A Desert Expedition to Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert of Rajasthan: Tent Camping, Camel Safari, Jeep Rides and ATV Adventures

by - December 31, 2023

Sunrise Camel Ride at Sam Dunes, Thar Desert, Rajasthan, India
Sunrise Camel Ride at Sam Dunes of Thar Desert

We head to the Thar desert of Rajasthan after a memorable visit to Jodhpur. We spend two nights in a tent camp at Sam sand dunes from where we ride camels and ATVs and experience a little of the ancient and rich culture of Rajasthan. In the next post, we also explore the epic living golden fortress-city of Jaisalmer.

The Thar Desert, also known as the Great Indian Desert, is a vast expanse of golden sands stretching across northwestern India and eastern Pakistan. It is the world's 18th largest desert and the 9th largest hot subtropical desert, covering an area of about 200,000 square kilometers. The Thar Desert is a land of extremes with scorching summers and freezing winters. The landscape is dominated by sand dunes interspersed with rocky outcrops, saline flats and seasonal wetlands.

The Thar Desert has a rich history dating back thousands of years. It was once home to the Indus Valley Civilization, one of the earliest civilizations in the world. The ruins of ancient cities like Mohenjo-daro and Harappa (now in Pakistan) stand as testament to the desert's glorious past.

Despite its harsh conditions, the Thar Desert is home to a surprising variety of plants and animals. The vegetation is mainly scrubland, with drought-resistant trees and shrubs such as acacias, prosopis and tamarisks. Animals like antelopes, gazelles, chinkaras, desert foxes and caracals have adapted to survive in the dessert's arid environment.


Watch: Cultural Program Live Performance at Thar Desert Camp (Sam San Dunes), Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

The Thar Desert is also home to a unique culture. The Thar people have inhabited the desert for centuries and developed a rich tradition of music, dance and handicrafts. They are known for their resilience, hospitality and deep connection to the land.

The Thar Desert is a popular tourist destination, offering a variety of experiences for visitors. Camel safaris across the dunes, jeep safaris, ATV rides and cultural tours are just a few of the ways to explore the desert. For a truly immersive experience, you can camp under the stars and witness the breathtaking beauty of the Milky Way.

Unfortunately, the Thar Desert is facing a number of threats including climate change, desertification and overgrazing. These threats are putting pressure on the desert's fragile ecosystem and the livelihoods of the people who depend on it. Conservation efforts are underway to protect the Thar Desert and its unique biodiversity.

Rajasthan, the jewel of India's desert landscape, is not only a haven for history and culture but also a paradise for adventure seekers. Amidst the vast expanse of the Thar Desert lies the enchanting Sam Sand Dunes, offering a unique blend of traditional desert experiences and thrilling adventures.

The Sam Sand Dunes, nestled in the heart of the Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, are a breathtaking spectacle of golden waves sculpted by the wind. Rising majestically from the arid plains, these dunes stretch for miles, offering an enchanting escape into a world of serene beauty and raw wilderness.

As the sun casts its golden rays upon the dunes, their golden hues deepen, transforming the landscape into a mesmerizing tapestry of light and shadow. Ever-shifting with the desert winds, they create a mesmerizing play of curves and slopes, beckoning you to explore their contours, broken only by the occasional whisper of the wind and the soft crunch of footsteps on sand. The desert offers a refuge from the cacophony of everyday life.

Desert Camping on Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert

We are no strangers to camping in tents in the desert, having previously done so in the epic Great Sahara of Morocco. Desert camping in the Sam Sand Dunes turns out to be almost as surreal an experience that immerses travelers in the raw beauty of the arid landscape. The golden sands stretch as far as the eye can see, creating a mesmerizing backdrop for the various camping options available.

Tent Camping in the Desert at Sam Sand Dunes at the Great Indian Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Desert camp

From luxurious tented accommodations equipped with modern amenities to more rustic setups, the desert camps cater to a diverse range of preferences, promising a unique blend of comfort and authenticity.

