Mount Kazbek's 5,033-meter peak watches over the Gergeti Trinity Church like a stone guardian

Okay, confession time: Georgia has this weird gravitational pull on us. Seriously, after our first trip along the Georgian Military Highway, we were basically planning our return before we'd even left. This time around, we decided to slow down and dig deeper into all the crazy geology, history, and postcard-perfect landscapes Sakartvelo (that's Georgia's real name, by the way) has to offer.

Honestly, this second road trip along the iconic Military Highway sealed the deal. It's when we looked at each other and said, "Yep, we need to figure out how to live here." The Caucasus mountains just do that to you - they're like the world's most persuasive real estate agents.

Watch: Our road trip from Tbilisi to Kazbegi in 4K glory (it's even better in person, trust me)

Tbilisi: Where Old Meets Bold

We kicked things off at Freedom Square in Tbilisi, which is basically the city's living room. This place has seen it all - from 19th-century markets to Soviet parades to modern independence celebrations. Today it's a buzzing hub where you'll find everything from government buildings to tourists trying to take the perfect shot of the massive St. George statue slaying that dragon. Pro tip: the dragon looks way more intimidating when you're standing right under it.

Freedom Square - Where Tbilisi's past, present, and future all hang out together

The square isn't just a history lesson - it's where Georgia's pulse beats loudest. Wander a few blocks and you hit Rustaveli Avenue, which is basically Tbilisi's runway for culture vultures (think theaters, museums, and enough trendy shops to empty your wallet). But enough city life - we were itching for mountains. Time to hit the legendary Georgian Military Highway toward Kazbegi and the Russian border!

Zhinvali Reservoir: The Turquoise Jewel

About an hour out of Tbilisi, the Panorama of Zhinvali Reservoir hits you like a visual espresso shot. This isn't just some random lake - it's a massive man-made reservoir created in the 1980s that actually submerged several villages. Talk about progress with a bittersweet aftertaste!

Zhinvali Reservoir - Proof that hydroelectric projects can be ridiculously photogenic

Today, Zhinvali serves triple duty: hydroelectric power source, flood controller, and Instagram magnet. That insane turquoise color comes from glacial rock flour - basically, mountains getting ground up and turning the water into liquid gemstones. The reservoir sits on the Aragvi River and creates the perfect foreground for the star of the next show: Ananuri Fortress.

Ananuri Fortress: Game of Thrones Georgian-Style

If medieval fortresses had a dating profile, Ananuri's would say: "17th-century stone fortress with panoramic views, seeks photographers and history buffs." This place is the real deal - no CGI required.

Ananuri Fortress - Medieval masterpiece with better views than your penthouse apartment

The fortress was basically the headquarters of the Dukes of Aragvi - think medieval Georgian mafia bosses who controlled this crucial trade route. Their reign ended in 1739 with a particularly nasty family feud (more on that drama soon).

Ananuri's defensive walls - Built to survive everything except Instagram tourism

The fortress complex is actually two churches in one - the smaller Church of the Virgin (built in the first half of the 17th century) and the larger Church of the Assumption (built later that century). The larger church is the real showstopper with its intricate stone carvings of animals, crosses, and grapes that tell stories of faith and feudal power. The grapevine motifs are particularly Georgian - a nod to the country's 8,000-year winemaking history.

Stone carvings at Ananuri - Medieval artists showing off 600 years before Photoshop

What's fascinating about Ananuri is how it served multiple purposes. It wasn't just a military stronghold - it was an administrative center, religious site, and economic hub all rolled into one. The Aragvi lords collected taxes from merchants traveling along the Military Highway (basically an ancient toll road), controlled local agriculture, and played politics with neighboring kingdoms.

