Trans-America USA + Mexico Overland 9,000-mile 31-day Roadtrip | Part 8 | Journey Through Towering Cliffs and Canyons of Wonder at Zion National Park
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| Virgin River Canyon Walk, Zion National Park |
Hello again, fellow wanderers! It’s us, the Vagabond Couple, back with another chapter of our epic 9,000-mile road trip across the USA and Mexico. Our last last episode was Kanab - Hurricane - St. George, Utah | Stunning Sand Caves, Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park & Bryce Canyon National Park. Today’s adventure took us deep into the heart of Zion National Park, a place that’s been on our bucket list for years. From the towering cliffs of the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway to the serene beauty of the Virgin River Riverside Walk, and wading in the water of Virgin River towards the world-famous Narrows of Zion Canyon, this day was packed with jaw-dropping scenery, fascinating geology and a few unexpected surprises. So grab a cup of coffee (or tea, or whatever fuels your wanderlust) and let’s dive into the wonders of Zion.
Saint George to Zion: A Scenic Start
We started our day early, leaving our hotel in Saint George, Utah and hopping into Shehzadi (our trusty Toyota Tundra) for the short drive to Zion National Park. The route took us through Hurricane, a charming little town with a Wild West vibe that we’d grown fond of during our stay. As we approached the park, the landscape began to change, with the red rock cliffs of Zion rising in the distance like sentinels guarding a sacred land.
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| Zion National Park South Entrance |
We entered the park through the South Entrance on Zion-Mount Carmel Highway (Utah SR-9) and almost immediately, we were surrounded by towering sandstone walls and deep, narrow canyons. The road itself is an engineering marvel, winding through the park and offering stunning views at every turn. But the real highlight of the drive is the Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel, a 1.1-mile-long tunnel carved through solid rock in the 1920s. Driving through the tunnel feels like entering another world and when you emerge on the other side, you’re greeted by the breathtaking beauty of Zion’s east side.
Viewpoints Along the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway
We decided to drive all the way to the East Entrance of the park, stopping at every viewpoint along the way to soak in the scenery and then return all the way back, crossing the tunnel twice! Here’s a rundown of the highlights.
Canyon Overlook Trail
This short but steep hike takes you to one of the best views in the park. From the overlook, you can see the winding road below, the towering cliffs of Zion and the vast expanse of the canyon. The rock formations here are part of the Navajo Sandstone, which was formed over 180 million years ago by ancient sand dunes.
Checkerboard Mesa
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| Checkerboard Mesa |
The distinctive checkerboard pattern on Checkerboard Mesa in Zion National Park is a fascinating geological phenomenon caused by a combination of erosion and the unique structure of the Navajo Sandstone.
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| Checkerboard Mesa Information Board |
The horizontal lines in the pattern are formed by cross-bedding, a feature created by ancient sand dunes that were deposited and compressed over time. The vertical cracks, on the other hand, result from the expansion and contraction of the sandstone due to freeze-thaw cycles, where water seeps into the rock, freezes and expands, creating fractures.
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| Checkerboard Mesa |
Over millennia, these intersecting horizontal and vertical lines have formed the striking grid-like appearance that resembles a checkerboard. This iconic feature highlights the dynamic interplay of natural forces that have shaped the landscape of Zion National Park.
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| Checkerboard Mesa View Area Parking |
This iconic formation is named for the crisscrossing pattern of cracks on its surface, which resemble a checkerboard. The pattern was created by a combination of erosion and the expansion and contraction of the rock due to temperature changes.
East Temple
The East Temple is a massive sandstone monolith, part of the Navajo Sandstone layer, standing at an elevation of 7,708 feet and is one of the park's most recognizable landmarks. Its sheer cliffs and towering presence create a dramatic contrast against the surrounding red rock terrain and lush greenery of the Virgin River Valley.
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| East Temple, Zion National Park |
The East Temple, along with its counterpart, the West Temple, frames the entrance to Zion Canyon, offering breathtaking views for visitors.
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| East Temple, Zion National Park |
The Paiute people, who have lived in this area for thousands of years, consider the East Temple a sacred place, filled with stories of spirits and ancient beings.
The Towers of the Virgin
These towering rock formations are some of the most dramatic in the park. The Paiute believed that the towers were the homes of the gods and it’s easy to see why - they seem to touch the sky.
Watch: Zion National Park: South to East Gate Route 9 Zion-Mount Carmel Hwy / Zion-Mount Carmel Tunnel
Zion Canyon Scenic Drive: A Journey Through the Heart of the Park
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| Zion National Park East Entrance |
After reaching the East Entrance, we turned around and drove back through the tunnel to the Zion Canyon Visitor Center, where we parked Shehzadi and boarded the park-run Zion Canyon Line hop-on hop-off shuttle bus.
Private vehicles aren’t allowed on the Zion Canyon Scenic Drive, so the shuttle is the best way to explore this part of the park.
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| Zion Canyon Visitor Center right after South Entrance |
The shuttles make several stops along the way, each offering its own unique views and experiences.
