Sládkovičova ulica

The city of Bratislava on the banks of the Danube River exudes a charming blend of old-world beauty and modern vitality. Its historic Old Town, characterized by narrow cobblestone streets and pastel-colored buildings adorned with ornate facades, evokes a sense of timeless elegance. We stroll through the maze-like streets, encounter hidden courtyards, picturesque squares and charming sidewalk cafes where locals and visitors alike gather to enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of Slovak wine. Dominating the skyline is the imposing Bratislava Castle, a symbol of the city's rich history and architectural splendor. Beyond its historic core, Bratislava boasts a vibrant cultural scene, with museums, galleries and theaters showcasing the city's artistic heritage. With its inviting ambiance, rich history and scenic beauty, Bratislava captivates the hearts of all who visit, offering a truly unforgettable experience in the heart of Europe.

Slovakia (Slovenská republika) boasts a history as rich and diverse as its landscapes. Celtic settlements gave way to the powerful Great Moravian Empire, leaving behind grand cathedrals and fortified towns. Centuries of Hungarian rule followed, shaping the nation's architecture and traditions. The 20th century saw periods of autonomy within Czechoslovakia and finally, in 1993, The Slovak Republic (Slovakia) emerged as an independent nation. This vibrant mix of influences is evident in its folk art, embroidery and lively festivals, all set against a backdrop of dramatic mountains, charming villages and majestic castles like the Bratislava Castle. Slovakia's beauty is more than just skin deep; it's a tapestry woven from its people's stories and the enduring spirit of a nation that cherishes its past while embracing the future.

Driving from Prague to Bratislava

After our memorable exploration of Prague, Czechia, we take the D1 motorway south towards Brno (map). The D1 motorway in Czechia is a modern four-lane highway with a speed limit of 130 km/h (80 mph) in most sections.

E65/D1 from Prague towards Brno

Brno is the second-largest city in the Czech Republic and is a major transportation hub. From Brno, we take the E50/E65 route south towards Slovakia.

Exit from E65/D1 at Brno towards E65/D2 towards Bratislava

Once we cross the border into Slovakia, the highway becomes the D2 motorway.

E65/D2 towards Bratislava, Slovakia

Like Czechia, Payment is required on Slovak toll motorways as well.

Entering E65/D2 in Slovakia towards Bratislava

We register for electronic tolling at the Brodské border distribution point. The D2 motorway is a two-lane highway with a speed limit of 130 km/h (80 mph) in most sections. It continues south to Bratislava. The total distance between Prague and Bratislava is about 340 kilometers (211 miles) and our driving time is approximately 5 hours.

Myto.SK Hraničné distribučné miesta, Brodské

The Myto.SK Border distribution points (Myto.SK Hraničné distribučné miesta) are locations where overlanders can buy an electronic vignette for driving on motorways and expressways in Slovakia. They are located at border crossings with Austria, Czechia, Hungary, Poland and Ukraine.

Myto.SK Hraničné distribučné miesta, E65/D2, Brodské, Slovakia

The Myto.SK Hraničné distribučné miesta on the E65/D2 motorway in Slovakia from Czechia-Slovakia border to Bratislava is located at the Slovak land border crossing post at Brodské. It is a service point for the electronic toll collection system in Slovakia. The service point is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and offers the following services:

• Registration for the electronic toll collection system
• Purchase of an electronic toll unit
• Recharging of an electronic toll unit
• Payment of tolls
• Obtaining information about the electronic toll collection system

The service point is staffed by trained personnel who assist visitors with any questions they may have about the electronic toll collection system.

A vignette is a digital toll required to drive on motorways and expressways in Slovakia for vehicles weighing up to 3.5 tonnes. Unlike a traditional toll booth, there are no toll plazas on Slovakian highways. Instead, cameras mounted overhead scan license plates to enforce vignette compliance.

