Astoria, Budapest

We walk to St. Stephen's Basilica. Towering over Budapest, St. Stephen's Basilica is a majestic Roman Catholic church named after Hungary's first king. Construction spanned nearly half a century, finally opening its doors in 1905. The basilica's neoclassical architecture is a visual feast and its dome offers panoramic views of the city.

St. Stephen's Basilica

Inside St. Stephen's Basilica, we are greeted by a richly decorated space featuring Hungarian marble, sculptures and stained glass windows.

The basilica holds a special place in Hungarian hearts, not only for its grandeur but also for housing the Holy Right, the mummified hand of King Stephen.

We visit the Széchenyi Chain Bridge which is another icon of Budapest and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, though we do not actually cross the Danube river yet. The bridge is named after Count István Széchenyi, a Hungarian statesman who was the driving force behind its construction. Interestingly, "Hungarian Lions" that appear all across the country are a symbol, not a real subspecies of lion. In any case, the lions that historically roamed much of Europe, including Hungary, went extinct in the wild by around 1000 CE. The Hungarian Lion statues represent the historical presence and enduring symbolic meaning of lions in Hungarian culture.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

Designed by English engineer William Tierney Clark and built by Scottish engineer Adam Clark, Chain Bridge was the first permanent bridge across the Danube in Hungary. It was opened in 1849.

Széchenyi Chain Bridge

The bridge was a major engineering feat for its time and it helped to unify the two cities of Buda and Pest. It has taken much abuse many times over its history, including having being blown up by German troops in 1945 and rebuilt in 1949. The bridge was also damaged by floods in 2006 and repaired in 2011.

We walk towards the Erzsébet Bridge (Elizabeth Bridge) to check out the Budapest Inner-City Mother Church of Our Lady of the Assumption.

Elizabeth Bridge

Budapest's Inner-City Mother Church of Our Lady of Assumption, also known as the Inner City Parish Church, stands on foundations of Roman ruins. The church itself has undergone several transformations. Originally built in Romanesque style in the 12th century, it has been rebuilt in Gothic and Baroque styles throughout the years.

Inner City Parish Church

Today, the Neoclassical facade of the Inner City Parish Church stands out prominently near the Elizabeth Bridge. Despite its grand exterior, entry is free for visitors seeking a moment of peace or a chance to admire the church's art and architecture, including its recently opened viewing platform offering great city views.

We walk across the Elizabeth Bridge over the Danube River from Pest to Buda.

Elizabeth Bridge

Named after beloved Queen Elisabeth of Bavaria, the modern and elegant Erzsébet Bridge was built in the 1960s after its predecessor was destroyed in World War II. It is different from Budapest's more classical bridges.

View of Danube River and Budapest from Elizabeth Bridge

Clad in white and adorned with light masts, Elizabeth Bridge transforms into a dazzling spectacle at night. Pedestrian walkways on either side offer nice views of Buda Castle, Gellért Hill and the other Danube bridges.

Standing sentinel on the Buda side of Budapest, St. Gerard Sagredo Statue commemorates the city's patron saint. Sculpted in 1904 by Gyula Jankovits, the bronze figure of Bishop Gerard Sagredo towers over Gellért Hill, holding a high cross towards Pest.

St. Gerard Sagredo Statue on Gellért Hill

The dramatic pose symbolizes Gerard's efforts to spread Christianity in Hungary during the 11th century. At the foot of the statue lies a pagan warrior sculpted by Aladár Gárdos, highlighting the historical transition from paganism to Christianity. Together, the monument offers a powerful visual testament to St. Gerard's legacy and Hungary's Christian heritage.

The Rudas Thermal Bath (Rudas fürdő) was built in the 16th century during Ottoman rule. It retains a true Turkish bath ambiance in its central section.

Rudas Thermal Bath

Bathers can experience traditional bathing rituals under a magnificent dome in the octagonal pool. Beyond the historic core, a modern wellness area sprawls with various thermal pools, saunas and a rooftop panorama pool with impressive views of the Danube river and the Budapest city skyline. Unfortunately, we do not have the time in our hands today to experience the famous bathhouse.

