ⵣ (yaz) Amazigh (Berber) symbol of freedom painted on a wall

From the medina of Marrakesch (see our Marrakesh story), we embark on an epic multi-day trip across Morocco's great Sahara desert from Marrakesh to Fes. On the way we cross Tizi n’Tichka mountain pass over High Atlas mountains, visit the historic Berber fortified village of Ait ben Haddou and marvel at the Film studios of Ouarzazate, of which Atlas Studios is the world's largest movie studio by area. We also see the Noor Solar Power Ouarzazate that is the world's largest concentrated solar power plant. We spend the night at a hotel in the suburbs of Ouarzazate. This is our photo story for the day.

Here is the complete map of our Morocco expedition. This post only covers Marrakech to Ouarzazate part of our multi-modal journey. Here is the full map.

The Atlas Mountains

The Atlantic Ocean is named after the Atlas Mountains. These mountains mark the western end of the great Sahara desert. In Morocco, the Atlas has three regions - the Anti-Atlas (from Atlantic ocean in southwest Morocco running northeast to Ouarzazate), High Atlas (from Atlantic ocean on western Morocco running east to Algerian border) and Middle Atlas (from the north of High Atlas running north-west to the high plateau between Saharan Atlas and Tell Atlas mountain ranges). The Rif (or Er-Rif) mountain range is further up north in Morocco at the Strait of Gibraltar coast. Here is a map of different Atlas Mountain ranges of Morocco, Algeria and the Sahara from Wikipedia.

Middle, High and Anti-Atlas Mountain Ranges Public Domain, Link

We will cross the High Atlas Mountains for our journey from Marrakech to Sahara desert, and then the Middle Atlas Mountains to the city of Fes.

The Amazigh (Berber) People of North Africa

The ancient Amazighs are original inhabitants of North Africa from at least Paleolithic era. They prefer to be known as Amazigh or Imazighen ("the Free People") instead of Greek-derived Berber which has misleading negative implications. They speak and write the Tamazight language, the script of which is one of the most beautiful we have seen anywhere in the world.

The modern Amazighs have a flag representing their identity. The ⵣ (yaz) symbol of freedom stands boldly on stripes of blue of the sea, green of the mountains and yellow of the desert. We see this flag displayed proudly from Sti Fadma to Fes.

Amazigh flag

The humans living in the great Sahara desert are Amazigh people of Tuareg clan. They are a nomadic people moving between places to find pastures for their herds of animals which they are existentially dependent on.

In our journey across Morocco, we would often meet people who would proudly introduce themselves as Amazigh or "I am a nomad". Unlike big cosmopolitan cities like Marrakesh with usual urban mixes of the good and the cheats, in the heart of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara Desert of Morocco we find and experience first-hand in numerous small incidents a degree of righteousness and virtuousness rarely seen in today's world.

Tizi n'Tichka Mountain Pass, High Atlas Mountains

July 13, 2023

We have a quick breakfast and check out of our riad in Jemaa el-Fnaa square of old walled city medina of Marrakesch by 7 AM and walk down a couple of blocks to the popular meeting point of Hôtel Restaurant Café de France in the square. Jemaa el-Fna is still asleep.

Quiet Jemaa el-Fna square in Marrakesch Medina early in the morning

We are punctually picked up at 7:30 AM by Yassine of Morocco Global Adventures into a Mercedes van and are soon on our way east on the Morocco National Route 9 (N9) desert highway.

Inside our van

We cross the Cooperative Arije Al Ghaba des herbes médicales at 9:10 AM. This is another cooperative producing argan oil and various herbal extract products. They also have a cafe, restaurant and bathrooms.

Arije Al Ghaba argan oil and herbal medicines cooperative

The scenery get prettier as we climb up the Atlas mountains.

High Atlas Mountains

We stop at 9:30 AM for coffee and snacks at Café Restaurant Tafraout on National Highway 9. It also has a convenience store and souvenir shop.