Vignettes are available with three durations of validity in Slovakia: 10 day, 30 day and one year. Vignettes can be purchased electronically or at designated points of sale before using Slovak toll highways. The easiest way to buy a vignette beforehand is online through the official eznamka.sk website https://eznamka.sk/en or the SkyToll mobile app. You will need to enter your vehicle's registration number and choose the validity period of the vignette. Vignettes can also be purchased at gas stations, convenience stores and at border crossing at "Myto.SK predajné miesto" (toll sales point) in Myto.SK Hraničné distribučné miesta plazas.

Bratislava

We drive into Bratislava, capital of Slovakia, heading to the famous castle. Bratislava was the grand coronation city for Hungarian monarchs, with Bratislava Castle witnessing the crowning of Habsburg kings. The city's heart throbs with a vibrant cultural scene, evident from the National Theatre hosting Slovakian plays to modern art galleries showcasing contemporary talent.  Everywhere you turn, history whispers from baroque palaces and medieval squares, while contemporary life bursts forth in trendy cafes and innovative street art. This captivating blend of old and new, all nestled along the majestic Danube River, is what makes Bratislava a city of undeniable beauty.

The Vítanie statue at the National Council of The Slovak Republic

The Bratislava Socha Vítanie od Jana Kulicha or "The Bratislava Welcoming Statue by Ján Kulich" is a bronze sculpture located in front of the National Council of the Slovak Republic building (Národná rada Slovenskej republiky) across the Bratislava Castle.

Vitanie statue at the National Council of the Slovak Republic

The statue, often simply called "Vítanie", was created by the Slovak sculptor Ján Kulich and installed in 2010. The statue is a popular tourist attraction and has become a symbol of Bratislava. It is often used as a backdrop for photographs and is a popular meeting place for locals and visitors alike. It is a reminder of Slovakia's rich history and culture and its welcoming embrace is a symbol of the country's openness to the world.

Bratislavský hrad (Bratislava Castle)

Palisády road and Zámocká street intersection west of Bratislava Castle

Bratislava Castle entrance

The Bratislava Castle isn't just a historical gem; it's a vibrant cultural center.  The Slovak National Museum resides within its walls, showcasing Slovakia's fascinating history. Visitors can explore exhibits, wander through the restored chambers, or simply admire the breathtaking panoramic views of the Danube River and the city sprawled below.

Bratislava Castle

Bratislava Castle, a dominant landmark of Slovakia's capital, boasts a rich history and captivating beauty. Its story stretches far back, whispering tales of Celts, empires and architectural transformations.

Bratislava Castle, Danube river, Most SNP bridge, UFO Tower and Bratislava city panorama

The earliest whispers come from the Celts, who exploited the castle hill's strategic position as early as the Iron Age. Fast forward to the 9th century and a Great Moravian fortified settlement emerged.  Historical records mention it in 907 AD as "Pressalauspruch."

Bratislava Castle

Bratislava Castle truly rose to prominence in the 16th century. With the Ottomans threatening Hungary, the capital was moved to Bratislava in 1536.  King Ferdinand I Habsburg, recognizing the castle's potential, ordered a grand expansion. This period saw the addition of Renaissance features, bastions and most importantly, it became the prestigious home of the Hungarian coronation jewels, including the treasured Crown of Saint Stephen.

Danube river, Most SNP bridge & UFO Tower and Bratislava city view from observation deck

Sadly, the 19th century brought a devastating fire in 1811. The castle lay in ruins for over 140 years.  Fortunately, a wave of reconstruction began in the mid-20th century, restoring the castle to its former glory. Today, it stands tall, a majestic symbol of Slovakia's resilience.

Bratislava Castle

The castle's beauty lies in its imposing presence and architectural blend. Its rectangular form features four elegant corner towers, each contributing to its distinctive silhouette.  The "Jewel Tower," standing southwest, once housed the Hungarian crown jewels for centuries.

Bratislava Castle

Illuminated at night, Bratislava Castle transforms into a magical sight, a fitting crown adorning the Slovakian capital. The Observation Deck at National Council of the Slovak Republic (Vyhliadka - Národná rada Slovenskej republiky) offers stunning panoramic views of the castle, the Danube River, the city of Bratislava and even Austria on a clear day.