Strategic position of Ananuri Fortress controlling the Aragvi River valley trade route

The Bloody Drama Behind the Stone Walls

So about that family feud... The Aragvi clan ruled from Ananuri until 1739 when their rivals, the Shaburidze family, decided they wanted the prime real estate. What followed was essentially a medieval Georgian version of "Game of Thrones" - complete with betrayal, massacres, and power grabs. The Shaburidzes attacked during a feast (rude!), slaughtered the Aragvis, and took over. Their victory party didn't last long though - soon the Kingdom of Kartli absorbed everything.

Defensive tower at Ananuri - Where Aragvi lords watched for enemies (and great sunsets)

The Aragvi-Shaburidze conflict wasn't just about real estate - it represented a larger power struggle between local feudal lords and the centralizing Kingdom of Kartli. Georgia in the 18th century was fragmented, with various kingdoms and principalities vying for control. Ananuri, positioned on a crucial trade route between the lowlands and highlands, was a prize worth fighting for.

Multi-level fortress design - Medieval Georgian architects knew how to build for both war and beauty

After the Shaburidze takeover, the fortress eventually fell into disuse. Earthquakes in the 19th century caused significant damage, and by the Soviet era, it was essentially a picturesque ruin. Restoration efforts began in the late 20th century, and today it's one of Georgia's most visited historical sites, attracting over 100,000 visitors annually.

Stone masonry details - Each rock placed by hand centuries before power tools existed

The construction techniques at Ananuri are fascinating. The builders used local stone, mostly slate and basalt, and employed a technique called "rubble masonry" - irregular stones set in thick mortar. The thicker walls at the base (up to 1.5 meters thick) taper as they rise, providing stability against earthquakes, which are common in this seismically active region.

Ananuri's natural integration - The fortress doesn't sit on the land; it grows from it

Today, Ananuri is far more peaceful. You'll find locals selling honey, churchkhela (those candle-shaped grape and nut snacks), and handmade crafts. It's a UNESCO World Heritage tentative site and appears in countless travel blogs, Instagram feeds, and even the opening credits of travel shows. The site generates significant tourism revenue for the local community, supporting guides, artisans, and small businesses.

Ananuri in context - How a medieval fortress commands an entire landscape

A visit to Ananuri combines history, culture, and natural beauty, making it a perfect stop on any Georgian adventure. The best time to visit is early morning or late afternoon when the light paints the stones golden and the tour buses haven't arrived yet. Bring good walking shoes - the uneven stone steps have been tripping people up since the 1600s!

White & Black Aragvi: Nature's Yin-Yang

The Tragic Love Legend

Georgians love a good dramatic legend, and the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers comes with a heartbreaker. Story goes: two sisters - one fair, one dark - fell for the same warrior dude. Unable to choose, he set them impossible tasks. The fair sister climbed a mountain for a rare flower; the dark sister dove into a lake for a precious stone. Both succeeded... only to find he'd vanished. Heartbroken, they transformed into rivers - their tears creating the White and Black Aragvi that flow together but never mix, eternal symbols of unfulfilled love.

White and Black Aragvi confluence - Nature's own heartbreaking love story in liquid form

The Science Behind the Magic

The real reason these rivers don't immediately mix is less romantic but equally fascinating. The White Aragvi gets its milky color from glacial flour - ultra-fine rock particles ground by glaciers. The Black Aragvi (which is actually more brown) gets its hue from tannins and organic matter washing out of forested areas. They have different densities, temperatures, and mineral contents, creating this natural line in the water that lasts for hundreds of meters before finally blending.

Aragvi River rafting - Because why just look at rivers when you can ride them?

This area is adventure central. The Aragvi offers everything from gentle kayaking to white-water rafting that'll make you question your life choices (in a good way). Local operators provide gear and guides, making it accessible even if your previous rafting experience was in a bathtub. The rafting season typically runs from May to October, with water levels peaking in late spring from snowmelt.

White water adventure on the Aragvi - Where you get adrenaline and amazing views

The Aragvi River system is crucial for Georgia's ecology and economy. It supports diverse fish populations (including the rare Caucasian trout), provides irrigation for agriculture, and generates hydroelectric power. The river's name comes from the Georgian word "aragvi," which means "swift" or "rapid" - a fitting name for these fast-moving waters that have carved their way through the Caucasus for millennia.

