Little Square (Malé náměstí), Old Town, Prague

We drive across the international border from Austria into Czechia (the Czech Republic) and explore the historic district of the city of Prague, "Praha" to locals, mostly on foot. Getting off the metro at Náměstí Republiky subway station, we stroll across Prašná brána (Powder Tower) and Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem (Church of Our Lady before Týn) to Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square) where we observe the legendary Pražský orloj (Prague Astronomical Clock). We continue on to Jilská, Karlova and Husova streets before returning to Staroměstské náměstí for lunch and spend some idyllic time watching the enormous crowds of tourists. After lunch, we walk up to Pamětní deska velitelství sovětské armády (Commemorative plaque of the headquarters of the Soviet Army) and stroll along Smetanovo nábřeží road next to the Vltava river which we subsequently cross over the richly decorated Charles Bridge. We reach Vyhlídka Na Opyši which is an elevated observation deck offering outstanding views of the beautiful city.

Prague, the captivating capital and largest city of the Czech Republic, is brimming with history, architectural marvels and a vibrant culture, earning it the nickname "the City of a Hundred Spires" - a number probably accurate in the 19th century although the current estimate has increased to around a thousand. Here is a map of our route through Prague.

The 20th century brought both triumph and turmoil for the Czech Republic. Following World War I, the Czechs and Slovaks joined forces to form Czechoslovakia, a democratic nation in Central Europe. However, this democracy was short-lived. After World War II, the country fell under communist rule, which was challenged by the Prague Spring in 1968. Though crushed by Soviet forces, the yearning for freedom continued. In 1989, the Velvet Revolution peacefully dismantled communism, paving the way for Czechoslovakia's separation into the Czech Republic and Slovakia in 1993. Since then, the Czech Republic has embraced democracy and a market economy, joining NATO and the European Union, solidifying its place on the world stage.

"Czechia" is another name for the Czech Republic. It's a shorter, informal name that the Czech government itself uses and is increasingly recognized by international organizations. While "Czech Republic" remains the official full name, "Czechia" is a perfectly acceptable way to refer to the country.

Our hotel in Prague is in Florenc. We arrive at the front desk and wait our turn patiently as the two ladies at the front desk heroically handle a bus full of tourists who arrived just before us. With great composure, they manage to hand out keys and oversee bellboys as literally a hundred rooms are assigned and a mountain of luggage taken care of.

Later, in the quiet of midnight, I step out to get a feel Prague at night the best I can. The gentleman at the front desk is listening at a low volume to a wonderful rock number in Czech. I strike up a conversation and we talk at length about rock 'n' roll, the economy and socio-political state of the country of Czechia. We become friends and exchange phone numbers and promise to look each other up later. In the meanwhile, I also become a great fan of the rock band Kabát - a true Czech rock legend. Kabát's Burlaci is a song that will stay with me the rest of my life. 

It is time to hit the tourist track in the morning. We walk down Sokolovská crossing Obchodní pasáž and then under the Wilsonova flyover to a currency exchange shop on Na Poříčí to pick up some Czech crowns called "koruna".

Sokolovská

Obchodní pasáž Florenc

Currency Exchange shop on Na Poříčí

The public transit route from Florenc to Náměstí Republiky offers a convenient and efficient way to travel between these two key locations. Florenc serves as one of Prague's major transportation hubs, with its central bus station and metro interchange connecting various parts of the city and beyond. Náměstí Republiky is situated near our destination of the historic heart of Prague.

To travel from Florenc to Náměstí Republiky, the most common and efficient method is to take the Prague Metro, specifically Line B (Yellow Line) which conveniently connects Florenc and Náměstí Republiky directly. Passengers departing from Florenc access Line B by following the signs within the metro station to locate the platform for trains heading in the direction of Zličín. Once aboard the train, Náměstí Republiky station is only one stop away from Florenc. The journey typically takes just a few minutes.

Tickets from vending machines can purchased with validity of 30 or 90 minutes of unlimited transfers between any mode of public transport including metro, trams, buses and even Lanová dráha na Petřín (the Petřín funicular) that connects Malá Strana district with the top of Petřín Hill from 1891 which makes it one of the oldest operational funiculars in Europe.

