Vienna: Where Schnitzel Meets Schlock (but mostly Schnitzel)
Schwedenbrücke (Sweden Bridge) from Leopoldstadt, Danube Canal (Donaukanal), Vienna |
In this photo-story, we fly to Vienna, Austria from Keflavik, Iceland after an epic Iceland overland trip and start our overland journey of central Europe. Steeped in history and artistic heritage, Vienna is a captivating city. The grand Danube River winds through its center, while magnificent palaces like Schönbrunn, once the Habsburg summer residence, evoke its imperial past. Vienna's cultural scene throbs with the music of Mozart and Beethoven, while art lovers can admire the works of Klimt and Schiele in the MuseumsQuartier district. Beyond its grand sights, Vienna offers a charming cafe culture and a welcoming atmosphere, making it a truly delightful destination.
Vienna
Vienna, Wien in German, boasts a rich history from its Roman roots as Vindobona to its time as the heart of the vast Habsburg empire reflected in its grand palaces like Schönbrunn. Today, this beautiful city stuns with its Baroque architecture, iconic sites like St. Stephen's Cathedral and a vibrant cultural scene that echoes its imperial past.
Austria boasts a thriving, highly developed social market economy. Ranked among the world's wealthiest nations in terms of GDP per capita, it balances strong social programs with a dynamic market. While state-owned industries were prominent until the 1980s, privatization has led to a more open economy. This, coupled with European Union membership, has attracted foreign investment and fostered trade. Austria's economic strength is further bolstered by its tourism industry, a major draw thanks to its stunning alpine scenery and rich cultural heritage.
The modern history of Vienna and greater Austria is tied to that of the the Habsburg dynasty, a powerful European family from the 15th to the 20th century, which ruled a vast empire centered around Austria. They rose to prominence by strategically acquiring land and marrying into other royal families. Their control stretched far and wide, encompassing Austria, Hungary, Bohemia (historical heart of today's Czech Republic) and even Spain for a time. The Habsburgs also held the title of Holy Roman Emperor for most of the period from 1438 to 1806. Their legacy is complex, marked by both cultural and political influence, as well as territorial disputes and religious tensions.
The U-Bahn Metro Transit System
Vienna's U-Bahn rapid transit (subway / metro) system has five lines (U1, U2, U3, U4 and U6) that cover over 83 kilometers and 109 stations. It is a major part of the city's well-regarded public transportation system, operating daily between 5 am and 12:30 am with frequent trains during peak hours. The network is still expanding, with plans to add another line (U5) by 2030.
In Vienna, they simply append the letter U to subway station names to distinguish them from bus stops on their public bus system operated by Wiener Linien. The bus system is also extensive and complements the U-Bahn underground metro network very well. There are over 130 bus routes crisscrossing the city, making it easy to get to almost any destination within Vienna's city limits.
Here is an excellent Vienna City Metro Map ("Fast Connections in Vienna").
Enkplatz U metro station |
The Enkplatz U station is closest to our hotel in Vienna's south-eastern Simmering district. We get tickets and navigate the excellent metro system to Schönbrunn U immediately east of Schönbrunn Palace (Schloss Schönbrunn / Schloß Schönbrunn). The Hietzing U station at the northeast corner of Schönbrunn Palace is another, even closer, option.
Enkplatz U metro station platform |
Vienna's U-Bahn trains are modern and efficient. There are currently over 450 trains in operation across the five lines. The newest trains are the Vienna Type G vehicles, which were introduced in 2014. These trains are air-conditioned and have wider doors to allow for faster passenger boarding and disembarking.
Enkplatz U subway station platform |
Vienna's U-Bahn subway trains are spacious and have bright interiors. Electronic displays show the next station and the direction of travel. Automated announcements of the next station are in German and English. There is an intercom system for contacting the train operator in case of emergency and designated areas for bicycles and strollers. We also see some trains with screens that show real-time information about upcoming departures as well as news and weather updates.
On board a U-Bahn train in Vienna |
Overall, the U-Bahn metro trains are a clean, comfortable and safe way to travel around the city.
Schönbrunn Palace
Schönbrunn Palace has a rich history intertwined with the Habsburg dynasty. Originally a hunting lodge in the 17th century, it was transformed into a grand summer residence under the reign of Empress Maria Theresa.