Nature's Soda: Ganisi's Sparkling Spring

Okay, this might be Georgia's coolest party trick. Near Ganisi in the Kazbegi region, there's a spring where the water comes out already carbonated. No machines, no added CO₂ - just nature making its own sparkling mineral water.

Ganisi's sparkling spring - Nature's own soda fountain, no coins required

Geology lesson time: The Caucasus region sits on massive tectonic activity. Rainwater seeps deep underground, gets charged with volcanic CO₂ and minerals like calcium and magnesium, then bubbles back up under pressure. When it reaches the surface - voilà! Natural sparkling water. It's like Perrier, but with better scenery and zero plastic bottles.

Natural carbonation in action - Earth's version of a soda stream machine

Locals have known about this spring for centuries, attributing health benefits to its mineral-rich waters. Today, you'll see everyone from curious tourists to grandmothers filling bottles. The taste is distinctive - slightly metallic from the minerals, with that satisfying fizzy bite. Pro tip: bring an empty bottle and enjoy the world's most sustainable sparkling water!

Gudauri: Georgia's Alpine Playground

Gudauri is where Georgia shows off its winter chops. At 2,200 meters, this ski resort gets dumped on by perfect powder snow from December to April. But here's the secret: it's just as awesome in summer when the slopes turn into hiking and paragliding paradise.

Gudauri in winter - Where skiers and snowboarders come to worship the powder gods

The geology here is basically Earth showing off. You're looking at the collision zone of the Arabian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which created the towering peaks around you. Mount Kazbek, that gorgeous dormant volcano visible on clear days, last erupted around 750 BC but could theoretically wake up again (don't worry, geologists are watching).

Gudauri in summer - When the ski slopes become hiking trails and paragliding launch pads

Gudauri's development is a fascinating case study in post-Soviet tourism. Originally developed in the 1980s as a Soviet ski resort, it fell into disrepair after the USSR collapsed. Since Georgia's independence, massive investment (including from the Georgian government and international developers) has transformed it into a world-class destination with modern lifts, hotels, and infrastructure.

Gudauri's modern infrastructure - Where Soviet foundations meet 21st-century tourism

The Friendship Monument: Soviet Rainbows & Complex History

Perched dramatically on a cliff near Gudauri sits the circular structure covered in vibrant mosaics depicting Georgian and Russian history. Built in 1983 to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Treaty of Georgievsk, it's... complicated.

Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument - Soviet-era rainbows with complex historical baggage

The monument represents a relationship that's been... let's say "turbulent." The Treaty of Georgievsk (1783) made Georgia a protectorate of the Russian Empire, beginning centuries of complex political and cultural entanglement. Today, the monument stands as both a tourist photo spot and a reminder of this layered history. The views from here are absolutely mind-blowing though - you can see multiple valleys and peaks.

Gudauri's dramatic landscape - Where every direction looks like a National Geographic cover

Today, Gudauri plays a key role in Georgia's economy, attracting tourists year-round and supporting local businesses. The natural wonders like the Zhinvali Reservoir and the confluence of the White and Black Aragvi rivers that we visited are nearby, adding to the region's charm. Gudauri is a perfect blend of natural beauty, adventure, and Georgian culture, making it a must-visit destination.

The scale of Gudauri - A tiny human presence in an overwhelming natural cathedral

Proceeding on the Georgian Military Road, we cross the high mountain Jvari Pass, a high mountain pass that offers some of the most spectacular views in Georgia. Sitting at an elevation of 2,379 meters, it marks the border between Georgia and Russia and is surrounded by the towering peaks of the Caucasus Mountains, including the majestic Mount Kazbek. The drive to Jvari Pass continues to be an adventure, with winding roads cutting through dramatic landscapes of deep valleys, rugged cliffs, and crystal-clear rivers like the Terek river. Nearby, you'll find natural wonders like the serene Gveleti Waterfall and the sparkling Zhinvali Reservoir which we visited.

