Courtyard of a Siheyuan (traditional house) on a Hutong (narrow alley) of Beijing

We previously reached Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia on a Russian train on the Trans-Siberian Railway track and explored a bit of the city of Ulan Bator and Mongolian countryside that consists of endless Central Asian Steppes with scattered nomad families living in Gers with their animals, totally self-reliant in living off the harsh terrain (See "Mongolia: Ulaanbaatar to Central Asian Nomads of Gorkhi Terelj National Park - a Journey into Mongolia's Heart"). We now head from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing on a Chinese train.

Trans-Mongolian Railways' Ulaanbaatar to Beijing International Express train ticket is a paper ticket that must be purchased in advance and can be bought at designated ticket offices or through travel agencies. Ticket offices only accept cash (Mongolian Tögrög - MNT or Chinese Yuan - RMB) and do not have English-speaking personnel, so it is more convenient to purchase the ticket through a travel agency. The ticket includes information such as the departure and arrival times, the train number, the seat number and the passenger's name. It is important to keep the ticket safe and present it to the conductor upon boarding the train.

Trans-Mongolian Railway: Ulaanbaatar to Beijing Train Ticket

The Ulaanbaatar to Beijing International Express train travels through a variety of landscapes, passing through several stations along its route. Starting in Ulaanbaatar, the Mongolian capital, the train journeys through the vast Gobi Desert and Mongolian steppe, offering stunning views of the open plains and dunes of the Great Gobi Desert in south-eastern Mongolia and China's north-eastern Inner Mongolia. The train crosses the border into China, stopping at the border town of Erlian for rail track size change. From there, the train continues its journey through Inner Mongolia, passing through cities like Jining and Shlingzi West, before finally arriving at its destination in Beijing. This scenic train journey provides a unique opportunity to experience the diverse landscapes and cultures of Mongolia and China.

Trans-Mongolian Railway: Ulaanbaatar to Beijing Time-Table posted inside the Train

After an epic journey across the Great Gobi Desert and through the mountains, our Chinese train on the Trans-Mongolian Railway track pulls into Beijing, a city where history and modernity meet in spectacular fashion. We embark on exploring the captivating historic city of Beijing and the Great Wall of China.

The Trans-Mongolian Railway Train Journey from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing

Trans Mongolian Railway: Our train at Ulaanbaatar Platform

Boarding the International Express Train from Ulaanbaatar to Beijing at the Ulaanbaatar railway station is a straightforward process.

Beijing - Erlian - Ulan-Bator: Our train at Ulaanbaatar Platform

Upon arrival, we locate the platform for our designated train. We keep our paper ticket ready, as we will need to present it to the conductor upon boarding. We find our assigned carriage and seat number and settle in.

Trans Mongolian Railway: Aboard our train at Ulaanbaatar Platform

We stow our luggage securely under the lower bunk and in the overhead racks. At the platform of Ulaanbaatar Railway Station, a vintage steam engine stands proudly, serving as a monument to Mongolia's industrial heritage and early days of rail transportation. The locomotive, preserved with striking details like its black metal body, red wheels and gleaming accents, is a popular photo spot for travelers taking the Trans-Mongolian Railway.

Steam Engine display at Ulan Bator Train Station

This historic engine harks back to a time when steam power was integral to connecting distant parts of the vast Mongolian landscape, symbolizing the critical role railways played in modernizing Mongolia. It stands as a tribute to the power and resilience of early engineering and Mongolia’s pivotal connections with Russia and China, which remain crucial today.

As the train departs, we embark on a scenic journey through the diverse landscapes of Mongolia and China. The train's first stop on the down journey from Ulan Bator to Beijing is at the little Mongolian town of Choir (Чойр). Choir sits on the edge of the Gobi Desert offering a glimpse into the stark beauty of Mongolia's remote landscapes.

Choir, Mongolia train station (composite)

As the Trans-Mongolian Railway winds its way through the arid plains, Choir emerges as a stark contrast to the vast, empty expanse. The town's weathered buildings and dusty streets reflect the harsh desert climate, while the distant horizon is dominated by the towering sand dunes.

Our next stop at Sainshand (Сайншанд) train station is an important stop on the Trans-Mongolian Railway serving as the gateway to the eastern Gobi Desert. The town itself, founded in 1931, has a rich history intertwined with the railway's development.

Sainshand, Mongolia train station

Sainshand grew rapidly as a vital transportation hub, connecting remote regions of Mongolia to the wider world. Today, Sainshand remains a significant center for trade and culture, offering visitors a glimpse into the harsh beauty of the Great Gobi Desert and the resilient spirit of its people.

Sainshand, Mongolia train station (composite)

Departing Sainshand, our Trans-Mongolian Railway train begins offering a breathtaking glimpse into the stark beauty of the Great Gobi Desert. As the train traverses the vast expanse of sand and rock, we are treated to a mesmerizing panorama of otherworldly landscapes. Towering sand dunes stretch towards the horizon, their golden hues shimmering under the desert sun. Rugged mountains rise abruptly from the arid plain, their barren peaks piercing the sky. 

The Great Gobi Desert

This desolate yet awe-inspiring landscape evokes a sense of both wonder and solitude, leaving a lasting impression on all who witness its grandeur.

The Zamiin-Uud (Замын-Үүд) train station is the last station located in Mongolia on the Trans-Mongolian Railway. Zamyn-Üüd serves as a crucial border crossing point between Mongolia and China.

Zamyn-Uud Train Station

Zamyn-Uud is a bustling station that witnesses the exchange of passengers and cargo between the two countries. Travelers on the Trans-Mongolian Railway must undergo border control procedures at Zamiin-Uud, which involves passport checks, customs inspections and potentially visa formalities.

Zamyn-Uud Train Station

Zamiin-Uud station's strategic location makes it a significant hub for trade and cultural exchange between the two nations, facilitating the movement of goods and people across the vast Eurasian landmass.

Train Wheel Change Warehouse for Railway Track Gauge Change, Erlian Train Station, Erenhot, China Mongolia Border Crossing

Trans-Mongolian Railway: Wheel Change Warehouse, Jining Depot, Hohhot Railway Bureau, Erlian Train Station, Erenhot

The Wheel Change Warehouse at Jining Depot of Hohhot Railway Bureau (换轮库呼铁局集宁车辆段) in Erlian, China is a unique and essential facility for trains traveling between Mongolia and China on the Trans-Mongolian Railway. Located in Erlian (Erenhot), the border town on the Chinese side, this facility performs the critical task of adjusting train wheel gauges.

Trans-Mongolian Railway: Hydraulic jacks to lift train carriages for railway track gauge change at Erlian Railway Yard in Erenhot, China

Across the Mongolia-China border, at Erlian Train Station in Erenhot, China, passengers on the Trans-Mongolian Railway experience a fascinating technical process: the change of railway track gauges. As the train crosses from Mongolia into China, the standard track gauge switches from the wider Russian gauge (1,520 mm) used in Mongolia to the narrower standard gauge (1,435 mm) used in China.

Trans-Mongolian Railway train car lifted for track gauge change at Erlian Railway Yard in Erenhot, China

To accommodate this change, the train is brought into a specialized facility where carriages are lifted individually by hydraulic jacks while passengers can choose to remain inside their railway car. The entire wheelbase, or bogie, under each carriage is removed and replaced with the appropriate gauge before it is securely lowered back onto the tracks.

Trans-Mongolian Railway train carriage lifted for track gauge change at Erlian Railway Yard in Erenhot, China

Russia primarily uses a 1,520 mm (4 ft 11 27/32 in) gauge, which is significantly wider than the standard 1,435 mm (4 ft 8 1/2 in) gauge used in most of the world, including China. This unique gauge, often referred to as the "Russian gauge", was adopted in the 19th century for various reasons, including the desire for stability and load-bearing capacity on the vast Russian railway network.

Trans-Mongolian Railway train car lifted for track gauge change at Erlian Railway Yard in Erenhot, China

While there are various theories about the specific reasons behind the choice of this gauge, including potential strategic considerations during wartime, the primary factors were likely practical and engineering-related. The wider gauge allowed for heavier trains and provided better stability on the often challenging terrain of the Russian Empire. As a result of this historical decision, Russia and several former Soviet republics and satellite countries, including Mongolia, continue to operate on this distinct gauge, making it necessary to use specialized rolling stock and infrastructure for international rail connections.

Trans-Mongolian Railway train carriage lifted for track gauge change at Erlian Railway Yard in Erenhot, China

The unique railway gauge track-changing experience, which takes several hours, allows passengers to observe a rare, large-scale engineering feat that showcases how different countries handle technical rail standards. The procedure is not only impressive but serves as a reminder of the logistical complexities and historic ties along this international rail route, one that connects three major nations: Russia, Mongolia and China.

