View of Fatih, Istanbul from the Bosphorus

Istanbul, a city straddling two continents, effortlessly blends the ancient and the modern, offering a mesmerizing tapestry of history, culture and diversity. From the majestic domes and minarets that adorn its skyline to the bustling markets teeming with vibrant colors and scents, every corner of Istanbul whispers stories of its rich past. The city's iconic landmarks (MAP), such as the majestic Hagia Sophia and the enchanting Blue Mosque, stand as testaments to its illustrious heritage, while its vibrant neighborhoods pulsate with the energy of a metropolis that never sleeps. Along the Bosporus, the city's lifeline, ferryboats glide past palaces and waterfront mansions, offering a glimpse into Istanbul's timeless allure. With its captivating blend of East and West, Istanbul beckons travelers to immerse themselves in its captivating charm and unravel the mysteries of its storied past.

We start our exploration of Istanbul from the new Istanbul Airport, also known as İstanbul Havalimanı. Opened in 2019, it's a massive international hub boasting the title of the second-busiest airport in Europe.

İstanbul Havalimanı

İstanbul Havalimanı replaced the older Atatürk Airport for all commercial passenger flights. This new airport is a major transportation player, serving over 114 countries and acting as the hub for Turkish Airlines. Despite its young age, it already ranks among the top 10 busiest airports worldwide based on passenger traffic.

We take a cab to the Grand Beyazıt Hotel which we reserved our rooms at based on its prime location in the heart of Istanbul's historic Sultanahmet district.

Mithat Paşa Cd & Abu Hayat Sk intersection

This means we will be stepping right into the vibrant atmosphere of Istanbul's Old City. Major tourist attractions like the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque are all within a leisurely 10-minute walk. We will also be close to public transportation options for venturing further afield.

Istanbul is a city where ice cream is more than just a treat; it's a delightful experience. The famous Turkish ice cream, known as "dondurma" is a must-try, not just for its rich, creamy flavor but for the unique way it's served. Vendors, often dressed in traditional attire, perform a playful, interactive routine with customers, using long-handled paddles to stretch and twirl the ice cream. They hand it to you, only to swiftly take it back with a skillful twist, much to the amusement of onlookers. This fun exchange, combined with the delicious and stretchy texture of dondurma, makes buying ice cream in Istanbul a memorable and entertaining moment, perfect for all ages. The city's many ice cream stands, especially in bustling areas like Sultanahmet and Taksim, offer a variety of flavors, often accompanied by the charming sounds of laughter and delight from those enjoying this sweet Istanbul tradition.

Early next morning, we have breakfast served by the Grand Beyazıt Hotel at its top floor. In addition to the excellent and very filling breakfast, the restaurant offers great views of the Bosporus.

Breakfast with views of the Bosphorus at Grand Beyazıt Hotel

After breakfast, we walk down the few steps from our hotel to the Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı tram stop. Istanbul's tram mass transit system is an integral part of the city's public transportation network, seamlessly connecting various neighborhoods and historical landmarks. With its modern trams gliding through the bustling streets, the system offers a convenient and efficient way for both locals and tourists to navigate the city.

Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı tram stop

From the historic Sultanahmet district, where the iconic Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia stand proudly, to the vibrant Taksim Square bustling with shops and restaurants, the tram system provides easy access to Istanbul's most popular destinations.

Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı tram stop

With frequent services and easy-to-use ticketing systems, travelers can hop on and off to explore the city's rich tapestry of culture, history and modernity. We take a tram from the Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı stop to the Sultanahmet tram stop just two stops to the east, crossing Beyazıt and Çemberlıtaş. Getting off at Sultanahmet, we are at Sultanahmet Parkı (Sultanahmet Park) attached to the Sultanahmet Camii, popularly known as the Blue Mosque.

Sultanahmet Parkı

Sultanahmet Parkı is a part of the greater Sultanahmet Meydanı (Sultanahmet Square) which is a large public square located in the Sultanahmet district. Sultanahmet Meydanı is a popular spot for tourists and offers beautiful views of Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.

Sultanahmet Meydanı: Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) at left, Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque) at right

There are rows of wooden benches located right in front of the Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Mosque) in Sultanahmet Square. These benches provide a great spot for visitors to relax, take in the beauty of the mosque's architecture and people-watch. The benches even feature the emblem of Istanbul.

Benches in front of Blue Mosque

The official emblem of Istanbul was designed in 1969 and features several elements that represent the city's rich history and unique geography. Seven triangles represent the seven hills upon which Istanbul was built. The walls flanking the triangles symbolize the historical fortifications (city walls) of Istanbul. The silhouette of mosques with their minarets pays homage to Istanbul's Islamic heritage and the many mosques that grace its skyline. The lower portion of the emblem depicts the Bosporus Strait, the strategic waterway that separates the European and Asian sides of Istanbul and connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and Mediterranean Sea.

Official Emblem of Istanbul

The Sultanahmet Camii (Blue Mosque) is a stunning architectural landmark and active mosque in Istanbul, Turkey. Built between 1609 and 1617, the Blue Mosque boasts a grand design with a cascading series of domes and minarets. Its silhouette dominates the skyline of Istanbul alongside the Hagia Sophia. The nickname "Blue Mosque" comes from the vast interior walls adorned with Iznik tiles which have a beautiful blue hue when light hits them.

Blue Mosque upper part (composite)

Iznik tiles are decorated ceramics that were produced from the last quarter of the 15th century until the end of the 17th century in the town of Iznik, Anatolia (now Türkiye). They are known for their vibrant colors, intricate designs and high quality.

Iznik tile from Turkey, Ottoman empire, 17th century, composite body (quartz, clay and glass frit), Dayton Art Institute Wmpearl, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

Iznik pottery production reached its peak during the Ottoman Empire, particularly during the reign of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent (1494-1566). The Ottomans placed a high value on these tiles and they were used to adorn mosques, palaces and other important buildings.

Model of Blue Mosque

The production of Iznik tiles involved a complex process. First, the clay body was shaped into the desired form. Then the tiles were decorated with a slip containing metallic oxides, which created the vibrant colors. Finally, the tiles were glazed and fired in a kiln.

Blue Mosque seen from wall of Hagia Sophia

The Sultanahmet Camii is a prime example of Ottoman era architecture. Mimar Sinan, the famed architect, is said to have been inspired by the Hagia Sophia but aimed to surpass it in size and grandeur. The mosque incorporates features like multiple minarets and a central dome reflecting Ottoman mosque design.

Blue Mosque viewed from Arasta Bazaar / Otopark parking lot at Sultan Ahmet Mh, Torun Sk. No:26

Unfortunately for us but great for the Blue Mosque, it is undergoing restoration when we visit. Scaffolding is visible from the outside and parts of the interior are closed off. While this means we cannot see the entirety of the mosque's beauty, the restoration is necessary to preserve this historic landmark. The entire dome in invisible due to scaffolding below it, though there is a thoughtful picture of the dome hung below the scaffolding that tries to give an idea of what it looks like.

Schematic installed during restoration of dome of Blue Mosque

Stepping inside the Blue Mosque is an awe-inspiring experience. The vast space feels airy and light, thanks to the large windows and the use of blue and white tiles. The intricate calligraphy and floral motifs decorating the walls and dome add to the beauty and serenity of the place.

Interior of Blue Mosque with dome hidden by scaffolding due to restoration work

Unlike the Hagia Sophia, the Sultanahmet Camii remains a functioning mosque. While a section is dedicated to tourists entering outside of prayer times, the mosque is primarily a place of worship for Muslims. Respectful clothing that covers shoulders and knees is recommended for visitors.

Interior of Interior of Blue Mosque - dome hidden by scaffolding due to restoration work

The Blue Mosque is a major tourist attraction and a significant landmark in Istanbul's history. It represents the golden age of Ottoman architecture and continues to be a place of cultural and religious importance.

