Aliens at Nevada farm with bales of hay: Alien Cowpoke Gas Station in Rachel, Nevada (gateway to Area-51), Extraterrestrial Highway

Hello again, fellow wanderers! It’s us, the Vagabond Couple, back with another chapter of our epic 9,000-mile road trip across the USA and Mexico. We continue the longest day of driving from Zion to edge of Extra-Terrestrial (E.T.) Highway via Las Vegas and Hoover Dam | into the Mojave Desert deeper into the heart of Nevada’s Extra-Terrestrial Highway, a place where the line between reality and myth blurs and then, via some of the most outlandish and surreal #weirdnevada Desert Art and Sculpture, straight into the otherworldly landscapes of Death Valley, California. From alien-themed pit stops to ghost towns, desert art installations and below sea-level, the hottest place on Earth, this day was a wild ride through some of the most surreal and fascinating corners of the American Southwest. So buckle up, because this episode is packed with strange beauty, quirky history and a whole lot of desert magic.

The Extra-Terrestrial Highway: Nevada State Route 375

We started our day early, leaving behind the glitzy strip of Las Vegas and pretty Lake Mead & Hoover Dam, heading north on US-93 toward the Extra-Terrestrial Highway (Nevada State Route 375). The SR-375 stretch of road, officially designated as the Extraterrestrial Highway in 1996, is one of the most remote and mysterious drives in the country. It’s also the gateway to Area 51, the top-secret U.S. Air Force base that has fueled countless conspiracy theories and alien legends.

Extraterrestrial Highway: East Entrance

In the 1990s, the U.S. government officially acknowledged the existence of Area 51, sparking increased public interest in the area. Nevada State Route 375 was designated the Extraterrestrial Highway in 1996, further cementing the region's connection to UFO culture. As we reached SR-375, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement. The highway cuts through the vast, open expanse of the great Mojave Desert, with its rugged rock formations, Joshua trees and endless sky.

Extraterrestrial Highway stretches out in the great Mojave desert towards Tonopah

The Extraterrestrial Highway is a landscape that feels both timeless and otherworldly and it’s easy to see why this area has become synonymous with UFO sightings and extraterrestrial lore.

E.T. Fresh Jerky: A Quirky Welcome

E.T. Fresh Jerky

Our first stop was E.T. Fresh Jerky, a quirky little store located at the eastern beginning of Nevada's Extraterrestrial Highway (State Route 375) where it forks left off northbound US-93. There are crashed UFOs all around this fascinating place!

E.T. Fresh Jerky

E.T. Fresh Jerky is a must-visit for anyone traveling this route, with its alien-themed decor, wide selection of jerky (including some truly out-of-this-world flavors) and friendly, welcoming vibe. There is sufficient warning signage about Area 51 and aliens around the entrance.

E.T. Fresh Jerky

E.T. Fresh Jerky has become an iconic stop for travelers exploring the mysterious and UFO-themed region near Area 51.

E.T. Fresh Jerky

Established in the early 2000s, this outlandish roadside shop capitalized on the area's extraterrestrial lore, offering a unique blend of homemade jerky, alien-themed souvenirs and a welcoming atmosphere for UFO enthusiasts and curious road-trippers like us. There's even an active UFO Alien Activity area!

E.T. Fresh Jerky

Over the years, E.T. Fresh Jerky has grown into a cultural landmark, embodying the spirit of the Extraterrestrial Highway and its connection to the unknown. Its legacy lies not only in its delicious jerky but also in its role as a gathering place for those fascinated by the mysteries of the cosmos, making it a must-visit destination for anyone venturing into this otherworldly part of Nevada. Even the restroom has a UFO on its roof and a Alien Zone warning on the door!

E.T. Fresh Jerky

We stocked up on snacks (because road trips require snacks) and chatted with the staff, who shared some local legends and tips for exploring the area.

Alien Research Center: A Portal to the Unknown

Next up was the Alien Research Center, a small but fascinating museum dedicated to all things extraterrestrial. Situated near the eastern beginning of Nevada's Extraterrestrial Highway (State Route 375), The Alien Research Center is a striking and iconic landmark that has captivated visitors since its opening in the early 2000s. Known for its massive, futuristic alien statue standing guard outside, the center was designed to tap into the fascination surrounding Area 51 and the region's rich UFO folklore.

Alien Research Center

Originally conceived as a gift shop and tourist attraction, it quickly became a hub for extraterrestrial enthusiasts, offering everything from alien-themed merchandise to informational exhibits about UFO sightings and government conspiracy theories. Though the center has undergone changes in ownership and purpose over the years, its legacy endures as a symbol of the mystery and intrigue that define the Extraterrestrial Highway.

Alien Research Center

The center is filled with exhibits on UFO sightings, Area 51 and the history of alien lore in the American Southwest. We spent some time browsing the displays, which included everything from declassified government documents to alien autopsy photos (spoiler: they’re fake, but still creepy). The center also has a gift shop where you can stock up on alien-themed souvenirs, from t-shirts to coffee mugs to glow-in-the-dark alien figurines. It’s a fun, kitschy stop that adds to the otherworldly vibe of the E.T. Highway.

Rachel, Nevada: X-Files featured Gateway to Area 51

From the Alien Research Center, we continued down the highway to the tiny town of Rachel, population: around 50. Rachel, Nevada was established in the 1970s as a small mining community. Over time, the town became associated with UFO sightings and conspiracy theories due to its proximity to Area 51.