Erlian (Erenhot) Train Station

Back on wheels of the correct Chinese / international railway gauge, we finally enter an actual platform of the Erlian (Erenhot) train station. The Erlian train station, a significant hub on the Trans-Siberian Railway, is a large, modern facility. The station building is a concrete structure with a prominent sign displaying its name in Chinese characters.

Erlian (Erenhot) train station

The Erlian (Erenhot) railway station houses various amenities for travelers, including ticket counters, waiting rooms and shops. The station's platform area is well-maintained and equipped with clear signage and seating. Additionally, the presence of maintenance facilities and multiple tracks demonstrates the station's capacity to handle a significant volume of rail traffic.

There is a large plaque on the platform of Erlian (Erenhot) train station in China representing the town’s historical and cultural significance as a border city. The design of the monument includes large Chinese characters on the left, symbolizing "border town," emphasizing Erlian’s role as a crucial point on the Trans-Mongolian Railway where travelers from Mongolia and Russia enter China.

Plaque at Erlian (Erenhot) train station

The main section of the monument contains a series of metal relief panels that illustrate scenes from Erlian’s history and cultural heritage. These reliefs likely depict landmarks, historical events and the evolution of the railway in the region, reflecting Erlian’s importance as a gateway for trade and travel. The intricate patterns along the edges of the monument, inspired by traditional Chinese designs, add a decorative and symbolic touch, highlighting the local cultural identity. At night, the monument is illuminated, which adds a dramatic effect to its details, creating a memorable sight for travelers passing through Erlian station. This monument serves as both a welcome sign and a tribute to Erlian's role in connecting diverse regions and cultures along the historic Trans-Mongolian route.

Chinese Countryside

The Chinese countryside, as seen from the Trans-Mongolian Railway from Erlian to Beijing, is a diverse tapestry of landscapes. Vast expanses of farmland, dotted with small villages and traditional Chinese houses, stretch as far as the eye can see.

Zhangjiakou, a historical city in Hebei Province, is an interesting stop on the Trans-Mongolian Railway, connecting Beijing with Ulaanbaatar and Moscow. Located about 180 kilometers northwest of Beijing, the city has long served as a strategic gateway between the northern regions of China and Inner Mongolia.

Chinese Countryside

Mountains, some snow-capped, rise in the distance, adding to the scenic beauty. With a rich history as a trade and military post along the ancient Great Wall, Zhangjiakou presents a blend of cultural heritage and modern development. Travelers passing through Zhangjiakou on the Trans-Mongolian Railway can catch glimpses of mountainous landscapes and open plains that hint at the traditional lifestyle of nomadic herders in the region.

Chinese Countryside

Chinese Countryside

Chinese Countryside

Chinese Countryside

Train stations along the route vary in size and architecture. Smaller stations, often located in rural areas, are simple structures with basic facilities.

The food served in the pantry cars of Chinese trains on the Trans-Mongolian Railway is excellent, typically consisting of Chinese cuisine with a focus on regional specialties. For Breakfast, we have a choice of Chinese porridge, Boiled eggs, Steamed buns (baozi) filled with various fillings like pork, vegetables or sweet red bean paste, Chinese breads served with butter or jam, Tea and coffee.

Dining aboard Pantry Car on Trans-Mongolian Railway train

For lunch and dinner, the menu offers Rice dishes with stir-fried vegetables, meat or seafood, Noodles in various forms such as soup noodles or fried noodles, Soups featuring vegetables, meat or dumplings, Mongolian dumplings (buuz) and Uyghur pilaf. Snacks and drinks are always available for in-car dining aboard the train, including Chips, nuts, candies, Bottled water, soft drinks, beer and tea.

Trans-Mongolian Railway

Larger stations, closer to major cities, are more elaborate, featuring modern amenities and architectural designs. As the train journeys through this picturesque landscape, passengers can witness the harmonious blend of traditional and modern China.

The scenery changes to distinctly suburban and then urban. The train stations are no loger rural. The large "严禁跳下站台横越线路" signs painted below platforms translate to "It is strictly forbidden to jump off the platform and cross the line".

It is strictly forbidden to jump off the platform and cross the line

Soon our Trans-Mongolian Railway train, a gleaming steel serpent, finally slithers into Beijing Railway Station. Its journey across vast landscapes, from the heart of Mongolia to the bustling metropolis of China, has come to an end. A symphony of clanking metal and hissing steam fills the air as the train grinds to a halt, its arrival heralded by the excited chatter of passengers and the curious gazes of onlookers. The train, a testament to human engineering and the spirit of exploration, stands as a symbol of the interconnectedness of nations and the enduring allure of rail travel.

Beijing

The Chinese capital of Beijing is a bustling metropolis with a population of approximately 21.7 million people. Its economy is robust, driven by sectors like technology, finance and services. The city is undergoing rapid development with new infrastructure projects and a focus on sustainable urban development. However, challenges such as air pollution and traffic congestion persist. Despite these issues, Beijing remains a vibrant cultural and historical center, attracting millions of tourists each year.

As our train approaches Beijing Railway Station, a glimpse of the city's storied past emerges. A section of the ancient city wall, a relic of the Ming Dynasty, looms large against the skyline. The weathered gray bricks and imposing stature of the Beijing Ming City Wall Ruins Park (北京明城墙遗址公园) offer a stark contrast to the modern cityscape. The Ming Dynasty wall, a testament to the grandeur of the Ming Empire, once encircled Beijing, protecting it from invaders and symbolizing imperial power. Construction began in 1419 under the Yongle Emperor and the wall, spanning 40 kilometers, was completed in 1439. It was a formidable structure, featuring imposing gates, watchtowers and a moat.

Ming Dynasty Wall

However, as Beijing modernized in the 20th century, much of the wall was demolished to make way for urban development, including the construction of the Beijing Subway. Today, only a small section of the wall remains, preserved as the Ming City Wall Ruins Park. This remnant offers a glimpse into the past, allowing visitors to appreciate the scale and engineering prowess of the Ming Dynasty. Despite the loss of most of the wall, the surviving section continues to captivate and inspire, serving as a reminder of Beijing's rich history and architectural heritage.

Ming Dynasty Wall

Soon our Trans-Mongolian Railway train, a gleaming steel serpent, finally slithers into Beijing Railway Station. Its journey across vast landscapes, from the heart of Mongolia to the bustling metropolis of China, has come to an end. A symphony of clanking metal and hissing steam fills the air as the train grinds to a halt, its arrival heralded by the excited chatter of passengers and the curious gazes of onlookers. The train, a testament to human engineering and the spirit of exploration, stands as a symbol of the interconnectedness of nations and the enduring allure of rail travel.

Ming Dynasty Wall

Beijing Railway Station, one of China's iconic train stations, was officially opened on September 10, 1959, as part of celebrations for the 10th anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China. The station’s construction was a significant undertaking and was emblematic of China's ambitions for modernization during this period.

Beijing Railway Station

The architectural style of Beijing Train Terminal blends traditional Chinese design elements, such as a pagoda-style roof, with modern functionality, symbolizing the fusion of China's past and future.

Beijing Railway Station

The station was designed to handle both domestic and international travelers, becoming a major hub for routes on the Trans-Mongolian and Trans-Manchurian railways, connecting Beijing to destinations like Moscow, Ulaanbaatar and Pyongyang.

Beijing Railway Station

At the time of its construction, it was the largest and most advanced railway station in China and was seen as a symbol of national pride and progress. Over the years, Beijing Railway Station has undergone several renovations and upgrades to accommodate increasing passenger traffic and modern demands.

Beijing Railway Station Parking and Bus Terminus

Despite the construction of newer, larger stations like Beijing West, Beijing South and Beijing North, Beijing Railway Station remains one of the busiest and most important rail hubs in China. Located near the city's historical center and close to the Forbidden City, it serves as both a practical transportation hub and a historical landmark for visitors to Beijing.

We get on a bus and head west from Beijing Train Station towards our hotel. Our bus drives along Qianmen East Street on the south side offering us our first views of Tiananmen Square. We pass by the Zhengyangmen (正阳门), also called the Qianmen, the iconic and historic "Front Gate" in Beijing and one of the most iconic architectural landmarks in the city.

Zhengyangmen

Located at the south of Tiananmen Square, Zhengyangmen was originally built during the Ming Dynasty in 1419 as part of the city’s outer defensive walls. originally known as Lizhengmen, Zhengyangmen served as the main entrance to the imperial city for many centuries and was an important passage for both military and ceremonial processions. Built in 1419 during the Ming Dynasty, Zhengyangmen was.