Interior of Blue Mosque

The Hagia Sophia, meaning "Holy Wisdom" in Greek, is a truly magnificent structure in Istanbul, Türkiye. It has a fascinating history, having served as a church, a mosque and now a museum. Interestingly, in the context of Istanbul's Hagia Sophia and the stunning Saint Sophia's Cathedral in Kyiv, Saint Sophia does not refer to an individual saint but to the concept of Holy Wisdom. The term "Sophia" comes from the Greek word for wisdom, and "Hagia Sophia" literally translates to "Holy Wisdom." The Hagia Sophia and Kyiv's Saint Sophia's cathedral are dedicated to the Holy Wisdom of God, a central theme in Christian theology that represents divine wisdom, which was personified in the Bible, particularly in the books of Proverbs and the Wisdom of Solomon.

Hagia Sophia view from Sultan Ahmet Park (Sultanahmet Meydanı)

Hagia Sophia is also known as Ayasofya. The building was initially a church constructed by the Byzantine Empire between 532 and 537 under emperor Justinian I and his wife Theodora. Hagia Sophia was the largest cathedral in the world for almost a thousand years. Its most famous feature is the massive dome, a pioneering feat of engineering for its time. The interior is vast and airy, with light streaming through large windows and intricate mosaics adorning the walls (though some are covered). It is considered to be one of the most important buildings in the history of the Roman Empire and one of the greatest achievements of Byzantine architecture.

Hagia Sophia view from Sultan Ahmet Park (Sultanahmet Meydanı)

Hagia Sophia Shadirvan (Fountain Hagia Sophia), also known as the Shadirvan Fountain, Ahmet Fountain (Ahmet Çeşmesi) and the Fountain of Ahmed III is located in the western corner of the outer plaza of the Hagia Sophia. Commissioned by Sultan Ahmed III in the early 18th century, this exquisite marble fountain serves as a vital source of water for visitors, worshippers and travelers to the revered Hagia Sophia complex. Designed in the classic Ottoman style, the Ahmet Fountain boasts intricate carvings, elegant arches and decorative elements that reflect the artistic craftsmanship of the era. Its central dome is supported by eight marble columns, while ornate reliefs adorn the facade, depicting motifs of floral patterns, calligraphy and geometric designs.

Ahmet Fountain (Shadirvan Fountain)

Hagia Sophia reflects the changing tides of Istanbul's history. Originally a Christian church, it was converted into a mosque after the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453. During its time as a mosque, minarets were added to the exterior. In 1931, it was secularized and turned into a museum, allowing visitors to appreciate both its Christian and Islamic heritage.

Hagia Sophia entrance into Narthex entrance hall

Hagia Sophia is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a major landmark of Istanbul. It's a popular tourist destination, admired for its architectural beauty, historical significance and the blend of religious influences within its walls.

The Tomb of Princes (Şehzadeler Türbesi), located within the Hagia Sophia complex, is not as well-known as some of the other tombs there, but it's still an interesting piece of Ottoman history and architecture.

Tomb of Princes (Şehzadeler Türbesi) & Former Baptistery of Hagia Sophia

The Tomb of Princes was built in the mid-16th century by Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent for his four sons who died before him, along with his daughter Mihrimah Sultan. The exterior of the tomb is fairly plain, with a brick-covered floor and limestone walls. It has a large dome and appears octagonal from the outside, but it's actually quadrilateral on the inside. The entrance is the most interesting exterior feature, with interlocking wooden laths in geometric shapes creating a decorative facade. The interior walls are a different story. They are beautifully decorated with floral motifs, hand-drawn ornaments, ribbons and flowers in baskets. This bright and colorful interior creates a peaceful atmosphere. There's also a smaller baptistery, sometimes called the Former Baptistery of Hagia Sophia, located next to the beautiful door (northwest entrance) of the Hagia Sophia. This baptistery has a more documented history. During Hagia Sophia's time as a Byzantine church, this baptistery was likely used for baptisms. After the Hagia Sophia's conversion into a mosque, the baptistry's function changed. The Ottomans reportedly used it as a storage room for lamp oil and later converted it into a mausoleum for Sultans Mustafa I and Ibrahim. Today: The mausoleum is still present within the Hagia Sophia. The marble baptismal font from the baptistery is now on display within the Hagia Sophia.

The narthex is the entrance hall of the Hagia Sophia located at the western end of the iconic structure. It serves as a grand introduction to the splendor within. Stepping into this vestibule, visitors are immediately struck by its vastness and grandeur.

Narthex

The Narthex features a series of imposing marble columns that support intricately adorned arches, creating a sense of architectural magnificence.

Narthex

The Narthex walls are adorned with stunning mosaics and frescoes, depicting scenes from religious narratives and Byzantine history, offering a glimpse into the cultural richness of the Hagia Sophia.

Narthex: Hagia Sophia Entrance Hall

As visitors pass through the Narthex, they are transported back in time, experiencing the grandeur and majesty of one of the world's most celebrated architectural masterpieces.

The Hagia Sofia dome, one of the largest in the world, is undoubtedly its most striking feature. It is famous for its enormous size and its innovative design, which creates the illusion that the dome is floating.

Hagia Sophia Dome (composite transverse mercator projection)

The dome was designed by Byzantine architects Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles. It was a groundbreaking achievement in architecture as one of the first to employ a fully pendentive dome. Pendentives are triangular shaped supports that eased the transition from the square base below to the circular dome above. This design allowed for a much larger dome than had previously been possible.

Hagia Sophia Dome (composite perspective projection)

The dome of Hagia Sofia is 31.7 meters (104 feet) in diameter and 55.6 meters (182 feet) high from the floor level. It is surrounded by 40 windows which fill the interior with natural light and also help to reduce the weight of the dome.

Hagia Sophia Dome

The dome is made of brick and mortar, a surprisingly light material for such a large structure. It has survived for centuries despite several earthquakes and one partial collapse in the 6th century. Hagia Sofia's dome is a true marvel of engineering and architecture.

Hagia Sophia Dome (composite transverse spherical projection)

The Hagia Sophia's nave is the central rectangular space beneath the massive dome. It was designed as a large, open area for worshippers to gather for services.

Entering Hagia Sophia Nave via Beautiful Door

The nave is truly awe-inspiring. It is flanked by enormous columns of green and red marble, topped by intricate capitals. The walls were once adorned with mosaics, some of which have been uncovered and restored. The most impressive feature of the nave is undoubtedly the dome, which soars high above, creating a sense of vastness and openness.

Hagia Sophia Nave

The nave of Hagia Sophia has undergone many changes throughout its history. When it was a church, it was filled with Christian iconography. After it was converted into a mosque, the mosaics were plastered over and Islamic calligraphy was added to the walls. When the Hagia Sophia became a museum, some of the mosaics were uncovered, but many remain hidden.

The Apses of Hagia Sophia are the semicircular recesses at the east end of the Hagia Sophia. They were originally used to house the altars of the church. The apses are decorated with mosaics of the Virgin Mary and other Christian saints.

Mosaic of Mary and Jesus behind white curtains at apse of Hagia Sophia, Mecca-facing Islamic Mihrab is below it

The four minarets of Hagia Sophia were added after it was converted into a mosque. They are tall, slender towers that are used by muezzins to call Muslims to prayer.

Hagia Sophia Minarets at north-west facing Atatürk Sk.

The Ayasofya is a beautiful and impressive building that has a long and rich history. It is a testament to the skill and creativity of Byzantine architects and engineers. The Ayasofya is also a reminder of the complex and intertwined history of Istanbul, a city that has been at the crossroads of civilizations for centuries.

Heading next towards the Topkapi Palace near Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque, we go through the Imperial Gate in the ancient outer wall on Alemdar Cd heading toward the Archeological Museums and Topkapi Palace complex.

Imperial Gate: main entrance to Topkapi Palace complex and Archeological Museums on Alemdar Caddesi

We walk past the Istanbul Archaeological Museums (İstanbul Arkeoloji Müzeleri).

Museum of the Ancient Orient, Istanbul Archaeological Museums

Istanbul Archaeology Museums is a three-part complex near Topkapi Palace. It boasts over a million historical artifacts across the Archaeological Museum, the Museum of the Ancient Orient with its Mesopotamian and Egyptian treasures and the Tiled Kiosk Museum for Islamic art, all housed in stunning Ottoman-era buildings.