Prague Public Transit Ticket Vending Machine at Florenc

Upon climbing out of Náměstí Republiky metro station, we find ourselves in close proximity to various landmarks and attractions, including the Municipal House, Powder Tower and the bustling shopping street of Na Příkopě. Additionally, the station's central location provides easy access to other parts of Prague's city center, making it an ideal starting point for further exploration of the Czech capital.

Republic Square (Náměstí Republiky)

We embark on a delightful stroll from Náměstí Republiky to Old Town Square - a fascinating journey through the heart of the city, weaving through historic landmarks on charming cobblestone streets.

The international folk festival "Pražský jarmark" (Prague Fair) is on and we see Serbian and Ukrainian folk dancers in front of the Obecní Dům concert hall walking to their performance venue of Ovocný trh (Fruit Market). Pražský jarmark is a traditional folk festival held annually in Prague's historic center and features a wide variety of traditional Czech and international food, music, and dance. The ancient annual event has been held since the 10th century, and is one of the oldest and largest folk festivals in Europe. It typically features over 100 stalls selling traditional Czech and international food, drinks and souvenirs. There are also a number of live music and dance performances, as well as traditional folk demonstrations.

Pražský jarmark (Prague Fair) folk festival participants at Obecní Dům, Náměstí Republiky

We walk towards the Prašná brána (Powder Tower) named so in the 17th century as it was used to store gunpowder. It is an imposing Gothic structure erected in 1475 guarding the entrance to Prague's medieval Old Town, separating it from New town. The Prašná brána offers visitors a chance to climb to the top for panoramic views of the city.

Prašná brána tower gate and Obecní Dům concert hall (composite)

Prague, despite its undeniable charm, faces challenges with overtourism. Since the fall of communism, tourist numbers have skyrocketed. The city, with its concentrated historical center barely one square mile in size, feels the strain more acutely compared to larger European capitals. Smaller than even Fes el Bali, the historic center can be overcrowded, leading to noise, increased cost of living and a feeling of the city catering more to tourists than locals. Rents are driven up due to a rise in short-term rentals like Airbnb. Prague's historical center wasn't built for such large crowds. Public transportation and popular landmarks experience congestion. The city, however, is exploring solutions like spreading tourist attractions to other areas, implementing tourist taxes and restricting short-term rentals in certain districts.

Passing through the Powder Tower, with its intricate architecture and rich history, our route leads along Celetná Street, a picturesque thoroughfare lined with elegant buildings and quaint shops. Along the way, visitors can admire the stunning facades adorned with intricate details, reflecting Prague's rich architectural heritage.

Celetná street

A snake charmer on Celetná street is making money by letting tourists take pictures with his gigantic python wrapped around them. While snapping a photo with a python on Celetná street might seem like a fun souvenir opportunity that we did avail of, it's important to be aware of the ethical and legal implications. Prague has a history of animal exploitation in its tourist attractions, and these pythons are likely not well cared for.

Photo with a python on Celetná street

The stress of constant handling and exposure to crowds can be detrimental to their health. Additionally, city officials have cracked down on this practice in the past, so you might encounter police intervention. There are plenty of fantastic ways to capture memories in Prague that don't involve animal exploitation. Consider taking a photo with the Astronomical Clock or exploring the charming side streets for unique shops and cafes.

Continuing onward, the walk brings us to the majestic Church of Our Lady before Týn (Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem), its soaring spires dominating the skyline with their Gothic splendor.

Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem, Staroměstské náměstí, Praha, Czechia (composite)

The church's striking silhouette provides a dramatic backdrop as our journey unfolds, offering a glimpse into Prague's storied past and architectural grandeur.

Church of Our Lady before Týn (Chrám Matky Boží před Týnem)

The Church of Our Lady before Týn was built in the 14th century, and is a beautiful example of Gothic architecture. The church is home to a number of important works of art, including a painting of the Virgin Mary by the Czech painter Petr Brandl.

Church of Our Lady before Týn, Old Town Square

We arrive at the captivating Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí), a bustling plaza steeped in history and charm. It is a historic and lively square that is surrounded by many important buildings, including the 14th-century Old Town Hall which is home to the famous Astronomical Clock, the Church of Our Lady before Týn, St. Nicholas' Church, Golz-Kinský Palace which is an 18th century Rococo-style mansion now home to the National Gallery, the 14th-century Gothic Stone Bell House and the 20th-century Jan Hus Monument sculpture commemorating Czech religious reformer Jan Hus.