Zhengyangmen

The Zhengyangmen gate complex consists of two main structures: the main gate tower and the arrow tower, which were used for defense. The main gate tower is a grand, multi-storied structure that stands at about 42 meters tall, with traditional wooden architecture and grey brick walls. The arrow tower, slightly to the south, is fortified with small openings (or arrow slits) that allowed archers to defend the gate.

Zhengyangmen

In the early 20th century, the gate witnessed several key historical events and became a prominent feature in the photos and stories of old Beijing. It was burnt to ashes in 1900 during the Boxer Rebellion and was later rebuilt in 1902. During the modernization wave, much of Beijing's old city walls were removed, but Zhengyangmen was preserved due to its historical significance.

Zhengyangmen

Today, Zhengyangmen has become a symbol of Beijing’s rich past, contrasting with the modern buildings that surround it. The area around Qianmen Street (Qianmen Dajie), which lies near the gate, has been developed into a bustling pedestrian zone filled with shops, cafes and restaurants. The historic gate is an essential part of Beijing’s cultural heritage and a popular site for visitors who want to experience a piece of ancient Beijing.

West side of Tiananmen Square (Guangchang West Side Road)

Driving by Tiananmen Square, we also get a glimpse of its west side along Guangchang West Side Road. Closest to us is the Organ Office Building of National People's Congress (全国人大机关办公楼). Next to it further up is the China Numismatic Museum (中国钱币博物馆) behind which is The Great Hall of the People (人民大会堂).

We go up north on Guangchang West Side Road and then west on W. Chang'an Street. Looking back south-east, we also catch a glimpse of the Mausoleum of Mao Zedong (毛主席纪念堂) in the middle part of Tiananmen Square.

Mao Zedong Mausoleum

From W. Chang'an Street, while turning left into N. Xinhua Street, we see the impressive headquarters of the State Grid Corporation of China (国家电网公司), the world's largest utility company.

State Grid Corporation of China

State Grid Corporation of China

We finally reach out hotel - the Jianguo Hotel Qianmen Beijing (北京前门建国饭店) at the corner of Hufang road and Yongan road. The Jianguo Hotel Qianmen-Beijing is a luxury hotel located in the heart of Beijing's historic Qianmen district.

Jianguo Hotel Qianmen-Beijing

The hotel is within walking distance of many of the city's top attractions, including Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City and the Temple of Heaven. The hotel itself is a beautiful building with a modern design. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed, with all the amenities you would expect from a luxury hotel. The staff is friendly and helpful and the service is excellent.

One of the restaurants at Jianguo Hotel Qianmen-Beijing

The hotel has a number of restaurants and bars, as well as a spa and fitness center. There is also a rooftop pool with stunning views of the city. Note: The Vagabond Couple Travel Blog is not associated with any way with this hotel and this is not a paid promotion.

There is a Li Xiang Hui Chinese Restaurant (Laixianghui Dumplings Feast - 来相会饺子宴) right across our hotel. Laixianghui Dumplings Feast is a beloved local eatery renowned for its authentic and delicious dumplings. As we step into this unassuming restaurant, we are transported back in time, to a bygone era of traditional Chinese dining. Laixianghui's atmosphere is warm and inviting, with friendly staff and a relaxed ambiance.

Laixianghui Restaurant

The restaurant's signature dish, the dumplings, are simply divine. The thin, delicate wrappers enclose juicy fillings, ranging from classic pork and chive to more adventurous options like shrimp and vegetable. Each bite is a burst of flavor, a testament to the chef's skill and the quality of the ingredients. Beyond dumplings, the restaurant offers a variety of other dishes, including noodles and steamed buns. While these are also delicious, it's the dumplings that truly steal the show.

Beijing City Map - 北京城区地图 (Běijīng chéngqū dìtú)

Checked in and energized, we head to the Tiananmen Square area that is well within walkable distance. But we like to get on the public transport system of any city we visit to get an authentic feel for the city. We therefore get on a public bus.

Bus #5 Beijing

A very short bus ride across perhaps 4 stops and we are back at the north end of Tian'anmen Square.

Tiananmen area tourist map (天安门地区游览图)

Tiananmen Square, one of the world's largest public squares, is a symbol of Chinese power and history.

Tian'anmen Square (composite)

Located in the heart of Beijing, it's dominated by the iconic Tiananmen Gate (Gate of Heavenly Peace) and the Great Hall of the People.

Tiananmen Square (composite)

This vast plaza has witnessed significant historical events, including the proclamation of the People's Republic of China in 1949. Today, it remains a popular tourist destination and a venue for large-scale national ceremonies and celebrations.

Tiananmen (Gate of Heavenly Peace) at north of Tiananmen Square (composite)

The Tian'anmen, or Tiananmen Gate (Gate of Heavenly Peace), stands at the northern edge of Tiananmen Square in Beijing and is one of China's most iconic symbols. Originally built in 1420 during the Ming Dynasty as the main entrance to the Forbidden City, it was initially called "Chengtianmen" but was later renamed "Tiananmen" in the early Qing Dynasty. The Tiananmen gate served as a focal point for imperial ceremonies and declarations, symbolizing the authority and power of the emperors. Tiananmen's architecture is a stunning example of traditional Chinese design, with a large red base supporting a grand, tiered pavilion covered with golden glazed tiles.

Tiananmen & Forbidden City

The main Tiananmen gate is surrounded by tall red walls and features a series of five arched doorways, with the central door reserved exclusively for the emperor in ancient times. Above the central doorway is the iconic portrait of Chairman Mao Zedong, which faces south toward Tiananmen Square and is flanked by large red banners with Chinese slogans meaning "Long live the People's Republic of China" and "Long live the unity of the world's peoples".

Tiananmen

The Tiananmen has a deep historical significance, as it was from this very structure that Chairman Mao proclaimed the founding of the People's Republic of China on October 1, 1949. Since then, Tian'anmen has become a national symbol of China and its image is featured on Chinese currency. Today, the gate and its surrounding square are prominent gathering places, frequently used for parades, ceremonies and celebrations. Visitors to Tiananmen Gate can appreciate its historical importance, architectural beauty and the profound cultural heritage it represents in the heart of Beijing.

The Forbidden City, an architectural marvel, stands majestically north of Tiananmen. This vast palace complex served as the imperial residence for nearly 500 years, housing 24 emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Its intricate network of courtyards, halls and gardens reflects the grandeur and power of the Chinese emperors. The Forbidden City's imposing walls and towering gates once shielded its secrets from the outside world, earning it its name. Today, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, offering visitors a glimpse into China's imperial past.

Gazing south from the north side of Tiananmen Square, we see the Monument to the People's Heroes and Mausoleum of Mao Zedong with the National Museum of China on the left.

Tiananmen Square looking south: Monument to the People's Heroes (center), Mausoleum of Mao Zedong (far center)

The Monument to People's Heroes (人民英雄纪念碑), a towering obelisk located in the southern part of Tiananmen Square, stands as a solemn tribute to the martyrs of China's revolutionary struggle. Constructed from 13,000 pieces of granite and alabaster, the monument's imposing presence commands attention. Its base is adorned with eight massive bas-reliefs that depict key historical events, including the Opium War, the Taiping Rebellion and the May Fourth Movement.

The monument's inscription, penned by Mao Zedong himself, reads "The people's heroes will be remembered eternally". This powerful statement serves as a reminder of the sacrifices made by countless individuals in the pursuit of a better future for China.

Tiananmen Square West View: From left (south) - Mausoleum of Mao Zedong, Monument to the People's Heroes, Great Hall of the People, Zhengyangmen

The Mausoleum of Mao Zedong (毛主席纪念堂), also known as the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, is a solemn and iconic landmark located in the heart of Tiananmen Square. It serves as the final resting place of Mao Zedong, the founding father of the People's Republic of China. Although Mao had wished to be cremated, his body was embalmed and placed in a crystal coffin within the mausoleum. Visitors can pay their respects to the revered leader by viewing his preserved body, which lies in state in a dimly lit chamber.

Mausoleum of Mao Zedong

The Mausoleum of Mao Zedong is a significant pilgrimage site for many Chinese people, who come to honor the memory of Mao and his revolutionary legacy. The surrounding Tiananmen Square area is often filled with crowds of visitors, particularly on national holidays and special occasions.

Tiananmen Square looking south: National Museum of China (left), Monument to the People's Heroes (center), Mausoleum of Mao Zedong (far center)

From the north side of Tian'anmen Square, we climb down to the pedestrian tunnel that leads to the other highlights of the square. This tunnel is a modern convenience that offers a quick and efficient way to navigate the busy square.