There are random broken pieces of stone artifacts scattered on external grounds along the Archaeology Museums. We see remnants of bathtubs, Roman columns and even some stone coffins.

Stone artefacts scattered outside Istanbul Archaeology Museums (composite)

The Topkapi Palace in Istanbul was the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire for nearly 400 years and the main residence of its sultans. Also called Topkapı Sarayı, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular museums in Turkey.

The Topkapi Palace is a sprawling complex with four courtyards.

Topkapi Palace Model at Gate of Salutation

The First Courtyard of Topkapi Palace is home to the Hagia Irene Museum, a Byzantine church that was converted into an Ottoman armory. The first courtyard is actually to the southwest outside the Gate of Salutation which leads into the second courtyard of Topkapi Palace.

Hagia Irene By Ninara - Hagia Irene, Istanbul, CC BY 2.0, Link

Hagia Irene, also known as Aya İrini, boasts a unique history. This former Eastern Orthodox church holds the distinction of being the oldest church in Istanbul and the only Byzantine church to escape conversion into a mosque during Ottoman rule. Serving as an arsenal for centuries, Aya İrini has now found new life as a museum and concert hall. Its impressive acoustics and historical significance make it a worthwhile stop for any visitor exploring the rich tapestry of Istanbul.

Hagia Irene Museum Interior By Dosseman - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Beyond Hagia Irene, the Gate of Salutation, also known as Bab-üs Selam and the Middle Gate (Orta Kapı), serves as a grand entrance to the Topkapi Palace's Second Courtyard. This imposing structure stands out with its two pointed octagonal towers, their design hinting at Byzantine influences.

The Gate of Salutation: Gate with the two minarets to Topkapi Palace Second Courtyard

The Gate of Salutation's size and architecture inspire a sense of awe, marking the threshold to the heart of the Ottoman imperial center. Its very name, "Gate of Salutation," suggests a transformation: visitors leaving the bustling outer world behind to enter the more restricted and ceremonial quarters of the palace.

The Gate of Salutation

You can buy tickets to the Topkapi Palace online or at the ticket office at the entrance. There are also combination tickets that include entrance to the Harem and the Hagia Sophia.

Inside the Gate of Salutation

The Gate of Salutation boasts two distinct domes, each contributing to the grandeur of the entrance. Both domes are octagonal, meaning they have eight sides. This is a common shape used in Islamic architecture and adds a sense of balance and geometric harmony.

One of the two domes of the Gate of Salutation (composite)

Historical records don't provide specific details, but they were most likely constructed from stone and then covered with lead.

Another dome of the Gate of Salutation (composite)

Lead was a popular roofing material during Ottoman times, offering durability and a distinctive grayish hue.

The Gate of Salutation: View from inside the Second Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

Passing beneath the central arch of the Gate of Salutation, we notice intricate details - possibly religious inscriptions or sultanic monograms - adorning the stone. This thoughtful combination of defensive elements, grandeur and artistic embellishment creates a powerful first impression for visitors entering the palace's Second Courtyard.

The Gate of Salutation: Views from inside the Second Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The Second Courtyard of Topkapi Palace is the heart of the palace complex. It includes the Imperial Council Chamber, the Treasury and the kitchens.

Once the largest kitchens in the Ottoman Empire, the Topkapi Palace Kitchens (Topkapı Sarayı Mutfağı) were a hive of activity, feeding thousands within the palace walls.

Topkapi Palace Kitchens

Constructed in the 15th century and expanded under Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, the complex comprised two rows of buildings with a staggering 20 chimneys.

Topkapi Palace Kitchens

Inside, a small army of chefs prepared elaborate meals for the sultan, his court and the inhabitants of the harem. Today, the kitchens stand as a testament to Ottoman culinary prowess. Converted into a museum space, they showcase the tools, utensils and vast storerooms that fueled the palace for centuries.

Topkapi Palace Kitchens

The Third Courtyard of Topkapi Palace is the most private part of the palace. It includes the Harem, the sultan's private quarters and the Hall of Ceremonies.

The Chamber of Petitions at Topkapi Palace, also known as the Audience Chamber (Arz Odası), was a vital space for the Ottoman Sultan. Built in the 15th century, this square building resembles an Ottoman kiosk.

Chamber of Petitions

Imagine a colonnade of 22 columns supporting a large, overhanging roof. Originally decorated with a dazzling ultramarine blue ceiling dotted with golden stars, the chamber also boasted walls lined with beautiful blue, white and turquoise tiles. Rich carpets and plush pillows added to the luxurious ambiance. This wasn't just for show - the Chamber of Petitions served as the point of contact between the Sultan and his state administration. Here, he would receive petitions from his subjects, meet with foreign dignitaries and conduct official audiences. Though renovated in the 18th century, the Chamber of Petitions offers a glimpse into the heart of Ottoman governance and the Sultan's role as both ruler and symbol of the empire's power.

Tucked away in the Topkapi Palace's Third Courtyard, the Library of Sultan Ahmed III (III. Ahmed Kütüphanesi, also known as the Enderûn Library) stands as a testament to the Sultan's love of learning and cultural pursuits. Built in the early 18th century, it reflects the grandeur of the Tulip Era, a period marked by artistic flourish and a turn towards Western influences. There is a remarkably life-like mannequin studying the Holy Quran inside the library today.

Library of Sultan Ahmed III

The library itself is a neoclassical masterpiece, featuring a symmetrical facade with a portico and overhanging eaves. Inside, a large chamber with a dome ceiling once housed a vast collection of manuscripts, calligraphy works and historical texts, meticulously arranged on ornately carved wooden shelves.

Library of Sultan Ahmed III

Though the books now reside elsewhere, the library remains a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture and a reminder of Sultan Ahmed III's role as a patron of knowledge and the arts.

A beautiful fountain adjacent to Library of Sultan Ahmed III

The Sultan's Private Chamber (Has Oda, also known as Özel Oda) at Topkapi Palace holds a unique and significant place within the complex. It wasn't just the private living quarters for the Ottoman Sultans, but also housed a revered space: the Chamber of the Sacred Relics (Mukaddes Emanetler Dairesi, also known as Kutsal Emanetler Odası).

Private Chamber and Chamber of the Holy Relics

Imagine a grand entrance with an arched doorway adorned with calligraphy by Sultan Ahmed III. Stepping inside, we find ourselves in the Privy Chamber (Süslü Salon), a luxurious space where Sultans relaxed and made crucial decisions. But nestled within this chamber lies a smaller, highly sacred room: the Chamber of the Holy Relics. This revered space served as the custodian of a vast collection of religious artifacts believed to be associated with the Prophet Muhammad, early Islamic figures and even biblical characters.

Private Chamber and Chamber of the Sacred Relics

Imagine treasures like the Prophet's Mantle (Hirka-i Saadet), a revered item kept in a special golden chest. Other sacred objects like swords, a staff, a footprint and even a letter attributed to the Prophet are on display.

Privy Chamber and Chamber of the Sacred Relics

The atmosphere in this chamber is of reverence and hushed tones. Strict protocols likely govern access and the presence of these holy relics underscore the Ottoman Sultans' claim as Caliphs, the protectors of the Islamic faith.

A walkway inside Topkapi Palace

The Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace wasn't just some Sultan's pleasure den. It was a vast, sprawling complex within the palace itself, containing over 300 rooms. The harem served as the private quarters for the Ottoman Sultan, his family and his concubines. This included the Sultan's mother, wives, children and female servants.

Imperial Harem

The Black Eunuchs were a vital but controversial part of the Topkapi Palace's inner workings. Ottomans preferred black eunuchs, often of Abyssinian (Ethiopian) origin, acquired through trade or tribute from their vast empire. Young boys, likely pre-teens, were taken from Africa and castrated. This was a barbaric practice with a high mortality rate, making the surviving eunuchs valuable.

Imperial Harem

The primary function of the Black eunuchs was to guard the harem complex. They controlled entry and exit, ensuring the Sultan's family remained secluded. This role demanded absolute loyalty and trustworthiness.