A fountain in a pond at Schloss Schönbrunn |
Today, the 1,441-room Baroque palace stuns with its yellow facade, opulent state rooms and meticulously landscaped gardens.
Front (Main Entrance), Schönbrunn Palace By Simon Matzinger - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link |
Schönbrunn served as a backdrop for centuries of European diplomacy and courtly life, whispering tales of emperors, queens and their extravagant affairs.
South View & Gardens, Schönbrunn Palace By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
Its enduring beauty and historical significance have earned Schloss Schönbrunn a well-deserved spot as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see for any visitor to Vienna.
After exploring , we climb back down into Vienna Metro and take the subway system to Ring, Volkstheater U station at the Volksgarten park.
Volkstheater U metro station platform |
Volksgarten Park
Dating back to 1823, Volksgarten (People's Garden) offers a charming escape within the city. Designed with both French-Baroque style near the Ringstraße and a more relaxed English landscape style closer to the Hofburg Palace, it caters to various tastes.
Volksgarten By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
Visitors can admire the neoclassical Theseustempel, grab a coffee at the historic Cortisches Kaffeehaus, or pay their respects at the monuments dedicated to Empress Elisabeth and playwright Franz Grillparzer. The Volksgarten Rose Garden is a particular highlight, bursting with color when in bloom.
Other than Volksgarten itself, we are greeted by a wealth of historical and cultural attractions around it. Right next door sits the magnificent Hofburg Palace complex, housing the Sisi Museum and the Imperial Apartments. Across the street lies the neo-classical Parliament building, a symbol of Austrian democracy. A short stroll south leads us to the Burgtheater, a renowned theater known for its grand productions. And for another touch of nature, we venture into the neighboring Hofburg Gardens, another historical park boasting a Butterfly House and a Palm House.
St. Stephen's Cathedral
We walk east across Stephansplatz in the heart of Vienna to St. Stephen's Cathedral (Domkirche St. Stephan) which is a magnificent landmark that embodies Vienna's rich history and artistic heritage.
St. Stephen's Cathedral |
The Roman Catholic cathedral, with its construction spanning centuries, boasts a unique blend of Romanesque and Gothic architectural styles.
St. Stephen's Cathedral |
Visitors are awestruck by its towering spires, particularly the Stephansdom (St. Stephen's Tower) reaching an impressive 136 meters (446 feet), offering panoramic views of the city.
St. Stephen's Cathedral |
We step inside to discover a breathtaking interior adorned with intricate details, from ornate altars and sculptures to shimmering stained glass windows.
St. Stephen's Cathedral, Vienna By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
St. Stephen's Cathedral is not just a place of worship but a cultural treasure, a a Gothic masterpiece waiting to be explored.
Innere Stadt
We stroll around a bit more in Vienna's Innere Stadt, also known as the First District, which pulsates with the city's heart. Encircled by the grand Ringstrasse boulevard, this historic district overflows with architectural gems. St. Stephen's Cathedral dominates the central Stephansplatz square. Nearby, the Hofburg Palace complex, with its sprawling baroque buildings and rich Habsburg history, beckons exploration. Exclusive shops line elegant inner city pedestrian streets like Kärntner Strasse and Graben, while art galleries and cafes weave through the charming side streets. The Innere Stadt is a captivating blend of historic grandeur, imperial legacy and vibrant culture, offering a quintessential Viennese experience.
There is a Bitcoin store on Führichgasse which was interesting to us coming from the United States where we do not have cryptocurrency stores like this.
Bitcoin Store, Führichgasse |
Haus der Musik: the Vienna House of Music & das Klangmuseum - Piano Stairs & Virtual Orchestra
Vienna's Klangmuseum, also known as the House of Music, isn't a typical museum. Opened in 2000, it's a one-of-a-kind interactive experience designed to bring the world of music to life. It is located at Seilerstätte 30, 1010 Wien.
Haus der Musik |
We liven up our ascent at the House of Music with the playful piano stairs! As we climb the stairs at the beginning of the museum's sound tour, we treat them like a giant, 13-step piano. Each step is motion-sensitive, acting as a key. As we step on them, the key is played and a corresponding note lights up on a display panel beside the stairs, creating a visual and auditory treat. It's a fun and interactive way to engage with music right from the start of our House of Music exploration.