Tiananmen Square Underground Pedestrian Passageway

This underground passageway is well-lit and air-conditioned, providing a comfortable escape from the elements, especially during the hot summer months. As we walk through the tunnel, we find informative displays and historical exhibits that showcase the rich cultural heritage of China. The tunnel also features numerous shops and vendors, offering a variety of souvenirs and local delicacies.

We exit the underground passageway at the eastern side of Tiananmen Square which is the location of the National Museum of China (中国国家博物馆), a colossal cultural institution standing majestically, housing an extensive collection of over a million artifacts offering a comprehensive overview of Chinese history and civilization.

National Museum of China

From prehistoric relics to imperial treasures and modern art, the museum's exhibits span millennia, showcasing the rich tapestry of China's past. The museum's grand architecture, with its sweeping staircases and spacious halls, creates an awe-inspiring atmosphere. As visitors delve into the museum's galleries, they can marvel at exquisite porcelain, ancient bronzes, stunning calligraphy and intricate paintings.

National Museum of China

The museum's commitment to education and cultural exchange is evident in its diverse range of exhibitions, which often feature international collaborations and groundbreaking research.

Directly across the square from the museum stands the Great Hall of the People (人民大会堂), a colossal architectural masterpiece which is a testament to China's power and grandeur. Located on the western side of Tiananmen Square, this imposing structure serves as the political heart of the nation. Its grand halls and opulent interiors are designed to inspire awe and reverence.

Monument to People's Heroes & Great Hall of the People

The Great Hall is the venue for significant national events, including sessions of the National People's Congress and the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference. Its iconic Great Hall of the People is renowned for its immense size and stunning chandeliers, while the Banquet Hall has hosted countless state dinners and diplomatic receptions. The building's architecture seamlessly blends traditional Chinese elements with modern design, creating a striking and memorable landmark.

We walk back to the south of Tian'anmen Square and cross Qianmen Street for a final look at the famous location - Zhengyangmen to Tianmen.

Zhengyangmen and Tiananmen Square view from South (Qianmen Street)

The China Railway Museum Zhengyangmen Branch (中国铁道博物馆正阳门馆) is located across the southeast corner of Tian'anmen Square at the intersection of Qianmen East Side Road and Qianmen East Street. The museum is housed in the historic Zhengyangmen East Railway Station and offers a fascinating glimpse into the evolution of China's railway system. This museum showcases a diverse collection of locomotives, carriages and railway artifacts, tracing the development of rail transportation from the 19th century to the present day.

China Railway Museum (Zhengyangmen Branch)

Visitors to the Zhengyangmen Branch of China Railway Museum can explore exhibits on the history of railway construction, technological advancements and the social impact of railways in China. The museum also features interactive displays, virtual reality experiences and multimedia presentations, making it an engaging and educational experience for visitors of all ages.

To the south of Tiananmen Square, right behind the Zhengyangmen, stands the gate to the legendary historic Qianmen Street of Beijing. There is a underground pedestrian tunnel leading to Qianmen Street from the southern side of Tiananmen Square.

Underground pedestrian tunnel from Tiananmen Square to Qianmen Street

Again, the underground pedestrian passage from south of Tiananmen Square to Qianmen Street is a convenient and efficient way to navigate the busy area. This well-lit and air-conditioned tunnel offers a comfortable escape from the elements, especially during the hot summer months. As you walk through the passage, you'll find shops, restaurants and various retail outlets, making it a popular spot for both locals and tourists. The tunnel also features historical exhibits and cultural displays, providing a glimpse into Beijing's rich heritage.

Underground pedestrian tunnel from Tiananmen Square to Qianmen Street

Helpful tips (馨提示:) posted at the entrance of the underground pedestrian passage include "Pay attention to the steps" (注意台阶), "Be careful of slippery floors" (小心地滑) and finally "Beijing welcomes you" (北京欢迎你).

New Year Festival Decoration, Qianmen Street

Beijing, the capital of China, has a rich history and has been known by various names throughout the centuries. Some of its historical names include Daidu - a Mongol name used during the Yuan Dynasty, Zhongdu - a Chinese name meaning "Central Capital" used during the Liao Dynasty and Jin Dynasty, Yanjing - a name also used during the Liao and Jin Dynasties and Nanjing meaning "Southern Capital," used during the Ming Dynasty. These names reflect the city's changing political and cultural significance over time. The name "Peking" is the older romanization of the Chinese name for Beijing. It was commonly used in English until the late 20th century. The shift to "Beijing" came about with the adoption of the Pinyin romanization system in the 1950s. This system aimed to provide a more accurate and consistent way to transcribe Chinese characters into the Roman alphabet. While "Peking" is still recognized, "Beijing" is now the internationally accepted name for the city.

We walk into the spectacular plaza at the head of Qianmen Street in downtown Beijing. Qianmen (Front Gate) is a historic district in Beijing that offers a glimpse into the city's rich past. This iconic street, lined with traditional Chinese architecture, has been a bustling commercial hub for centuries.

Qianmen Street (composite)

Visitors can explore the area's historic sites, including the majestic Zhengyangmen Gate and indulge in authentic Beijing cuisine at renowned restaurants like Quanjude Roast Duck. Qianmen also offers a unique shopping experience, with a blend of traditional shops and modern boutiques.

Qianmen Street (composite)

As we stroll through the vibrant streets, we feel transported back in time, experiencing the charm and allure of old Beijing. Walking along Qianmen Street in Old Town Beijing is like stepping back in time to experience the rich history and culture of the city. Located just south of Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, Qianmen Street is a famous pedestrian thoroughfare that dates back over 570 years to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Qianmen Street (composite)

Restored in recent years, the bustling Qianmen Dajie (Qianmen Street) combines historic charm with modern flair, making it a vibrant hub for both locals and tourists. As you stroll along the cobblestone pathways, you'll pass traditional Chinese storefronts, old teahouses and vintage shops housed in meticulously restored Qing-style buildings, complete with gray brick facades, classic red lanterns and curved rooftops.

Qianmen Street (composite)

Many stores here are family-run businesses that have been passed down for generations, offering everything from silk clothing and hand-crafted souvenirs to traditional Chinese medicines and iconic snacks.

Qianmen Street (composite)

The scent of street food fills the air - try some roasted duck, sugar-coated hawthorn skewers, or a freshly steamed baozi from one of the many street vendors.

Qianmen Street

The experience is both lively and atmospheric, with rickshaws and vintage trolleys adding to the nostalgic charm of the scene.

Qianmen Street

One highlight is the well-known Quanjude Peking Duck Restaurant, where patrons have enjoyed the famous dish for over a century. You’ll also find Duyichu Shaomai, a renowned dim sum spot that has served delicate dumplings since the 18th century.

Zhengyangmen Arrow Tower (正阳门箭楼) view from Starbucks on Qianmen Street

At night, the street lights up beautifully with traditional lanterns, enhancing the historic ambiance.

Qianmen Street

It's an immersive walk along Qianmen Dajie that blends Beijing’s ancient heritage with its thriving modern culture, making Qianmen Street a must-visit for anyone wanting to experience the soul of Old Beijing in a contemporary setting.

Starbucks, Qianmen Street

The Starbucks on Qianmen Street is a typical Starbucks, offering the same menu as other locations around the world. However, it is located in a historic area of Beijing and the building itself is quite interesting. It is a two-story building with a traditional Chinese facade.

Inside of Starbucks on Qianmen Street

We continue our exploration of old town Beijing in the Dashilan historical and cultural neighborhood which is like diving into a vibrant, centuries-old cultural tapestry that reveals both the traditions and eclectic charm of old Beijing.

Yingyuan, also known as "The British House", is a historic Western-style building located in Dashilan, one of Beijing's oldest and most vibrant commercial districts. Built during the late Qing Dynasty in the early 20th century, Yingyuan reflects a blend of Western architectural influences in an area traditionally dominated by classic Chinese architecture. The building was constructed as a place for foreign merchants and diplomats, representing British architecture with some elements adapted to local aesthetics.

The British House (Yingyuan)

The design of The British House includes signature Western elements like arched windows, ornate cornices and intricate brickwork, which contrast with the traditional hutongs and Chinese-style shop fronts surrounding it. Over the years, Yingyuan has been used for various purposes, including as a guesthouse and shop. In recent years, Dashilan has undergone revitalization and buildings like Yingyuan have become significant landmarks, attracting tourists and locals alike who are interested in Beijing's architectural diversity and cultural fusion. The building serves as a reminder of the historical interactions between China and the West in one of Beijing's most storied neighborhoods.