Imperial Harem

Black eunuchs also held various administrative positions within the harem and the palace itself. Some rose to positions of considerable power, like the Kızlar Ağası, or "Chief Black Eunuch," who oversaw the entire harem staff . Those destined for high positions received extensive training in palace protocol, religion, languages and even calligraphy.

Imperial Harem

The practice of castration was brutal and violated human rights. The Chief Black Eunuch sometimes wielded immense political influence, which could be destabilizing for the court. Overall, the Black Eunuchs were a complex group. They were essential for the harem's operation yet endured a terrible fate. Their story offers a window into the sometimes harsh realities of Ottoman court life.

Paved Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs

Built around the 16th century, the Sultan's Harem complex was a labyrinth of beautifully tiled chambers and courtyards with refreshing fountains and gardens. Over time, different Sultans added their own touches, resulting in a fascinating mix of Ottoman, European and Islamic architecture and decor.

Paved Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs

The harem was massive. Estimates suggest it housed over 1,000 people, including women, children, eunuchs and servants. There were even special areas like the Queen Mother's quarters, with a throne room, bath and kitchens and a hospital wing.

Harem Ağaları Hamamı Topkapı Sarayı: a bathroom inside the Hammam (bathhouse)

Today, the Topkapi Palace harem offers a glimpse into the private lives of Ottoman rulers and their families. It's a historically significant part of the palace complex, showcasing architectural styles and providing insight into Ottoman court life. Several sections are open to the public for tours.

The Queen's Apartment in Topkapi Palace, also known as the Valide Sultan's Apartment (Apartment of Sultan's Mother), is one of the most luxurious and beautifully adorned sections within the palace's Harem. This suite was reserved for the Valide Sultan, the mother of the reigning sultan, who wielded significant influence and power within the Ottoman court.

The Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother were renovated circa 1744 by Mahmud I and incorporate Baroque elements.

A bathroom of Queen's Apartment (composite)

Unfortunately there is major renovation work in progress and we could only explore the bathroom and a small part of the main room.

Queen's Apartment

The apartment's design and decor reflect the status and importance of its occupant. The rooms are decorated with stunning Iznik tiles, showcasing intricate floral and geometric patterns in vibrant blues, greens and reds. These tiles cover the walls from floor to ceiling, creating an atmosphere of opulence and elegance.

Queen's Apartment

The ceilings are equally impressive, featuring detailed woodwork and gold gilding that enhance the grandeur of the space. Large, ornate windows allow natural light to flood the rooms, highlighting the beauty of the interior and offering views of the palace gardens and the Bosphorus.

Baroque architecture in Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother

The apartment includes a series of interconnected rooms, each serving a specific function, from private living quarters to reception areas for guests and dignitaries. The furnishings are equally luxurious, with richly upholstered divans, intricate carpets and exquisite decorative items that reflect the high status of the Valide Sultan.

The Chamber of Murad III, also known as the Privy Chamber of Murad III, is a stunning and historically significant room within the Topkapi Palace. Built in 1578 during the reign of Sultan Murad III, the chamber is attributed to the renowned Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan. This makes it one of the oldest surviving structures in the harem complex. The chamber is a domed space, showcasing the architectural mastery of Sinan.

The Chamber of Murad III served as a private space for the Sultan. It likely functioned as a reception area, a place for meetings or even a work area. The ornately decorated space offered a visually impressive setting for the Sultan to conduct his business. The most striking feature is the lavish decoration. The walls are adorned with exquisite 16th-century İznik tiles, a hallmark of Ottoman art. These colorful tiles depict floral patterns, geometric designs and calligraphic inscriptions.

The Imperial Hall, also known as the Throne Room, is one of the most opulent and significant spaces within the Topkapi palace complex. This grand hall was the principal venue for ceremonial functions and official gatherings during the Ottoman Empire, symbolizing the power and grandeur of the sultans.

Imperial Hall (Imperial Throne Room)

From the visitors' information board: "Centrally located between the Privy Chamber of Sultan Murad III and hammams, the Imperial Hall was built after 1585 by Chief Architect Davud Agha and underwent many changes due to fires and renovation works. It was used as sultan's ceremonial and reception hall. Here, weddings and birth ceremonies of the dynasty were held and sultans received the household of the Harem for enthronement and bairam ceremonies. Crowned by the largest dome in Topkapı Palace, the Imperial Hall houses the baldachin of the sultan's throne, as well as the gallery where female members of the Harem, most notably Sultan's Mother used to sit. The upper floor of the gallery was used by musician concubines (jariya). The room on the left side of the main entrance was walled off from the main hall at a later date and was probably used as a pantry. The inscriptions on the belt of Iznik tiles date after the fire of 1665; the blue and white Dutch (Delft) tiles and rococo decorations date from the reign of Sultan Osman III, i.e. the mid 18th century. The hand-drawn decorations on the dome, arch and pendentives belong to the date of the original construction. The wooden arches in the portico and the windows are in the Baroque style. The repair works conducted during the period of Sultan Osman III and praises to the Sultan are written on the inscriptions above the door and the windows. The inscription on the cartouche below the windows probably date from the same period, also reads from 257th to 263rd verses of the Surah al-Baqarah."

Imperial Hall / Imperial Throne Room (composite)

Upon entering the Imperial Hall, visitors are immediately struck by its majestic scale and lavish decoration. The hall is adorned with intricate Iznik tiles, rich gilding and elaborate calligraphy, reflecting the exquisite craftsmanship of the Ottoman artisans. The high, domed ceiling, resplendent with gold and vibrant colors, enhances the room's sense of grandeur and magnificence.

Imperial Hall / Throne Room

In the center of the hall stands the sultan’s throne, an exquisite piece of furniture crafted from precious materials and decorated with jewels and fine embroidery. The throne was the focal point during audiences with foreign dignitaries, state ceremonies and important state functions. Surrounding the throne are low, cushioned seating areas where members of the imperial court and high-ranking officials would sit.

Imperial Hall / Throne Room (composite)

Large windows with stained glass offer glimpses of the palace gardens and the Bosporus beyond, filling the room with natural light and connecting the splendor of the interior with the beauty of the surrounding landscape. The hall's walls are lined with ornamental mirrors and delicate latticework, adding to the sense of opulence and refinement.

Throne Room - Imperial Hall

Adjacent to the Imperial Hall is one of the Prayer Rooms in the Harem of Topkapı Palace. The Topkapi Palace, though primarily built in the Ottoman architectural style, does showcase some beautiful examples of Baroque and Rococo influences incorporated into the design by later sultans. The Mihrab of the prayer room in the Harem of Topkapı Palace, added in Osman III's restoration (1754–1757), is a great example.

Mosque in Harem of Topkapı Palace

The Fourth Courtyard of Topkapi Palace is home to the gardens and pavilions of the palace. It offers stunning views of the Bosporus Strait from an awesome cafe. The vantage point offers a wide panoramic vista of the Bosphorus Strait allowing us to see the waterway winding its way between Europe and Asia.

View of Bosporus from Fourth Courtyard of Topkapi Palace

The Bosphorus itself is a sight to behold, its waters shimmering in the sunlight. We spot ferries, container ships and pleasure boats traversing the strait. Landmarks like the Hagia Sophia or the Blue Mosque on the other side of the Golden Horn can be seen in the distance as well.

The breathtaking view of the Bosporus from the fourth courtyard of Topkapi Palace captures the essence of Istanbul's unique location where continents meet and history unfolds. The view, however, is not completely unobstructed. There are palace buildings and trees framing the vista.

We walk back to Sultan Ahmet Park (Sultanahmet Meydanı) from Topkapi Palace. This square was originally the Hippodrome of Constantinople where the Obelisk of Theodosius still stands today. The Obelisk of Theodosius is one of the most important surviving monuments of the Roman Empire in Constantinople. It is a testament to the power and prestige of the Roman Empire, as well as to the cultural exchange between Rome and Egypt.

