Mount Kazbek viewed from Gergeti Trinity Church (Stephantsminda)

Our second road-trip along the military road from Tbilisi to the Russian Border via Gudauri and Kazbegi saw us stopping at a few more interesting places than our prior trip to Georgia. We explored some more of the nature, geology and history of the incredible country of Sakartvelo.

We the Vagabond Couple were pulled back by the mountains and valleys of the Caucasus in Georgia for our second trip here. This is when we made up our mind to eventually move to this spectacular country to live here.

Tbilisi

We start at the Freedom Square located in the heart of Tbilisi, the vibrant and historic spot that reflects the city’s rich past and lively present. The square has seen many changes over the years, from being a central market in the 19th century to witnessing key moments in Georgia’s fight for independence. Today, it’s a bustling area surrounded by shops, cafes, and government buildings, making it a hub for both locals and tourists. The iconic statue of St. George slaying the dragon stands tall in the center, symbolizing freedom and resilience.

Freedom Square, Tbilisi

Freedom Square is not just a place to admire history; it’s a lively part of the city where Georgia’s culture, economy, and daily life come together. The area is also close to Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi’s main cultural and economic artery, where we find theaters, museums, and trendy boutiques.

We will come back to Tbilisi to explore the legendary old town later. For now, we head out of the city on Georgia's Military Highway towards Kazbegi and Russian border.

Zhinvali Reservoir

We stop at the Panorama of Zhinvali Reservoir overview, one of Georgia’s most breathtaking sights, located about an hour’s drive from Tbilisi along the scenic Georgian Military Highway. The drive itself is an adventure, with winding roads offering stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains and lush green valleys.

Zhinvali Reservoir

The Zhinvali Reservoir, a stunning man-made lake in Georgia, was constructed in the 1980s as part of a major hydroelectric project to provide energy and water to the region. Located along the Aragvi River, the reservoir was created by building a large dam, which also helps control flooding and supports irrigation for nearby farmlands.

During its construction, several villages in the area were submerged, and residents were relocated, making it a project with both economic benefits and social challenges. Today, the reservoir is not only a vital source of hydroelectric power but also a popular spot for tourists, offering breathtaking views of its turquoise waters surrounded by green hills and forests - a picture-perfect scene that’s a favorite stop for travelers heading to the nearby Ananuri Fortress.

Ananuri Fortress

Ananuri Fortress

The Ananuri Fortress Complex is a must-see historical gem located along the Georgian Military Highway, about an hour and a half drive from Tbilisi. The journey to Ananuri is as memorable as the destination itself, with scenic views of the Caucasus Mountains and the turquoise waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir along the way.

Ananuri Fortress

Built in the 17th century, the fortress was once the stronghold of the local lords and played a key role in defending the region.

Ananuri Fortress

The stunning churches, towers, and stone walls of Ananuri Fortress offer a glimpse into Georgia’s medieval past. Today, Ananuri is not only a popular tourist attraction but also a symbol of Georgia’s rich cultural heritage. The area around the fortress is peaceful and picturesque, with locals often selling handmade crafts and fresh produce, adding to the region’s economy.

Ananuri Fortress along Aragvi River

The Ananuri Fortress, located along the Aragvi River in Georgia, has a dramatic history tied to the rise and fall of powerful warlords. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the fortress served as the stronghold of the Dukes of Aragvi, a feudal dynasty that controlled the region.

Ananuri Fortress

The Aragvi lords were known for their fierce battles and strategic alliances, often clashing with rival warlords and neighboring clans.

Ananuri Fortress

One of the most infamous events in Ananuri’s history was the bloody feud between the Aragvi and their rivals, the Shaburidze family, which led to the massacre of the Aragvi clan in 1739.

Ananuri Fortress

After this, the fortress fell into the hands of the Shaburidze family, but their rule was short-lived, as the region eventually came under the control of the Kingdom of Kartli.

Ananuri Fortress

Throughout its history, Ananuri was not only a military stronghold but also a center of administration and culture, with its churches serving as places of worship and artistic expression.

Ananuri Fortress

A visit to Ananuri combines history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a perfect stop on any Georgian adventure.