Dashilan

Located just southwest of Qianmen Street, Dashilan (大栅栏 or Dashilar) Historical and Cultural District is one of the city’s oldest shopping and entertainment districts, dating back over 600 years to the Ming Dynasty. As you wander through its narrow, winding alleys, you’ll feel the pulse of a neighborhood that has evolved with the times yet holds tightly to its roots.

Dashilan

The narrow alleys of Dashilan are a maze of bustling, atmospheric lanes that embody the charm of old Beijing. Known as "hutongs" these alleys are lined with traditional low-rise buildings with gray brick walls, tiled roofs and intricately carved wooden doors.

Dashilan

Many of the hutongs are just wide enough for two people to pass comfortably, creating an intimate and cozy atmosphere. The alleyways feel like stepping back in time, offering a glimpse into Beijing’s traditional neighborhood culture amid the city's modern landscape.

Dashilan

Dashilan is famous for its eclectic mix of traditional Chinese shops, tiny boutiques and modern art spaces, all tucked into restored Qing Dynasty-style buildings. You’ll pass stores with hand-painted wooden signs offering everything from Beijing’s famous silk, jewelry and traditional herbal medicines to tea, paper fans and embroidered slippers.

Dashilan

One of the most iconic spots here is the Ruifuxiang Silk Store, a historic shop that has been selling fine Chinese silk since 1893. There’s also the Neiliansheng shoe store, known for its traditional handmade cloth shoes that were once favored by emperors.

Dashilan

Artisanal shops and small galleries add a fresh, modern vibe to the old-fashioned storefronts. Look out for artists selling hand-painted scrolls, calligraphy tools and intricate paper-cut designs that reflect Beijing’s folk art heritage.

Dashilan

Hidden in these narrow lanes are also some of the city’s best street food stalls, where you can try Beijing specialties like jianbing (savory crepes), tanghulu (candied fruit skewers) and hot bowls of zhajiangmian (noodles with soybean paste).

Dashilan

As you stroll through, you’ll notice local residents going about their daily lives, adding a layer of authenticity to the experience. Traditional courtyard houses (siheyuan) are interspersed throughout the neighborhood, offering a glimpse into Beijing’s residential architecture, some of which have been transformed into boutique cafes and trendy restaurants.

Dashilan

The atmosphere in Dashilan is lively yet intimate, blending a sense of nostalgia with contemporary creativity. With each step, you’ll be walking through layers of history and culture that have been preserved yet reimagined for today, making a visit to Dashilan a unique, sensory experience that truly encapsulates the essence of Beijing’s historic past and vibrant present.

Dashilan

We take a public bus back from Dashilan to our hotel in Qianmen - a short but engaging bus ride that navigates through Beijing’s dynamic streets. What a fabulous end to a long day!

A bus stop along Dashilan

The next morning, we decide to try Beijing's metro mass-transit system.

Beijing Subway Map

The nearest subway station to our Jianguo Hotel Qianmen-Beijing is Hufangqiao metro station (虎坊桥站) on Line 7 of the Beijing Subway.

Hufangqiao subway station

Hufangqiao subway station was opened on December 28, 2014 as part of the stretch between Beijing West Railway Station and Jiaohuachang.

Hufangqiao metro station

The Hufangqiao station is located between Caishikou and Zhushikou stations.

Hufangqiao metro station

We are impressed by the transparent LED lighted display screens built right into the doors and windows of the subway trains of Beijing metro.

Beijing metro door and window transparent LED display screens

The primary signage on the doors is in Chinese characters indicating the direction of the train, for example "进站" for "entering station", "出站" for "exiting station" etc.

Beijing metro door and window transparent LED display screens

The Beijing Metro has been experimenting with innovative lighting technology featuring "magical windows" that transform into LED screens when the train is in motion.

Beijing metro door and window transparent LED display screens

These screens display various information, including the current station and the upcoming stops, making it easier for passengers to navigate the subway system. They also provide real-time updates on delays, disruptions and other relevant information as well as public announcements. Finally, some of the windows are used for advertising purposes, showcasing products and services from various companies, or sometimes traditional Chinese patterns or calligraphy adding a touch of cultural elegance.

Beijing metro door and window transparent LED display screens

In addition to the window displays, there are also LED screens above the doors that provide information about the train's route, the next station and other relevant announcements.

Beijing metro door and window transparent LED display screens

The impressive in-train signage showcases the innovative approach that the city of Beijing is taking to improve the passenger experience.

Train approaching Beijing subway station platform

Beijing Subway stations are also known for their modern design and technological advancements. Many stations feature a variety of digital displays, including Platform Screen Doors (PSDs) which are glass doors that separate the platform from the tracks, often having built-in LED screens that display information like train arrival times, line maps and advertisements.

Train approaching Beijing subway station platform

Large LED screens are commonly found on platforms, showing advertisements, news and public service announcements. Digital signs are also used to guide passengers to different exits, transfers and facilities within the station.

We climb out of the underground tunnels of Beijing metro and return to the fascinating historic neighborhood of Qianmen Dajie to explore it and the hutongs around it a bit more. The public restrooms around here are pretty as well as generally clean and functional. Public restrooms in China have significantly improved in recent years, especially in major tourist areas.

Public Restroom at Tiananmen Square/Qianmen Street

Many public toilets now are equipped with modern facilities, clean environments and sometimes even unique designs. If you're visiting the area, I recommend keeping an eye out for newer public restrooms, as they may surprise you with their cleanliness and amenities.

Qianmen Street in Beijing is known for its unique and artistic manhole covers. These covers are not just functional but also serve as miniature works of art, adding a touch of creativity to the streetscape. While not all manhole covers in Qianmen are decorated, many feature intricate designs and patterns. Some common motifs include traditional Chinese patterns that often incorporate elements like dragons, phoenixes and auspicious symbols.

A decorated manhole cover on sidewalk of Qianmen Street

These rectangular metallic plaques lying along the sidewalks of Qianmen Dajie also feature geometric shapes, abstract patterns, or even pop culture references. Calligraphy of Chinese characters, often poetic or historical in nature, are sometimes incorporated into the designs. These decorated manhole covers have gained popularity among tourists and locals alike, who often take photos of them. They are a testament to the city's commitment to blending traditional culture with modern aesthetics.

Qianmen Street

Qianmen Street is lined with fascinating bronze sculptures that capture scenes from old Beijing, giving visitors a glimpse into the daily life and history of the city. These life-sized sculptures represent various characters from early 20th-century Beijing, including street vendors, craftsmen and common folk engaged in their daily activities.

Qianmen Street Bronze Statue Sculpture

One sculpture might depict a noodle seller with his portable stove, frozen mid-motion as if ready to serve a customer. Another might show a shoe shiner or a vendor with his birdcages, evoking the lively commercial atmosphere of traditional Beijing.

Qianmen Street Bronze Statue Sculpture

Each sculpture is intricately detailed, down to the clothing, facial expressions and tools and they are often interactive, inviting passersby to take photos or even sit beside them.

Qianmen Street Bronze Statue Sculpture

These sculptures not only enhance the cultural atmosphere of Qianmen Street but also serve as educational installations, helping tourists and locals alike appreciate the rich, historical legacy of Beijing’s Old Town.

Qianmen Street Bronze Statue Sculpture

The sculptures add a nostalgic charm to the area, bridging the gap between modernity and the heritage of old Beijing.

Occasionally, we also encounter living statues on the sidewalks of Qianmen Dajie in front of stores, depicting historical figures or traditional characters. These performers are skilled at remaining motionless for extended periods, creating an immersive experience for visitors.

Hutong (narrow alley) off Qianmen Street

Shopping on Qianmen Street in Beijing is a vibrant blend of historical charm, cultural richness and unique architecture, making it one of the most memorable retail experiences in the city.

Hutong (Narrow alley) and Siheyuan (traditional house) doors off Qianmen Street

As we mentioned before, Qianmen Street, one of Beijing’s oldest commercial districts, dates back over 500 years to the Ming and Qing dynasties.

Qianmen Street

Qianmen street was meticulously restored to retain its traditional architectural style, with elaborate Qing-era façades, Chinese-style wooden storefronts, red lanterns and gray-brick buildings, providing a stunning historical backdrop as you browse.

Qianmen Street

Today, Qianmen Street offers a mix of old and new, with traditional shops alongside modern brands. Many of the older shops are legendary, including Tongrentang, a traditional Chinese pharmacy known for its herbal medicine and Quanjude, a famous roast duck restaurant founded in 1864, which still serves its renowned Peking duck.

Qianmen Street

Visitors to Qianmen can also find tea shops, silk stores and handicraft sellers offering products deeply rooted in Chinese culture, like silk fans, calligraphy brushes and intricately crafted porcelain.