Rachel plays a significant role in the X-Files universe, particularly in the context of the show's overarching mythology involving extraterrestrials and government conspiracies. The town is located near Area 51, the highly classified U.S. Air Force facility that has long been associated with UFO lore and secret military projects. In The X-Files, Rachel is often depicted as a remote and mysterious place, serving as a backdrop for episodes that delve into alien abductions, government cover-ups and unexplained phenomena.

Rachel, Nevada: Gateway to Area 51

One notable X-Files episode is Dreamland (Season 6, Episodes 4 and 5), where Rachel and its proximity to Area 51 are central to the storyline. In this two-part episode, Mulder and Scully encounter strange occurrences linked to the secretive activities at the base, including body-swapping and time distortion. The town's real-life connection to Area 51 and its portrayal in The X-Files have cemented its place in pop culture as a symbol of the unknown and the government's alleged involvement with extraterrestrial life. Rachel has also become a destination for UFO enthusiasts and fans of the show, who visit the area to explore its mysteries and connections to the series.

Extraterrestrial Highway sign at Rachel, Nevada: Gateway to Area 51

Rachel is therefore known as the gateway to Area 51 and it’s a place steeped in alien lore and conspiracy theories. The town’s most famous landmarks are the Alien Cowpoke Gas Station and the Little A’Le’Inn, a motel and restaurant that has become a pilgrimage site for UFO enthusiasts.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station and General Store

At the outskirts of the town of Rachel is the Alien Cowpoke Gas Station and General Store, another quirky stop on the E.T. Highway. The store is filled with alien-themed souvenirs and the staff are always happy to share stories about the area’s history and legends. We filled up Shehzadi’s tank (because you never know when you’ll find the next gas station in the desert) and picked up a few more alien-themed goodies.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, located at Rachel, Nevada along the Extraterrestrial Highway (Nevada State Route 375), is a gas station, general store and a monument to legends of alien abduction of cows and cattle mutilation. This gas station has become a popular stop for travelers like us - UFO enthusiasts and fans of The X-Files due to its proximity to Area 51 and its connection to extraterrestrial lore.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Cowpoke Gas Station has a relatively modest history, tied closely to the development of Rachel, Nevada and the growing interest in UFOs and Area 51. It was built to serve the needs of locals and travelers passing through the remote area. It became a critical stop for fuel, food and supplies in an otherwise isolated region.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Cowpoke Gas Station capitalized on the newfound fame of Rachel and Area-51 in the 1990s, becoming a hub for tourists, UFO enthusiasts and media crews visiting the area. It also became a popular stop for fans of The X-Files, as Rachel and the surrounding area were featured in the show.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Alien Cowpoke Gas Station & General Store has had several owners over the years, often locals or entrepreneurs who recognized the potential of catering to the growing tourist traffic. In recent years, the gas station has been owned and operated by individuals who embrace the extraterrestrial theme, selling UFO-themed merchandise, souvenirs and providing information about local UFO sightings and Area 51.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Cowpoke Gas Station remains a key landmark on the Extraterrestrial Highway. It continues to serve as a pit stop for travelers like us and a gathering place for those interested in UFOs and the mysteries of Area 51. The station has become part of the broader cultural phenomenon surrounding Rachel, Nevada and its association with extraterrestrial lore.

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station, Extraterrestrial Highway

The Cowpoke Gas Station has been featured in various documentaries, TV shows and media coverage related to Area 51 and UFOs. Its quirky, remote location and connection to the unknown have made it a symbol of the enduring fascination with extraterrestrial life and government secrecy. If you’re ever traveling the Extraterrestrial Highway, the Cowpoke Gas Station is a must-visit spot for a taste of the unique culture and history of Rachel, Nevada!

Alien Cowpoke Gas Station

In the blistering heat of Nevada's Mojave desert in July, sun-facing credit card readers at the pump do not work and a taped notice saying so was posted on the card readers on the sunny side. We had to use the pump away from the blazing sun, i.e. facing the general store.

Little A’Le’Inn

We stopped at the Little A’Le’Inn for lunch. Earthlings are welcome here too and it was an experience we’ll never forget!

Little A'Le'Inn

The Little A'Le'Inn (pronounced "Little Alien") is a iconic roadside motel, restaurant and gathering spot located in Rachel, Nevada, along the Extraterrestrial Highway (Nevada State Route 375). It is one of the most famous landmarks in the area, known for its connection to UFO culture, its proximity to Area 51 and its role as a hub for travelers like us, UFO enthusiasts and fans of the unknown.

Little A'Le'Inn

The Little A'Le'Inn has a fascinating history that also reflects the growth of Rachel, Nevada and the rise of UFO tourism in the region. It was originally a modest motel and restaurant designed to serve the needs of locals and travelers passing through the remote area. In the 1990s, when public interest in Area 51 and UFOs surged and Nevada State Route 375 was officially designated the Extraterrestrial Highway in 1996, Rachel and the surrounding area became quite popular. The Little A'Le'Inn embraced its connection to UFO culture, rebranding itself as a destination for UFO enthusiasts, tourists and media crews. The name "Little A'Le'Inn" is a playful nod to its extraterrestrial theme.