Obelisk of Theodosius at Sultanahmet Meydanı

The Obelisk of Theodosius is an ancient Egyptian obelisk that was originally erected during the 18th dynasty of Egypt by Pharaoh Thutmose III (1479–1425 BC). It was re-erected in the Hippodrome of Constantinople (Sultanahmet Meydanı) by the Roman emperor Theodosius I in the 4th century AD. The obelisk is made of red granite from Aswan (see "Egypt: Western Desert to Red Sea and Alexandria to Abu Simbel") and was originally 30 meters tall. The lower part was damaged in antiquity, probably during its transport or re-erection and so the obelisk is today only 18.54 meters (or 19.6 meters) high, or 25.6 meters if the base is included.

Obelisk of Theodosius at Sultanahmet Meydanı

Between the four corners of the obelisk and the pedestal are four bronze cubes, used in its transportation and re-erection. Each of its four faces has a single central column of inscription, celebrating Thutmose III's victory over the Mitanni which took place on the banks of the Euphrates in about 1450 BC.

We walk east past the Blue Mosque to Ahırkapı İskelesi cruise terminal on the Bosporus to embark on our cruise ship for a Sunset Cruise on the Bosphorus, a magical experience that offers a perfect blend of natural beauty and historical grandeur creating unforgettable memories. As the boat gently glides along the strait, the sun begins its descent, casting a warm golden hue over the iconic skyline of Istanbul. The journey typically begins with the bustling harbor in view, as our boat departs from the European side of the city. As we cruise along the Bosporus, the soothing sound of the water and the cool breeze provide a refreshing escape from the urban hustle. The Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque (Ayasofya) looms across the shoreline looking across the Bosphorus Strait in its unique timeless way.

Hagia Sophia view from Bosporus Strait

Nearby, the Topkapi Palace, once the heart of the Ottoman Empire, stands proudly against the backdrop of the glowing sky.

Topkapi Palace view from Bosphorus Strait

As we sail further away from the harbor at Blue Mosque and Ayasofya, the Beyazıt Tower and the Rustem Pasha Mosque catch our attention.

Beyazıt Tower and Rustem Pasha Mosque

Also known as the Seraskier Tower, Beyazıt Tower was originally built as a fire-watch tower in the 18th century. Currently, it serves multiple purposes as an observation point for weather forecasting and maritime navigation weather signalling to ships on the Golden Horn at night using colored lights - blue for clear skies, green for rain and red for snow. The Beyazıt Tower stands tall in the courtyard of Istanbul University's main campus (formerly the Ottoman Ministry of War), in Beyazıt Square, a central location in Istanbul. Beyazıt Tower was built in 1828 by Sultan Mahmud II, replacing earlier wooden fire towers destroyed by fire. It was designed by the architect Senekerim Balyan and has witnessed historical events like the 1868 rebellion. Beyazıt Tower stands at an impressive height of 85 meters (279 feet) and is made of stone, a more fire-resistant material compared to its predecessors. It is not currently open to the public for regular visits and special permission might be required for access in some cases. The tower was crucial for fire safety during the Ottoman era. The colored lights atop the tower are a unique feature, providing a visual weather forecast for the city and ships on Bosporus Strait. Its location within the university campus adds to the historical significance of the area.

The Rüstem Pasha Mosque (Rüstem Paşa Camii) is a hidden gem in Istanbul, known for its stunning tilework and a more intimate atmosphere compared to other grand mosques. Designed by the renowned Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan for Rüstem Pasha, the Grand Vizier (equivalent to a Prime Minister) of the Ottoman Empire under Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent, it was completed in around 1563, showcasing classical Ottoman architecture with a central dome, four minarets and a serene courtyard. (Some consider Rüstem Pasha a loathsome character despite his architectural patronage!)

The mosque's most striking feature is its extensive use of exquisite İznik tiles, both on the exterior and the interior. These vibrantly colored tiles feature intricate floral and geometric patterns, creating a visually stunning and luxurious experience. Unlike other Sinan mosques that focus on grandeur, Rüstem Pasha Mosque emphasizes intricate details and ornamentation, particularly the extensive tilework. Some believe it might have served as a prototype for Sinan's later masterpiece, the Selimiye Mosque in Edirne. The Rüstem Pasha Mosque is relatively small compared to other major mosques in Istanbul, offering a more intimate and peaceful atmosphere for prayer or reflection. Situated in the Tahtakale neighborhood, close to the Spice Bazaar in Istanbul's Fatih district, one might have to climb a few steps to reach the entrance but it's easily accessible. The abundance of Iznik tiles was a way for Rüstem Pasha to showcase his wealth and high status, as these tiles were highly prized and expensive at the time.

We catch a great view of the Yeni Cami Mosque, also known as the New Mosque or the Valide Sultan Mosque. This historic mosque is located in the Eminönü district of Istanbul, Türkiye. Construction of the Yeni Cami Mosque began in 1597 by Safiye Sultan, the wife of Sultan Murad III, but due to various reasons including financial difficulties and a devastating fire, it wasn't until 1665 that the mosque was finally completed under the patronage of Sultan Mehmed IV's mother, Turhan Sultan. The Yeni Cami Mosque features a main dome reaching 36 meters (118 feet) in height, symbolizing the age of Prophet Muhammad at the time of his first revelation. The four minarets, each 66 meters (217 feet) tall, symbolize the four caliphs of Islam. The mosque complex includes a fountain, a hospice and a primary school.

Yeni Cami Mosque (New Mosque, Valide Sultan Mosque)

The Yeni Cami mosque's long and complex history reflects the political and economic climate of the Ottoman Empire during the late 16th and mid-17th centuries. It is a prime example of classical Ottoman architecture, featuring a central dome, four minarets and a spacious courtyard. The mosque's interior is richly decorated with Iznik tiles, calligraphy and stained glass windows. It is known for its impressive architecture, stunning views of the Golden Horn and its role as a place of worship and cultural center for the local community. It is nicknamed "The Mosque of the Birds" by locals due to the large flocks of pigeons that frequent its courtyard. We will return to Yeni Cami later on foot when we explore the Rüstem Paşa and Eminönü harbor area heading into the Spice Bazaar (Egyptian bazaar) and Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı Bazaar beyond it.

We see the Çamlıca Tower standing tall across the water. Also referred to as Küçük Çamlıca TV Radio Tower, this telecommunication tower boasts observation decks and restaurants. It's situated on Little Çamlıca Hill in Istanbul's Üsküdar district, Turkey. Standing at a staggering 369 meters (1,211 feet) tall, Çamlıca Tower is the highest structure in Istanbul. With an observation deck offering 360-degree panoramic views of the city, it's a popular tourist destination. The tower also features restaurants and cafes where visitors can relax and take in the breathtaking scenery.

Çamlıca Tower: Küçük Çamlıca TV Radio Tower

Construction of the Çamlıca Tower began in 2016 and was completed in September 2020. The tower's design is unique, with a reinforced concrete structure that rises 49 floors. Topped with a 168-meter-tall steel antenna, the tower reaches an impressive height. The tower serves as a broadcasting center for radio and television transmissions.

The Çamlıca Mosque captivates our gaze, its massive dome and minarets bathed in the soft light of the setting sun. The Çamlıca Mosque is the largest mosque in Türkiye. It is a landmark complex for Islamic worship that was completed and opened on March 7, 2019. The mosque stands astride Çamlıca Hill in the Üsküdar district of Istanbul and is visible from much of the center of the city. The complex incorporates an art gallery, library and conference hall. It can hold up to 63,000 worshippers at a time (and can accommodate up to 100,000 people in case of an earthquake).

Çamlıca Mosque

The Çamlıca Mosque was designed by two female architects, Bahar Mızrak and Hayriye Gül Totu and cost around TL 150 million ($66.5 million) to build. The length of the four mosque minarets span 107.1 meters, a measurement that refers to the Battle of Manzikert (1071) fought by the Seljuk and Byzantine Empires. The 72-meter-high main dome symbolizes the 72 nations residing in Istanbul, Turkey. The dome spanning 34 meters represents the city of Istanbul (34 is the city's car plate number). The main dome is 3.12 meters wide, 7.77 meters high and weighs 4.5 tons. The mosque's gates are some of the largest inside a place of worship in the world - the main gate is 5 meters long, 6.5 meters high and weighs 6 tons. The finial of the Çamlıca Mosque - the largest in the world - was colored using nanotechnology.