Hutong (narrow alley) off Qianmen Street

The shopping experience here at Qianmen is enhanced by pedestrian-friendly spaces and side streets like Dashilan, known for its narrower alleyways and hidden gems.

Qianmen Street

Some Qianmen shops preserve traditional practices, such as hand-weaving and tea brewing, allowing visitors to witness skilled artisans at work.

Qianmen Street

In contrast, modern brands like Nike and H&M have also set up in Qianmen buildings designed to harmonize with the historical architecture, making it a well-balanced blend of history and modernity.

Qianmen Street

It is important to keep in mind certain things to maximize the Qianmen Street experience. Practice your bargaining skills, especially in traditional shops. Ask for permission before taking photos of people or shop interiors. Consider using translation apps or hiring a guide for seamless communication. Finally, ensure you have enough local currency for shopping and dining.

Qianmen Street

The cultural depth and visual beauty of Qianmen Street create an immersive experience, inviting visitors not only to shop but to explore Beijing’s rich heritage in a unique and memorable way.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

We exit Qianmen Street and walk on to continue to experience the authentic charm of Beijing, away from the glitz of modern skyscrapers, in Beijing old town's Shichahai and Chaoyang neighborhoods which are home to three interconnected lakes: Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Back Lake) and Xihai (West Lake) as well as Long Lake (龙湖) featuring the famous Drum Tower.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

These lakes, surrounded by historic hutongs and traditional courtyards, offer a serene escape from the bustling city. Houhai is the largest and most popular, known for its lively nightlife scene with bars and restaurants lining its shores.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Xihai, on the other hand, is quieter and more contemplative, with beautiful temples and gardens. The area surrounding Beijing's Long Lake and Drum Tower is another captivating blend of ancient history and modern life.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Here also you will find a network of traditional hutongs, narrow alleyways lined with centuries-old courtyard houses known as siheyuan.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

These siheyuan houses, often featuring intricate brickwork and wooden latticework, offer a glimpse into the lives of generations of Beijingers.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

While many hutongs have been modernized or demolished, those around the Shichahai and Chaoyang neighborhoods retain much of their original charm.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Wandering through these historic lanes, you can experience the tranquility of old Beijing, far removed from the bustling city center.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Rickshaws in Beijing's hutongs are a simple yet ingenious piece of human-powered engineering. Typically, they consist of a two-wheeled cart with a bench seat for passengers and a long shaft for the driver to pull.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The cart is lightweight and maneuverable, making it well-suited for navigating the narrow, winding hutongs. The driver, often referred to as a "rickshaw puller," requires significant physical strength and skill.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Rickshaw pullers use their arms and legs to propel the rickshaw, often at a brisk pace. The driver's ability to navigate the complex maze of hutongs, avoiding pedestrians and obstacles, is a testament to their experience and expertise.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

While modern transportation options have largely replaced rickshaws for daily commuting, they remain a popular choice for tourists seeking a unique and authentic experience of Beijing's old town.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Rickshaws have been an integral part of Beijing's history, particularly in the old town hutongs. Introduced in the late 19th century, they quickly became a popular mode of transportation, especially for those who couldn't afford other modes of transport.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Rickshaw pullers, often from impoverished backgrounds, relied on their physical strength and endurance to earn a living.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Economically, rickshaws provided a crucial service, connecting people within the city and facilitating commerce. However, the profession was also fraught with challenges. Rickshaw pullers often faced long hours, harsh weather conditions and low wages. They were vulnerable to exploitation by rickshaw owners and faced discrimination from society.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Culturally, rickshaws symbolized the rapid modernization of China. They were a stark contrast to the traditional modes of transportation like sedan chairs and horse-drawn carriages.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

However, the rickshaws and rickshaw pullers of Beijing also reflected the social inequalities of the time. The physical labor of the rickshaw pullers was a stark reminder of the gap between the rich and the poor.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Over time, as Beijing modernized, the role of rickshaws declined. The advent of automobiles, buses and bicycles offered more efficient and convenient transportation options.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Today, rickshaws are primarily used for tourism purposes, offering visitors a unique and nostalgic experience of the old city.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The hutongs are narrow, winding alleys formed by lines of traditional siheyuan courtyard residences. These ancient neighborhoods offer a glimpse into the way of life that has shaped the city for centuries, capturing the soul of old Beijing.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

We started our adventure with a ride on a rickshaw, the traditional bicycle taxi that is a common sight in the hutongs. As we rolled along the narrow cobbled lanes, the rickshaw driver shared stories about the history and culture of the area, pointing out landmarks and charming old shops tucked away in the corners.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The leisurely ride gave us time to absorb the unique atmosphere of the hutongs - the sounds of birds, the chatter of neighbors and the scent of sizzling street food wafting from small eateries.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The hutongs are more than just streets; they are living history. Many date back to the Yuan Dynasty (1271–1368) and were designed to create a close-knit community.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

These narrow alleys of old Beijing were once the homes of scholars, craftsmen and officials of ancient dynasties and the architecture reflects the wisdom of traditional Chinese urban planning.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Our rickshaw journey brought us to a traditional siheyuan, a historic courtyard house that is a hallmark of Beijing's hutongs. These traditional courtyard homes are built around a central open courtyard, surrounded by rooms on all four sides. We were warmly welcomed inside by a local family, who graciously shared stories of their life in this ancestral home.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The siheyuan is more than just a house; it is a cultural treasure that has been passed down through generations. Inside, the rooms were filled with antique wooden furniture, intricate carvings and delicate red lanterns hanging from the eaves.

Statue of man performing Tai Chi, Beihai Park

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The courtyard of the siheyuan was a serene space with potted plants, birdcages and a small stone table for tea. Our hosts offered us a cup of jasmine tea as we listened to tales of old Beijing - how families would gather in the courtyard during the summer to escape the heat or how celebrations of Chinese New Year would fill the alleys with vibrant red decorations and the sound of firecrackers.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Immersing in the Hutong Life Walking through the hutongs after our visit, we felt a deep connection to the history and culture of Beijing.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

These neighborhoods are filled with life - elderly residents playing chess on the sidewalk, children running through the alleys and the smell of fresh dumplings wafting from tiny kitchen windows. It is a world where time seems to slow down and the simplicity of life shines through.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

We ended our trip with a stop at a small local café, nestled in one of the alleyways, where we enjoyed a delicious bowl of noodles and observed the passing scenes of daily life.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Exploring the hutongs is not just about seeing old buildings; it is about immersing yourself in a way of life that has endured for centuries. It’s an experience that brings you closer to the heart of Beijing - a city where the past and present harmoniously coexist.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

A guided rickshaw tour is the best way to see the hutongs, as the drivers often act as informal guides, sharing interesting stories and facts.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Step inside a siheyuan to learn about traditional Chinese family life and architecture.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Try local snacks. The hutongs are filled with food stalls and small eateries where you can taste authentic Beijing street food like jianbing (savory crepes) and baozi (steamed buns).

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Remember that the hutongs are home to many families. Be respectful when taking photos and exploring the alleys.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

The hutongs of Beijing are a living museum, a place where every corner holds a story. It is an unmissable journey for anyone looking to uncover the true essence of this ancient city.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

This bustling neighborhood offers a fascinating blend of ancient and modern Beijing.

Old Beijing hutong & siheyuan tour on rickshaw

Jingshan Front Street, a historic thoroughfare, runs parallel to the southern wall and Tongzi River of the Forbidden City. Lined with traditional shops, tea houses and local eateries, the Jingshan Front street area provides a glimpse into the city's rich cultural heritage.

Jingshan Front Street

From Jingshan Front Street, visitors can easily access the majestic Forbidden City, the serene Beihai Park and the iconic Jingshan Park, offering a unique perspective of the Forbidden City's grandeur.

Jingshan Front Street

Beihai Park (北海公园), also known as Northern Sea Park, is a captivating oasis nestled within the heart of Beijing. This expansive imperial garden, with a history spanning over a millennium, offers a serene escape from the bustling city. The park's centerpiece is a vast lake, surrounded by lush gardens, elegant pavilions and historic structures. The Circular Fortress, or Tuancheng, is a unique and historic structure within Beihai Park. It's a raised, circular platform crowned with the Hall of Divine Light (Chengguang Dian). This circular fortress was originally built during the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234) and has since undergone various renovations and expansions. The Hall of Divine Light houses a significant Buddhist relic: a large white jade Buddha statue. This statue, a gift from a Khmer king to the Guangxu Emperor, is a stunning piece of craftsmanship and a testament to the cultural exchange between China and Southeast Asia. The Circular Fortress offers visitors a glimpse into the imperial past of Beijing, providing a serene and contemplative atmosphere. It's a popular spot for photography and simply enjoying the peaceful surroundings.