Travertine Springs: Georgia's Mini-Pamukkale

Remember those iconic white terraces in Turkey's Pamukkale? Georgia has its own version! The Travertine Mineral Springs along the Military Highway create stunning terraced pools formed by mineral-rich waters.

Ancient mineral faucet - Where Georgians have been getting their spa fix for centuries

Science corner: These terraces form when geothermal water saturated with calcium carbonate rises to the surface. As the water cools and loses carbon dioxide, the calcium carbonate solidifies into travertine limestone. The red and orange colors come from iron oxide - basically, rust created by minerals oxidizing. It's like watching Earth build its own staircase, one microscopic layer at a time.

Travertine terraces - Nature's stairmaster, built over thousands of years

These springs have been used since ancient times for their supposed therapeutic properties. The water contains sulfur, calcium, magnesium, and other minerals that people believe help with skin conditions and joint pain. Whether or not it heals anything, soaking your feet in these natural pools after hours of driving is pure bliss.

Layered travertine deposits - Reading Earth's history in stone and mineral

The travertine terraces grow at a rate of about 1-5 centimeters per year, depending on water flow and mineral concentration. The ones we see today have been forming for thousands of years. The process is similar to how stalactites and stalagmites form in caves, just happening outdoors where we can enjoy them.

Mineral rainbow - Iron oxide creating nature's own paint palette in stone

Over time, the continuous flow of mineral-rich water builds up layers of travertine, forming the stepped, terraced structures that are both visually stunning and scientifically intriguing. In both Turkey and Georgia, the geological activity that drives these springs is linked to tectonic plate movements, which create fractures in the Earth's crust, allowing heated groundwater to rise. The result is a breathtaking natural phenomenon that combines geology, chemistry, and time, offering a unique glimpse into the Earth's dynamic processes. These travertine terraces are not only beautiful but also serve as a reminder of the powerful natural forces that shape our planet.

Travertine landscape integration - Where geology becomes art on a massive scale

A visit to the Travertine Mineral Springs is a perfect way to experience Georgia's natural beauty, history, and culture while enjoying a peaceful and rejuvenating stop along the Military Road.

Engineering Marvel: The Kvesheti-Kobi Highway

As we continued along the Military Highway, we witnessed one of Georgia's biggest infrastructure projects: the Kvesheti-Kobi highway being built by China Railway 23rd Bureau Group. This isn't just another road - it's a 12.7 km engineering extravaganza with 5 bridges and 4 tunnels.

Kvesheti-Kobi highway construction - Georgia building its future, one tunnel at a time

According to the official project website, the star of the show will be a 426-meter-long arched bridge standing 166 meters high - the first of its kind in Georgia. The project also includes a visitor center designed to boost agribusiness and ecotourism in the Khadi Valley. Scheduled for completion in 2025, this highway will revolutionize travel through the Caucasus, cutting travel times and making remote communities more accessible.

Engineering in extreme terrain - Building roads where mountains say "you shall not pass"

Furthermore, the information on the website continues, "the project also envisages the construction of 435 m long and relatively small (322 m, 218 m, 148 m and 42 m) bridges. In addition to the main road infrastructure components, the project includes setting up a visitor center. This facility will serve as a potential center for agribusiness, conservation, ecotourism development and community sustainable development in the project area. The visitor center is a part of the project and it will directly benefit the local population of Khadi valley. The construction of the Kvesheti-Kobi tunnel started in 2020 and will be completed in 2025."

Khinkali Break: Georgia's Delicious Dumplings

By this point, our stomachs were staging a rebellion. Solution? Khinkali at Tsanareti restaurant in Arsha. For the uninitiated, khinkali are Georgian dumplings filled with spiced meat, herbs, and a magical broth that'll make you forget all other dumplings.

