Natural map of Africa at sea-facing entrance to Hercules Caves in Tangier, Morocco

After days of rolling across continents with Shehzadi, our ever-faithful Toyota Tundra pickup, we finally rumbled into Tangier, Morocco, Africa disembarking a ferry from Algeciras, Spain, Europe under a lavender North African sunset. We'd made it. From Asia to Europe and now to Africa (here's a map). A quick night in a cozy hotel tucked between bustling streets and sea breezes gave us the reset we needed. Morning came with the scent of salt and coffee and we were ready to let Tangier tell its story.

Statue of Ibn Battuta at his Museum in Medina of Tangier, Morocco

Tangier isn’t just a city; it’s a crossroads. A place where continents shake hands, where the Mediterranean kisses the Atlantic and where history has been scribbled in layers by empires. Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, Portuguese, Spanish, French — all have left their fingerprints here. It feels like the whole Silk Road took a detour and decided to have lunch in Tangier.

We hit the road with Shehzadi, cruising through the various districts of the city. Tangier is a patchwork of colonial charm and Moroccan soul. The French left their mark with wide boulevards and art deco buildings in the Ville Nouvelle, the newer part of the city. It feels like Casablanca's cool little sibling. Spanish architecture pops up with ornate balconies and Andalusian flair in some residential quarters, while Portuguese touches remain mostly in older fortifications. Each district feels like a different era decided to set up shop.

Eventually, we made our way to the old heart of it all: the Medina. A Medina, by the way, is the old walled part of many North African cities. Think narrow alleys, ancient doors, hidden courtyards and the smell of cumin in the air. Tangier’s Medina is no exception — a maze of memory.

Bab Kasba

We entered through Bab Kasba, one of the main gates. This isn't just any old gate; it opens directly into the historic Kasbah district, the fortress quarter that once defended the city from pirates, invaders and maybe even nosy tourists. The gates of the Medina are like portals.

Bab Bhar (Sea Gate)

Bab Bhar, the Sea Gate, opens toward the ocean, offering one of the most iconic staircases in the city: Les Escaliers du Bab Bhar.

View of Strait of Gibraltar from the Staircase at Bab Bhar

We paused here, catching our breath and soaking in a sweeping panorama where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet like old friends.

From there, we wandered toward Bab Haha. Despite the giggle-worthy name,

Bab Haha

Haha is serious business — the Military Gate, named after the Haha Berber tribe, known for their strength and toughness. You can almost feel the strategic importance of these gates, how they framed access and defense in a city constantly in the crosshairs of history.

Ibn Battuta Museum

Our first major stop inside the Medina was the Ibn Battuta Museum. Nestled in a traditional Moroccan house, the museum honors one of the greatest travelers of all time — and Tangier's most legendary son.

Statue of Ibn Battuta at the Museum

Ibn Battuta, the 14th-century explorer who basically treated the planet like his personal backyard, was born right here.

One of the cannons pointing at the Strait of Gibraltar at roof of Ibn Battuta Museum

The museum does a fabulous job bringing his travels to life with maps, artifacts and even cannons on the roof (because why not?).

View of Strait of Gibraltar from roof of Ibn Battuta Museum

From that rooftop, you get a killer view of the Strait of Gibraltar, the same waters Ibn Battuta once sailed across.

Even the airport here is named after him, which feels right. Tangier is in his bones. His restless spirit is all over this city, inspiring us to wander sometimes with purpose.

One of the countless alleys of the Medina of Tanger

We zigzagged through the Medina’s alleys, past stalls selling leather slippers, woven baskets and enough spices to make your nose go numb.

Ibn Battuta Memorial House

We stopped at the Ibn Battuta Memorial, a more humble tribute than the museum but touching nonetheless. Then we stumbled upon the Jedida Mosque, a beautiful if less-visited mosque with a lovely minaret peeking above the rooftops.

Jedida Mosque

And then, Rue d’Amerique. This old street leads you to the American Legation Museum, which might just be the coolest diplomatic building on the planet.

American Legation Museum

Here’s a fun bit of trivia: Morocco was the first country to recognize the United States as an independent nation. That makes this Legation the oldest American diplomatic mission anywhere.

Bab Merican

The museum is packed with history, from George Washington letters to Moroccan art. It’s a gorgeous blend of Moroccan architecture and American idealism.

Bab Merican

Right next to it is Bab Merican — you guessed it, the American Gate. Somehow, it all makes sense. In Tangier, everything is connected.

Petit Socco, Tanger

Before leaving the heart of the city, we ducked into the Petit Socco — once a notorious haunt of spies, artists and beat poets, now a charming plaza ringed with cafes and shops.