Watch: Vienna House of Music Piano Stairs and your own Virtual Orchestra (Haus der Musik - das Klangmuseum)
There are almost zero static displays in the House of Music. Here, we get to conduct a virtual orchestra, explore how sound is produced and even relive the experience of hearing sounds in the womb. Spread over five floors, the museum's permanent exhibitions include "Sonosphere," a journey through the fascinating world of sound and "The Great Masters of Viennese Music Tradition," where we learn about the city's musical giants like Mozart and Beethoven.
Visitor information board for "Classic Reloaded" at the House of Music |
The Klangmuseum isn't just about the past, though - the "Vienna Philharmonic Museum" on-site delves into the history of this world-renowned orchestra, while the "Live on Stage" concert series keeps things fresh with performances by up-and-coming musicians.
Fiaker (Two-Horse Carriage) Ride around Innere Stadt
It has been a significant amount of exploring Vienna on foot in the heat so far. When we reach the Bundesministerium für Wirtschaft und Arbeit - Bundeslastverteiler (Federal Ministry of Economics and Labor) at the intersection of Heidenschuß and Am Hof, we give in to the temptation of a nice relaxing horse carriage ride around the heart of Vienna.
Fiaker (Horse-drawn carriage) ride around Innere Stadt (downtown) Vienna Park Hyatt Vienna Hotel in background |
Imagine clopping through the elegant Innere Stadt district of Vienna in a two-horse carriage, also known as a "Fiaker". These iconic carriages, a cherished part of the city's landscape, let you experience Vienna like royalty. The gentle clip-clop of the two horses' hooves sets a leisurely pace, allowing you to soak in the architectural grandeur. As you pass by St. Stephen's Cathedral with its soaring spires, the Hofburg Palace with its baroque splendor and the bustling squares, your guide can share stories of Vienna's rich history. Turning down a narrow cobbled street, you might catch a glimpse of a hidden courtyard cafe or a charming boutique. A horse-drawn carriage tour offers a romantic and unforgettable way to discover the magic of Vienna's inner city.
Riding across Michaelerplatz (St. Michael's Square) on a Fiaker (Horse-drawn carriage) |
We start off from the Park Hyatt Vienna hotel which, steeped in luxury and Viennese elegance, resides in a meticulously restored 19th-century bank building. Located right beside the historic Freyung Square, the hotel offers a central location for exploring Vienna. Boasting grand interiors with marble, brass and wood paneling, the Park Hyatt Vienna provides a luxurious stay with modern amenities, including a spa, an indoor swimming pool and refined onsite dining. (Disclaimer: We are not affiliated with the Park Hyatt Vienna and this is not paid promotion.)
Verbund AG Headquarters Vienna |
Verbund AG, the biggest electricity supplier, powers 40% of Austria generating 90% of its electricity from hydropower stations. A competition was held to redesign the facade of Verbund Vienna headquarters facing Freyung Street. The winning design by SOLID architecture aims to represent Verbund's focus on hydropower generation through the facade's design. This facade integrates with the historic setting while maintaining a cohesive look with the rest of the building.
Burgtheater |
Steeped in history, Vienna's Burgtheater is the national theater of Austria and a giant in the German-speaking theatrical world.
Burgtheater By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
Founded in the mid-1700s by Empress Maria Theresa, the Burgtheater has been a cultural hub for centuries.
Burgtheater (composite) |
Burgtheater |
The current grand Burgtheater building, designed in a neo-Baroque style, opened in 1888.
Burgtheater (composite) |
Renowned for its traditional acting style and vast repertoire, the Burgtheater stages everything from contemporary plays to works by theatrical giants like Shakespeare and Schiller.
Vienna Opera House (composite) |
Vienna's State Opera House (Wiener Staatsoper) is a majestic landmark and a global leader in the opera world.
Vienna Opera House By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
Built in the 1860s in a stunning Neo-Renaissance style, the Vienna Opera House boasts a rich history and an impressive stage that's seen legendary performers like Pavarotti and Callas.
Vienna Opera House |
Today, the Vienna Opera House stages a vast repertoire with over 60 operas and ballets performed throughout the year, making it one of the busiest opera houses on the planet.
Vienna's Rathaus, also referred to as Vienna City Hall (Rathaus der Stadt Wien), is the official seat of the city's local government. Constructed in Gothic Revival style by architect Friedrich von Schmidt, it was opened in 1883.