The Danube river from Observation Deck

The Danube River snakes picturesquely through the city, with bridges, historical buildings and lush greenery lining its banks.

Danube river and Bratislava City view from Observation Deck

It is possible to spot landmarks like the UFO observation deck on the Nový Most bridge, the Michael's Gate and the St. Martin's Cathedral.

Danube river, Most SNP bridge & UFO Tower and Bratislava city view from observation deck

Vyhliadková veža UFO (Most SNP UFO Tower)

The Most SNP, also fondly referred to as the Bratislava UFO or Nový Most (New Bridge), is a striking landmark in Slovakia's capital city. Below the bridge, the Bratislava Promenade on Danube River (Bratislavská Promenáda pri Dunaji) is a wonderful place to take a stroll along the river bank.

Viedenská cesta road towards Panónska cesta road and Most SNP UFO bridge

A Bridge with Two Names Originally named Most SNP (Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising) to honor a significant resistance movement against Nazi forces, it quickly gained the nickname "UFO Bridge" due to the unique circular restaurant perched atop its single pylon.

Bratislava Promenade on the Danube River off Viedenská cesta road towards Panónska cesta road and Most SNP bridge

In 1993, the official name was changed to Nový Most to reflect its status as the second bridge built in Bratislava over the Danube River. However, the bridge's iconic UFO designation stuck and in 2012, the official name reverted back to Most SNP.

Bratislava Promenade on the Danube River off Viedenská cesta road towards Panónska cesta road and Most SNP bridge

The Most SNP is a cable-stayed bridge, boasting the distinction of being the world's longest bridge with a single pylon and cable-stayed plane. It stretches a total length of 1,413 feet (430.8 meters) across the Danube, with a main span of 994 feet (303 meters). Construction began in 1967 and was completed in 1972.

Bratislava Promenade on the Danube River off Viedenská cesta road towards Panónska cesta road and Most SNP bridge

The bridge's most captivating feature is undoubtedly the UFO restaurant. This circular structure, resembling a flying saucer, sits atop the 312-foot (95-meter) tall pylon.  Visitors can enjoy delectable meals while taking in breathtaking panoramic views of the city and the Danube River. An elevator whisks you up to the observation deck offering stunning 360-degree vistas.

The UFO bridge from Bratislava Promenade on the Danube River off Viedenská cesta road towards Panónska cesta road and Most SNP bridge

The Most SNP is more than just a bridge; it's a symbol of Bratislava's modern spirit and a popular tourist destination. Whether you're strolling across the pedestrian walkway, enjoying a meal at the UFO restaurant, or simply admiring its architectural marvel from afar, the Most SNP is sure to leave a lasting impression.

Walking the Alleys of Bratislava's Old Town

We walk towards Hodžovo námestie square through some of the most beautiful streets of Bratislava's Old Town district (map).

Gunduličova street (Gunduličova ulica) is a short street located in the wider city center of Bratislava's Old Town. The street is named after Ivan Gundulić, a Croatian poet and dramatist who lived at the turn of the 17th century.

Gunduličova street

Sládkovičova street (Sládkovičova ulica) is a lively street situated within Bratislava's Old Town, offering a mix of historical charm and modern energy with a variety of shops, restaurants and cafes lining the street under beautiful buildings with architectural significance. Learning more about the Sládkovičova Street monuments (Sládkovičova ulica pamiatky) is an exciting adventure that we would love to return to Bratislava for.

Sládkovičova street

Tolstého street (Tolstého ulica) appears to be a pretty residential neighborhood with apartment buildings.

Tolstého street

We get back on Palisády Street (Palisády ulica) which we have met before at the Bratislava Castle. Palisády runs through the heart of Bratislava's Old Town forming a vital connection between Hodžovo námestie square and Bratislava Castle. The Danube River lies to the south of the street, offering scenic views in that direction.

Palisády Street

Walking through the streets of Bratislava's Old Town is like stepping back in time, with its enchanting architecture reflecting centuries of history. The Old Town is a captivating blend of Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Art Nouveau styles, showcasing the city's rich cultural heritage. Every corner reveals a new architectural marvel, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in the timeless beauty of Bratislava's historic streets.