Desert Camp at Sam Sand Dunes at the Great Indian Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Desert Camp

We spend two nights at the Joggan Desert Camp in Sam Dunes of Thar Desert under the starlit sky, enveloped by the tranquility of the desert and lulled to sleep by the melodies of the night.

Desert Camp at Sam Sand Dunes at the Great Indian Thar Desert near Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Desert Camp

Camel safaris across the dunes, jeep and ATV rides through the desert terrain and stargazing under a canopy of a million stars are just a few ways to experience the magic of the Sam Sand Dunes. In addition to camel rides and ATV adventures, the Sam Sand Dunes offer a myriad of activities to cater to diverse interests. Stargazing under the clear desert sky, enjoying a campfire and indulging in traditional Rajasthani cuisine are just a few highlights.

Our tents at the Thar Desert camp turn out to be Luxury Swiss tents. These semi-permanent fixtures offer a unique and comfortable camping experience in the heart of the desert. Our Swiss tents are spacious and well-furnished, equipped with comfortable beds, seating areas and even air conditioning and heating facilities!

Bedroom of luxury Swiss tent, Sam Sand Dune Desert Camping, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Bedroom of our tent

The interior of the tents is often decorated in a way that combines traditional and modern elements, providing a luxurious and culturally immersive experience.

Bedroom of Swiss luxury tent, Sam Sand Dune Desert Camping, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Bedroom of our tent

The front porch of the tent has comfortable arm chairs and a cot with pillows, a table and hand fans. It has lantern-style lights and mesh-curtain around it. Perfect for winding down with chai while looking out at the desert!

Front Porch (Verandah) of Swiss luxury tent, Sam Sand Dune Desert Camping, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

Front Porch (Verandah) of Swiss luxury tent, Sam Sand Dune Desert Camping, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Front porch of tent

There is a full bathroom attached right at the back of our tent, with a washbasin, toilet and shower along with hot and cold water and toiletries.

The camp includes a dining facility offering a variety of local and international cuisines cooked fresh and served right on the premises. Meals are prepared are served in a large dining hall at one end of the camp site. The staff at our camp provide excellent hospitality doing everything they can to ensure a memorable stay for us.

Rajasthani Cultural Performances at Desert Camp

In the evenings at our campsite, we immerse ourselves in the rich cultural heritage of Rajasthan. Local artists and performers put up mesmerizing traditional folk performances featuring vibrant costumes, energetic dances, magic shows and soulful music. There is a large rectangular open floor at the center of the camp where these performances take place. Comfortable armchairs and couches surround the open stage for us to sit back, relax and enjoy the shows under an open sky.

Cultural program stage, desert camp, sam sand dunes, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
The floor for cultural show at desert camp

Tasty snacks are served with tea, coffee and soft drinks. There is a full bar on a long table at the left. Scotch whiskey seems to be the most popular choice among the guests tonight. But I find myself not particularly in the mood for whiskey tonight, a fact that worries the nice bartender who offers "hard drinks" to me multiple times.

Cultural program stage, desert camp, sam sand dunes, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
The floor for cultural performances at desert camp

In the vibrant heart of Rajasthan, where the desert sands whisper tales of resilience and tradition, a captivating spectacle unfolds, beginning with three men singing traditional Rajasthani folk songs and playing their instruments.

Traditional Rajasthani Folk Song Singers
Rajasthani Folk Singers

After a few songs, women enter the floor dancing to the live folk music.