Tsanareti restaurant - Where khinkali dreams come true with mountain views

Khinkali etiquette 101: 1) Eat with your hands (forks are for amateurs), 2) Bite a small hole first to slurp the broth (avoid geyser-like burns), 3) Leave the doughy top knot on your plate (it's your dumpling counter), 4) Traditional fillings include spiced beef/pork, mushroom, or potato/cheese. We demolished about eight each and regretted nothing.

Tsanareti's garden - Where you dine surrounded by Caucasus beauty

The restaurant is located in a beautiful courtyard surrounded by lush greenery and stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains. The peaceful atmosphere makes it a perfect spot to enjoy this traditional Georgian dish.

Traditional dining at Tsanareti - Where every meal feels like a Georgian celebration

Khinkali, a type of dumpling filled with spiced meat, herbs, and broth, is a staple of Georgian cuisine and reflects the country's rich culinary history. Tsanareti restaurant not only offers delicious food but also supports the local economy by using fresh, locally sourced ingredients.

Tsanareti's setting - Proof that location is everything, even for dumplings

The surrounding mountains add to the cultural charm, as this region has been a crossroads of trade and culture for centuries. Dining here feels like a journey through Georgia's history, nature, and traditions.

Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the Gergeti Trinity Church

If Georgia's Military Highway has a crown jewel, it's Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) and the Gergeti Trinity Church. This place is so ridiculously photogenic it feels like cheating. The 14th-century church sits alone on a hill at 2,170 meters, with Mount Kazbek's 5,033-meter volcanic peak looming behind like a protective giant.

Gergeti Trinity Church with Stepantsminda below - Georgia's most iconic view

Kazbegi (also known as Stepantsminda) and the Gergeti Trinity Church are hands down one of the most breathtaking places we have ever visited. Nestled in the heart of the Caucasus Mountains, the tiny town of Kazbegi feels like it's straight out of a postcard.

Stepantsminda town - Where everyone wakes up to postcard views daily

The church sits high on a hill, surrounded by jagged peaks and rolling green valleys. On a clear day, you can see Mount Kazbek, one of the highest mountains in Georgia, towering in the background.

Gergeti Trinity Church - Where medieval faith meets mountain majesty

It's no wonder this place feels so magical; it's steeped in history and local legends. The Gergeti Trinity Church itself is a stunning piece of Georgian architecture. Built in the 14th century, it's made of stone and has this simple, rugged beauty that fits perfectly with the wild landscape around it.

Church entrance - A portal to 14th-century Georgia

Stepping inside the Gergeti Trinity Church feels like stepping back in time. The interior is simple yet deeply spiritual, with stone walls that have stood strong for centuries.

Ancient doorway - Each stone placed by hands long gone, yet still standing strong

The space is small and intimate, with a quiet, reverent atmosphere that makes you want to whisper. The walls are adorned with a few old icons and religious paintings, their colors faded but still beautiful, telling stories of faith and devotion.

Ancient door - Guarding secrets and stories from Georgia's medieval past

The light filtering in through small windows creates a soft, golden glow, adding to the church's peaceful vibe. There's a sense of history here; you can almost feel the prayers and ceremonies that have taken place over hundreds of years.

Church and mountains - A conversation between human creation and natural wonder

It's not fancy or ornate, but that's what makes it so special. The simplicity of the Gergeti Trinity Church lets you focus on the spiritual connection and the incredible history of this sacred place.

View from within - Framing the Caucasus through ancient stone

Mythology & Mountain Lore

Mount Kazbek isn't just another pretty peak. In Greek mythology, this is where Prometheus was chained as punishment for giving fire to humans. Georgian legends say Amirani (their version of Prometheus) was imprisoned here. The mountain's Georgian name, "Mkinvartsveri," means "glacier peak" or "ice mountain" - pretty accurate given its permanent ice cap.