Hodžovo square: Presidential Palace, Planet of Peace Fountain, the Embassies and more in the heart of Bratislava's Old Town

Palisády leads us into the spectacular Hodžovo Square (Hodžovo námestie), a major square and a central landmark in Bratislava, often considered to be the historic city center of Bratislava's Old Town quarter. It is situated at the edge of the Old Town, directly in front of the Slovak Presidential Palace, with a short walking distance from the historical city center.

Hodžovo Square

Other notable buildings surrounding the square include the Rococo/late Baroque Grassalkovich Palace (the official mansion of the President of the Slovak Republic), the Astoria Palace building and the former Hotel Forum which is an example of post-modern architecture. The Tatracenter is a shopping and commercial venue featuring two levels of stores and eateries with an underground garage.

Prezidentský palác / Grasalkovičov palác

The Presidential Palace, also known as Grasalkovičov Palace, is a rococo palace that now serves as the official residence of the President of the Slovak Republic. The palace was built between 1760 and 1765 for Count Anton Grasalkovič, a Hungarian nobleman and advisor to Maria Theresa.

Presidential Palace

The palace hosted lavish festivities and balls, attended by notable artists such as Joseph Haydn. In 1996, the palace became the official residence of the President of the Slovak Republic.

The palace is a two-story building with a richly decorated facade. The front features a balcony with wrought-iron railings and the coat of arms of the Slovak Republic. In front of the palace is an honorary courtyard where official ceremonies are held.

The interior of the palace features several representative rooms, such as the Main Hall, the Mirror Hall and the Chapel of St. Barbara. The palace also houses the President's office and other offices.

Behind the palace is a large English-style garden. The garden features a fountain, statues and a gazebo. The garden is open to the public and is a popular place for walks and relaxation.

Hodžovo square features a central landmark, the "Earth - Planet of Peace" fountain (Fontána mieru), gracing the entrance to the Presidential Palace. The centerpiece is a large, smooth sphere made of travertine, symbolizing our planet Earth. The sphere rests on a circular base and appears to float on a thin sheet of water, creating a sense of serenity.  While the fountain itself is not particularly large, it holds a significant presence in the square, especially at night when it comes alive with colorful illuminations.

"Earth - Planet of Peace" fountain

Hodžovo Square underwent significant reconstruction and renovation in the early 21st century, transforming it into a more pedestrian-friendly space and improving transportation access. It also features an underground passage with shops and fast-food restaurants.

Embassy of Austria, Astoria Palace

The Embassy of Austria (Veľvyslanectvo Rakúskej Republiky) in Bratislava is located in the Astoria Palace building at Hodža Square 1/A next to the Presidential Palace.

Embassy of Austria, Astoria Palace

The Astoria Palace is not a medieval palace but a modern polyfunctional building offering office and retail space in the prime location of Hodžovo Square.

Embassy of Hungary

The Embassy of Hungary (Magyarország Nagykövetsége Pozsony) is in the Art Nouveau building at Štefánikova 1 next to the Presidential Palace in Hodža Square.

Hungarian Embassy

Michael's Gate

Michael's Gate (Michalská brána) is the only surviving city gate of the medieval fortifications that once surrounded Bratislava. It was built around 1300 and is one of the oldest remaining structures in the city. The gate was named after a nearby Gothic Church of St. Michael which was demolished in the 16th century.

Michael's Gate and Old Cathedral of Saint John of Matha and Saint Felix of Valois: View looking south from Hodžovo square

Over the centuries, Michael's Gate served various functions, including a point of entry and control for the city, a prison and a weapons storage facility.

Michael's Gate showcases a blend of architectural styles, with a base reflecting the Romanesque period and a later Baroque renovation evident in the upper stories. The gate features a distinctive tower reaching 51 meters (167 feet) in height. Atop the tower stands a statue of St. Michael and the Dragon, a symbol of good triumphing over evil. The gatehouse itself has a portcullis and a drawbridge mechanism, remnants of its defensive purpose.