The stretch of the Aragvi River between the Ananuri Fortress and the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers is a paradise for outdoor lovers. This area, located along the scenic Georgian Military Highway, offers stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains and lush green valleys, making the drive an adventure in itself. Kayaking here is a thrilling experience, with calm waters perfect for beginners and exciting rapids for more experienced paddlers. For river rafters, Rafting the river also offers a range of experiences from gentle flows perfect for beginners to challenging rapids for seasoned rafters. As you paddle through the turquoise waters, you’ll be surrounded by the stunning landscapes of the Caucasus Mountains and lush green valleys.

Aragvi  River rafting

Along the riverbanks, you’ll find peaceful spots for camping and picnicking, where you can enjoy fresh air and the sound of flowing water. The region is steeped in history, with Ananuri Fortress standing as a reminder of Georgia’s medieval past and the power struggles of local warlords.

Today, the area also supports the local economy through tourism, with small businesses offering raft rides,  kayak rentals, homemade food and handmade crafts. Whether you’re exploring the river, relaxing by the water, or learning about Georgia’s rich culture, this part of the Aragvi River is a perfect escape into nature and history.

White Aragvi and Black Aragvi River Confluence

The Legend of the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi

White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers meet just south of Pasanauri

According to the Georgian legend, the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi were once two sisters, one fair and the other dark, who lived in the mountains of Georgia. The sisters were deeply devoted to each other, but their lives took a tragic turn when they fell in love with the same man, a handsome and brave warrior.

The warrior, unable to choose between the two sisters, decided to test their love. He told them that he would marry the one who could prove her love by performing a great feat. The fair sister, representing the White Aragvi, decided to climb the highest mountain and bring back a rare flower that grew only at its peak. The dark sister, representing the Black Aragvi, chose to dive into the deepest lake and retrieve a precious stone hidden in its depths.

Both sisters succeeded in their tasks, but when they returned, the warrior was gone. Heartbroken and unable to bear the thought of living without him, the sisters decided to end their lives. The fair sister threw herself from the mountain, and her tears formed the White Aragvi River. The dark sister plunged into the lake, and her sorrow created the Black Aragvi River.

The two rivers, representing the sisters, flow side by side but never mix, symbolizing their eternal separation. Their confluence is a poignant reminder of their unfulfilled love and the tragic consequences of their rivalry.

The confluence of the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers, just south of the town of Pasanauri, is one of Georgia’s most fascinating natural wonders. Located along the Georgian Military Highway, at the confluence, the two rivers meet but don’t immediately mix, creating a striking contrast between the light, silvery waters of the White Aragvi and the darker, deeper tones of the Black Aragvi. This unique phenomenon has made the site a popular stop for travelers and photographers. The area is also rich in history, as it lies along the ancient Silk Road that has shaped the region’s culture and economy for centuries.

Rafting on Aragvi  River

The confluence of the White Aragvi and Black Aragvi rivers is a mesmerizing natural phenomenon where the two rivers meet but keep their distinct colors for a short distance. The White Aragvi gets its lighter, silvery hue from the glacial sediments and minerals it carries as it flows down from the snowy peaks of the Caucasus Mountains. In contrast, the Black Aragvi, which originates from forested areas and volcanic rocks, has a darker, deeper tone due to the organic materials and different mineral content in its waters. This striking contrast happens because the two rivers have different sources and flow through unique landscapes, creating a visual spectacle that highlights Georgia’s diverse geography.

Carbonated Natural Mineral Water

The Natural Sparkling Spring near Ganisi, Georgia, is another hidden gem that offers a unique and refreshing experience for travelers: Carbonated Natural Mineral Water! Located in the Kazbegi region, the drive to Ganisi continues through the stunning Georgian Military Highway, with breathtaking views of the Caucasus Mountains and lush valleys.

The spring’s water is naturally carbonated, bubbling straight from the ground due to the area’s volcanic geology, which adds minerals and gases to the water. This natural phenomenon has been known to locals for centuries, and the spring holds a special place in the region’s history and culture. Today, the spring attracts visitors who come to taste the fizzy water and enjoy the peaceful surroundings.

Natural sparkling spring, Ganisi

In the Kazbegi region, where Ganisi is located, the Caucasus Mountains were formed by tectonic collisions, creating a landscape rich in volcanic rocks and minerals. As rainwater and snowmelt seep into the ground, they travel through layers of rock, dissolving carbon dioxide (CO₂) and minerals along the way. This CO₂ originates from magma chambers or volcanic gases deep underground. When the water reaches the surface through natural springs, the pressure decreases, causing the dissolved CO₂ to bubble out, creating the fizzy, sparkling effect.