Little A'Le'Inn

The establishment has had several owners over the years, many of whom have been locals or entrepreneurs who recognized the potential of catering to the growing tourist traffic. One of the most notable owners was Pat Travis, who, along with her husband Joe, operated the Little A'Le'Inn for many years. Under their ownership, the inn became a central gathering place for UFO enthusiasts and a symbol of the quirky, offbeat culture of Rachel.

Little A'Le'Inn

As of recent years, the Little A'Le'Inn has continued to be owned and operated by individuals who maintain its extraterrestrial theme and welcoming atmosphere.

Little A'Le'Inn

The Little A'Le'Inn remains a popular destination for travelers exploring the Extraterrestrial Highway. It offers motel rooms, a restaurant serving classic American fare and a gift shop filled with UFO-themed merchandise and souvenirs.

Little A'Le'Inn

The inn also serves as a community hub, hosting events and gatherings for UFO enthusiasts and providing information about local UFO sightings and Area 51.

Little A'Le'Inn

The Little A'Le'Inn has been featured in numerous documentaries, TV shows and films related to UFOs and Area 51. Its unique charm and connection to the mysteries of the unknown have made it a beloved landmark for fans of extraterrestrial lore.

Little A'Le'Inn

If you’re traveling the Extraterrestrial Highway, the Little A'Le'Inn is a must-visit spot. Whether you’re a UFO enthusiast, a fan of The X-Files, or simply curious about the mysteries of Area 51, the inn offers a one-of-a-kind experience in the heart of Nevada’s UFO country. Don’t forget to try their famous Alien Burger and Out-of-This-World Chili before picking up some souvenirs to commemorate your visit!

Salt Flats off Extraterrestrial Highway: A Surreal Landscape

As we continued down the E.T. Highway, we passed the the iconic Salt Flats off the Extra-Terrestrial Highway - a vast, white expanse of dried-up lake bed that looks like something out of a sci-fi movie. The flats shimmering in the distance off the highway are a reminder of the area’s geological history and they’re a popular spot for photography and off-roading.

Also here near the Salt Flat along the Extraterrestrial Highway in Nevada, Railroad Valley Farms is embarking on an innovative and sustainable agricultural project with its Off-Grid Solar Water Pump. This pioneering initiative leverages cutting-edge solar technology to provide a reliable and eco-friendly water supply for farming in a remote and arid region. The unique location, adjacent to the vast salt flat and under the open skies of the Extraterrestrial Highway, adds a sense of wonder and aligns with the farm's commitment to harnessing renewable energy in harmony with the natural landscape.

We stopped for a few photos, marveling at the stark beauty of the landscape.

The Western End of Extraterrestrial Highway: Warm Springs, Nevada

We finally reach the other (western) end of Extraterrestrial Highway where it intersects with U.S. Route 6 near Warm Springs, Nevada. This remote junction, surrounded by vast desert landscapes and rugged mountain ranges, marks the transition from the quirky allure of the Extraterrestrial Highway, known for its association with Area 51 and UFO lore, to the more utilitarian Route 6, one of the oldest transcontinental highways in the United States.

The area is characterized by its stark beauty, with wide-open skies, sparse vegetation and a sense of isolation that evokes a feeling of being on the edge of civilization. Travelers passing through this intersection are often struck by the contrast between the highway's extraterrestrial mystique and the quiet, unassuming nature of the surrounding terrain. It’s a place where the intrigue of the unknown meets the simplicity of the American West, offering a unique blend of adventure and solitude.

Tonopah, Nevada: A Town with a Rich History

After a quick drive west on Route 6, our next stop was the town of Tonopah, a historic mining town with a rich history and a quirky charm. Tonopah was once one of the richest silver mining towns in the country and its historic downtown is filled with beautifully preserved buildings from the early 20th century.

It is at Tonopah that U.S. Route 6 meets U.S. Route 95, a historic and strategic crossroads in the heart of Nevada's high desert. At this junction, Route 6, one of the nation's oldest transcontinental highways, meets Route 95, a major north-south corridor connecting Nevada's bustling cities to its quieter rural communities. The meeting point is marked by a sense of timelessness, with the surrounding terrain of arid plains and rolling hills offering a stark yet beautiful backdrop. For travelers, this intersection represents both a practical stopping point and a gateway to exploration, providing access to Tonopah's historic sites, such as the Tonopah Historic Mining Park, as well as serving as a launching pad for adventures for us into the nearby ghost towns, natural hot springs and dark-sky preserves. It’s a place where history, geography and the spirit of the open road converge.

We stopped at the Tonopah Historic Mining Park, where we learned about the town’s mining history and explored the old mine shafts and equipment.

Goldfield: A Historic Mining Town with a Creative Twist

From Tonopah, we headed to the town of Goldfield, a once-thriving gold rush mining town in Esmeralda County, Nevada. But Goldfield is far from abandoned - it’s home to the Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery, a quirky outdoor art installation featuring cars that have been transformed into works of art, as well as the Last Church of The International Car Forest which is forest of cars planted nose-down into the ground.

Goldfield itself is a fascinating place to explore. Once a thriving mining town with a population of over 20,000, it’s now a ghost town with a handful of residents and a lot of history. The town is filled with abandoned buildings, old mines and a sense of nostalgia that’s hard to put into words.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery: Support the Lunatic Fringe!

The Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery in Goldfield, Nevada, is a unique and colorful outdoor art installation that celebrates creativity and history.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Located in the heart of Goldfield, a once-booming mining town that has since become a quiet historic community, the gallery features a collection of "art cars" - vehicles transformed into moving sculptures by their owners.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

These cars are decorated with everything from shiny mosaics to quirky found objects, turning them into rolling pieces of art.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The gallery is a testament to the town's quirky spirit and its embrace of unconventional creativity, as well as the popular Weird Nevada hashtag #weirdnevada.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The project was started by artist and Goldfield resident Monte Goldberg, who wanted to bring life and art to the town's historic streets.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Goldberg, known for his love of repurposing and creating art from everyday objects, saw the potential in these art cars to attract visitors and celebrate individuality.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The cars were originally displayed in various locations, but they were later gathered and relocated to a central spot in Goldfield to create a permanent outdoor gallery.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

This move of the Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery was made to preserve the art and make it more accessible to tourists and locals alike.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery is a vibrant and eclectic collection of art cars, each one a unique masterpiece that reflects the creativity and personality of its creator.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

One of the main exhibits is the "Desert Rose" - a car covered in a mosaic of colorful tiles and glass, giving it the appearance of a blooming flower in the middle of the desert.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Another standout is the "Cosmic Cruiser" - a vehicle adorned with metallic shapes, LED lights and celestial motifs, making it look like a spaceship ready to take off.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The "Junk Yard Jewel" is another popular exhibit, featuring a car decorated with recycled materials like bottle caps, old tools and scrap metal (showcasing the artist's commitment to sustainability and innovation?)

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Yet another notable piece is the "Wild West Wagon" which pays homage to Goldfield's rich mining history with its cowboy-themed decorations, including horseshoes, lassos and miniature cacti.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The "Psychedelic Roadster" is a favorite among visitors, with its swirling, brightly painted patterns and retro 1960s vibe.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Each art car tells a story, whether it's about the artist's personal journey, a tribute to the town's history, or a whimsical take on modern life.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Together, these exhibits create a dynamic and ever-changing outdoor gallery that captures the imagination and brings a sense of wonder to the historic streets of Goldfield.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery not only adds a splash of color and fun to the town but also honors Goldfield's history as a place where people have always dared to be different.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Visitors to the Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery often describe their experience as delightfully quirky, surreal and unforgettable. The gallery, known for its eclectic collection of art cars and whimsical installations, evokes a range of reactions.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Many visitors are charmed by the playful and eccentric nature of the art cars, such as the giant roadrunner sculpture or the flying saucer-like creations. The sense of humor and creativity behind the pieces often leaves people smiling and laughing.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The sheer imagination and craftsmanship of the art cars and installations, many of which are created by artist Bob Wade (aka "Rocket Bob"), inspire admiration. Visitors frequently comment on the unique blend of folk art, pop culture and automotive design.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

The gallery's location in the historic, offbeat town of Goldfield adds to its charm. Visitors appreciate the nostalgic, old-West vibe of the town combined with the modern, eccentric art, creating a one-of-a-kind experience.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

First-time visitors like us are often surprised by the unexpected nature of the gallery. The art cars, which are both functional and artistic, spark curiosity and encourage exploration.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery: A computer keyboard sticking out of an art car

The colorful, larger-than-life installations make the gallery a favorite spot for photography. Visitors love capturing the unique art pieces against the backdrop of Nevada's desert landscape.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery

Those who enjoy unconventional art and roadside attractions find the Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery to be a hidden gem. It’s often described as a must-see for fans of Americana and quirky art.

Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery: A TV and artistic decorations on an art car

Overall, the gallery leaves a lasting impression, with many visitors praising its originality and the fun, lighthearted atmosphere it offers. It’s a testament to the creativity and eccentric spirit of its creator, Bob Wade and the enduring charm of Goldfield itself. The Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery is a must-see for anyone traveling through Nevada’s historic mining towns. And yes, as a sign posted on one of the fantastically decorated cars in the insane junkyard says, "Support the lunatic fringe!"

International Car Forest of the Last Church

International Car Forest of the Last Church

We next drive Shehzadi (our trusty Toyota Tundra) into one of the most surreal and offbeat art installations we’ve ever encountered so far: the International Car Forest of the Last Church also in Goldfield, Nevada.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

If you’ve ever wondered what it would look like if cars grew like trees in a desert forest, this is the place to find out.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

Buckle up, because this place is as weird and wonderful as it sounds.

What Is the International Car Forest?

Imagine a vast, open desert landscape dotted with cars - yes, cars - planted nose-down in the ground like some kind of automotive garden.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

That’s the International Car Forest of the Last Church.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

This outdoor art installation is the brainchild of two artists, Chad Sorg and Mark Rippie, who started the project in 2002.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

The idea was to create a space where art, nature and industrial relics could come together in a way that’s both thought-provoking and visually stunning.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

The Car Forest is located just outside the tiny town of Goldfield, Nevada, a former mining boomtown that’s now a ghost town with a population of around 200 people.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

It’s a place where the past and present collide and the Car Forest, along with the Goldfield Art Car Park Gallery (see above), is a perfect reflection of that.