Today, Michael's Gate is a popular tourist attraction and a historical landmark in Bratislava. The Museum of Weapons, part of the Bratislava City Museum, is housed within the gate, showcasing a collection of weaponry and armor from various eras. Underneath the gate lies a "zero kilometer" marker, indicating the starting point for measuring distances to other Slovakian cities.

Michael's Gate and tower By jlascar, CC BY 2.0, Link

Michael's Gate remains a powerful symbol of Bratislava's rich history and its transformation from a medieval city to a modern metropolis.

Faculty of Music and Dance of the Academy of Performing Arts in Bratislava

The Faculty of Music and Dance of the Academy of Performing Arts in Bratislava (Hudobná a tanečná fakulta VŠMU) is a leading educational institution for talented artistic in the field of music and dance.

Music and Dance Faculty, Academy of Performing Arts in Bratislava

The music and dance faculty of VŠMU educates concert artists, singers, composers, conductors, musicologists, dramaturgs, managers, dance artists and choreographers.

St. Martin's Cathedral

Founded in the 14th century, construction of St. Martin's Cathedral (Dóm sv. Martina) continued well into the 15th century, making it one of Bratislava's oldest churches. This Roman Catholic cathedral of the Archdiocese of Bratislava holds immense significance. From 1563 to 1830, during Bratislava's time under Hungarian rule, it served as the coronation church for Hungarian kings and queens.

St. Martin's Cathedral

St. Martin Cathedral's Gothic style shines through with soaring ceilings, pointed arches and towering buttresses that support the structure. The facade is a masterpiece of intricate stonework and sculptures, with a central rose window adding a touch of elegance.

Dominating the skyline is the cathedral's single tower, reaching an impressive 85 meters (278 feet). It's the tallest church tower in Bratislava and its pinnacle is adorned with a significant symbol - a gilded replica of the Hungarian Holy Crown.

St. Martin's Cathedral

Beneath the cathedral lies the Coronation Crypt, a final resting place for Hungarian nobility. The Coronation Oratory is a hidden gem which houses relics and historical artifacts that bring the coronation ceremonies to life.

St. Martin's Cathedral remains an important place of worship. It regularly hosts religious services, along with cultural events like concerts and organ recitals. The top of the tower offers breathtaking vista of the city.

Bird bastion: Medieval City Walls

The Bird Bastion (Vtáčia bašta) is one of the most well-known and best-preserved fortifications of Bratislava's Medieval City Walls (Mestské hradby). A portion of the wall can be seen next to St. Martin's Cathedral.

Bird Bastion fortified city wall

The Bird Bastion was built in the 15th century as part of the second ring of fortifications around Bratislava. The fortified wall was named after a bird market that was held nearby. It has stood for centuries and has witnessed many changes in the city.

The fortification was one of several bastions built to protect the city from attack. The bastion was used for military purposes for centuries. It was involved in several battles, including the Battle of Bratislava in 1809.

Bird Bastion fortified city wall

In the 19th century, the bastion was converted into a park. Today, the Bird Bastion is a popular tourist destination. It offers stunning views of the city and the Danube River. It is a popular spot for concerts, festivals and other events.

The Capuchin Church: Church of St. Stephan of Hungary

Located at the historic County Square (Župné námestie), the Church of St. Stephen of Hungary (Kostol svätého Štefana Uhorského) is also known as the Capuchin Church (kapucínsky kostol). It holds a unique place in the city's religious landscape.

County Square with Capuchin church at left

The Kapucínska bus stop is right across the church which also has a beautiful garden called the Capuchin garden (Kapucínska záhrada).

Built between 1708 and 1717, St. Stephen's church was commissioned by Countess Eleonora Terézia and constructed by Capuchin friars in Baroque architectural style evident in its curved lines, decorative details and frescoes. While not a grand cathedral, the church boasts a harmonious and elegant facade.

Church of St. Stephen of Hungary (Capuchin Church)

Its main attraction is the Baroque main altar, created in 1737 by Capuchin Father Berthold. It features a central figure of St. Stephen of Hungary, the first King of Hungary, offering the crown to the Virgin Mary, the patron saint of Hungary. The interior is adorned with other religious paintings and sculptures, creating a prayerful atmosphere.