Bosphorus Strait view from Sunset Cruise

We sail under the imposing 15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü (15 July Martyrs' Bridge), formerly known simply as the Boğaziçi Köprüsü (Bosporus Bridge), getting an awesome view of its underside. This suspension bridge spanning the Bosphorus Strait in Istanbul, Türkiye is the first of the three bridges that connect the European and Asian sides of the city.

15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü (Boğaziçi Köprüsü)

The 15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü bridge received its current name on July 31, 2016, in honor of the martyrs who died during the 2016 Turkish coup d'état attempt. It is the longest suspension bridge in Europe with a total length of 1,560 meters (5,118 feet). It has a main span of 1,074 meters (3,524 feet), which was the longest suspension bridge span in the world when it was completed in 1973.

15 July Martyrs' Bridge (Bosphorus Bridge)

The 15 July Martyrs' Bridge has a six-lane motorway on each side, as well as a footpath for pedestrians. It is a vital transportation link and carries an average of 200,000 vehicles per day. It is a popular tourist destination and offers stunning views of the Bosporus Strait.

15 Temmuz Şehitler Köprüsü (Boğaziçi Köprüsü)

Along the shorelines, opulent Ottoman mansions, known as "yali," line the water's edge, their reflections shimmering in the Bosphorus. The silhouette of the Maiden's Tower, a historic lighthouse on a small islet, becomes particularly striking at sunset. This romantic landmark, steeped in legend, adds a touch of mystery and allure to the journey. 

We see the Hamid-i Evvel Camii Mosque on the shore of the Bosporus. The Hamid-i Evvel Camii, also known as the Beylerbeyi Mosque, is an 18th-century Ottoman-Baroque style mosque located in the Beylerbeyi district of Istanbul, Turkey. It is considered one of the most beautiful mosques in the city and is a popular tourist destination. The mosque has a unique feature in that its minarets are not symmetrical. It was also damaged in a fire in 1983, but it was restored and reopened in 1985.

Hamid-i Evvel Camii Mosque (Beylerbeyi Mosque)

The Hamid-i Evvel mosque was commissioned by Sultan Abdul Hamid I in 1778 and was completed in 1782. It was designed by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan and is considered to be one of his masterpieces. The mosque is built on a hilltop overlooking the Bosporus Strait and has a commanding view of the city. The Hamid-i Evvel Camii is a rectangular building with a central dome and four minarets. The exterior of the mosque is decorated with intricate tilework and calligraphy. The interior of the mosque is also richly decorated, with marble columns, stained glass windows and a carved wooden mihrab (prayer niche). The mosque is a popular place of worship for Muslims in Istanbul and is also open to visitors. Visitors can enter the mosque free of charge and admire its architecture and decoration.

On the Asian side of Istanbul's Bosphorus Strait, we spot the Kuleli Military High School, once a prestigious institution in Türkiye that is no longer operational. Established in 1845, Kuleli Military High School held the distinction of being the oldest military high school in Turkey. It is located in Çengelköy, Istanbul, on the Asian shore of the Bosporus Strait. The imposing building served as a training ground for future military leaders for over 170 years. During the Crimean War, the building functioned as a military hospital and was supervised by Florence Nightingale - the Lady with the Lamp.

Kuleli Military High School

The school building itself was a landmark, known for its two "witch hat" towers, adding to the historical and visual significance of the location. In July 2016, following a failed coup d'état attempt in Türkiye, the Kuleli Military High School, along with all other military high schools in the country, was closed down.

The Consulate General of the Arab Republic of Egypt in Istanbul is housed in a beautiful historical building known as the Emine Valide Paşa Mansion which is a beautiful example of Ottoman architecture with Art Nouveau influences.

The Emine Valide Paşa Mansion, also known by various names including Hıdiv Sarayı (Khedive's Palace), Emine Valide Paşa Sahilsarayı (Emine Valide Paşa Seaside Palace), Hıdiv İsmail Paşa Yalısı (Khedive Ismail Pasha Mansion), Valide Paşa Yalısı (Valide Pasha Mansion) and Mısır Konsolosluğu Sahilsarayı (Egyptian Consulate Seaside Palace), is a historic waterfront mansion with a rich history dating back to 1781 when it was first constructed. It has undergone several renovations and ownership changes throughout the years.

Egyptian Consulate (Emine Valide Paşa Mansion)

The Emine Valide Paşa Mansion was initially built in 1781 by Sheikh ul-Islam Dürrizade Abdullah Efendi. Sultan II. Abdülhamit purchased the mansion and gifted it to Emine Sultan, the mother of Khedive Abbas Hilmi Pasha of Egypt. The mansion became the property of the Egyptian government and served as the Egyptian Consulate General in Istanbul. The mansion is not open to the public for tours, as it is currently in use by the Egyptian Consulate.

Bosphorus Strait view from Sunset Cruise

Throughout the cruise, the vibrant colors of the sunset paint the sky in hues of orange, pink and purple, creating a stunning contrast with the deep blue of the Bosporus waters. The city's minarets and domes create an intricate skyline, enhanced by the fading light.

Istanbul views from Bosphorus Strait Sunset Cruise

The sunset cruise on the Bosporus is a serene and picturesque way to experience the city's unique charm, leaving us with a sense of awe and tranquility as we disembark.

Divan Yolu Caddesi outside Sultanahmet Meydanı at sunset

As night falls, the boat returns to the harbor next to the Blue Mosque and the city lights begin to sparkle, offering a different, equally captivating perspective of Istanbul.

Blue Mosque at Sunset

In the morning, after another fabulous breakfast at the top floor of our hotel with a gorgeous view of the Bosphorus, we board the tram to our first destination of the day: Hafiz Mustafa, world-famous sellers of Turkish Delight, baklava, puddings, tea and a wide assortment of traditional sweets.

Hafiz Mustafa 1864

The renowned Turkish confectionery store has a rich history dating back to 1864. Founded in 1864 by Hadji İsmail Hakkı Bey in Istanbul, they originally started by producing rock candy. Hafiz Mustafa have since won 12 gold medals in confectionery competitions across Europe between 1926 and 1938. 

Hafiz Mustafa 1864

Currently run by the Ongular family since 2007, Hafiz Mustafa have over a dozen branches in Turkey and one branch internationally at the Mall of Dubai in Dubai, UAE. We visit their shop at Hoca Paşa, Fatih for purchasing some of their famous sweets.

We proceed towards the main headquarters of the Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (İstanbul Ticaret Odası, ITO in short) and Eminönü tram stop.

Istanbul Chamber of Commerce (İstanbul Ticaret Odası / ITO)

The Istanbul Chamber of Commerce is a prominent institution in Türkiye, established in 1882 to promote and regulate commercial activities in Istanbul. It plays a crucial role in supporting businesses, fostering economic growth and advocating for the interests of the business community.

Eminönü Tram Stop

The shoreline of the Golden Horn is right behind the tram stop. The Eminönü / Hazerfen Ahmet Çelebi İskelesi ferry terminal operates ferries from here to Beşiktaş. There are Bosporus Strait cruises that operate from here as well.

We stroll around a bit more around the Yeni Cami Mosque and Turkey İş Bank Museum. The İşbank Museum Istanbul was formerly the Istanbul branch office of İşbank and was converted into a museum in 2007. The building itself has an interesting history, having been constructed in 1892 as the main post office.

Yeni Cami Mosque and Türkiye İşbank Museum Istanbul

As mentioned earlier, the Yeni Cami mosque (also known as the "Mosque of the Birds", New Mosque and the Mosque of the Valide Sultan) is famous for its large population of pigeons. These pigeons have become somewhat of a symbol of the mosque and their presence adds to the lively atmosphere of the area. Visitors often flock to the mosque to feed the pigeons, creating a unique and memorable experience.

The pigeons thrive at Yeni Cami for good reason. The area around the mosque is full of potential food sources for pigeons, such as crumbs from street vendors, spilled seeds from bird feeders and scraps discarded by visitors. The mosque's architecture provides numerous nooks and crannies for pigeons to roost and nest, offering them protection from predators and the elements. The plentiful food and shelter at Yeni Cami create ideal conditions for pigeons to breed and raise their young. This helps to sustain the large population.