The Art and Creations: A Desert Wonderland

Walking through the Car Forest feels like stepping into a post-apocalyptic art gallery.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

The cars, many of which are vintage models from the 1950s and 60s, are arranged in clusters and covered in graffiti, murals and other forms of street art.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

Some are painted in bright, bold colors, while others are left to rust and decay, blending seamlessly with the desert landscape.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

Here are a few of the standout creations we encountered:

The School Bus

One of the most iconic pieces in the Car Forest is an old yellow school bus that’s been turned into a canvas for graffiti artists.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

The bus is covered in vibrant colors and intricate designs and it’s a favorite spot for photos.

The Church Car

True to the name “Last Church,” one of the cars has been transformed into a makeshift chapel, complete with a cross on top.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

It’s a surreal and oddly spiritual sight, especially when set against the stark beauty of the desert.

The Upside-Down Cars

International Car Forest of the Last Church

Many of the cars are planted upside-down or at odd angles, creating a sense of disorientation and wonder. It’s like walking through a dream where the rules of gravity don’t apply.

The Graffiti Walls

International Car Forest of the Last Church

In addition to the cars, there are several walls and structures covered in graffiti and murals. The art is constantly changing, as new artists come and leave their mark.

Ownership and History

The Car Forest was started by Mark Rippie, a Goldfield local and Chad Sorg, an artist from Reno. Rippie owned the land and had the idea to create an art installation using old cars, while Sorg brought the artistic vision to life. Together, they transformed the desert into a living, evolving work of art.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

Over the years, the Car Forest has become a collaborative project, with artists and visitors from all over the world contributing to the ever-changing landscape.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

It’s a place where creativity knows no bounds and where the line between art and nature is beautifully blurred.

Ticketing and Entry Information

One of the best things about the Car Forest is that it’s completely free to visit! There’s no ticket booth, no admission fee and no official hours. It’s open to the public 24/7 and you’re free to explore at your own pace.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

That said, it’s important to be respectful of the art and the environment. The Car Forest is a labor of love for the artists and the community and it’s up to all of us to help preserve it for future generations.

International Car Forest of the Last Church

As we drove away from Goldfield with Shehzadi kicking up dust on the desert road, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of wonder. The Car Forest is a reminder that art can be found in the most unlikely places and that sometimes, the most beautiful things are the ones that defy explanation.

Beatty and Rhyolite: Ghost Towns with a Story

Our next stop was the town of Beatty, a small but charming town with a rich history. Beatty is home to the Beatty Airport, a small, abandoned airport that’s now a popular spot for urban exploration.

Today, Beatty is a ghost town from the gold rush period but it does have a working gas station and general store. We filled Shehzadi up at Beatty and headed to the next ghost town of Rhyolite, another once-thriving mining town that has since been reclaimed by the desert.

Rhyolite - A Ghost Town

Rhyolite is a well-known ghost town located in Nye County, Nevada, at the eastern edge of Death Valley. Its history is a classic tale of a boom-and-bust mining town, emblematic of the American West during the early 20th century.

Founding and Boom (1904–1907)

Rhyolite was founded in 1904 following the discovery of gold in the surrounding Bullfrog Hills. The town's name comes from the rhyolite rock in the area, which was mistakenly thought to contain gold. The discovery attracted thousands of prospectors, investors and entrepreneurs and the town grew rapidly. By 1907, Rhyolite had a population of around 4,000–5,000 people, making it one of the largest towns in southern Nevada at the time.

The town boasted modern amenities, including electricity, telephones, running water and a railroad connection. It had three railroads serving it, including the Las Vegas and Tonopah Railroad. Rhyolite also had a stock exchange, banks, schools, hospitals and even an opera house. The town's rapid growth was fueled by the optimism of the mining industry, with investors pouring money into the area.

Decline and Bust (1908–1920)

The decline of Rhyolite began as early as 1908. The financial panic of 1907 led to a collapse in investment and the mines began to yield less gold than expected. By 1910, the population had plummeted to fewer than 1,000 residents. The mines closed and the railroads stopped service. By 1920, Rhyolite was virtually abandoned, with only a handful of residents remaining.

Today, Rhyolite is a popular tourist destination and a stark reminder of the transient nature of mining towns. Several structures still stand, while others are in ruins.

The Crumbling Buildings of Rhyolite

Cook Bank Building

Cook Bank Building, Rhyolite, Nevada

One of the most iconic structures in Rhyolite, this three-story bank building was constructed in 1908. Its concrete and steel construction has allowed it to withstand the test of time, though it is now a hollow shell.

While the main bank building stands, other associated structures have largely collapsed.

Train Depot

Rhyolite Train Depot

Built in 1908 by the Las Vegas and Tonopah Railroad, the depot is one of the best-preserved buildings in Rhyolite. It features a distinctive Mission Revival architectural style.

Bottle House

Built in 1906 by Tom Kelly, this house was constructed using approximately 50,000 glass beer and medicine bottles. It has been partially restored and is a unique example of resourcefulness in the desert.

Overbury Building

Once a multi-purpose commercial building, only the crumbling walls and foundation remain.

Residents of Rhyolite and Lifestyle at Its Peak

At its peak, Rhyolite was a bustling community with a diverse population. Miners, businessmen, families and entertainers all called the town home. The lifestyle was a mix of hard work and frontier entertainment. Saloons, brothels and gambling halls were common, catering to the miners and transient workers. Families lived in modest homes and children attended the local school. The town had a sense of optimism and opportunity, with many hoping to strike it rich.