Danubius Hotel Gellért

Steeped in history and Art Nouveau grandeur, the Danubius Hotel Gellért is a Budapest landmark. Built in 1918, it shares its impressive building with the world-famous Thermal Baths. Located right on the Danube's bank, the hotel offers city views, especially from its Panorama Restaurant and terrace.

Danubius Hotel Gellért

Danubius Hotel Gellért and Gellért Hill Thermal Baths

The Gellért Hill Cave Church, also known as the Rock Church or the Cave Chapel, offers a unique and historic religious experience. Carved into the natural limestone cliffs of Gellért Hill, the church's origins can be traced back to a hermit who resided there centuries ago.

Walkway up to Gellért Hill Cave Church

Transformed into a chapel in the 1920s, it became a spiritual center for the Pauline Order until their imprisonment by the Communist regime in the 1950s. After the fall of communism, the cave church reopened in 1989, showcasing a blend of natural rock formations and religious iconography.

Gellért Hill Cave Church

Visitors can marvel at the simple yet spiritual interior adorned with statues and paintings, including a replica of the Black Madonna.  The church also boasts a peaceful terrace with views of the Danube River and Budapest city, making it a popular destination for both prayer and panoramic vistas.

We walk back to Pest again over the Liberty Bridge (Szabadság híd). This vibrant green bridge draped across the Danube River was originally named Franz Joseph Bridge after the Austrian emperor. It was renamed after World War I to symbolize Hungary's newfound freedom.

Liberty Bridge

Built in the late 19th century for the Millennium World Exhibition, the Liberty Bridge showcases stunning Art Nouveau architecture. Turul statues  (mythical falcon-like creatures) stand guard on its green pylons, while the Hungarian coat of arms adds a touch of national pride.

We reach Fővám Square (Fővám tér) across the Danube in Pest. Bustling Fővám Square is another vibrant Budapest hub where history and modern life collide.

Fővám Square

Across Fővám Square, the imposing silhouette of Corvinus University, housed in the former Main Customs House, adds a touch of grandeur. 

Fővám Square

The centerpiece is the Great Market Hall, a sprawling neo-Renaissance masterpiece overflowing with Hungarian delicacies, souvenirs and local crafts. It is the the largest and oldest indoor market in Budapest. It is also known as the Central Market Hall, or Nagycsarnok.

Great Market Hall

Beneath the surface, a hidden network of tunnels, remnants of the market hall's construction, still transport goods today.

We reach the Hungarian National Museum, a treasure trove of Hungarian history and culture. Founded in 1802, it houses over one million artifacts spanning millennia, from archaeological finds to works of art including a collection of Roman artifacts from the former Roman Province of Pannonia (c. 9 BCE to the 5th century CE) which spanned parts of today's Hungary, western Slovakia, eastern Austria, northern Croatia, northwestern Serbia, northern Slovenia and northern Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Hungarian National Museum

The grand Neoclassical building itself is a landmark, designed by renowned architect Mihály Pollack. Exhibits on the second floor take visitors on a chronological journey, showcasing Hungary's story from the arrival of the Magyars in the 10th century to the 20th century. One of the museum's highlights is the Crown of Saint Stephen, a symbol of Hungarian monarchy.

We continue on to Calvin Square (Kálvin Square), another major transportation hub in Budapest with trams and buses crisscrossing the square connecting various districts of the city. The square and its church are named after French Protestant reformer John Calvin.

Kálvin Square

Towering above Calvin Square is the Reformed Church (Kálvin téri Református templom) built between 1816 and 1830. It is a fine example of Neoclassical architecture featuring a single, tall tower topped with a star which is a common symbol for Protestant churches referencing the Star of Bethlehem. The four-columned entrance and two-story side galleries add grandeur to the facade. This church serves as the heart of Budapest's Protestant community.

Calvin Square Reformed Church

Soon we find ourselves back at Astoria where we started from and take the opportunity for a nice relaxing coffee break.

Astoria

Our next destination is the Hungarian National Opera House (Magyar Állami Operaház) whose facade boasts a grandeur fit for royalty, adorned with statues of muses and opera greats like Liszt and Verdi. Unfortunately there is some sort of renovation going on and the famous facade is covered.