View of Bratislava Castle from County Square

Plague Column

The Plague Column (Morový stĺp) standing in front of the Church of King St. Stephen of Hungary was erected in 1723 (in the enlarged Roman numerals on the chronogram, i.e. "M+I+C+L+L+V+V+D+I+V+I+V", in the inscription add up to 1723), ten years after a deadly outbreak of the plague swept through Bratislava. The column is a Marian column, a type of religious structure dedicated to the Virgin Mary. This reflects the belief that the Virgin Mary interceded and protected the city from further devastation.

Plague Column

Plague Columns are a common sight in Central Europe (we saw one in Prague, the Czech Republic as well), each one a testament to the devastating impact of the plague and the enduring faith of the people.

Parliament House: National Council of the Slovak Republic Historic Building

The County House, formally called the Historic Building of the National Council of the Slovak Republic (Župný dom), is a significant landmark boasting a rich history and architectural elegance.  It is situated prominently in Župné námestie (County Square) in Bratislava's Old Town.

Constructed between 1750 and 1752, the building was originally commissioned by Count Jozef Erdődy, a prominent Hungarian nobleman. Over the years, it served various purposes, including housing the County Administration (Župa) - hence the name Župný dom - a court of law and a prison.

Following Slovakia's declaration of independence in 1993, the building underwent extensive renovations and became the seat of the National Council of the Slovak Republic, the country's unicameral parliament.

Parliament House of Slovakia: Historic Building of the National Council of the Slovak Republic

Župný dom exemplifies the Baroque architectural style, characterized by its symmetry, grand scale and decorative elements. The facade features a central projection with a balcony adorned with wrought-iron railings. Statues representing Justice, Wisdom and Commerce stand proudly above the main entrance, reflecting the original purpose of the building as a seat of county administration. A clock tower with a distinctive dome completes the structure, adding a touch of grandeur to the overall design. 

The limited-access interior of Župný dom is known for its opulent decorations, including frescoes, stuccoes and crystal chandeliers. The Grand Hall, the most impressive chamber, boasts a richly decorated ceiling and marble flooring. Due to its use as a government building, public access to the interior is generally restricted.

Župný dom serves as a powerful symbol of Slovakian sovereignty and a reminder of the country's historical journey. It is the center of Slovakian legislative power, where important decisions are made regarding the nation's future.

Trinitarian Church: Old Cathedral of Saint John of Matha and Saint Felix of Valois

The Old Cathedral of Saint John of Matha and Saint Felix of Valois (Holy Trinity), i.e. Farský kostol sv. Jána z Mathy (Trojička), is a Baroque church on the northern edge of Bratislava's historical center, dedicated to the Holy Trinity and St. John of Matha, founder of the Trinitarian Order. It is often simply referred to as the Holy Trinity Church (Trojičný kostol) and is literally attached to the eastern end of the Župný dom parliament building. The church never held cathedral status, so "Old Cathedral" is a misnomer.

Old Cathedral of Saint John of Matha and Saint Felix of Valois

The church was funded by Count Juraj Erdödy and built between 1717-1725 by the Trinitarians on the site of an older church. The architecture is Baroque with rich ornamentation. The facade features pilasters, windows with decorative trim and a statue of the Holy Trinity above the main entrance.

The interior boasts frescoes, stuccowork and sculptures. The main altar is dedicated to the Holy Trinity and side altars honor Trinitarian saints. A prominent Baroque church and pilgrimage site, it houses a revered statue of the Virgin Mary of Trnava, crowned in 1922.

Today, the church serves as the parish church for the Holy Trinity parish, with regular religious services and activities. It's also a popular tourist attraction.

Return to Bratislava Castle and on to Budapest, Hungary!

From the Holy Trinity Church, we walk back to the Bratislava Castle and get back on the road to cross the international border into Hungary and explore Europe's most beautiful city: Budapest.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and Gemini.