Despite its remote location, Rhyolite was relatively modern, with amenities that rivaled larger cities. Social events, such as dances and theater performances, were held at the opera house and the town had a sense of community.

Rhyolite Today

View of Rhyolite, Nevada looking south from Train Depot

Today, Rhyolite is a long-abandoned (by US standards) ghost town, with no permanent residents. The town is maintained by the Bureau of Land Management and is a popular stop for tourists exploring Death Valley and the surrounding area. The stark contrast between its past and present is striking. Where once there was a thriving community, now there are only ruins and the echoes of a bygone era. The quiet desert landscape stands in sharp contrast to the bustling, noisy town it once was.

Visitors to Rhyolite can explore the remnants of its past, imagining what life was like during its brief but vibrant heyday. The town serves as a poignant reminder of the fleeting nature of boomtowns and the dreams of those who sought fortune in the American West.

Goldwell Open Air Museum

Goldwell Open Air Museum

At the abandoned ghost town of Rhyolite, we just stumbled upon the strangest spot in Nevada's endless great Mojave desert so far - the Goldwell Open Air Museum. This place is like an art gallery, but instead of walls, it’s wide-open desert with some seriously weird and wonderful sculptures. Let us tell you all about it!

History of Goldwell Open Air Museum

Goldwell Open Air Museum

The Goldwell Open Air Museum started in 1984 when a Belgian artist named Albert Szukalski came to the desert and decided to create art inspired by the vast, empty landscape. He was part of a group of European artists who were drawn to the area’s surreal beauty.

Goldwell Open Air Museum

Over time, more artists added their work and now it’s a free, open-air museum that’s totally unique. It’s like a playground for your imagination, right in the middle of nowhere.

Goldwell Open Air Museum Art and Their Stories

Goldwell Open Air Museum

Here’s the lowdown on the wild creations we saw.

"The Last Supper" by Albert Szukalski

"The Last Supper" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This was the first piece here and it’s trippy! It’s a ghostly recreation of Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, but instead of painted figures, it’s life-sized plaster ghosts draped in fabric. Albert made these by covering live models in wet plaster, letting it harden and then removing the models.

"The Last Supper" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

The result? These eerie, flowing figures that look like they’re floating in the desert.

"The Last Supper" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

It’s haunting and beautiful and it makes you think about life, death and spirituality. It also reminds you of the ghostly sculptures along the shore of Lake Como at Italy's Vezio Castle (Castello di Vezio).

"Ghost Rider" by Albert Szukalski

"Ghost Rider" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Another one of Albert’s ghostly creations, this is a lone figure sitting on a bicycle. It’s like a phantom cyclist pedaling through the desert.

The story goes that Albert wanted to capture the idea of movement and stillness at the same time. It’s spooky but also kind of fun - like a desert mirage.

"Serving Ghost" by Albert Szukalski

"Serving Ghost" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This sculpture, featuring a ghostly artist with a palette, by Albert Szukalski feels like a self-portrait of the artist himself, even though it’s abstract and ethereal, like his other works.

"Serving Ghost" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

But, true to Szukalski’s style, it’s not a solid, realistic figure - it’s made of draped fabric-like plaster, giving it that same eerie, ghostly appearance as his "Last Supper" and "Ghost Rider" pieces. It’s like the artist is frozen in time, caught in the creative process, but also fading into the desert landscape.

"Serving Ghost" by Albert Szukalski, Goldwell Open Air Museum

What we loved about this piece is how it feels like a tribute to the act of creating art. It’s almost as if Szukalski is saying, “Art is eternal, even if the artist disappears.” It’s a powerful statement, especially out here in the middle of nowhere, where the desert seems to go on forever.

"Lady Desert: The Venus of Nevada" by Dr. Hugo Heyrman

"Lady Desert: The Venus of Nevada" by Dr. Hugo Heyrman, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This one’s a giant pink woman made of cinder blocks. She’s standing tall, looking far out over the endless Mojave desert and she’s huge. Hugo Heyrman, another Belgian artist, created her as a modern take on the classic Venus statue (Venus de Milo currently in Paris at the Louvre).

"Lady Desert: The Venus of Nevada" by Dr. Hugo Heyrman, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Lady Desert: The Venus of Nevada is bold, bright and totally unexpected in the middle of the desert. We loved how she stands out against the muted landscape.

"Icara" by Dre Peeters

"Icara" by Dre Peeters, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This is a massive, 25-foot-tall metal sculpture of a woman falling from the sky. It’s based on the Greek myth of Icarus, who flew too close to the sun.

"Icara" by Dre Peeters, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Dre Peeters, a Dutch artist, wanted to show the idea of ambition and failure. It’s dramatic and a little sad, but also really striking against the desert backdrop.

"Tribute to Shorty" by Fred Bervoets

"Tribute to Shorty" by Fred Bervoets, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This one’s a quirky monument dedicated to a local character named Shorty Harris, a famous prospector in the area. Fred Bervoets, a Belgian artist, created this playful tribute to the spirit of the Old West. It’s fun and full of the personality of Shorty Harris who was rather short and had to wear oversized clothes because it was difficult to obtain correct sized clothes in the middle of the desert.

"Tribute to Shorty" by Fred Bervoets, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Shorty Harris also seems to be credited for finding the first gold in Rhyolite, setting off the gold rush that once made Rhyolite a boomtown.