It is a large full-service cafe and restaurant just after the little town of Toufliht across Ifirouan mountain peak.

There is open outdoor seating at the back and terrace offering spectacular views of Atlas mountains.

Café Restaurant Tafraout, Toufliht on Highway N9

We reach the Tizi n'Tichka mountain pass scenic overlook on highway N9 slightly before 11 AM. 

At 7,234 feet, Tizi n'Tichka (Col du Tichka) is the highest major mountain pass in North Africa and a gateway to the great Sahara desert on its east.

The Tizi n'Tichka mountain pass was constructed by the French in the 1930s over an old silk road caravan route connecting Marrakech to Ouarzazate.

Tizi n'Tichka pass, Atlas Mountains

On a sad note, the last surviving Moroccan Barbary lion was shot to death near here in 1942 leaving Morocco devoid of lions since.

We continue on route N9 start climbing down from the highest point at Tizi n'Tichka heading towards the towns of Ighrem N'Ougdal and Melladi. It is rugged, barren and empty. Some businesses which used to cater to tourists have been abandoned perhaps due to the pandemic that had forced suspension of international flights to Morocco in mid-March of 2020.

Ighrem N'Ougdal

At 11:30 AM we stop for a coffee and bathroom break at a large roadside plaza at Melladi where Restaurant Palais de Tichka is the most prominent business. Next to the restaurant is the Coopérative Féminine d'argan Ait Tamnat (female cooperative of argan, people of Tamnat) run by women producing and selling argan oil and other herbal extracts, oils, perfumes, cosmetics and medicines.

A street dog sleeps in front of Restaurant Palais de Tichka

Heading towards Agouim, we cross the small town of Ighil.

Ighil

We stop for lunch at 12:00 noon on the outskirts of Agouim.

Agouim

Everyone else runs into a touristy-looking shiny air-conditioned Hotel Restaurant L'Oasis D'or Ait Ben Haddou but we walk past it two buildings down to the next restaurant Snack Restaurant Zaytoune that is much smaller and authentic-looking.

It is not air-conditioned but we find the porch seating with regular fans very comfortable.

There are no crowds here. We are the only customers and receive enthusiastic personal attention and have a great conversation with the owner. Once again, it appears to us these places were filled to capacity with hungry tourists at lunch time before the pandemic. The throngs are yet to return.

The tagine and couscous we have here are awesome. The flat prices of US$13 for a three-course meals are exactly the same as Marrakesh. These deals that we see all across Morocco offer any item from the Starter section, any item from the main Dishes section and any item from Dessert section for a flat price.

Restaurant Zaytoune

Ksar Ait-Ben-Haddou

We are getting familiar with some Moroccan words. A Kasbah is a fortress. The meaning of ksar is a fortified village which is protected like a fort by high walls and geographic features. Ait means "people of". Therefore "Ksar Aït Benhaddou" or "Kasbah Ait Benhaddou" is the fortified village or fort of the people of Ben-Haddou.

The old fortified Kasbah Ait ben Haddou

By 2:30 PM we are at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou on the edge of the great Sahara desert. This is a famous ancient fortress established in the 11th century by rulers of the Almoravid dynasty.

Aït Ben Haddou is strategically located on a high hill on the bank of Asif Ounila river which was an important trade route for trans-Saharan caravans travelling over the high Atlas Mountains to and from Marrakesch via Tizi n'Tichka pass. The river is a rare source of water in the surrounding arid desert landscape and the mountains around it provide a first level of protection.

Ksar Ait ben Haddou

There are a few families still living inside the walls of the old fortress. A newer Ait Ben Haddou village across the old city is linked by a pedestrian bridge across Asif Ounila river constructed in 2011.

Pedestrian bridge to old Ksar of Ait-Ben-Haddou

The fort has only two strategically positioned gates and numerous narrow alleys and stairs. Walls and towers are decorated in  in unique Islamic style with geometric motifs.

