Turkmenistan Summarized: Jähennem Derwezesi (Derweze / Darvaza - Door to Hell), Marble Dreams, Iconic Silk Road Caravanserais & Ancient Canyons

by - April 24, 2025

A summary of the five-episode blog series marking the beginning of The Vagabond Couple's Silk Road Overland Odyssey

Askhab Mausoleum, Merv, Turkmenistan
Askhab Mausoleum, Merv, Turkmenistan

Hello, fellow explorers! We’re the Vagabond Couple, and this is the story of our journey across one of the world’s most mysterious and magnificent countries—Turkmenistan. This adventure, fully documented in the 5-part blog series linked below, is just the first chapter in our worldwide mission: to retrace the ancient Silk Road by land, from the shores of Africa all the way to the heart of Asia. We follow the old camel and horse trade routes, seeking the living cultures, epic histories, and breathtaking geography that continues to shape our world.

Turkmenistan was our starting block, a place where the Silk Road’s legacy is written in desert stone and eternal fire. We drove every mile of it, and you can see our entire overlanding route right here: Vagabond Couple Turkmenistan Overland Road Trip. Now, let us tell you about the highlights.

Part 1: Welcome to the White City

Our story begins at: Turkmenistan | Part 1 | Neo-Monumentalist Ashgabat, Caspian Sea Port city of Turkmenbashi & Turkmen Overnight Sleeper Train Ride

We arrived in Ashgabat, and it felt like stepping onto another planet. The city is a forest of gleaming white marble, with golden domes and monuments so grand they left us speechless. We learned it holds at least one Guinness World Record, possibly multiple! The vibe was surreal—wide, spotless boulevards with more traffic police than cars.

Ashgabat, Turkmenistan
Ashgabat, Turkmenistan

We saw the marble monuments, old city and the stunning Akhal-Teke horse statue, a tribute to the legendary “heavenly horses” of Turkmenistan, before catching an overnight train to the port city of Türkmenbaşy (Gateway to Central Asia) on the Caspian Sea. This first leg was a powerful introduction to a nation that proudly builds its future in marble and myth.

Train to Turkmenbashi at platform at Ashgabat Train Station
Train to Turkmenbashi at Ashgabat Train Station

For us, Ashgabat wasn’t just a capital; it was a bold statement, our first glimpse of a unique modern identity being forged in the heart of the desert.

Part 2: Fire Canyon & Noah's Tree

The adventure into the wild continues here: Turkmenistan | Part 2 | Karakum Desert, Yangykala Canyon, Balkan Province, Balkanabat, Nokhur Village, a Tree where Noah's Family Sheltered & Kow Ata Underground Geothermal Lake

Then, we dove into the wild! Our 4x4 took us into the heart of the Karakum Desert to a place that stole our breath: Yangykala Canyon. The name means “Fortress of Fire,” and at sunset, the layered red and white cliffs truly look ablaze. The geology is incredible—this was once an ancient seabed. Next, we found magic in the Kopet Dag Mountains in Nokhur village.

Crocodile's Mouth overhang above Yangykala Canyon, Turkmenistan
"Crocodile's Mouth" overhang above Yangykala Canyon, Turkmenistan

Legends say the villagers are descendants of Alexander the Great’s soldiers. We shared a feast with a local family, slept on thick carpets, and visited a sacred, hollow plane tree believed to have sheltered Noah’s family after the great flood. In these moments, we felt the raw, beautiful soul of Turkmenistan—both the dramatic, untouched earth and its deep, welcoming human history.

Part 3: The Door to Hell

We faced the eternal flames in this chapter: Turkmenistan | Part 3 | DARVAZA - Jähennem derwezesi (Gate of Hell) | The closest thing on Earth to an alien planet!

Every epic journey needs a pivotal wonder, and Turkmenistan has one of the greatest on Earth. After a bumpy ride past camel caravans and curious desert dogs, we reached the Darvaza Gas Crater. In 1971, a Soviet drilling rig collapsed into a gas cavern, and they lit it on fire to prevent disaster. They thought it would burn for weeks. It’s still burning today.

Darvaza - Door to Hell | Jähennem Derwezesi
Darvaza - Door to Hell (Jähennem Derwezesi)

They call it the Turkmen equivalent of Jahannam Derweze - the “Door to Hell,” and standing before its 70-meter-wide mouth of roaring flames at night is an experience that humbles you. The heat, the roar, the orange glow on the sand—it’s the planet showing its raw, untamed power. Derweze is more than a tourist spot; it’s a monumental reminder of human accident and nature’s enduring force, a sight that etches itself into your memory forever.