Rajasthani Folk Dancer

Rajasthani Folk Dancer

Rajasthani Folk Dancer

Rajasthani Folk Dancer
Traditional Rajasthani Folk Dancers

The iconic Rajasthani dance of pot balancers commences next as women adorned in colorful ghaghras twirl and sway, graceful as gazelles, each head crowned with a precarious stack of earthenware pots. This ancient dance, known as Ghoomar or Matki Dhamaal, transcends mere performance. It's a vibrant tapestry woven from threads of cultural heritage, feminine strength and unwavering poise. The rhythmic clinking of the pots is like a heartbeat keeping time with the pulsating music while the dancers pirouette and leap, defying gravity with each step. Their eyes sparkle with determination and joy as they navigate the uneven desert ground, their movements as fluid as the wind that dances through the Thar.

Ghoomar / Matki Dhamaal Dance of Rajasthan: The Dance of the Pot Balancers
Rajasthani Matki Dhamaal (Ghoomar) dance performance

We watch with disbelief as one woman balances a tall column of glasses filled with water with a pot also filled with water stacked at the top, and dances around the floor to various catchy traditional songs. She has a special way of shaking the entire stack of glasses and the pot on her head just enough to have some water splash over from the brim of the pot while she dances around the floor at the same time!

Ghoomar / Matki Dhamaal Dance of Rajasthan: The Dance of the Pot Balancers

Ghoomar / Matki Dhamaal Dance of Rajasthan: The Dance of the Pot Balancers
Rajasthani Ghoomar / Matki Dhamaal dance performance

The pots, adorned with intricate patterns and vibrant colors, become an extension of the dancers, adding a layer of visual drama to their already mesmerizing choreography. This dance is not just a visual treat; it's a testament to the women of Rajasthan. It's a celebration of their strength, their grace, and their unwavering spirit. Carrying water for miles, balancing household chores with artistic pursuits, they find rhythm and joy in the everyday, expressing it through this captivating dance.

The pot-balancers are followed by fire dancers in a spectacle that ignites our senses and leaves us breathless. A drumbeat of the Rajasthani dhol begins, primal and insistent. And then, they emerge. The dancers, their bodies adorned with vibrant colors and intricate patterns, their eyes glinting with the firelight.

Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

They move with a mesmerizing grace, defying the very nature of flame as they twirl and leap, their hands weaving intricate patterns with flaming torches. The fire becomes an extension of their bodies, a living element that dances alongside them.

Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

The Rajasthani fire dance is more than just a display of daring stunts. It's a ritual, a celebration of life and the power of the human spirit. The dancers are believed to be channeling divine energy, connecting with the primal forces of nature.

Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

The rhythmic beat of the dhol drums fuels their movements, while the chanting of mantras creates a trance-like atmosphere. The air crackles with energy, and you find yourself lost in the hypnotic rhythm of fire and dance. Witnessing a Rajasthani fire dance is an experience that stays with you long after the flames have died down. It's a reminder of the power of human spirit, the beauty of tradition, and the raw energy that courses through the veins of this ancient land. 

Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

The fire dance is believed to have originated centuries ago, possibly linked to tantric practices or warrior traditions.

Rajasthani Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

The dance is traditionally performed by men, though some communities include women as well. They often belong to specific communities, such as the Banjara tribe. The type of fire used can vary, with some dancers using coals, torches soaked in oil, or even kerosene.

Rajasthani Fire Dancers, Sam Dunes Desert Camp, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Rajasthani Fire Dancers

While the fire dance may appear dangerous, the performers are highly skilled and take precautions to minimize risk.

A 4x4 Jeep Ride on Thar Desert

Early in the morning with the sun just about to pop up over the horizon, we climb into the back of a sturdy open-air jeep and feel the wind whip through our hair as our driver expertly navigates the undulating sand dunes.

4x4 Jeep Ride, Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
4x4 Jeep Ride

We hang on tight for dear life as our jeep climbs steep slopes, plunges down valleys and powers through soft sand sending plumes of golden dust soaring into the air.

4x4 Jeep Ride, Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
4x4 Jeep Ride

We witness breathtaking landscapes of ever-changing desert panorama as we race across miles of golden sands.