Yong An Bridge, a historic stone bridge, connects the mainland to Qiong Island in Beihai Park. This bridge, built in the 13th century during the Yuan Dynasty, is a stunning example of traditional Chinese architecture.

Circular Fortress (Tuancheng Fortress) view from Beihai Bridge (北海大桥)

One of the highlights is the iconic White Dagoba, a towering white pagoda that stands majestically on an island in the lake.

The "Whita Dagoba" Pagoda at Beihai Park

Visitors can rent a boat to get closer to the impressive pagoda and enjoy stunning views of the park. The park also houses the Nine Dragon Wall, a magnificent ceramic wall adorned with intricate dragon motifs.

We return to our hotel on yet another form of transport: an Electric rickshaw, often referred to as "e-trike" or "tuk-tuks" which are a common mode of transportation in Beijing, especially in the bustling hutong districts. These three-wheeled vehicles offer a convenient and eco-friendly way to navigate the city's narrow streets and avoid traffic congestion.

Tuk-Tuk

In Beijing and generally in China, E-rickshaws are typically used for short distances, transporting both locals and tourists to popular destinations, markets and historical sites. While they provide a unique and nostalgic experience, it's important to negotiate fares beforehand to avoid potential disputes and ensure a pleasant ride.

The next morning, we head out into the infamous Beijing smog from our hotel towards the Juyong Pass (map) part of the Great Wall of China at Badaling. We see a smog-covered Beijing's Financial Street (复兴门 - Jinrong Jie), the heart of China's financial hub, a modern and dynamic district located in the Xicheng District of the capital. Often referred to as the "Wall Street of China", this area is the country’s primary financial hub, housing the headquarters of major state-owned banks, regulatory bodies and international financial institutions.

Established in the 1990s as part of China’s push to modernize its financial industry, Financial Street has become a symbol of China’s economic power and rapid urban development. The architecture of Financial Street is a blend of sleek, modern skyscrapers, glass-walled office buildings and elegant high-rise towers, all designed to exude sophistication and power. The area features state-of-the-art office spaces, luxury hotels and high-end retail shops, making it a bustling commercial zone.

Financial Street

Iconic buildings like the headquarters of the People’s Bank of China, China Banking Regulatory Commission and China Securities Regulatory Commission dominate the skyline, reflecting the area’s critical role in the nation’s financial operations. Beyond its business environment, Financial Street also boasts landscaped parks, public art installations and wide boulevards, making it a pleasant area for walking and leisure activities.

The district is well-connected with Beijing’s efficient public transportation, including metro lines and bus routes. It is also close to significant cultural landmarks like the Forbidden City and Beihai Park, blending business with history. Culturally, Financial Street represents the shift in China’s economy towards finance and services. It has become a symbol of China’s ambitions on the global financial stage, attracting both domestic and international investors.

Funei Avenue view from 2nd Ring Road, Beijing

On our way on Balding Expressway, we catch a glimpse of the Deshengmen gate archery tower. Deshengmen Gate (德胜门) is one of the ancient city gates of Beijing, once part of the old city wall that encircled the capital. Located to the north of the city, Deshengmen was historically an important military gateway, symbolizing "victorious return" for troops after battles.

Constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368 - 1644), it formed part of Beijing's extensive defensive fortifications and was one of the nine key gates in the city wall system. The architecture of Deshengmen features a distinctive barbican with two main structures: the watchtower and the archery tower. The large, arched watchtower, made from gray bricks, rises impressively above the surrounding area, while the three-story archery tower is equipped with multiple arrow slots for defense.

Old city wall and Deshengmen Gate archery tower

Though much of Beijing's old city wall has been demolished, Deshengmen's structures, particularly the archery tower, have been preserved and restored, making it a valuable historical remnant of old Beijing's urban defenses.

Traditional building on De Sheng Men Wai Da Jie

Today, Deshengmen stands near the busy ring roads of modern Beijing, adjacent to the Deshengmen Bus Station, which serves as a gateway for public transport to the Great Wall at Badaling. The area around the gate is bustling with activity and visitors can explore the surroundings and imagine the historical context of the gate as a strategic military point. Deshengmen is also a popular spot for tourists interested in the remnants of Beijing’s ancient city walls and offers insight into the historical evolution of Beijing’s urban landscape.

The Great Wall of China

The journey from Beijing’s bustling city center to Juyong Pass (居庸关 - Ju Yong Guan Chang Cheng), the Gateway to the Great Wall, along the Badaling Expressway is a scenic and historical route leading to one of China's most iconic landmarks. The expressway, known for its smooth road and panoramic views, stretches northwest from Beijing, cutting through lush green hills and past ancient villages.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

Along the way, you’ll pass several important landmarks, including the Ming Tombs Reservoir, a tranquil body of water surrounded by mountains and the Changping District, home to the resting places of several Ming Dynasty emperors.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

As you ascend into the mountains, the landscape becomes more rugged, signaling your approach to the Great Wall. The first section of the Great Wall you'll encounter is at Juyong Pass, a historic stronghold located just 50 kilometers from Beijing.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

The Juyong Pass was one of the most critical gateways to the capital, serving as a military outpost and a key defense point for centuries.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

The architecture of the wall at Juyong Pass is impressive, featuring steep, winding steps built from stone and bricks, fortified watchtowers and defensive parapets. The wall hugs the contours of the mountains, showcasing the ingenuity of its ancient builders in adapting the structure to the challenging terrain.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

As you continue north on the Badaling Expressway, you arrive at the Badaling Great Wall, the most visited and well-preserved section of the wall. Built during the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644), Badaling was constructed with large granite blocks, bricks and stone, making it both sturdy and visually striking.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

This section of the wall was designed to protect against invasions by nomadic tribes and served as a crucial line of defense for the capital. The engineering marvel of Badaling is evident in its design - massive stone steps, steep ascents and a wide walkway capable of supporting troop movements and transportation.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

The wall rises and falls along the mountainous ridges, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding valleys. The watchtowers at Badaling, built at regular intervals, provided lookout points for soldiers to observe incoming threats and light signal fires.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

The Badaling section of the Great Wall holds deep cultural significance for the Chinese people. It symbolizes the enduring strength and determination of the nation. It was here that leaders like Mao Zedong declared, "He who has not climbed the Great Wall is not a true hero," cementing its status as a must-visit for anyone seeking to understand Chinese history.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass

Today, Badaling is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a popular destination for both local and international tourists. The wall’s restoration and preservation efforts have ensured that visitors can experience its ancient grandeur while learning about its strategic importance in Chinese history. 

The drive itself offers glimpses of the impressive landscape of Yanqing District, dotted with ancient watchtowers perched high on mountain peaks.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass (composite)

You’ll also pass the Guangou Valley, known for its dramatic cliffs and verdant scenery and the Great Wall Museum, which provides deeper insights into the construction, history and stories of the Great Wall’s defenders.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass (composite)

This journey from the heart of Beijing along the Badaling Expressway to the Juyong Pass and Badaling Great Wall offers a captivating mix of historical depth, architectural brilliance and stunning natural beauty, making it a memorable experience for any traveler exploring the legacy of ancient China.

The Great Wall of China: Juyong Pass (composite)

We next drive back to the Beijing Jade Factory Outlet Store (北京市玉器厂销售大厅) in Changping which is to the southeast of Beijing. Jade holds a special place in Chinese culture, revered for its beauty, durability and spiritual significance. Prized since ancient times, jade was often used to craft intricate carvings, jewelry and ritual objects. It was associated with virtues like purity, wisdom and immortality. The Chinese character for "jade" (玉) is visually similar to the character for "king" (王), reflecting its association with royalty and power. Today, jade remains highly valued, with exquisite pieces adorning museums and private collections worldwide.

Welcome to Changping

This place is of interest to visitors looking for a unique shopping experience in jade. While it offers a wide range of jade products, from jewelry to carvings, the experience can be mixed.

Beijing Jade Factory Outlet Store

The store is directly linked to a jade factory, ensuring the authenticity of the products. A vast selection of jade items in different colors, shapes and sizes are up for sale. There are exhibits for visitors to learn about the history, culture and properties of jade.

Beijing Jade Factory Outlet Store

On the flip side, it is a glitzy and commercial store with aggressive sales tactics which can be overwhelming for those who are not experienced shoppers. The prices may seem reasonable compared to other retailers but it's important to negotiate and do your research to ensure you're getting a fair deal.

Cafe at Beijing Jade Factory Outlet Store

In fact, it is best to do your research and learn about jade before visiting to better understand its value and quality. Haggling is common practice in China, so don't be afraid to negotiate the price. Determine how much you're willing to spend before you start shopping. If you feel pressured or uncomfortable, walk away.