Pigeons at Yeni Cami Mosque

Some cultures associate pigeons with peace and purity. In Islam, pigeons are revered for their role in carrying messages between prophets. While not necessarily a core religious belief, this association with peace may contribute to a tolerance for the pigeons presence at Yeni Cami. It's important to note that there are also some downsides to having a large pigeon population around the mosque. Pigeon droppings can be a nuisance and they can also carry diseases. The mosque authorities take steps to manage the pigeon population, such as cleaning the mosque grounds regularly.

The İşbank Museum chronicles the history of İşbank, which is intertwined with the economic development of Turkey. The exhibits showcase historical documents, bank equipment, advertisements, photographs and a recreation of the bank's vault and safe deposit boxes.

We then head to our next destination of the Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) and its world-famous Spice Bazaar inside. Just before the entrance to the Spice Bazaar, we encounter a part of the renowned Eminönü Flower Market.

Eminönü Flower Market at Spice Bazaar / Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)

This dedicated flower market is a go-to place for vibrant displays of fresh cut flowers, potted plants and gardening supplies like seeds, bulbs and fertilizers.

Eminönü Flower Market at Spice Bazaar / Egyptian Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı)

The Spice Bazaar (also known as the Egyptian Bazaar or Mısır Çarşısı in Turkish) in Istanbul's Fatih district is a feast for the senses. As we approach the bazaar, the air is thick with the enticing aromas of spices - cinnamon, cloves, cumin and who knows how many more exotic flavors. The smell is a delightful introduction to the vibrant world within. We also realize the mundane ancient outside walls of the Spice Bazaar are a complete contrast with the sensory celebration that goes on inside.

Entrance to Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar / Mısır Çarşısı)

Built in 1664, the Spice Bazaar is steeped in history. The high vaulted ceilings with intricate designs add to the unique atmosphere. Inside the labyrinthine covered market, stalls overflow with a rainbow of spices displayed in conical mounds or heaped in large sacks. We also find mountains of colorful dried fruits, nuts and Turkish delights in every shade imaginable.

Spice Bazaar

Istanbul's Spice Bazaar is a feast for the eyes and the Palate. The shops offer amazing Turkish tea with herbs and spices to visitors and offer samples of their wares, allowing us to taste the exotic spices and indulge in pieces of sweet Turkish Delight.

Free traditional Turkish tea and Turkish Delight offered to us at Spice Bazaar

The vendors are very engaging. Though haggling is a traditional part of the shopping experience in the bazaar, the sellers are friendly and welcoming, happy to chat and answer questions about their products and talk about everything else including geopolitical and economic situation of the city, the country and the world.

Spice Bazaar

While spices are the main attraction, the spice bazaar actually offers a wider variety of goods. Stalls overflow with beautiful Turkish rugs, hand-painted ceramics, gleaming silver jewelry and an assortment of souvenirs. Teas, coffees, traditional Turkish sweets like baklava and even locally-produced soaps and natural remedies are also widely available for purchase in the shops here.

Jewelry, Silverware, Ceramics, Textiles, Rugs and Souvenirs for sale at Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is a hive of activity. Locals and tourists mingle, browsing the stalls, negotiating prices and soaking up the lively atmosphere. The Spice Bazaar is also a photographer's paradise. The vibrant colors, textures and smiling faces create a photographer's dream.

Happy customer and vendor at a shop in Spice Bazaar

The Spice Bazaar is an immersive experience that captures the essence of Istanbul's bustling markets. It's a place to tantalize your taste buds, explore unique products and soak up the vibrant atmosphere of one of Istanbul's most historic shopping destinations.

We exit the Spice Bazaar / Egyptian Bazaar and walk into the adjacent sprawling Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı, another bazaar offering a contrasting experience to the more tourist-oriented Spice Bazaar. A local favorite, Mahmutpaşa Bazaar caters primarily to local residents, offering everyday essentials at reasonable prices. Here, we don't find as many vendors aggressively trying to attract tourists.

Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı

While there might be a few spice shops on the periphery, Mahmutpaşa is renowned for its vast selection of clothing and textiles. Stalls overflow with everything from everyday wear to formal attire, fabrics by the meter and a treasure trove of haberdashery items like buttons, zippers and thread.

Similar to the Spice Bazaar, Mahmutpaşa has a a labyrinthine layout forming a maze of narrow passageways lined with hundreds of shops. Exploring can be fun, but it's easy to get lost. Having a sense of direction or a good landmark to reference can be helpful.

Mahmutpaşa Bazaar

Like most places in Istanbul, the Mahmutpaşa Bazaar is a bargain hunter's paradise. Haggling is expected at Mahmutpaşa and the prices tend to be lower compared to tourist-heavy areas. If one is comfortable bargaining, one can find great deals on clothing, fabrics and other goods.

Mahmutpaşa's atmosphere is lively. The place bustles with activity with locals shopping for their families and shopkeepers calling out to customers. The atmosphere is more utilitarian than the theatrical charm of the Spice Bazaar.

Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı

However, food options are limited here. While there are a few vendors selling snacks or street food, Mahmutpaşa doesn't have a strong focus on food.

Mahmutpaşa Bazaar

Mahmutpaşa is especially attractive for offering a glimpse into local life. The bazaar and the people offer a chance to experience a more authentic side of Istanbul's shopping scene. It's a great place to find everyday items and witness the daily lives of Istanbul's residents.

Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı

While clothing dominates, we find stalls selling household goods, electronics, toys and some souvenir items at Mahmutpaşa. The bazaar is great for a relaxed shopping experience avoiding crowds of tourists.

Mahmutpaşa Bazaar

Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı Bazaar is best enjoyed with a mental preparation to navigate the maze-like layout and knowledge of some basic Turkish for bargaining. In summary, Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı provides a window into the world of Istanbul's local shopping scene. It's a great place to find good deals on clothing and textiles, experience the daily lives of locals and get a taste of a more traditional Istanbul market.

Tourist Map of Grand Bazaar of Istanbul

Leaving the Mahmutpaşa Çarşısı Bazaar, we get back to the Eminönü tram stop and take the tram to the Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı stop a few steps from our hotel. But the hotel is not our destination. We are headed to the mother of all bazaars in the world - the legendary Grand Bazaar of Istanbul.

Sipahi Cd. to Gate 5 entrance to Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı in Turkish, meaning "Covered Market") in Istanbul is a historical shopping paradise. It is a behemoth in the world of shopping. We enter the Grand Bazaar via Gate 5 on Sipahi Cd. on the bazaar's south side (Beyazıt, Sipahi Caddesi, 34126 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye). This gate is just up from the Beyazıt-Kapalıçarşı tram stop.

Gate 5 (Sipahi Caddesi) entrance to Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar boasts a rich history dating back to 1461. Sultan Mehmed the Conqueror ordered its construction to generate revenue for the Hagia Sophia Mosque. The market grew throughout the 16th century under Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent. Over the centuries, it has undergone repairs and expansions after earthquakes and fires. During the Ottoman period, the Grand Bazaar served as a crucial stock exchange center, facilitating trade for a vast Ottoman Empire.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

Excellent herbal spice-flavored tea (chai) is offered across the Arabic world and the Persian world, including in Türkiye and especially in the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul. In the shops of the Grand Bazaar the tea we are offered is Turkish çay (pronounced chai). Turkish Chai is a strong, black tea typically brewed from loose leaf black tea from the Black Sea region. The tea is brewed in a double teapot, with the top pot holding the concentrated brew and the bottom pot filled with hot water. This allows for a strong, hot cup of tea to be served by pouring some concentrated tea into a small, tulip-shaped glass and topping it with hot water from the lower pot. Traditionally, Turkish tea is heavily sweetened with sugar cubes. However, you can always request it "az şekerli" (a little sugar) or "şekersiz" (no sugar) depending on your preference.