"Portone" by Amanda Phingbodhipakkiya

"Portone" by Amanda Phingbodhipakkiya, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This is one of the newer additions to the Goldwell Open Air Museum. "Portone" means "big gate" in Italian and the piece is made up of geometric rectangular shapes in a line, painted in bright, eye-catching colors like orange, blue and yellow. It is designed to look like a portal or gateway.

"Portone" by Amanda Phingbodhipakkiya, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Amanda Phingbodhipakkiya created "Portone" as part of her residency at the Goldwell Open Air Museum and it’s clear that she was inspired by the desert’s vastness and sense of isolation and maybe a desire to escape to somewhere else!

"Diptown" by Irina & Stanislav Schminke

"Diptown" by Irina & Stanislav Schminke, Goldwell Open Air Museum

This appears as a bizarre ghost city that sunk into the great Mojave desert with just rooftops of houses now visible above the sand. There are mailboxes and street signs scattered around adding to the surreal. It turns out this is another very addition too the museum, called "Diptown" by the Russian artist duo Irina & Stanislav Schmink, whose intention was to evoke nostalgic for a place and time that never existed in real life.

"Diptown" by Irina & Stanislav Schminke, Goldwell Open Air Museum

Irina and Stanislav Schminke actually crowdfunded the whole thing and it even made an appearance at the 2022 Burning Man festival out in the Nevada desert. The roofs, left sticking out of the desert, are just another weird, artistic feature of the landscape. It’s like the desert is reclaiming them and they fit right in with the museum’s vibe.

Why we cannot forget the Goldwell Open Air Museum

The Goldwell Open Air Museum is one of those places that makes you stop and think. It’s art, but it’s also history, nature and a little bit of mystery all rolled into one. The sculptures are so different from each other, but they all feel connected by the desert. It’s like the artists were inspired by the emptiness and the silence and they created something that speaks to the soul.

If you’re ever near Death Valley or Rhyolite, you have to check this place out. It’s free, it’s open 24/7 and it’s one of the most unique art experiences we’ve ever had. Plus, it’s the perfect spot for some seriously cool photos. Trust us, you won’t regret it!

Area 51 Alien Center: Last Stop in Nevada

From Rhyolite, we drove on exciting unpaved desert roads to the Area 51 Alien Center on US-95 (Veteran’s Memorial Highway), passing the spooky and abandoned Beatty Airport. It is located in Amargosa Valley at the intersection of US-95 and NV-373 (Nevada State Route 373). It is a quirky roadside stop that’s become a must-visit for travelers exploring the weird and wonderful side of Nevada.

Area 51 Alien Center

The Amargosa Valley is part of the Mojave Desert, known for its stark, otherworldly beauty. The area is surrounded by rugged mountains, vast desert plains and unique geological formations. The valley itself is part of the Amargosa River Basin, an ancient river system that’s now mostly dry but plays a key role in the region’s ecology.

Area 51 Alien Center

The Area 51 Alien Center started as a gas station and convenience store catering to travelers on this remote but scenic stretch of US-95 through Amargosa Valley. Over time, it embraced its proximity to the infamous Area 51 top-secret military base located about 90 miles north, which has long been associated with UFOs, alien conspiracy theories and government secrecy. The Alien Center is all about embracing the extraterrestrial vibe.

Area 51 Alien Center

The Alien Center leaned into the extraterrestrial theme, transforming itself into a kitschy, alien-themed pit stop. It’s now a popular destination for road trippers like ourselves, alien enthusiasts and anyone looking for a fun, offbeat experience in the Nevada desert.

Area 51 Alien Center

From the green alien mascot to the UFO-shaped signage, the place is decked out in all things alien. It’s a great spot for photos and selfies.

Area 51 Alien Center

The store is packed with alien-themed souvenirs, from t-shirts and mugs to alien bobbleheads and Area 51 memorabilia. It’s a treasure trove for UFO enthusiasts.

Area 51 Alien Center

It’s still a functional gas station and convenience store, so you can fuel up your car and grab snacks or drinks for the road. They even serve alien-themed snacks and drinks, like “alien jerky” and “extraterrestrial energy drinks.”

Area 51 Alien Center

The Alien Center is a classic example of roadside Americana - a quirky, themed stop that adds character to a long desert drive. It’s part of the tradition of embracing local lore and turning it into a fun, interactive experience. For the small community of Amargosa Valley, the Alien Center is a key landmark and a way to connect with travelers from all over the world.

Area 51 Alien Center Restaurant Menu

The Area 51 Alien Center is a fun, kitschy stop that’s filled with alien-themed decor and souvenirs. We had dinner at the center’s restaurant, which serves up classic American fare with an alien twist.

