The Historic Jemaa el-Fna Square and Marrakech Medina (Old City)

Abdessamad drops us off at the Arset El Bilk park on Av. El Mouahidine on the south-west side of Jemaa el-Fnaa square. We walk from there towards our B&B which is on the square.

Jemaa el-Fnaa square

As we walk towards Jemaa el-Fnaa square, we see Marrakech's iconic minaret towers of Koutoubia Mosque and Ben Youssef Mosque.

Jemaa el-Fnaa square

It is the hottest time of day with temperatures approaching 122 degrees fahrenheit. Jemaa el-Fna is subdued with just a few cold drink and souvenir shops open. It is waiting to explode in activity with the setting of the sun and cooling temperatures.

Jemaa el-Fna square

We find our way to our B&B through just a couple of old narrow alleys of the old Medina. One thing we learn fast in this touristy place is there is no free help in big city Marrakech. We ask for directions expecting to be told which turn to take how many meters (or feet) down. Instead a gentleman gets up saying "I'll help you" and walks a few steps into the alley which our B&B is on. He then promptly asks for money because he helped us. I told him he should have told us his help comes with a cost before showing us the way. Regardless, we gave him a couple of USD bills just to end the conversation.

This was not an isolated incident. From then on, every time we had to ask for directions, we made sure the person helping us understood we are not interested in him "showing us the way", and just verbal instructions right there would suffice. Tourists need to be aware of this minor scam, especially given the maze of narrow alleys in the old towns of Marrakech Medina and Fes el Bali.

An alley in Marrakech Medina

Accomodation in the old district of Medina Marrakesh is provided by Riads. "Riad" is an Arabic word which here means a traditional Moroccan house with an indoor garden and courtyard, which is often the case in local B&Bs.

Our riad turns out to be a pretty place constructed in classic Moroccan architecture with a pool in the middle surrounded by date palms. We are told the property is relatively new at just about one hundred years in age.

Inside of our riad (hotel)

The Souks of Marrakech

After checking in and a brief rest, we head back out to Jemaa el-Fnaa square to check out the world-famous souks (traditional bazaars and marketplaces) around it. A UNESCO World Heritage site for Outstanding Universal Value, the Medina of Marrakech is still the largest souk district of Morocco.

The bazaar complex consists of around 18 smaller souks, each traditionally catering to a different type of trade although the lines have somewhat blurred now. Regardless, some authentic items sold in the souks of Marrakech have remained unchanged for over their 1000-year old history.

Souk Semmarine

Souk Semmarine

Continuing north, we reach Souk Zrabi. The entrance to the "Carpet Bazaar" of Souk des Tapis is here. The nomadic Berber people used to auction off carpets here. Slaves kidnapped and brought here in caravans were also sold and auctioned off.

Souk Zrabi

North of Souk Zrabi is Souk Haddadine. Metal workers build and sell metalware and colorful lampshades and lanterns here.

Souk Haddadine

Souk Chkayria is up next. This was originally a bazaar where leather craftsmen and bag makers sold their goods.

Souk Chkayria (Souk des sacochiers)

Leaving the souks, we proceed to Ben Youssef Square to visit the famous Madrasa next.

Ben Youssef Madrasa entrance

Ben Youssef Madrasa

The stunning 16th-century madrasa (Islamic school) is renowned across the world for its remarkable architecture, artwork and intricate wood and stucco carving. It is the largest madrasa in Morocco and one of the most prominent in North Africa (a region which the Arabs call "Maghreb").

Ben Youssef Madrasa visitor information board

Madrasa Ben Youssef was the largest school of Islamic studies in Maghreb. The 12th century Ben Youssef Mosque built by Almoravid dynasty Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf Marrakech is next to the Madrasa giving it its name. The Ben Youssef mosque is the oldest and central mosque of Marrakesch.

Layout of Medersa Ben Youssef

We purchase tickets (40 Dirhams / US$ 4 per person) and enter the open central courtyard of the madrasa. They say Islamic architecture traditionally includes intentionally mundane entrances to places like this for greater effect of the grandeur inside. This totally works as intended for us. Our jaws drop as soon as we enter the courtyard. There is a reflective pool in the middle of the courtyard with prayer halls on the far side and two-level accomodations and dormitories for students surrounding it.