Hungarian National Opera House (Magyar Állami Operaház)

Designed by Miklós Ybl, a prominent figure in 19th-century Hungarian architecture, the Opera House was constructed in Neo-Renaissance style with Baroque influences. The opulent interior features marble columns, gilded vaulted ceilings and a horseshoe-shaped auditorium designed for exceptional sound quality. The Opera House hosts a prestigious ballet and opera company whose performances continue to captivate audiences.

We go past Kavicsos Park under the Chain Bridge, a place to escape the urban buzz of Budapest and find serenity. The park is a hidden gem south of the city. Nicknamed "Pebble Lake" for its origins as a quarry, this scenic spot offers a refreshing break.

Kavicsos Park

Visitors can Kayak or fish on the calm waters dotted with charming little fishing houses, or explore the network of tiny islands, many with summer homes, or simply relax on the shore and soak in the tranquility. Kavicsos Park is a perfect escape for nature lovers and urban explorers seeking a breath of fresh air.

We arrive at the Heroes' Square (Hősök tere), the famous and majestic square known for its iconic Millennium Monument and its role in commemorating Hungarian history.

Heroes' Square (composite)

Situated at the grand end of Andrássy Avenue, Heroes' Square also serves as the gateway to Budapest City Park. Heroes' Square reflects a blend of Neo-Renaissance and Baroque influences.

Heroes' Square (composite)

The Millenium Monument is the centerpiece of Heroes' Square. It was erected in 1896 to celebrate the 1,000th anniversary of Hungary's founding and features a central column topped with the Archangel Gabriel holding the Holy Crown of Hungary. Statues of the Seven Chieftains of the Magyars, considered the founders of the Hungarian nation, stand at the base of the Millenium Monument.

Millenium Monument

Behind the central column, two semicircular colonnades stretch outwards. These colonnades house statues of Hungarian kings and other important historical figures who played a role in shaping the nation.

In front of the Millenium Monument lies a stone often mistaken for a tomb. It's actually a cenotaph dedicated to those who died defending Hungary's freedom.

Budapest's Mucsarnok, also known as the Kunsthalle or Palace of Exhibitions (Műcsarnok), functions as a contemporary art hall, hosting a wide range of temporary exhibitions throughout the year. Situated on Dózsa György út, it faces Heroes' Square, making it a visually striking landmark. It was built in the late 19th century. The neoclassical building itself is a historical treasure.

Műcsarnok

Budapest's City Park Ice Rink and Boating area boasts not only the thrill of gliding on ice or cruising by boat, but also a handsome bronze statue to greet us. The Archer statue, a replica created by Zsigmond Kisfaludi Strobl in 1929, stands tall in front of the ice rink's building.

Archer Statue at Budapest City Park Ice Skating Rink and Boating Area

The Budapest City Park Ice Skating Rink and Boating Area undergoes seasonal transformation in winter, becoming a sprawling paradise for skaters with a 12,000-square-meter ice surface, one of the largest in Europe. Ice skaters glide across the smooth ice with the majestic Heroes' Square and Vajdahunyad Castle as their backdrop.

Budapest City Park Ice Skating Rink and Boating Area

The centerpiece of this area is the beautiful building that houses the ice rink and other facilities. Erected in the 19th century, it boasts a classic architectural style that complements the surrounding park.

Budapest City Park Ice Skating Rink and Boating Area

Come summer, the magic transforms - the ice melts away, revealing a peaceful lake. Visitors can then rent boats and enjoy a scenic cruise, soaking in the beauty of the park from a different perspective.

From the Pest side of Budapest, we cross the Danube again to Buda's Ybl Miklós Square (Ybl Miklós tér) over the Széchenyi Chain Bridge heading to Castle District and Buda Castle. Budapest remembers its World War 1 soldiers in several ways, but some of the most striking are the statues scattered throughout the city.

Memorial to World War 1 Soldiers at Ybl Miklós Square

These aren't triumphant figures; they're often depicted in poses of weariness or grief, reflecting the immense toll the war took on Hungary. One particularly powerful collection can be found at Ybl Miklós Square where large, green-bronze statues stand guard, their expressions conveying the hardship endured.