Natural sparkling spring, Ganisi

The water of the Natural Sparkling Spring also picks up minerals like calcium and magnesium, giving it a unique taste and potential health benefits. This natural process, combined with the region’s volcanic geology, makes the Ganisi spring a rare and scientifically intriguing destination.

Gudauri

Gudauri, a stunning ski resort in Georgia, is famous for its breathtaking panorama views of the Caucasus Mountains. Located about 120 kilometers from Tbilisi along the Georgian Military Highway, the drive to Gudauri is an adventure in itself, with winding roads offering jaw-dropping views of deep valleys, rugged peaks, and sparkling rivers.

Gudauri

The entire region’s geology is shaped by tectonic activity, creating dramatic landscapes with towering mountains like Mount Kazbek, a dormant volcano, and the surrounding ranges.

Gudauri

Gudauri is not just a winter paradise for skiers and snowboarders; in summer, it’s a hub for hiking, paragliding, and enjoying the fresh mountain air.

Gudauri

The area also has a rich history, as it lies along the ancient Silk Road that connected Europe and Asia.

Gudauri

Georgia Russia Friendship Monument

The Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument located here is a colorful and historic landmark perched on a cliff overlooking the stunning Caucasus Mountains. Built in 1983 to celebrate the bicentennial of the Treaty of Georgievsk, which linked Georgia and Russia, the monument features a large circular structure adorned with vibrant mosaics depicting scenes from Georgian and Russian history.

Georgia-Russia Friendship Monument

While the monument’s historical and cultural context is complex, it remains a popular stop for tourists, contributing to the local economy through tourism.

Gudauri

Today, Gudauri plays a key role in Georgia’s economy, attracting tourists year-round and supporting local businesses. The natural wonders like the Zhinvali Reservoir and the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers that we visited are nearby, adding to the region’s charm. Gudauri is a perfect blend of natural beauty, adventure, and Georgian culture, making it a must-visit destination.

Proceeding on the Georgian Military Road, we cross the high mountain Jvari Pass, a high mountain pass that offers some of the most spectacular views in Georgia. Sitting at an elevation of 2,379 meters, it marks the border between Georgia and Russia and is surrounded by the towering peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, including the majestic Mount Kazbek. The drive to Jvari Pass continues to be an adventure, with winding roads cutting through dramatic landscapes of deep valleys, rugged cliffs, and crystal-clear rivers like the Terek river. Nearby, you’ll find natural wonders like the serene Gveleti Waterfall and the sparkling Zhinvali Reservoir which we visited.

Travertine Mineral Springs

We come across the Travertine Mineral Springs along the Georgian Military Road.

Ancient Mineral Water Faucet at Travertine Mineral Springs, Georgia

These springs are as beautiful as the red mineral springs next to the legendary Pamukkale in Turkey (see "Pamukkale, Hierapolis and Karahayit - Perfect Day Trip from Istanbul Turkey"). The Travertine Mineral Springs of Georgia too are a unique natural wonder that showcase Georgia’s stunning geology. These springs are formed by mineral-rich waters that flow from the ground, depositing layers of travertine, a type of limestone, over time. The result is a series of terraced pools with striking white and orange hues, surrounded by the dramatic landscapes of the Caucasus Mountains.

Travertine Mineral Springs

The red and white terraced travertine mineral springs, like those found in Turkey (Pamukkale) and Georgia, are formed through a fascinating geological process involving water, minerals, and time. These springs are created when groundwater, heated by geothermal activity deep within the Earth, rises to the surface carrying dissolved calcium carbonate (CaCO₃) and other minerals. As the water emerges and cools, it releases carbon dioxide (CO₂), causing the calcium carbonate to solidify into travertine, a type of limestone. This process creates the iconic white terraces that are often seen in these formations.

Travertine Mineral Springs

The red or orange hues in some travertine terraces come from the presence of iron oxide and other minerals, which are also dissolved in the water. These minerals oxidize upon contact with air, giving the terraces their warm, reddish tones.