Panorama of Main Courtyard of Medersa Ben Youssef

The Madarasa is a shining example of rich Moorish style of architecture. The carved artwork on wood and stucco along with colorful mosaic Zellige tiles is exquisite. Handcrafted clay Zellige tiles originated in Morocco and every Zellige tile is unique.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

The Moroccan and Andalusian architecture of Bin Yusuf Madrasa is an extraordinary confluence of Roman, Byzantine and Visigothic styles combined with artistic traditions of Islamic Middle East and North African Berber people. There are obvious similarities with architecture seen in Granada in Andalucia, Spain, for example in the patios and courtyards of Alhambra Palace.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

The materials used in the construction and decoration of Ibn Yusuf Madrasa include cedarwood from the Atlas Mountains, gypsum, mosaic and Italian marble.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

According to Moroccan historian al-Ifrani (full name Abu Abd Allah Muhammad ibn Muhammad al-Ifrani al-Susi al-Marrakushi), there used to be an older smaller Madrasa at the site built by Sultan Abu al-Hasaning of the Marinid dynasty in the 14th century. The madarasa was rebuilt to its current form later by Sultan Abdallah al-Ghalib of Saadi Sultanate who followed the style of the earlier Marinid Sultanate. 

Ben Youssef Madrasa

Ibn Yusuf Madrasa was once a busy place housing 900 students in its heydays. Since there are 136 dorm rooms, each small and simple student room housed up to 6 students!

Ben Youssef Madrasa

Medersa Ben Youssef is occasionally closed to the public for maintenance and restoration work, most recently in 2020. It is obviously lovingly taken care of and appears today as it appeared on its inauguration.

Ben Youssef Madrasa

Of particular interest in the opulent madrasa is a 11th-century Cordoban marble basin imported to Marrakech from Córdoba, Andalusia by Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf. This basin is originally from the Cordoban Caliphate period. Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf also later commissioned Cordoban artists to build the exquisite Minbar of Kutubiyya mosque that we will see later at El Badi Palace.

Carved marble basin crafted in Cordoba at the beginning of the 11th century By Robert Prazeres - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

The Tanneries of Marakkech

We walk east on Rue Bin Lafnadek towards Oued Issil river where the famous tanneries are located at the eastern boundary of the Medina of Marrakech marked by Bab Debbagh-Kawtar Gate (Gate of the Tanners). The Issil river of Marrakesch is a tributary of the Ourika river.

Walk from Ben Youssef Madrasa to tanneries of Marrakech

The open-air tanneries of Marrakech Medina are as old as the 11th-century city itself, as is the art of processing raw hide to finished leather goods. Not all tanneries are open all the time. We find Chez Hassan Tannery and Leather Shop open and go inside to check it out.

A tannery in Medina Marrakech Old City (Chez Hassan Tannery)

Tanneries are infamous for their powerful nauseating smell which pervades entire neighborhoods. As soon as we cross the doors of the tannery, we are issued famous "Moroccan Gas Masks" - a humorous nickname for small branches of mint plants to hold under our noses. We are given a nice informative tour of the tannery and learn much about leather before being ushered into two shops. Traditional family-owned tanneries have now evolved into cooperatives of tanners and leatherworkers with shops selling finished leather goods right on the premises. This particular cooperative was started by Chez Hassan who inherited the tannery from his father.

Chez Hassan Berbere's Tannery Cooperative and its two shops

We buy a pair of leather slippers and manage to navigate the narrow alleys back to our riad at Jemaa el-Fna Square. It is dinner time when we get back. Moroccan couscous and tagine for dinner, of course!

Dinner of Moroccan Couscous and Tagine at Marrakech Medina

Jemaa el-Fna Square after Sunset

On hot days like this, it is after sunset that Jemaa el Fna square comes unto its own. Throngs descend on already bustling souks and numerous stalls wake up to cook, barbeque and sell street food in open air in addition to the bewildering array of items overflowing from shops into alleys. 

Jemaa el Fna square at night

Street performers including snake charmers, monkey showmen, acrobats and water sellers put on their shows in the packed maze of derbs and rues.

Jemaa el-Fna square at night

A city tour of Marrakech

July 12, 2023

We have an excellent breakfast on the terrace of our riad the next morning and walk the couple of blocks to Hôtel Restaurant Café de France at the corner of Ave. Jamaa el Fnna and Rue des Banques. This B&B and Cafe is a popular meeting place and serves as the pick-up point for taxis and tours. It is too early for souks and shops to open, though a couple of mini-mart stalls are selling juice, cold drinks and cappuccino.