Memorial to World War 1 Soldiers at Ybl Miklós Square

These statues serve as a constant reminder of the sacrifices made by Hungarian soldiers during the war.

Beyond the soldier statues, the Várkert Bazár (Castle Garden Bazaar) is a beautiful, historic complex built between 1875 and 1883 in a Neo-Renaissance style. It originally served as a marketplace and exhibition hall. The complex fell into disrepair in the 20th century, but it was fully restored and reopened in 2014.

We walk past what appears to be an opulent event venue (Rendezvényterem) with beautiful doors in the sprawling Várkert Bazár complex. Event venues in Budapest come in all shapes and sizes, from historic ballrooms within grand hotels to modern conference centers with cutting-edge technology.

Doors of event venue (Rendezvényterem) at Várkert Bazár

These event halls often boast stunning architecture or unique locations, like a Danube River cruise ship or a rooftop terrace overlooking the city.

Next, we walk past the Neptune Fountain (Neptun-kút) which is a charming hidden gem tucked within the Várkert Bazár. This unique kút features a blue and turquoise mosaic niche. Inside, a watchful Neptune reigns, his head sculpted above a beautiful seashell-shaped water basin. 

Neptune Fountain

While not a large or ostentatious fountain, the Neptun-kút adds a touch of aquatic whimsy to our exploration of the Várkert Bazár renovated castle district marketplace as we proceed towards the Buda Castle.

A view of Buda Castle perched above Buda Hill comes into distant focus from the walls along Várkert Bazár.

Buda Castle view from Várkert Bazár below

We walk by the restaurants along Várkert Bazár. Featuring outdoor seating on the sidewalk of  Ybl Miklós Square below the Buda Castle, we would very much love to return and spend some idyllic time here when we return to Budapest on a less strict clock some day.

Restaurant at Várkert Bazár in Ybl Miklós Square below Buda Castle

We reach Adam Clark Square and walk past the entrance to the Budavari Sikló (Budapest Castle Hill Funicular) to Budai Tunnel (Budai Váralagút or Buda Castle Tunnel) which is a historic road tunnel running under Castle Hill connecting Clark Ádám Square with Krisztinaváros district.

Adam Clark Square: Buda Castle Funicular towards Buda Castle Tunnel

Designed by Ádám Clark, the engineer behind the Széchenyi Chain Bridge, construction of the tunnel occurred between 1853 and 1857.  It was a major feat of engineering for its time and remains the second-oldest tunnel in Budapest. The Budai Tunnel is 350 meters long, with a single lane for cars in each direction and a separate lane for pedestrians.

Budai Váralagút: Budai Tunnel under Buda Castle Hill

The Buda Castle Tunnel is a popular route for both locals and tourists, providing easy access between the Buda Castle District and the Pest side of the city. While not as grand as some other Budapest landmarks, the Budai Tunnel holds historical significance and offers a convenient passage through Castle Hill.

We get back to the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular (Budavari Sikló) which links the Adam Clark Square and Széchenyi Chain Bridge at river level to Buda Castle high above. There is a beautiful Coat of Arms Mosaic Crest Emblem on the Buda Castle Wall to the left of the funicular's outer entrance.

Coat of Arms Mosaic on Buda Castle Wall

The Budavari Sikló funicular train was opened on March 2, 1870 and has been in municipal ownership since 1920. It was destroyed in the Second World War and reopened on June 4, 1986.

Budapest Castle Hill Funicular Train outer entrance and ticket office

Funicular trains designed with staggered cars have multiple compartments within a single carriage, each positioned at a slightly different height. This design helps the car navigate steep inclines more efficiently.

Boarding the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular Train (Budavari Sikló)

The funicular train is a popular tourist attraction and offers stunning views of the Danube River and the Buda Castle district. The ride up the hill takes only a few minutes, but it is a great way to save time and avoid the steep climb. The funicular is also a great option for people with disabilities or those who simply don't want to walk uphill.