We head back to central Beijing towards the Bird's Nest Olympic Stadium (map).

Beijing haze

Even driving the 13 miles in haze from Beijing Jade Factory Outlet Store to Bird's Nest Stadium might be difficult, as visibility could be significantly reduced. It is always best to exercise extreme caution while driving in such conditions.

We return to Beijing and continue our exploration at the Beijing National Stadium, affectionately known as the Bird's Nest, an architectural marvel that captivated the world during the 2008 Summer Olympics.

The Bird's Nest Beijing Olympic Stadium (composite)

Several bus routes, including numbers 82, 538 and 611, stop at the National Stadium East stop, bringing visitors within walking distance of the iconic venue. Additionally, subway lines 8 and 10 offer convenient access to the Olympic Sports Center station, providing another option for reaching the stadium.

Diesel Tourist Trackless Trains at Bird's Nest Stadium

There are funky tourist trackless trains and buses at the head of the long walk to the stadium.

The Bird's Nest - Beijing National Stadium

The Bird's Nest Stadium's iconic design, resembling a bird's nest woven from steel, is both striking and functional.

The Bird's Nest - Beijing Olympic Stadium

The intricate steel latticework of the stadium creates a breathtaking silhouette, especially at night when illuminated. Visitors can explore the stadium's interior, including the athlete's changing rooms, the field and the upper levels.

The Bird's Nest - Beijing National Stadium

Tourists can also climb to the top for panoramic views of the Olympic Green and Beijing city skyline. Visitors have an opportunity to learn about the stadium's role in the 2008 Olympics and its ongoing legacy. People also capture stunning photos of the stadium from various angles.

The Bird's Nest - Beijing Olympic Stadium

There is a store of the famous Dao Xiang Cun bakery and confectionery company at 6 Xiaoying Rd. near the Bird's Nest stadium. Dao Xiang Cun 1773 is a renowned bakery chain in Beijing, boasting a rich history dating back to 1773.

Dao Xiang Cun 1773

Renowned for its traditional Chinese mooncakes, pastries and snacks, the bakery has become a beloved institution among locals and tourists alike. Chinese mooncakes are a traditional delicacy enjoyed during the Mid-Autumn Festival. These rich pastries typically consist of a thick, flaky crust encasing a sweet filling, often made from lotus seed paste, red bean paste, or mixed nuts. Some mooncakes also include salted egg yolks, symbolizing the full moon. The intricate designs and symbolic meanings imprinted on the mooncake's surface add to their cultural significance. Mooncakes are not only a tasty treat but also a cherished symbol of family gatherings and moon watching during this festive occasion.

Dao Xiang Cun 1773

Their signature treats include moon cakes as well as a variety of biscuits, cakes and savory snacks. With its commitment to quality and time-honored recipes, Dao Xiang Cun 1773 continues to be a culinary gem in Beijing's vibrant food scene.

Chinese Opera (Beijing Opera)

Before leaving China, we have an opportunity to experience live Chinese opera performances which consisted of two folk tales being played out on the stage. Chinese opera is a dazzling, immersive experience that blends music, theater, dance, acrobatics and elaborate costumes into a vibrant performance. It’s a centuries-old art form that still captivates audiences today with its dramatic storytelling and intricate beauty.

A unique feature of many Chinese opera performances is the tradition of allowing the audience to watch the actors apply their makeup - transforming right before your eyes into mythical characters, legendary heroes and ancient gods.

Chinese Opera: Actor applying Make-Up on Stage

Before the show begins, the actors often sit on stage or in a visible area to apply their elaborate makeup. This ritual is an integral part of the performance, giving the audience a behind-the-scenes glimpse of the transformation process. The facial makeup, called lianpu, is a form of symbolic art, where each color and design represents different character traits and emotions. For example: White symbolizes treachery or villainy. Red signifies loyalty and bravery. Black stands for integrity and strength. Using bold strokes and bright colors, the actors carefully paint their faces, accentuating their eyes, eyebrows and lips. This preparation can take hours and the actors skillfully change their appearance, enhancing the dramatic features needed for expressive facial movements.

Chinese Opera: Actor applying Make-Up on Stage

Watching the actors apply their makeup is mesmerizing; it’s like witnessing the birth of a character steeped in tradition and storytelling.

Chinese Opera: Actor applying Make-Up on Stage

Once their faces are painted, the actors don lavish costumes made of luxurious silk, adorned with elaborate embroidery and decorated with symbols of dragons, phoenixes and other mythical creatures. The costumes are not just clothing - they are integral to the storytelling, reflecting the character’s status, personality and role in the narrative. Flowing robes, headdresses with tassels and beaded accessories make the performers look regal and otherworldly.

Chinese Opera performance

The performance itself is a spectacular blend of acting, singing and acrobatics. Chinese opera has distinct regional variations, such as Beijing Opera (Peking Opera), Sichuan Opera and Cantonese Opera, each with unique styles, dialects and techniques. Beijing Opera, for instance, is known for its high-pitched singing, stylized movements and martial arts choreography. The actors use exaggerated gestures, intricate hand movements and precise footwork to convey emotions and tell the story. The dialogue and lyrics are sung in a high, resonant pitch, with stylized vocal techniques that are distinctly different from Western opera.

Chinese Opera performance

The vocal performance is intense, combining poetry and traditional Chinese music. The singing style is called "xipi" or "erhuang". The actors’ singing voices are often accompanied by the jinghu, a two-stringed fiddle and percussion instruments, such as cymbals and gongs, which punctuate the rhythm and heighten the drama.

The orchestra in Chinese opera is small but powerful, typically consisting of traditional instruments like the pipa (a lute-like instrument), the suona (also called dida laba or haidi, a traditional double-reeded Chinese musical instrument),  the erhu (a two-stringed bowed instrument) and the bangu (a wooden clapper drum). The music is integral to the performance, setting the tone for the scenes, guiding the actors' movements and emphasizing key moments in the story. The soundscape is unique, with a blend of haunting melodies, percussive beats and rhythmic patterns that evoke a sense of ancient Chinese culture.

Chinese Opera performance

Chinese opera draws from a wealth of historical events, folklore and classic literature. The stories often feature heroes, deities, warriors and mythical beings and revolve around themes of love, loyalty, betrayal and sacrifice. Many tales are adaptations of famous Chinese novels like "The Romance of the Three Kingdoms", "Journey to the West" or stories of legendary figures like the general Guan Yu or the romantic poet Li Bai.

Chinese Opera performance

Watching Chinese opera is a communal experience that connects the audience to a tradition that has been passed down for centuries. It’s a visual and auditory feast, filled with dramatic plots, stunning visuals and music that resonates deep into the soul. For many, it is more than just a performance - it’s a link to the cultural heritage and artistic achievements of ancient China. The experience is enhanced by the setting, often in historic teahouses or grand theaters that add to the authenticity and atmosphere.

End of an Epic Journey: The Trans-Siberian Railway & the Trans-Mongolian Railway

Embarking on the epic journey from Moscow to Beijing aboard the legendary Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian Railway is a mesmerizing adventure that spans thousands of miles across three vast countries, taking you through the heart of Russia, Mongolia and China.

Departing from the grand Yaroslavsky Station in Moscow, the train winds its way past the sprawling cities and historic towns of the Russian steppe, crossing the mighty Volga River and the endless taiga forests. As the rhythmic clatter of the train merges with the changing landscapes, passengers can gaze out at the serene waters of Lake Baikal, the world’s deepest and oldest freshwater lake, often shrouded in mist and surrounded by rolling mountains.

Crossing the Russian-Mongolian border, the scenery transforms into the golden, open plains of Mongolia, where nomadic herders can be seen guiding their livestock and traditional gers (yurts) dot the horizon. A stop in Ulaanbaatar offers a chance to explore Mongolia’s vibrant capital and the vast expanse of Gorkhi-Terelj National Park, where travelers can experience the unique lifestyle of Mongolian nomads and witness the rugged beauty of Turtle Rock and Ariyabal Meditation Temple.

The journey then continues into China, passing through the arid Gobi Desert, with its endless sand dunes and distant oases, before reaching the iconic Badaling Great Wall near Beijing. As the train finally pulls into Beijing Railway Station, passengers are greeted with the vibrant, bustling energy of China’s capital city, where ancient traditions and cutting-edge modernity coexist harmoniously.

The experience, filled with unforgettable landscapes, diverse cultures and the camaraderie of fellow travelers, is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that provides a deep, immersive glimpse into the varied heartlands of Eurasia, offering a living tapestry of history, nature and human connection.

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and  Gemini.