Jemaa el-Fna, Medina, Marrakech at 10 AM in the morning

We had arranged for Abdessamad to come pick us up this morning for a swing through Marrakech city and a visit to the Atlas mountains. He arrives punctually at 10 AM looking sharp with his Dacia taxi at the French cafe. Taxis and tour buses are allowed inside the Medina in the morning to pick tourists up.

There are a lot of Dacia vehicles in Morocco thanks to Dacia Maroc producing cars locally at factories in Tangier and Casablanca operated by their parent Renault. The Dacia Lodgy is an especially popular model.

It is already 91 degrees fahrenheit and going to be another hot day!

Marrakech mid July temperatures!

Our first stop on Abdessamad's Marrakech city tour is Miara Jewish Cemetery (Cimetière Juif de Miaara). This is the largest Jewish cemetery of Morocco dating back to 12th century. It is a serene place maintained by the Jewish community. Mausoleums of prominent Moroccan Rabbis surround the over 20,000 graves guarded 24/7. Jews from across the world, especially Israelis of Moroccan origin, commonly visit this cemetery. There is a nominal entry fee.

Visitor information board at Al Miara Square

We drive down Av. Taoulat El Miara.

Av. Taoulat El Miara

Our next stop is El Badi Palace on Rue de Berrima.

Entrance to El Badi Palace

Badi Palace, Marrakech Visitor Information Board

Of particular significance among the items on display at Badi Palace is the Cordoban Minbar (seat of the imam in a mosque) of Koutoubia mosque. This Minbar, along with the exquisite basin at Ben Youssef Madrasa, is a rare example of the level of skills of artisans of Cordoba, Andalusia, Spain. Sultan Ali ibn Yusuf imported the marble basin from Cordoba and later commissioned Cordoban artists for the Minbar.

Almoravid minbar of the Kutubiyya Mosque By إيان (Minor retouching by Robert Prazeres), CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

We head towards Palacio Glaoui Royal Palace of Marrakech (الإقامة الملكية) from El Badi palace.

Rte Dar Daou towards Rue Sidi Mamoun / Glaoui Royal Palace

The Palacio Glaoui Royal Palace is protected by its own high wall. We see a gate to the palace at the intersection of Rte Dar Daou and Rue Sidi Mamoun. It is understandably heavily secured and even stopping around the gate is not allowed. Armed guards wave their hands shouting at us to move on while a black suited secret service type gentleman closely observes us.

Glaoui Royal Palace

We drive south on Rte d'Ourika. Just before Marrakech's southern gate of Bab er Robb, we make a left crossing the historic Bab Agnaou gate into the famous Kasbah of Marrakech. The Kasbah is the large walled citadel district of southern Medina. We will loop back here later and stop to pick up some water and cold drinks.

Bab er Robb gate

We enter Kasbah on eastbound Rue Bab Agnaou and turn right on southbound Rue de La Kasbah. Crossing Moulay el Yazid Mosque and Saadian Tombs on our left, we drive through the charming Kasbah district.

Kasbah of Marrakech

We eventually make a right on Rue Bab Ksiba and exit the Kasbah through Bab Ksiba Gate, getting back on Rte d'Ourika.

Bab Ksiba Gate

We now commence on a tour of modern Marrakech outside the walls of old city Medina. Going up north on Rte d'Ourika with the wall of Medina on our right, we make a left on Rte du Barrage just before the Bab Er Robb gate.

Rte d'Ourika

South end of Bab Er Robb gate seen from intersection of Rte d'Ourika and Rte du Barrage

Driving around the westside of Imam Souhaili Cemetery along Al Yarmouk Blvd / Av. Guemassa, we head to the traffic circle at Place Bab Jdid.

Bd Al Yarmouk / Av. Guemassa

Marrakech has now become a sparkling modern city with wide boulevards and upscale hotels, restaurants and retail outlets. The Bab Jdid traffic circle is next to the New Gate ("Bab Jdid" in Moroccan Arabic) built by the French as another access to inside of the Medina.

Bab Jdid traffic circle

We take a small detour from Al Armouk Blvd / Av. Guemassa here to see a bit more of the city. Coming up from the south, we take the 3rd exit at Bab Jdid traffic circle to Rue Haroun Errachid towards the next circle Place de l'Hivernage crossing a Tesla supercharger station.

Novotel Marrakech Hivernage at Place de l'Hivernage

We take the first exit from Place de l'Hivernage traffic circle to continue on to Av. Echouhada. Cross Av. El Kadissia, we keep going till Av. Echouhada meets back up with Av. Guemassa / Bd. Al Yarmouk again ending our little detour.