Travertine Mineral Springs

Over time, the continuous flow of mineral-rich water builds up layers of travertine, forming the stepped, terraced structures that are both visually stunning and scientifically intriguing. In both Turkey and Georgia, the geological activity that drives these springs is linked to tectonic plate movements, which create fractures in the Earth’s crust, allowing heated groundwater to rise. The result is a breathtaking natural phenomenon that combines geology, chemistry, and time, offering a unique glimpse into the Earth’s dynamic processes. These travertine terraces are not only beautiful but also serve as a reminder of the powerful natural forces that shape our planet.

Travertine Mineral Springs

A visit to the Travertine Mineral Springs is a perfect way to experience Georgia’s natural beauty, history, and culture while enjoying a peaceful and rejuvenating stop along the Military Road.

Continuing on Georgia Military Highway: Mountains, Baidara River, Narvani River

Continuing on Georgia Military Highway along the Baidara River, at the Narvani River of Georgia, we catch a glimpse of the construction of E117 International Road section of Kvesheti-Kobi highway by China Railway 23rd Bureau Group Co., Ltd.

Construction of E117 International Road section of Kvesheti-Kobi highway

According to the Roads of Georgia official project website, "construction of 12.7 km long, two-lane asphalt-concrete road, 5 bridges and 4 tunnels, as well as the rehabilitation of 1 bridge is planned. The dimensions of the tunnels are1541 m, 194 m, 388 m and 299 m. The total length of the bridges is 1.6 km. One of them will be a 426 m long and 166 m high arched bridge, which is the most difficult engineering construction. The length of its arch is 285 meters and, at this stage, it has no analogues in Georgia."

Construction of E117 International Road section of Kvesheti-Kobi highway

Furthermore, the information on the website continues, "the project also envisages the construction of 435 m long and relatively small (322 m, 218 m, 148 m and 42 m) bridges. In addition to the main road infrastructure components, the project includes setting up a visitor center. This facility will serve as a potential center for agribusiness, conservation, ecotourism development and community sustainable development in the project area. The visitor center is a part of the project and it will directly benefit the local population of Khadi valley. The construction of the Kvesheti-Kobi tunnel started in 2020 and will be completed in 2025."

Lunch Break: Khinkali at Tsanareti

Tsanareti restaurant

Hungry by this time, we stopped for the famous Khinkali at Tsanareti restaurant - a must-try experience for anyone visiting Georgia. It is located on highway E117 in the town of Arsha.

Tsanareti restaurant, E117, Arsha, Georgia

The restaurant is located in a beautiful courtyard surrounded by lush greenery and stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains. The peaceful atmosphere makes it a perfect spot to enjoy this traditional Georgian dish.

Tsanareti restaurant, E117, Arsha, Georgia

Khinkali, a type of dumpling filled with spiced meat, herbs, and broth, is a staple of Georgian cuisine and reflects the country’s rich culinary history. Tsanareti restaurant not only offers delicious food but also supports the local economy by using fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Tsanareti restaurant, E117, Arsha, Georgia

The surrounding mountains add to the cultural charm, as this region has been a crossroads of trade and culture for centuries. Dining here feels like a journey through Georgia’s history, nature, and traditions.

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the Gergeti Trinity Church

Gergeti Trinity Church and Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) town in valley below

Kazbegi (also known as Stephantsminda) and the Gergeti Trinity Church are hands down one of the most breathtaking places we have ever visited. Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, the tiny town of Kazbegi feels like it’s straight out of a postcard.

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) town viewed from Gergeti Trinity Church

The church sits high on a hill, surrounded by jagged peaks and rolling green valleys. On a clear day, you can see Mount Kazbek, one of the highest mountains in Georgia, towering in the background.

Gergeti Trinity Church, Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)

It’s no wonder this place feels so magical; it’s steeped in history and local legends. The Gergeti Trinity Church itself is a stunning piece of Georgian architecture. Built in the 14th century, it’s made of stone and has this simple, rugged beauty that fits perfectly with the wild landscape around it.

Inside entrance door at Gergeti Trinity Church

Stepping inside the Gergeti Trinity Church feels like stepping back in time. The interior is simple yet deeply spiritual, with stone walls that have stood strong for centuries.

Entrance to Gergeti Trinity Church

The space is small and intimate, with a quiet, reverent atmosphere that makes you want to whisper. The walls are adorned with a few old icons and religious paintings, their colors faded but still beautiful, telling stories of faith and devotion.