Complementary Turkish chai, coffee and water at a shop in Grand Bazaar

Turkish tea is a symbol of hospitality in Turkey, as chai is across vast swaths of the world. Shopkeepers often offer tea to customers as a gesture of welcome, creating a friendly and relaxed shopping experience. We were not surprised on being offered refills throughout our visit. It's considered polite to accept at least one cup, but you don't have to feel obligated to have multiple servings. A gentle head shake or a simple "teşekkür ederim" (thank you) is enough to decline politely.

While less common, we encountered some shops offering apple tea, a popular herbal tea in Türkiye.

The tea offered in shops is usually complimentary, but it's a nice gesture to leave a small tip if you enjoyed the hospitality.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

The Grand Bazaar covers an impressive 30.7 hectares (76 acres) with over 61 covered streets. It is estimated to house over 4,000 shops.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

The Grand Bazaar is a major tourist attraction, attracting a staggering number of visitors. Estimates range from 250,000 to 400,000 visitors daily, making it one of the world's most-visited historical places.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

With its own security force, post office, banks, money changers, health center and mosques, the Grand Bazaar functions almost like a small city within Istanbul.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

The First Shopping Mall? The Grand Bazaar's structure and organization are considered by some as a precursor to modern shopping malls, offering a centralized location for diverse goods.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

The shops within the Grand Bazaar are traditionally grouped by type. Strolling through the bazaar, we find dedicated areas for carpets, jewelry, spices, leather goods and more.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

Haggling is Expected. Bargaining is an integral part of the shopping experience at the Grand Bazaar. We were prepared to test our negotiation skills and have some fun with the vendors!

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

Beyond shopping, the Grand Bazaar offers a fascinating glimpse into Turkish culture and traditional craftsmanship. We witness the creation of beautiful carpets, intricate jewelry and other handcrafted goods.

Grand Bazaar, Istanbul (Kapalıçarşı)

The Grand Bazaar has even made its way onto the silver screen! The iconic market was featured in a spectacular motorcycle chase scene in the James Bond film "Skyfall." In summary, the Grand Bazaar is a captivating blend of history, commerce and culture. It's a place where we can lose ourselves in a maze of shops, find unique treasures and experience the vibrant energy of Istanbul.

We have previously sailed on the Bosphorus Sunset Cruise but not set foot on the Asian side of Istanbul. From the Grand Bazaar, we head back to Eminönü port's Sirkeci-Harem ferry terminal in Hoca Paşa to embark on one of the most interesting ferry trips in the world - a really quick intercontinental round-trip between the continents of Europe and Asia! We arrive at the bustling Eminönü port on the European side. Seagulls cry overhead and the air thrums with the energy of vendors hawking snacks and the rhythmic calls of ferry attendants. The vibrant facades of historical buildings provide a picturesque backdrop.

Europe to Asia Bosporus Ferry at Eminönü port, Istanbul

We step onto the spacious ferry, a microcosm of Istanbul itself. Locals chat animatedly, families spread out picnics and tourists snap photos with excitement. The call to prayer from a nearby mosque mingles with the gentle thrum of the ferry's engines.

Bosphorus Ferry: Leaving Europe for Asia at Istanbul

As the ferry departs, the iconic skyline of Istanbul unfolds before us. On one side, we see the majestic Hagia Sophia, Topkapi Palace and the Blue Mosque, their minarets reaching towards the sky. On the other side, the modern skyscrapers of Asia rise like sentinels.

Bosphorus Ferry: Leaving Europe for Asia at Istanbul

The waters of the Bosporus, the waterway separating Europe and Asia, transform under the sunlight. Sailboats glide across the turquoise surface, while larger ships leave trails of white foam. We watch playful dolphins surfacing – a delightful surprise!

Bosphorus Ferry: Approaching Asia from Europe at Istanbul

The cool breeze carries the scent of saltwater and the exotic aromas of spices from nearby markets. As the wind whips through our hair, we feel the thrill of traversing the historic crossroads between continents.

Europe view from Asia: Europe to Asia Bosporus Ferry at Istanbul

We observe the diverse passengers - students engrossed in books, businessmen deep in conversation, families sharing laughter. This small ferry becomes a temporary stage for the vibrant tapestry of Istanbul life.

Docking in Asia: Europe to Asia Bosphorus Ferry at Istanbul

As the ferry approaches the Harem port on the Asian side, the excitement builds. We catch glimpses of mosques, bustling markets and charming neighborhoods waiting to be explored.

Returning to Europe from Asia: Europe to Asia Bosporus Ferry at Istanbul

Disembarking from the ferry, we feel a sense of accomplishment - we have crossed continents in minutes! The Asian side beckons with its unique culture, historical treasures and hidden gems.

Returning to Europe from Asia: Europe to Asia Bosphorus Ferry at Istanbul

Even after we step off the ferry, the excitement lingers. We will carry the memories of the breathtaking scenery, the cultural encounters and the thrill of bridging continents within us. It's a journey that epitomizes the magic of Istanbul.

We return to Europe at Eminönü port on another ferry back from Asia across the Bosphorus and have a quick dinner at the KFC right next to the port. We also tried the food at the Indian restaurant above the KFC. The later was decent, but it appeared to us "medium spicy" in Istanbul is "maximum spicy" back home in the United States. We need to remember to order "low spicy" next time in Istanbul!

Indian Restaurant and KFC at Eminönü Port

We head next towards the Galata Tower. We decide on winding our way up to Galata Tower on foot rather than taking the less strenuous climb aboard the nostalgic Galata Tower Tram that takes visitors up the hill from Karaköy. However, folks choosing to ride this historic tram have a fun experience in itself as the tram ride offers scenic views as it ascends.

The streets leading up to Galata Tower offer a delightful blend of history, modern charm and hidden surprises. We take the most common route to Galata Tower starting from Karaköy district, specifically Karaköy Kemerdere Caddesi (street). This narrow cobbled street with restored Ottoman-era buildings transports us back in time. We keep an eye out for charming cafes and local shops tucked away in these historical structures.

As we ascend, the historical ambience blends with modern Istanbul. Art galleries, trendy boutiques and design stores line the streets, showcasing the city's creative energy. Street performers add to the vibrant atmosphere.

Street up to Galata Tower

The path towards Galata Tower isn't a straight shot but a labyrinth of winding streets and hidden alleyways. This is part of the charm, allowing us to stumble upon unexpected discoveries. We don't hesitate to ask friendly locals for directions a couple of times.

Galata Tower

The imposing Galata Tower isn't just a landmark; it's a testament to Istanbul's rich history. The tower's origins date back to the 5th century when the Byzantines constructed a wooden tower to monitor the Golden Horn. In the 14th century, the Genoese, a powerful maritime force, rebuilt the tower in stone, giving it the cylindrical shape and conical roof we see today. They named it "Christea Turris" (Tower of Christ). 

Throughout history, the Galata Tower has served as a watchtower, a prison, a fire observation point and even a postal observatory. It stands as a silent witness to the city's evolution. Surviving numerous earthquakes and fires, it is a testament to Istanbul's enduring strength.

Galata Tower

Today, the tower's main attraction is the breathtaking panoramic view it offers of Istanbul. We can see the Golden Horn, the bustling cityscape and historical landmarks like Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace. The tower now also houses a museum showcasing artifacts and exhibits on the tower's history and Istanbul's past. There is also a restaurant on the top floor for a unique dining experience with a view.

Path down towards Rainbow Stairs (Rainbow Steps)

On our way down from the Galata Tower, we climb down the famous Rainbow Stairs of Beyoğlu district (MAP) close by the tower. The colorful stairs that have become an internet sensation are located in the Beyoğlu district, a bit further away from Galata Tower.

Rainbow Stairs

These stairs are called "Rainbow Stairs" or "Rainbow Steps" and they are indeed a vibrant and colorful spot to capture on camera.

Rainbow Steps

Climbing the streets towards Galata Tower is a journey through time, and reaching the top rewards us with panoramic vistas and a deeper appreciation for Istanbul's rich history.

We return to our hotel in Beyazıt, marking the end of our time in this trip in Istanbul. Our next destinations are a day trip via airplane from Istanbul to Denizli and rental car to the amazing natural white carbonate mineral terraces of travertine rock at Pamukkale in Denizli province of Turkey, and after that across the international border into Athens, Greece.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and  Gemini.