Inside Ksar Ait Benhaddou

The huge fortress is entirely constructed of red rammed earth (mud and clay) which is more permanent and resilient in dry desert climates than adobe.

Inside Ait Benhaddou

The location of the fortress up on a hill offers spectacular views of the new village across Asif Ounila river and the surrounding arid landscape.

Views from Kasbah of Ait Benhaddou

Ait ben Haddou as Film Location for Movies

Over fifteen famous Hollywood movies as well as popular shows like Game of Thrones are among films shot at Ksar Ait Ben-Haddou. There is a list of films on a wall at the gift store along with memorabilia around it.

List of Films shot at Aït Benhaddou

Just as one example, in Ridley Scott's blockbuster Gladiator (2000) starring Russell Crowe as Roman General Maximus Decimus Meridius, the scenes of Maximus being sold to slavery and the final battle scene were filmed at sets set up at Aït Benhaddou at the big dome visible towards the river.

The Gladiator film set in Ait Benhaddou, Ouarzazate, 1999. by u/Eddiien in Morocco

Gladiator (2000) was filmed at sets at the large dome

It is of course hot at Ait Ben-Haddou in the desert. Thankfully the gift store also sells ice creams.

Ait Ben-Haddou gift store

Noor Complex Solar Power Plant, Ouarzazate

Around  6 miles from the city of Ouarzazate, we can see the world's largest concentrated solar power plant in a distance in the Sahara Desert.

Ouarzazate / Noor Complex Solar Power Station

The Noor Ouarzazate Solar Power Station produces 510 MW from three concentrated solar power plants plus 72 MW from a fourth photovoltaic (solar panel) plant. It stores solar energy in heated molten salt and is able to continue to supply power for hours into darkness.

Noor Complex Solar Power Plant

This concentrated solar power stations uses mirrors or lenses to focus a large area of sunlight into an elevated reservoir of water. The water heats up and produces steam which powers turbines for generators.

Ouarzazate / Noor Complex Solar Power Station

CLA Studios and Atlas Studios - the world's largest movie studio

It is almost 4 PM when we reach the famous film studios of Ouarzazate. There are two studios of repute - Atlas Studios and CLA Studios. Atlas Studios are the largest film studio in the world by area.

Movie sets sprawling around deserts of Ouarzazate

The CLA Studios entrance is right on Highway N9. The studio has reportedly diminished significantly and reports suggest it is only used as production offices and storage. No tours are offered to the public any more.

CLA Cinematographic Studios, Ouarzazate

There are film sets of various kinds around the area. The Noor Ouarzazate Solar Power Plant is in the background of the movie sets.

Movie Set of Kingdom of Heaven (2005)

Iconic monuments of ancient Egypt have been recreated in the movie studios.

Film sets recreating ancient Egypt

A few sets for famous movies are retained by the studios for entertaining visitors. It appears Atlas Studios are still operating visitor tours although we do not have the time today.

Movie sets at Ouarzazate

There is a Oscar Hotel next to Atlas Studios. This hotel is run by the film studio.

Oscar Hotel by Atlas Studios, Ouarzazate

Hotel Ksar Kaissar

A plate of dried roses at the reception

It is 8 PM by the time we reach the Ksar Kaissar hotel for the night. It is located in the suburb of Tazzakht a few miles east of downtown Ouarzazate. The hotel is beautifully constructed and decorated.

Hotel Ksar Kaissar, Ouarzazate

After an excellent dinner is served on open terrace of the adjacent dining hall, we call it a night. We have to rise early the next morning to visit the Taourirt Kasbah, Dades Valley, the grand canyon at Todra Gorges and Todra Oasis and finally ride camels to the epic dunes of Erg Chebbi to a desert camp deep in the great Sahara. That story is at "The Great Sahara of Morocco: Canyons of Todra Gorge, Farm on Tinghir Oasis, Amazigh Carpets and Riding Camels Over High Erg Chebbi Dunes to Desert Camp Deep in Ocean of Orange Sand".