Part 4: Walking with Silk Road Ghosts

We walked with ancient empires here: Turkmenistan | Part 4 | The Silk Road’s Beating Heart - Nisa to Merv

As Silk Road pilgrims, this part of the journey was sacred to us. We started at Old Nisa, the ruins of the Parthian Empire’s first capital. Then, we drove to a place we’d dreamed of: Ancient Merv. Once the largest city in the world in the 12th century, it’s now a vast, silent UNESCO site in the desert. We walked through the majestic Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum and touched the strange, ribbed walls of the Great Kyz Kala.

Great Kyz Kala, Merv, Turkmenistan
Great Kyz Kala, Merv, Turkmenistan

To stand in the center of what was a crossroads for all humanity—where goods, ideas, and faiths from China to the Mediterranean met—was the exact reason we began this global overland journey. The silence here speaks volumes, making the ancient trade routes we are following feel vividly, powerfully real. Interestingly, we will come back to visit the equally historic Silk Road crossroads city of Bukhara across Amu Darya river on our way back on the Silk Road from Africa to India!

Part 5: The River of Kings & The Last Caravanserai of Turkmenistan

Our journey along the Oxus concluded here: Turkmenistan | Part 5 | DAYAHATYN CARAVANSERAI, AMU DARYA (OXUS) RIVER DREAMS & TURKMENISTAN DESERT FORTRESSES

For our final act, we chased the Silk Road to the edge of the country. We drove to the banks of the legendary Amu Darya River, known in history as the Oxus. This river was a border and a lifeline for empires from Alexander the Great to Genghis Khan.

Dayahatyn Caravanserai, Turkmenistan
Dayahatyn Caravanserai, Turkmenistan

Nearby, down a bone-rattling desert track, we found the Dayahatyn Caravanserai. This 11th-century sandstone fortress-inn is slowly being restored. Standing in its courtyard, we could almost hear the camels and merchants who found shelter here a thousand years ago. Watching the sunset paint the Oxus gold was the perfect, poetic end to our Turkmenistan chapter, a direct and powerful link to the endless journey we’ve embarked upon.

Table 1: From the Caspian to the Oxus: Mapping the Layers of Turkmenistan's Silk Road

More than just a list of stops, the following table unravels the layers of our Turkmenistan expedition. It charts the journey from the Caspian Sea port to the banks of the legendary Oxus River, connecting the dots between dramatic geology, imperial history, and living mythology. Use it to follow the path of traders, explorers, and the folklore they inspired across the Karakum Desert.