Mount Kazbek - Where mythology meets geology in spectacular fashion

Also according to local folklore, the mountain is named after a man named Kazbegi, who was known for his bravery and strength. The story goes that Kazbegi had a wife who was equally courageous and wise. Together, they were said to have protected their village from invaders and natural disasters. The tale of Kazbegi and his wife is deeply rooted in the region's culture, symbolizing resilience and unity.

Church architecture details - Medieval craftsmanship that's survived centuries

Back in the day, the church was a safe haven for precious religious relics during invasions. It's still an active place of worship, and you can feel the deep spiritual connection the locals have to it. We met a few villagers who told us stories about how the church is a symbol of strength and faith for the people here. One local even shared a folklore tale about Mount Kazbek being the place where Prometheus was chained as punishment for giving fire to humans. How cool is that?

The Trinity Fountain & Local Encounters

The Trinity Fountain near the Gergeti Trinity Church is a small but meaningful addition to this iconic site. Tucked into the rugged landscape, the fountain is a simple stone structure with fresh, icy water flowing from a spout. The water comes directly from the mountains, making it incredibly pure and refreshing - perfect for a quick drink after the hike or drive up to the church.

Trinity Fountain - The best water you'll ever taste, straight from the Caucasus

The Trinity fountain blends seamlessly with the natural and spiritual surroundings, adding a touch of practicality to the serene atmosphere. Locals and visitors often stop here to rest, hydrate, and take in the stunning views of the Caucasus Mountains and the valley below. It's a humble yet essential part of the experience, reminding you of the harmony between nature, history, and daily life in this sacred place.

Stepantsminda from above - A tiny human settlement in a giant natural amphitheater

The drive up to the church is an adventure in itself. You can hike, take a 4x4, or even ride a horse if you're feeling brave. The views along the way are unreal; endless valleys, rivers cutting through the landscape, and sheep grazing on the hillsides.

Mount Kazbek in clear weather - The mountain reveals its full glory

The air is so fresh and crisp, it's like nature's way of hitting the reset button. We spent hours just sitting near the church, taking in the peacefulness and chatting with locals. They're some of the warmest, most welcoming people we have ever met, and they're proud to share their culture and stories with visitors.

Mount Kazbek view - Worth every step of the journey to see this

Kazbegi isn't just a place to see; it's a place to feel. Whether it's the awe-inspiring mountains, the rich history, or the sense of community, this spot has a way of staying with you long after you leave. If you're ever in Georgia, don't miss it; it's a slice of heaven on earth.

Georgia - Russia Verkhniy Lars Border

We drive all the way to the Verkhniy Lars border crossing which is the only land border between Georgia and Russia. The route takes us through the dramatic Dariali Gorge, with towering cliffs and the roaring Terek River alongside the road.

Verkhniy Lars border - Where two worlds meet in the high Caucasus

Located in the rugged Caucasus Mountains, Verkhniy-Lars border is a crucial point for travelers and trade, connecting Georgia's Kazbegi region with Russia's North Ossetia. The drive to the border is stunning, with winding roads cutting through dramatic mountain landscapes and deep valleys.

However, crossing here can be unpredictable; weather conditions, especially in winter, often cause delays or closures. The border itself is a mix of modern infrastructure and old-school checkpoints, with strict controls on both sides.

For travelers, it's a gateway between two very different worlds, but the real highlight is the breathtaking scenery that surrounds it. Just make sure to check the status before you go, as the mountains love to keep things interesting!

Border infrastructure - Politics and paperwork in the world's most dramatic setting

We will cross this border into Russia another day! For now, we turn around and head back to Tbilisi. As we leave the rugged mountains near the border, the landscape gradually softens into rolling hills and lush valleys. We again pass through the charming town of Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), The Georgian Military Highway, though winding and sometimes bumpy, offers incredible views at every turn. As we get closer to Tbilisi, the terrain flattens, and the vibe shifts from wild and remote to bustling and urban. The drive back takes about three to four hours.

Note: we will return to actually cross this border into Russia and on to Central Asia and India on our epic quad-continental overland world tour; our world overland story starts here.