghi

From Bodbe, we drove to Sighnaghi, a town so charming it should be illegal. Known as the “City of Love,” it’s famous for its 24/7 wedding registry (yes, really) and its stunning views of the Alazani Valley. The cobblestone streets, pastel-colored houses, and flower-filled balconies make it feel like you’ve stepped into a postcard.

Sighnaghi

We wandered the town, popping into little shops selling handmade crafts and, of course, more wine. Sighnaghi is also home to the Sighnaghi Museum, where we learned about the region’s history and saw some seriously impressive artifacts.

Lunch at Kusika Restaurant & Hotel: Food with a View

Alazani Valley, Kakheti viewed from Kusika Restaurant & Hotel, Sighnaghi

By this point, we were starving (again), so we headed to Kusika Restaurant & Hotel for lunch. The food was incredible - think khinkali (dumplings), lobio (bean stew), and more khachapuri - but the real star was the view. From the terrace, we could see the Caucasus Mountains in all their glory. It was the kind of view that makes you want to quit your job, move to Georgia, and become a shepherd. 

Sighnaghi Wall (Great Wall of Georgia): Because One Wall Isn’t Enough

Sighnaghi Wall

After lunch, we made our way to the Great Wall of Georgia, also known as the Sighnaghi Wall. Built in the 18th century, this thing is no joke. It’s 4 kilometers long, with 23 towers and 6 gates. It was designed to protect the town from invaders, and let me tell you, it looks like it could still do the job today.

Sighnaghi Wall

We climbed one of the towers for panoramic views of the valley. Standing there, it was easy to imagine the wall in its heyday, with soldiers keeping watch and townspeople going about their daily lives. It’s a reminder of Georgia’s resilience and its rich, complex history.

Sighnaghi Wall

Driving Back to Tbilisi: Wine, Memories, and a Food Coma

As the sun began to set, we reluctantly started the drive back to Tbilisi. The road was quiet, the sky was painted in shades of pink and orange, and we were full of wine, food, and gratitude.

Georgia has a way of sneaking into your heart. It’s not just the stunning landscapes or the incredible food - it’s the people, the history, and the sense that you’re part of something much bigger than yourself.

So, if you’re ever in Georgia, do yourself a favor: take this road trip. Drink the wine, eat the bread, and let the legends and landscapes work their magic. Just remember to wear stretchy pants.  

Until next time,  

The Vagabond Couple 🍷✨

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from DeepSeek.