Analysis of the Vagabond Couple's Turkmenistan Silk Road Route
Order Location (Map Marker) Odometer (km) Approx. Altitude (m) Geology & Geography History & Silk Road Significance Culture, Mythology & Folklore
1 Turkmenbashi 0 27 Port on the eastern shore of the Caspian Sea. Coastal plain. Major seaport and transport hub. Historically connected overland routes to maritime trade across the Caspian to the Caucasus and Persia. A blend of Soviet-era infrastructure and modern development. The starting point of the journey, known for its overnight sleeper train.
2 Yangykala Canyon 450 200 Spectacular sedimentary canyon in the Karakum Desert. Vibrant bands of red, white, and pink rock. Remnants, including seashells, of an ancient seabed (Tethys Ocean). A formidable natural landmark caravans navigated around. "Fortress of Fire": Named for its sunset colors. Legends speak of fire spirits guarding the cliffs, and the "Crocodile's Mouth" formation is said to be a petrified beast. The vibrant hues are mythically stained by the blood of ancient heroes.
3 Nokhur Village 850 1100 Isolated village high in the Kopet Dag mountains, near Iran. Village of mythical origin; locals claim descent from Alexander the Great's soldiers. A preserved cultural pocket. Sacred Tree: The ancient Plane Tree's hollow is locally believed to have sheltered Noah's family after the biblical Flood. Unique Customs: Goat horns on graves ward off spirits. The shrine of Giz Bibi and the guardian Pari (fairies) are central to local Sufi and animist lore.
4 Kow Ata Underground Lake 950 -65 Limestone cave with a large, warm thermal lake in the Kopet Dag foothills. A natural geothermal spring, likely used for centuries for bathing and healing. "Father of the Caves". The mineral-rich, warm waters are surrounded by local lore regarding health and mystical properties.
5 Ashgabat 1150 220 Foothills of the Kopet Dag. A white marble city in a desert oasis. Modern capital built post-1948 earthquake. Symbol of contemporary national identity. The "White City": Known for its world-record marble buildings and monumental architecture, like the golden Akhal-Teke horse statue.
6 Old Nisa 1250 250 Fortress ruins on a hillock at the Kopet Dag's edge. UNESCO Site. Capital of the Parthian Empire, a major power that rivaled Rome. Archaeological Treasure: Site of famed ivory rhytons. The "Parthian shot" (shooting backwards from horseback) entered military legend from here.
7 Darvaza Gas Crater 1550 150 Man-made collapsed gas cavern, burning since 1971, in the Karakum Desert. Accidental result of Soviet gas exploration. A modern industrial landmark. "The Door to Hell". Its eternal flames inspire tales of djinn and curses. A common traveler ritual is a vodka toast poured into the crater.
8 Ancient Merv 1850 230 Series of walled oasis cities on the Murghab River delta. UNESCO Site. Known as "The Queen of the World"; one of the largest cities on Earth in the 12th century. The supreme Silk Road nexus. City of Ghosts: Destroyed by the Mongols in 1221. Home to the Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum and the corrugated Great Kyz Kala. Legends speak of lost libraries and Sanjar's ghost.
9 Mary 1870 220 Modern oasis city on the Murghab River, near Merv. Founded in 1884 as a Russian military outpost. The modern gateway to Merv. Features the striking permanent three-level yurt ("White House"), a modern tribute to nomadic heritage.
10 Dayahatyn Caravanserai 2100 250 11th-century sandstone fortress-caravanserai on the bank of the Amu Darya (Oxus). A fortified inn providing critical shelter for caravans crossing the Karakum. Marked the frontier. A Desert Sanctuary. Tales tell of thieves swallowed by the earth here. The Oxus River nearby is theorized by some scholars to be the biblical Pishon River of Eden.
11 Amul (Turkmenabat) 2150 190 Modern city on the Amu Darya River (Oxus). Fertile floodplain. Site of ancient Amul, a major Silk Road crossing point and town for millennia. Local legend mentions a djinn guarding the city's tower. As the main city on the Oxus, it sits on the river some early traditions link to the Pishon, connecting it to biblical geography.
12 Urugench Border Crossing 2250 100 Flat, arid plains of the Amu Darya Delta, transitioning into the Kyzylkum Desert (Uzbekistan). Major historical crossing point between the Khwarezm region and Transoxiana. Controls the route to the Silk Road cities of Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand. A modern geopolitical frontier. Crossing here represents the transition from Turkmenistan's isolated landscapes into Uzbekistan's heartland of iconic Silk Road cities, echoing the passage of ancient caravans.

The Road Rolls On: From Asia to Europe to Africa and Beyond

Turkmenistan was the perfect, dramatic prologue to our years-long overland quest. It gave us everything: surreal modernity, profound ancient history, geological wonders, and unforgettable hospitality.

Turkmen camel: Riding a ship of the Karakum Desert
Turkmen camel: Riding a ship of the Karakum Desert 

But as the saying goes, the road never ends—it just leads to the next horizon. Our mission to trace the entire Silk Road network is now in full motion. And the journey has already continued! From the banks of the Oxus, we pointed our wheels northwest. The next chapter of our voyage—the long overland roll from the Caucasus, across the vastness of Eastern European towards the Strait of Gibraltar and ferry to Morocco, Africa (and from there, back across Europe and the Caucasus, to Central Asia and India) — is now being written. You can join us as we traverse mountains, steppes, and historic frontiers in our next series, which starts at: Georgia, Turkey, Greece into North Macedonia: Black Sea Dreams & Bosporus Crossings - Our Overland Journey from Asia to Europe.

Each mile connects us more deeply to the dust of the camels, the dreams of the merchants, and the shared, resilient soul of humanity we are discovering. Turkmenistan taught us that this story is not in books; it's written in the landscapes and in the welcome of the people.

The caravan moves on. The long road awaits, and we are so glad you're with us. Follow us here at The Vagabond Couple Travel Blog, and also The Vagabond Couple on YouTube and The Vagabond Couple on Facebook.

Onward,
The Vagabond Couple

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