A closed door at Gergeti Trinity Church

The light filtering in through small windows creates a soft, golden glow, adding to the church’s peaceful vibe. There’s a sense of history here; you can almost feel the prayers and ceremonies that have taken place over hundreds of years.

Gergeti Trinity Church

It’s not fancy or ornate, but that’s what makes it so special. The simplicity of the Gergeti Trinity Church lets you focus on the spiritual connection and the incredible history of this sacred place.

Inside entrance door at Gergeti Trinity Church Entrance

Back in the day, the church was a safe haven for precious religious relics during invasions. It’s still an active place of worship, and you can feel the deep spiritual connection the locals have to it. We met a few villagers who told us stories about how the church is a symbol of strength and faith for the people here. One local even shared a folklore tale about Mount Kazbek being the place where Prometheus was chained as punishment for giving fire to humans. How cool is that?

View of Mt. Kazbeg and the High Caucasus Mountains from Gergeti Trinity Church

Also according to local folklore, the mountain is named after a man named Kazbegi, who was known for his bravery and strength. The story goes that Kazbegi had a wife who was equally courageous and wise. Together, they were said to have protected their village from invaders and natural disasters. The tale of Kazbegi and his wife is deeply rooted in the region’s culture, symbolizing resilience and unity.

Gergeti Trinity Church

The Trinity Fountain near the Gergeti Trinity Church is a small but meaningful addition to this iconic site. Tucked into the rugged landscape, the fountain is a simple stone structure with fresh, icy water flowing from a spout. The water comes directly from the mountains, making it incredibly pure and refreshing - perfect for a quick drink after the hike or drive up to the church.

Trinity Fountain at Gergeti Trinity Church

The Trinity fountain blends seamlessly with the natural and spiritual surroundings, adding a touch of practicality to the serene atmosphere. Locals and visitors often stop here to rest, hydrate, and take in the stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains and the valley below. It’s a humble yet essential part of the experience, reminding you of the harmony between nature, history, and daily life in this sacred place.

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) town viewed from Gergeti Trinity Church

The drive up to the church is an adventure in itself. You can hike, take a 4x4, or even ride a horse if you’re feeling brave. The views along the way are unreal; endless valleys, rivers cutting through the landscape, and sheep grazing on the hillsides.

Mt. Kazbeg view from Gergeti Trinity Church

The air is so fresh and crisp, it’s like nature’s way of hitting the reset button. We spent hours just sitting near the church, taking in the peacefulness and chatting with locals. They’re some of the warmest, most welcoming people we have ever met, and they’re proud to share their culture and stories with visitors.

Mount Kazbeg view from Gergeti Trinity Church

Kazbegi isn’t just a place to see; it’s a place to feel. Whether it’s the awe-inspiring mountains, the rich history, or the sense of community, this spot has a way of staying with you long after you leave. If you’re ever in Georgia, don’t miss it; it’s a slice of heaven on earth.

Georgia - Russia Verkhniy Lars Border

We drive all the way to the Verkhniy Lars border crossing which is the only land border between Georgia and Russia. The route takes us through the dramatic Dariali Gorge, with towering cliffs and the roaring Terek River alongside the road.

Georgia - Russia Verkhniy Lars International Land Border

Located in the rugged Caucasus Mountains, Verkhniy-Lars border is a crucial point for travelers and trade, connecting Georgia’s Kazbegi region with Russia’s North Ossetia. The drive to the border is stunning, with winding roads cutting through dramatic mountain landscapes and deep valleys.

However, crossing here can be unpredictable; weather conditions, especially in winter, often cause delays or closures. The border itself is a mix of modern infrastructure and old-school checkpoints, with strict controls on both sides.

For travelers, it’s a gateway between two very different worlds, but the real highlight is the breathtaking scenery that surrounds it. Just make sure to check the status before you go, as the mountains love to keep things interesting!

Georgia - Russia Verkhniy Lars International Land Border

We will cross this border into Russia another day! For now, we turn around and head back to Tbilisi. As we leave the rugged mountains near the border, the landscape gradually softens into rolling hills and lush valleys. We again pass through the charming town of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), The Georgian Military Highway, though winding and sometimes bumpy, offers incredible views at every turn. As we get closer to Tbilisi, the terrain flattens, and the vibe shifts from wild and remote to bustling and urban. The drive back takes about three to four hours.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from DeepSeek.