Old Town Hall

St. Nicholas' Church

Jan Hus Monument sculpture

Golz-Kinsky Palace / National Gallery

Prague Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí) panorama

The iconic Prague Astronomical Clock (Pražský orloj) takes center stage here, mesmerizing onlookers with its intricate design and hourly spectacle. Crowds gather to witness the clock's enchanting performance accompanied by the melodious chime of its bells adding to the magical ambiance of the square.

The 14th-century astronomical clock (Pražský orloj)

The Prague's Pražský astronomical clock is a marvel of medieval engineering. Installed in 1410, it is the third-oldest astronomical clock globally and holds the distinction of being the oldest one still in operation. This clock boasts multiple functions: it displays the time (including astronomical positions of the Sun and Moon), phases of the Moon, and even depicts a procession of the Twelve Apostles every hour.

The Old Town Hall is another important building located at the Old Town Square. The astronomical clock is actually installed on its front wall on the right side.

Old Town Hall

The town hall was built in the 14th century, and was originally used as a seat of government for the city of Prague. We are not able to find details of the inscription on the town hall ("|PRAGA-CADVT:REONH

QVI DEDIT

HAEC VETERI TVRRITA INSIGNIA PRAGAE OMNA VENTYRAL SORTIS AMICA DETAT MOLE SVAVT CELSAE TRANSCENDUNT MOENIA TURRES SIC FAMAM SUPERAS

Martinus Culhen MDCXIV

OMNIA TVRRICERAT CONCEDVINT OPPATIA OF PRACAL NATVIRA HEPO OVIDOMID IN ORSE IV HIC CONVS ACRE VERVA BONUS AER VINDA SADIS ADVISEMET PROCES INCENOSYS ACER HIE CAESAR PROCZKEOVE THENISOVE NEVEROVE SORCHES HIC ALES SPRETIS ORENS IN VINC SAA EST Julines Scaliger E") ???

If you know something about this please let us know!

Inscription on the Old Town Hall of Prague

Google Lens attempt to translate inscription on the Old Town Hall of Prague

The town hall is now a museum and home to a number of exhibits on the history of Prague.

We walk to the "Little Square" (Malé náměstí) which is next to the main Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí).

Malé náměstí (Little Square)

Malé náměstí is a small, triangular square and home to a number of cafes and restaurants, making it a great place to relax and enjoy a meal. The square is also a great place to people-watch, as it is always bustling with activity.

Malé náměstí (Little Square)

Malé náměstí is indeed one of the smallest squares in Prague, but also one of the most charming, with its cobbled streets, colorful buildings, and historic atmosphere.

Malé náměstí (Little Square)

From Malé náměstí, we walk along the enchanting streets of Jilská, Karlova and Husova where medieval architecture and hidden gems await around every corner. A signboard written with humor in front of the Fat Cat Cafe on Karlova street catches our eye!

Husband Day Care on Karlova Street

These charming cobblestone lanes of Old Town Prague offer a glimpse into the city's medieval past, with picturesque buildings, quaint courtyards and inviting cafes lining the way.

Karlova street

Karlova street

Karlova street

Husova and Karlova Street intersection

Husova and Karlova Street intersection

By this time we are hot, tired and hungry. We turn around on Karlova street and head back towards the Little Square and Old Town square to get a bite to eat and a sip to drink. The Old Town of Prague is very crowded with tourists, indeed!

Husova street

Karlova street towards Jilská street

Jilská street

Jilská street

Jilská street

Jilská street

Mannequin in traditional Czech attire Staromáček Restaurant at Jilská and Karlova streets intersection (map)

Back at the Old Town Square, we sit back and relax for a while watching the midday crowds of tourists flow by.

Old Town Square (Staroměstské náměstí)

Eventually we get up and resume our walk heading towards the Commemorative plaque of the headquarters of the Soviet Army (Pamětní deska velitelství sovětské armády), a historic plaque along the Vltava river, commemorating the Soviet Army's headquarters during World War II. Arriving at the plaque, we cannot but take a moment to reflect on the area's rich history and significance during a pivotal moment in Prague's past. The plaque serves as a poignant reminder of the city's resilience and the sacrifices made during wartime.