Petit Socco, Tanger

We sipped on thick espresso at a rickety little table while watching the world saunter by, then ventured into the Grand Socco, the bigger, brasher cousin just up the hill.

Street outside Grand Socco, Tanger

The Grand Socco was buzzing. A dizzying mashup of vegetable stalls, spice towers, cassette vendors and everything you never thought you'd need but somehow wanted.

Grand Socco, Tanger

We picked up a few essentials for the road — dates, olives, some sardines in funky little tins and a handful of mysterious but promising-looking snacks. This trip isn't over yet and you never know what you'll need when you're cruising from coast to coast.

By now, we were completely enchanted and very, very hungry.

Bab Al Fahs

So we left the Medina through Bab Al Fahs, a wide and busy gate leading back into the newer parts of the city. From there, we drove up toward the Mirador de Rmilat, also known as Perdicaris Park. This is a green hilltop escape from the buzz below. With winding forest paths, eucalyptus groves and dramatic views of the Strait, it feels like nature is showing off.

The park is named after Ion Perdicaris, an eccentric Greek-American kidnapped in 1904, leading to one of the weirdest international incidents ever. Roosevelt famously said, "Perdicaris alive or Raisuli dead!" Long story short, everyone survived and the park is now a favorite picnic spot.

Lunch Overlooking Strait of Gibraltar at Perdicaris Park (Mirador de Rmilat), Tangier, Morocco

We found a terraced hillside with scattered tables overlooking the sea. Tarifa, Spain, shimmered across the water. It felt unreal. The lunch? Let’s just say it involved lamb tagine, olives that tasted like they’d been marinated by the gods and mint tea that could wake the dead. Absolute magic.

Atlantic - Mediterranean Divide at Cape Spartel, Tanger

Bellies full, we pointed Shehzadi toward Cape Spartel. This is where the Atlantic crashes into the Mediterranean.

Atlantic - Mediterranean Divide at Cape Spartel, Tanger

Cape Spartel, jutting out into the sea just west of Tangier, is where Africa reaches toward Europe and the Mediterranean hands off to the Atlantic. It’s a place heavy with history and salt air, with waves crashing below rugged cliffs and legends clinging to the rocks. Tarifa, Spain was practically waving at us from across the Strait.

Atlantic - Mediterranean Divide at Cape Spartel, Tanger

At its edge stands the Cape Spartel Lighthouse — a timeless sentinel first lit in 1864, built by Moroccan authorities with French assistance. Rising 24 meters high and painted in soft ochre tones, the lighthouse is surrounded by arched windows, white trim and a classic lantern tower that’s still guiding ships today, its beam cutting across the place where oceans meet.

Cape Spartel Lighthouse

Just outside the main building lies something quietly poetic — a round Sunset Catcher set into the terrace, seemingly placed without fanfare. But stand there at sunset between June and August and the reason becomes clear. As the sun drops toward the horizon, it aligns perfectly with the eye of the disc, creating a fleeting portal of light.

Sunset Catcher disc at Cape Spartel

It’s as if the builders carved a frame into the Earth to honor the end of the day. Travelers and locals gather there not just for the view, but for the moment — a daily performance where the sun slides into the sea, captured through that quiet, intentional circle.

Sunset Catcher disc at Cape Spartel

Before heading down, we took a moment to walk along Achakkar Beach, just below the Achakkar Viewpoint near Cape Spartel. The sand stretched wide and clean, the Atlantic waves rolled in with a calm rhythm and the cliffs loomed nearby like silent guardians. Families were scattered along the shore, kids darting in and out of the surf and the whole scene had the laid-back magic of a place caught between land and legend.. The sand was golden, the waves rhythmic and the salty wind carried a kind of ancient calm. Locals were out for sunset strolls and a few brave kids were still splashing in the surf. It felt like a secret slice of serenity tucked between continents.

But the real gem here lies underground.

Hercules Caves - Sea-facing entrance (rough natural map of Africa)

We descended into the Hercules Caves, a natural grotto steeped in myth. The entrance facing the sea is shaped like a rough map of Africa and standing there feels like being in the center of some ancient dream. According to legend, this is where Hercules rested after parting the mountains to create the Strait of Gibraltar. Whether myth or marketing, it's hard not to be swept away by the vibe. The caves are damp, echoey and filled with carvings and artwork that hint at the layers of civilization that have passed through.

Hercules Caves

As the sun dipped lower, we made our way back to our hotel. The wind carried sea salt and distant laughter. Tangier had given us a day that felt like a hundred stories wrapped into one.

Tomorrow, we’d be heading to Chefchaouen, the blue pearl of Morocco. But tonight? Tonight, we slept like rocks.

Shehzadi parked. Shoes off. Minds buzzing. Hearts full.

- The Vagabond Couple & Shehzadi