Into Death Valley: The Hottest Place on Earth

After dinner, we head to Nevada's state border into California and Furnace Creek in Death Valley. Furnace Creek is located below sea level and it’s famously one of the hottest places on planet Earth. The area is steeped in Native American history and legends and we have been told it’s a place that feels both harsh and beautiful.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

As we drive along Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley, the Amargosa Valley unfolds before us like a vast, serene canvas, painted with the warm, golden hues of a desert sunset. The sky transforms into a breathtaking palette of colors - vivid oranges, deep reds and soft purples - that stretch endlessly across the horizon. The sun, a glowing orb, dips lower, casting long shadows over the arid landscape and illuminating the rugged beauty of the Amargosa Range to the east and the Funeral Mountains to the west.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

These distant peaks, with their jagged silhouettes, stand as silent sentinels, their slopes bathed in the fading light, creating a dramatic contrast against the deepening sky. The allure of Death Valley, just beyond the horizon, is palpable.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

Its mystique lies in its extremes - the hottest, driest and lowest place in North America - yet it is also a place of profound beauty and solitude. The valley beckons with its promise of otherworldly landscapes: vast salt flats, rolling sand dunes and twisted canyons carved by time and the elements.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

As the sun sinks lower, the air grows cooler and the stillness of the desert envelops us, heightening the sense of awe and wonder. The Amargosa Valley sunset is not just a visual spectacle; it’s an invitation to pause, reflect and feel the timeless pull of the wild, untamed beauty that lies ahead in Death Valley.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

We cross into California where NV-373 changes to California State Route 127 (CA-127). As we continue our journey onto California State Route 190 (CA-190) from the tiny Mojave Desert hamlet of Death Valley Junction, also known as Amargosa, towards Death Valley, the sunset takes on an even more dramatic and surreal quality as night falls.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

The road stretches ahead, a ribbon of asphalt cutting through the stark, otherworldly terrain. The Panamint Range rises in the distance, its peaks catching the last fiery rays of the sun, while the last shadows of the Amargosa Mountains stretch long and dark across the valley floor.

Mojave Desert Sunset at Amargosa Valley, Nevada State Route 373 (NV-373) towards Death Valley

As the final light of the day fades, the landscape seems to transform, revealing the raw, untamed beauty of Death Valley - a place where the earth itself feels alive, shaped by forces both ancient and immense. This sunset is not just an end to the day, but a gateway to the mysteries and wonders that await in the heart of the valley.

Sunset at Death Valley - California State Route 190 (CA-190), Death Valley

As we descend further into Death Valley on CA-190, the landscape becomes increasingly surreal and the signs of the valley's unique geography begin to appear. One of the most striking markers along the way is the "Elevation Sea Level" sign, a simple yet profound indicator of the dramatic elevation changes we have experienced. At this point, we have already left behind the higher elevations of the surrounding mountains and are now at the baseline of elevation - zero feet above sea level.

Elevation Sea Level (zero feet) sign, CA-190, Death Valley

The sign stands as a stark reminder of the valley’s extreme topography, as we are about to descend even further into the depths of the basin, where Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America at 282 feet below sea level, awaits. The area around the Sea Level sign is a place of quiet reflection. The vast, open expanse of the valley stretches out in all directions, framed by the towering Panamint Range to the west and the Amargosa Range to the east. This moment is a reminder of the incredible forces of nature that have shaped this land over millennia and the Sea Level sign serves as a gateway to the deeper mysteries of Death Valley, where the earth itself seems to defy expectations and inspire awe.

As we reach Furnace Creek in the heart of Death Valley, we encounter another striking marker: the "Elevation -190 Feet" sign near Furnace Creek signifying we are now 190 feet BELOW sea level! This iconic sign, often photographed by visitors, is a testament to the valley's extraordinary geography. Here, the road dips even lower and we find yourself descending into one of the most unique landscapes on Earth. The sign proudly declares your arrival into a realm where the ground beneath our feet is now below the level of the ocean, a surreal concept that underscores the valley's otherworldly nature.

Elevation -190 (minus 190 feet, 190 feet below sea level) sign, Furnace Creek, CA-190, Death Valley

It is just short of midnight when we roll into Furnace Creek to check into our lodging. It is still 118 degrees fahrenheit even at midnight! The area around Furnace Creek is a stark yet beautiful contrast of extremes. The air is clear, hot and dry, carrying with it a sense of timelessness and solitude. We are standing in one of the most extraordinary places on the planet - a place where the Earth’s secrets are laid bare and the beauty of desolation takes on a profound and haunting allure. And in the crystal clear sky above is a breathtaking tapestry of stars, we can even see the Milky Way in all its glory!

The Ranch at Death Valley, Furnace Creek

We check into The Ranch at Death Valley right before midnight after today's very long drive that started at Saint George in Utah and took us through Las Vegas, the Extraterrestrial Highway, the uniquely weird Mojave Desert art and sculpture of Nevada and into the Death Valley here in California. Finally the quiet stillness of Death Valley envelops us. The resort, nestled against the stark backdrop of the Panamint Range, offers a welcoming contrast to the vast, dark expanse of the desert. After hours of driving through the otherworldly landscapes of Death Valley, the sight of the Ranch’s lush greenery and cozy accommodations feels like a reward. Checking in at this hour is a serene and almost magical experience, as the quiet beauty of the desert night hints at the adventures that await with the sunrise.

Shehzadi is now showing 10,191 miles on her odometer, which means we have driven 3,796 miles from home in Hyattsville, Maryland right into the heart of Death Valley, California!

Shehzadi odometer 10,191 miles (3,796 miles from home)

Here is the complete dashcam video footage of the entire drive described above.

Tomorrow, we’ll explore Death Valley in all its rugged, otherworldly glory. Until then, keep exploring, keep dreaming and remember: the journey is just as important as the destination. 

Reference route map of The Vagabond Couple's 9,000-mile USA & Mexico overland roundtrip: Map-1 and Map-2.

- The Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi, always up for a little alien fun in the desert! 👽