Av. Echouhada and Av. El Kadissia intersection

A right on Bd. Al Yarmouk takes us across a Carrefour supermarket to the intersection with Av. Ahmed Ouaqala. We take a left on Av. Ahmed Ouaqala.

Left into Av. Ahmed Ouaqala from Bd. Al Yarmouk

Then, a right on Av. Mohammed V, left across the Municipal Palace (the City Hall providing Government services), right on Rue el Adala, left towards Rue Fatima Zahra, right on Rue Fatima Zahra, and finally a left on Rue Dar el Glaoui takes us to the noted Karim Bouriad Bazar garment shop. Zooming into the full map may help in understanding these directions!

Rue el Adala

Karim Bouriad Bazar is a famous garment shopping place preferred by the King's family and the elite of Marrakech. This shop features a rich collection of expensive caftans, jellabas, dresses, vests and tunics along with accessories, jewelry, leather products and decorative items. Dresses can be customized on request.

Views of Rue Dar el Glaoui from across Karim Bouriad Bazar

Abdessamad says he brought us here for us to get an idea of high-end prices so that when he takes us later to a "normal" garment shop we will have a reference. Inside the shop there are mannequins wearing elaborate caftans, luxurious Moroccan dresses and photos of special customers displayed on the walls and stacks of garments in glass showcases that salespeople happily take out and lay out for visitors. It is all very nice and pretty inside but we refrain from any purchases.

Vagabond #1 exiting Karim Bouriad Bazar

We get back on Rue Fatima Zahra and drive south, make a right at Rue Jbel Lakhdar and left across the lush garden with fountains named "Cyber Park" onto southbound Av. Mohammed V which leads into Rue Ibn Khaldoun / Av. El Mouahidine. The Esplanade de la Koutoubia is on our right. The majestic Koutoubia Mosque is across the open square.

The 12th-century Kutubiyya Mosque is the largest mosque in Marrakech. The 253-foot minaret is an icon of the city. Koutoubia Mosque was initially built by Caliph Abd al-Mu'min, the first Caliph of Almohad dynasty, who then shortly rebuilt it grounds up. The third Almohad dynasty Caliph Ya'qub al-Mansur wrapped up construction including the famous minaret tower.

Koutoubia Mosque at Esplanade de la Koutoubia

The small white koubba on the near edge of the esplanade is the 18th century tomb of Islamic saint Lalla Zohra (Fatima Zohra bint al-Kush). According to legend she flies around Marrakech at night in the form of a dove performing miracles and rituals. Mothers still bring their daughters here to her tomb seeking her blessings.

Saints and spirits are commemorated in Moroccan culture from ancient times. There are other Qubba (tombs with domes) like Zohra's in the Kutubiyya Mosque complex itself as well as all over Morocco. Another example is the koubba of Setti Fatma ("Lady Fatema") located on the mountainside of Sti Fadma that we will visit later today.

Kutubiyya Mosque and Qubba (Tomb) of Lalla Zohra

Intersection of Av. El Mouahidine/Rue Ibn Khaldoun and Av. Houmane El fetouaki

Continuing south, Rue Sidi Mimoun changes its name to our familiar Rte d'Ourika. This is our third trip on this stretch of Rte d'Ourika and we cross Palacio Glaoui Royal Palace again heading south towards Bab Er Robb gate.

This time we pull over to the side just before reaching Bab Er Robb gate across the street from Bab Agnaou gate into the Medina. We pick up some water and cold drinks here since we will now leave Marrakech for the countryside to the south into High Atlas Mountains.

Water and flower shops on the roadside across Bab Agnaou Gate just before Bab Er Robb Gate

Bab Agnaou Gate is right across the street from the roadside water and flower shops.

Bab Agnaou Gate into Medina of Marrakech

We go through Bab Er Robb Gate driving south out of Marrakech. We are on the P2017 highway driving all the way to Setti Fatma in High Atlas Mountains crossing Ourika, Timalizene, Tamezindert, Taljerft and Oualmas.

P2017 highway from Marrakech towards Sti Fadma / High Atlas Mountains

Ourika Valley

Once across the Bab Er Robb Gate of Marrakech, we quickly enter rural Morocco. Ourika is around 25 miles south of Marrakesch. We reach Ourika valley in under an hour and start to see lined-up camels with their owners serving tourists looking for camel rides.