Inside a car of the Budapest Castle Hill Funicular Train

The Budapest Castle Hill Funicular train is the second-oldest funicular railway in Europe. The line is only 95 meters long, but it has a height difference of 51 meters. The maximum incline of the line is 48 degrees. The funicular cars can each carry up to 60 passengers.

We go up the Buda Hill on the funicular train and disembark at St. George's Square (Szent György Square) courtyard to meet Turul the mythical raptor and a Hungarian national symbol whose statue at the top is an icon of Budapest. The Turul bird is featured in many Hungarian legends and is said to be a divine messenger or a protector.

Statue of Turul the bird at Buda Castle

The particular statue at Buda Castle was created by sculptor Gyula Donáth and erected in 1905. It stands at an impressive height of 5 meters (16.4 feet) and has a wingspan of 7 meters (23 feet). The statue is made of bronze and is perched on a pedestal decorated with the coat of arms of historical Hungary.

This side of St. George's Square offers some of the most breathtaking views of the city of Budapest and the Danube river flowing across it.

View of Pest, Budapest and Danube River from St. Georges Square next to  Buda Castle

On the adjacent side of St. George's Square next to Buda Castle complex sits the Sándor Palace which was commissioned by Count Vince Sándor and built between 1803 and 1806. This grand Neoclassical building was so luxurious that even the stables were made from marble!

Sándor Palace at top of Buda Hill next to Buda Castle: Presidential Residence

Since 2003, Sándor Palace has served as the official residence of the President of Hungary.  There is a changing of the guard ceremony every hour on the hour from 9am to 5pm.

On the third side of St. George's Square there are open spaces with numerous flags and buildings.

St. George's Square

The famous Habsburg Gate, also referred to as the Lion's Gate into the Buda Castle complex itself is on the fourth side of St. George's Square. Built in the Neo-Renaissance style between 1895 and 1900 by architect Alajos Hauszmann, Habsburg Gate features a dramatic archway flanked by statues of Hungarian lions, which, as we mentioned before, are a symbol of Hungary and not a biological subspecies of European lions that are extinct in the wild from 1,000 CE.

Habsburg Gate (Lion's Gate), Buda Castle

Habsburg Gate leads to a staircase adorned with wrought-iron railings and concludes with the impressive equestrian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy.

Staircase from Habsburg Gate to Buda Castle

The equestrian statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy features the prince as a highly successful military commander riding a rearing horse. It commemorates Prince Eugene's victory over the Ottoman Turks at the Battle of Zenta in 1697, a significant event in Hungarian history. The pivotal clash fought on September 11, 1697 near Zenta (present-day Senta, Serbia) during the Great Turkish War (1683-1699) took place between the Holy League led by the Habsburg Monarchy (Austria) with support from other European powers like Poland and Venice commanded by Prince Eugene of Savoy who was a brilliant military leader and the Ottoman Empire led by Sultan Mustafa II himself.

Buda Castle

The Battle of Zenta resulted in a decisive victory for the Holy League. The Ottomans suffered heavy losses, estimated between 20,000 and 30,000 dead, wounded, or missing, while the Holy League casualties were significantly lower. Sultan Mustafa II himself barely escaped with his life, further demoralizing the Ottoman army. The Ottomans lost control of the Banat region (present-day parts of Hungary, Serbia and Romania), marking the turning point in the Great Turkish War leading to Ottoman decline in Central Europe. The Ottomans eventually sued for peace, culminating in the Treaty of Karlowitz (1699) which saw the Ottomans cede significant territories in Hungary, Transylvania, Croatia and Slavonia to the Habsburg Monarchy.

Statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy at Buda Castle

Prince Eugene's statue at the Buda Castle is made of bronze and sits on a white marble pedestal. Designed by József Róna, it was erected in 1900  and is considered one of the finest equestrian statues in Budapest.

It has now been a super-long day for us. We climb down from Buda Castle on the funicular, purchase bus tickets and stagger back to our B&B which fortunately is also on the Buda side and not too far away.

Purchasing bus tickets at Clark Ádám Square, Budapest

Back to our B&B from Walk back from Eper utca bus stop

Our B&B in Buda

The next day, we will drive cross another international border and overland into Zagreb, Croatia.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and Gemini.