Pamětní deska velitelství sovětské armády By Xth-Floor - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

The Karlovy Lázně tram stop is across from the Soviet Army HQ plaque on the famous Smetanovo nábřeží road which runs along the Vltava River.

Karlovy Lázně tram stop on Smetanovo nábřeží road

Strolling along Smetanovo nábřeží offers an immersive perspective on Prague. The Vltava River unfolds before us, its surface reflecting the city's grandeur. On the opposite bank, the majestic Prague Castle dominates the skyline, its spires and towers reaching for the sky. Looking downriver, the world-famous Charles Bridge creates a picturesque focal point, teeming with life.

View of Prague and Vltava River from Karlovy Lázně tram stop on Smetanovo nábřeží road

Between the bridges, historic buildings adorned with intricate details line the riverbank, each one whispering tales of Prague's rich past.  The views encompass not just landmarks but the vibrant energy of the city, with street performers, bustling cafes, and boats gliding serenely on the water.

View of Prague and Vltava River from Karlovy Lázně tram stop on Smetanovo nábřeží road

The Vltava river slices through the heart of Prague, serving as the city's vibrant artery. Its waters wind gracefully past the imposing Prague Castle perched on a hilltop and the colorful Baroque buildings lining the charming Old Town Square.

View of Prague and Vltava River from Karlovy Lázně tram stop on Smetanovo nábřeží road

Charles Bridge, a majestic stone bridge adorned with statues, stretches across the Vltava, connecting the bustling Mala Strana district to the historic core. For those with the time in hand, a cruise along the river offers breathtaking views of Prague's architectural gems, making the Vltava an integral part of the city's unforgettable character.

View of Prague and Vltava River from Karlovy Lázně tram stop on Smetanovo nábřeží road (panorama)

Just south of the Soviet Army HQ plaque on Smetanovo nábřeží road, standing proudly along the Vltava River is Kranner's Fountain (Krannerova kašna) - a neo-gothic monument honoring Emperor Francis I of Austria.

Kranner's Fountain (Krannerova kašna)

Built in the 1850s, it was once Prague's largest structure. The fountain boasts a multi-tiered design adorned with allegorical statues. Sculpted by Josef Max, these figures represent various virtues and regions of Bohemia. At the center, a powerful statue of the emperor on horseback rests beneath a grand canopy. With its intricate details and historical significance, Kranner's Fountain remains an attractive landmark in Prague.

Continuing to the last stop on our romantic journey in Prague, we walk across the river to the picturesque viewpoint at Vyhlídka Na Opyši. As we ascend the gentle slopes, we are greeted by sweeping panoramas of Prague's skyline, with the majestic Vltava winding gracefully through the city below.

Prague view from Vyhlídka Na Opyši scenic viewpoint (panorama)

Vyhlídka Na Opyši scenic overview offers a serene retreat from the bustling city streets, providing an ideal spot for basking in the beauty of Prague's skyline as the sun sets, casting a warm glow over the historic buildings and shimmering river below. With spectacular Praha spread out before us, bathed in the soft light of dusk, we revel in the magic of the unforgettable moment in one of Europe's most enchanting cities. All of Prague's nicknames, including "the Golden City", "the Mother of Cities" and "the Heart of Europe", are well deserved!

In summary, Prague's charm is a delightful blend of history, architecture, and vibrant atmosphere. Imagine strolling through a city that's like a 3D textbook of architecture. From Romanesque gems to whimsical Art Nouveau buildings, Prague's streets are a feast for the eyes. Breathtaking views abound  from the Charles Bridge or the Prague Castle lookout.

History buffs are spoilt for choice. Prague Castle, the largest ancient castle complex in the world, is just the tip of the iceberg. The city's past whispers from every corner,  be it the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square or the remnants of the city walls.

Yet, Prague isn't a dusty museum. Affordable prices and a welcoming atmosphere make it a great solo destination too.  Lively cafes line the squares, inviting you to linger over a traditional Czech beer and soak in the sights and sounds. Whether you're seeking historical immersion, architectural grandeur, or a charming, walkable city, Prague offers something for everyone.

In our next photo-story on Bratislava, we cross the international border from Czechia into Slovakia to explore the city of Bratislava 334 km away along the E65 motorway.

Prague to Bratislava E65 Motorway

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and Gemini.