4x4 Jeep Ride, Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
4x4 Jeep Ride

In the distance, we spot isolated settlements as our jeep tackles challenging dune slopes, conquers sandy ridges, and rushes through narrow trails. We also notice a Canadian flag on the dash of our jeep and wonder why.

4x4 Jeep Ride, Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
4x4 Jeep Ride

Each turn reveals a new vista, a hidden desert gem, making the journey itself an exciting exploration.

A Camel Safari at Sunrise

We get off the open back of the jeep shaken but not defeated, and embark on a traditional camel safari, swaying gently on the back of these gentle giants as we traverse the dunes and soak in the desert panorama.

Camel Ride at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Camel Ride at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert

A quintessential desert experience, camel rides offer a nostalgic journey through time, reminiscent of ancient Silk Road caravans.

Camel Ride at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Camel Safari at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert

Trained guides lead visitors through the undulating dunes on these gentle creatures, providing a serene and meditative experience.

Sunrise Camel Safari at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India

Sunrise Camel Ride at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
Camel Ride at Sam Sand Dunes of Thar Desert

The rhythmic sway of the camel's gait against the backdrop of the setting sun creates an otherworldly atmosphere, making it a must-try activity for anyone seeking a connection with the desert's soul.

The Sonar Kella Connection

"Shonar Kella" (সোনার কেল্লা) is a renowned Bengali film directed by the legendary filmmaker Satyajit Ray. Released in 1974, the film is based on Ray's own novel of the same name and is part of the Feluda series. The story revolves around Feluda, a private investigator, and his young cousin Topshe, as they embark on a thrilling journey to Jaisalmer in search of a mysterious golden fortress, Sonar Kella.

A camel ride scene from Sonar Kella (Bengali, 1974)
Camel ride scene from Sonar Kella (Bengali, 1974)

"Sonar Kella" beautifully captures the vibrant traditions, folk music, and colorful festivals of the region. Feluda's interactions with the locals, including a memorable encounter with a camel trader, add layers of cultural richness to the narrative.

ATV Ride on the Thar Desert

For a more adrenaline-pumping experience, we opt next for a ATV safari, zipping through the sandy expanse and feeling the thrill of the desert wind in our hair. With the vast expanse of the desert as our playground, ATV adventures lets us navigate through the dunes at exhilarating speeds.

ATV ride on Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
ATV ride on Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert

The experience is not just about the adrenaline; it's about conquering the sandy terrain and witnessing the ever-changing landscape unfold before us.

ATV ride on Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert, Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, India
ATV ride on Sam Sand Dunes, Thar Desert

Whether you're seeking an escape from the mundane, an adventure for the soul, or a chance to connect with nature's grandeur, the Sam Sand Dunes offer an unforgettable experience that will stay with you long after you leave their golden embrace.

Pumping air into tire of Jeep with a manual bicycle airpump
Pumping air into tire of Jeep with a manual bicycle air pump
Thar desert, Rajasthan, India

The ideal time for desert camping and engaging in camel rides and ATV adventures in the Sam Sand Dunes is during the winter months from October to March. The weather is more moderate, making it comfortable for both daytime exploration and nighttime activities.

Embarking on a desert camping expedition at the Sam Sand Dunes with camel rides and ATV adventures is an escapade that combines the tranquility of the desert with the thrill of adventure. Whether you choose the slow-paced elegance of a camel ride or the high-octane excitement of an ATV adventure, the desert landscape of Rajasthan promises an unforgettable experience that transcends the ordinary. It's a journey where time seems to stand still and every moment is etched in the golden sands of the Thar Desert.

The Thar Desert is a magical place that leaves us breathless. With its stunning landscapes, rich history and vibrant culture, it is a destination that will stay with us long after we leave. During our two days at the desert camp, we also visit the astonishing living golden fort-city of Jaisalmer 40 km to the east, a story we tell at Exploring Sonar Kella (সোনার কেল্লা) and Jaisalmer: the Golden Jewels of the Great Indian Thar Desert.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and  Bard.


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