Court of the Patriarchs
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| Court of the Patriarchs |
This viewpoint offers stunning views of three towering peaks named after biblical figures—Abraham, Isaac and Jacob. The rock formations here are part of the Kayenta Formation, which was formed by ancient rivers and lakes.
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| Court of the Patriarchs Visitor Information Board |
The Grotto
This stop is the starting point for several popular hikes, including the Angel’s Landing Trail. We didn’t have time for that hike today (it’s on the list for next time!), but we did take a moment to admire the towering cliffs and the peaceful grove of cottonwood trees.
Weeping Rock
This short hike takes you to a rock alcove where water seeps out of the sandstone, creating a “weeping” effect. The water is filtered through the rock over thousands of years and it’s some of the purest in the world.
Temple of Sinawava
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| Temple of Sinawava |
The final stop on the shuttle route, this area is the starting point for the Virgin River Riverside Walk, one of the most popular hikes in the park that takes you on the water of Virgin River into a towering canyon.
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| Temple of Sinawava |
ZION NARROWS: Virgin River Riverside Walk Through Paradise
The Virgin River is the lifeblood of Zion National Park, carving its way through the park's stunning sandstone cliffs and creating the iconic Zion Canyon over millions of years. Originating in the Markagunt Plateau, the river flows approximately 162 miles before joining the Colorado River. Its relentless force has sculpted the dramatic landscapes of Zion, including towering monoliths, narrow slot canyons and lush riparian habitats. The river's vibrant turquoise waters contrast beautifully with the red and white sandstone walls, offering visitors breathtaking views and opportunities for recreation, such as hiking the famous Narrows of Zion National Park. Beyond its scenic beauty, the Virgin River plays a vital ecological role, supporting diverse plant and animal life in an otherwise arid environment.
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| The Narrows - Riverside Walk |
The Narrows in Zion National Park is one of the most iconic and awe-inspiring hikes in the world, offering a unique adventure through the narrowest section of Zion Canyon. This hike takes visitors directly into the Virgin River, as they wade or swim through towering sandstone walls that rise up to 1,000 feet overhead, with the canyon sometimes narrowing to just 20 to 30 feet wide. The interplay of light and shadow on the smooth, water-sculpted walls creates a mesmerizing atmosphere, while the river's cool, flowing waters add to the sense of exploration and discovery. Whether hiking the bottom-up route from the Temple of Sinawava or embarking on the challenging top-down trek, the Narrows provides an unforgettable experience that immerses visitors in the raw beauty and grandeur of Zion's geological wonders. The Virgin River Riverside Walk is a relatively easy hike that takes you along the banks of the Virgin River, with towering cliffs on either side. The trail is paved for most of the way, but the real adventure begins when you reach the end of the trail and start walking in the river itself.
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| The Narrows - Riverside Walk |
The water is cold, but the experience is unforgettable. As we waded through the river, we were surrounded by towering canyon walls, their red and white layers glowing in the sunlight. The sound of the water rushing over the rocks was incredibly soothing and we couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of peace and connection to nature.
A Squirrel with Skills
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| One of the squirrels at Zion National Park who know how to unzip a purse and find food inside! |
On our hike back to the Temple of Sinawava, we witnessed something truly remarkable - a squirrel expertly opening the chain of a woman’s purse to look for food! It was both hilarious and impressive and it served as a reminder of why we should never feed wildlife. Feeding animals can disrupt their natural behavior and damage the biodiversity of the park, so let’s all do our part to keep these places wild and beautiful.
Back to Saint George: A Quiet Evening
After a long day of exploring, we exited the park and made our way back to Saint George via Hurricane. As we drove, we couldn’t stop talking about everything we’d seen - from the towering cliffs of Zion to the serene beauty of the Virgin River.
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| Shehzadi's Odometer 9,563 miles at St. George, Utah: 3,168 miles from home |
Back at our hotel in Saint George, Shehzadi's odometer was reading 9,563 miles, which means we were 3,168 miles from home in Hyattsville, Maryland. Coincidentally, Shehzadi's odometer was at 6395 miles at flag-off from Hyattsville - there's a pattern in there which we took to be a good sign!
But the adventure doesn’t stop here, fellow wanderers. Tomorrow, we embark on the longest single-day drive of our 9,000-mile journey, taking us to the below-sea-level depths of Death Valley. Along the way, we’ll visit Las Vegas, the Hoover Dam and the mysterious Extra-Terrestrial Highway in Nevada with #weirdnevada desert art following it. It’s going to be a wild ride and we can’t wait to share it with you at Zion to edge of Extra-Terrestrial (E.T.) Highway via Las Vegas and Hoover Dam | into the Mojave Desert.
Until next time, keep exploring, keep dreaming and remember: the journey is just as important as the destination.
Reference route map of The Vagabond Couple's 9,000-mile USA & Mexico overland roundtrip: Map-1 and Map-2.
- The Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi
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