Camels at Highway P2017, Ourika

The mountains get closer as we cross Timalizene.

Timalizene, Maroc

View of Atlas Mountains, Highway P2017, Timalizene

We drive through small picturesque mountain towns with names like Tamezindert and Taljerft.

Tamezindert, Maroc

Taljerft, Maroc

Oualmas

We reach the village of Oualmas just over an hour and 32 miles south of Bab Er Robb gate of Marrakech.

Oualmas

Pure Argan Oil and more from Mishkat Extraction Mills

Argan oil is used by women around the Mediterranean from ancient times for cooking, medication and cosmetics.  The sparkling golden-red oil has well-known cleansing and restorative effects on human skin and hair. It has been scientifically demonstrated in modern times to naturally protect the skin barrier and improve overall texture. Its medicinal qualities are used as an effective treatment for skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis and chronic dryness.

Argan oil is extracted from nuts of argan trees. These trees are very special and grow naturally only in this part of the world in dry arid regions of southwestern Morocco. This makes it one of the rarest and most expensive herbal oils in the world.

Argan tree in a valley near Tafraoute By Bjørn Christian Tørrissen - Own work by uploader, http://bjornfree.com/galleries.html, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

There is a well-known traditional herbal extract outlet at Oualmas named Mishkat Moulins d'extractions (Mishkat Extraction Mills). Mishkat are especially regarded for the purity of their argan oil extracted using traditional methods, as well as other kinds of herbal extracts and oils including almond (amande) and avocado (avocat) oils.

Traditional Oven outside Mishkat Moulins d'extractions

Metal sculptures of a woman and a camel outside Mishkat Argan

The large interior of the Mishkat Argan store is like a living museum. A watermill driving a large grinder is inside the premises along with countless nuts, leaves, herbal powders, organic perfumes, natural cosmetics and spices. There are Berber women sitting in a corner grinding and mixing away in the timeless way.

Mishkat Extraction Mills, Oualmas

Messages with therapeutic herbal oils are offered to visitors. Vagabond #1 gets a message which she describes later as rejuvenating and refreshing.

Mishkat Moulins d'extractions, Oulmès

After getting a message and purchasing a significant quantity of argan and various kinds of oils, we drive around three houses down on Hwy. P2017 to reach a traditional Berber miller's house that is also open to visitors.

Oulmès, Ourika

Traditional Berber House

We visit a Berber miller's house (Maison du meunier berbère) where the nice gentleman of the house takes us around explaining ancient Berber traditions. The house itself is built of adobe (mud and straw). We have seen houses built of similar material before, but on the other side of the planet in the villages in Atacama desert and Andes Altiplano.

We are led into a large room which has a traditional mill with millstones to grind nuts and seeds used to produce the herbal oils, cosmetics, medicines and powders that we just saw at the Mishkat shop.

In millstones like this seen in ancient cultures across the world, the raw material stored in the shoe above is dropped into the hole in the upper runner stone so that it spreads out over the lower bedstone. The runner stone is then rotated manually. This action grinds the material on the bedstone pushing it out to its edges. The final ground product is then collected from around the bedstone and sent for further processing.

Traditional Berber Millstone Grinder Mill

Behind this milling room, there is a patio at one side of which we see worn-out round millstones used in the grinder.

Used worn-out millstones

There is also a rectangular wash tub with a corrugated wooden beater.

Wash Tub with Beater

On the other side of the patio there is a traditional heated hammam bath. Hot water is provided in the bath by lighting firewood in the furnace below.

Traditional Hammam Bath with hot water heated by wood furnace below

We walk around various rooms of the mud house arranged around an inner patio. Traditional clay ovens in the kitchen along with a tea kettle with heating stand and utensils speak of a simple but comfortable lifestyle.

Kitchen of a traditional Moroccan Berber house

There are a few storage jars outside the rooms and a lot inside in storage rooms.

Storage jars and rooms of a traditional Moroccan Berber house

It is a very peaceful and calming house. One could sit here for a long time relaxing and sipping on tea.

Traditional Moroccan Berber house

In a rare modern touch, there is a TV in the carpeted living room.

Traditional Moroccan Berber house

I did not feel comfortable taking pictures of bedrooms of the people actually living here. The house backs out to the Ourika River which can be seen and accessed from the backyard.

Traditional Moroccan Berber house

It is a fascinating experience so far thanks to Abdessamad!

Abdessamad (left) with the Vagabond Couple in Traditional Moroccan Berber house

Setti Fadma