Vienna Rathaus (City Hall) |
Located on Rathausplatz in the Innere Stadt district, the Rathaus is not only a functional building but also a major landmark, known for its elaborate facade and towering spires.
Vienna Rathaus (City Hall) at Rathausplatz By Thomas Ledl - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link |
Rathausplatz is transformed into a vibrant open-air hub during the 2019 Film Festival. This free summer event, lasting 65 days until early September, isn't actually a film festival in the traditional sense. Instead, it offers a unique blend of culture and entertainment. Visitors enjoy a program of live music, featuring highlights from opera, classical, pop and rock. Alongside the musical performances, attendees indulge in delicious food from various vendors, making the festival a delightful combination of artistic discovery and summertime fun.
Vienna boasts one of the largest tram systems in the world, clocking in at around 171 kilometers with nearly 30 lines. These iconic red and white trams, also called "Bim" by locals, are a convenient and reliable way to navigate Vienna.
"Bim": The Vienna Tram System |
Trams in Vienna service a large portion of the city center, including some underground routes. Whether you're looking for a quick hop across town or a scenic journey, Vienna's tram system is a great choice
Mut für Österreich. Gut für Österreich Courage for Austria. Good for Austria SPÖ-Bundesgeschäftsstelle Political Party Office, Löwelstraße, Vienna |
Palais Montenuovo has a complex history. The site was once occupied by several smaller houses, including one with a colorful legend of a Turkish tunnel during the 1529 siege. In the 19th century, a new palace was built for Count Wilhelm Albrecht Montenuovo, whose name reflected his mother's lineage connected to Napoleon.
Palais Montenuovo |
Montenuovo palace briefly housed the Anglo-Austrian Bank before becoming an office building. Today, it boasts an elongated facade on Strauchgasse and a replica of an old house sign referencing the Turkish legend.
Standing in the heart of Vienna, Hofburg is a sprawling palace complex that served as the seat of Habsburg power for centuries. Construction of Hofburg began in the 13th century and the buildings were continuously added to over time, resulting in a fascinating mix of architectural styles, from Gothic to Baroque.
Hofburg |
Once the winter residence of the emperors, today Hofburg is a hotspot for tourists. You can explore the lavish Imperial Apartments, marvel at the treasures in the Imperial Treasury, or watch the world-famous Spanish Riding School perform.
Hofburg By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0 at, Link |
Part of the Hofburg complex also houses the office of the Austrian president, showcasing Hofburg's enduring role as a center of power.
Our Fiaker wagoner takes us from Michaelerplatz through a gate into Hofburg's inner courtyard complex which is literally called "In der Burg" ("In the Castle").
From Michaelerplatz into In der Burg, Hofburg Palace |
Encompassing 18 wings, 19 courtyards and a staggering 2,600 rooms, "In der Burg" today houses a mix of museums, government offices and even residential space. It's a maze of history, with sections like the Imperial Apartments offering a glimpse into royal life, while the Austrian National Library showcases the vast collection of Habsburg knowledge.
Hofburg Palace courtyard (composite) |
A statue of Francis II, also known as Francis I, holds a unique place within the walls of the Hofburg Palace in Vienna. He reigned as the last Holy Roman Emperor (Francis II) from 1792 to 1806, a time of immense political upheaval in Europe. Witnessing the empire's dissolution, he cleverly transformed himself into the first Emperor of Austria (Francis I) in 1804, ensuring the Habsburg dynasty's continued dominance. His legacy is likely present within the Hofburg's vast collections and architecture, a testament to his reign and the evolution of the Austrian Empire.
From In der Burg, Hofburg back out to Michaelerplatz |
The Outer Castle Gate (Burgtor) of Hofburg is a grand entrance to the Hofburg Palace complex built between 1821 and 1824. It replaced an earlier gate destroyed by Napoleon's troops. Designed in the style of a triumphal arch, it commemorates Austrian victories over Napoleon, particularly the Battle of Leipzig in 1813.
Burgtor: Outer Castle Gate of Hofburg Palace |
The Burgtor features five arches, with the central one once reserved for the imperial carriage. Today, the Burgtor stands as a symbol of both Viennese resilience and the city's rich history.
The Schweizertor (Swiss Gate) is another grand entrance to the Hofburg Palace complex. Built in the mid-1500s in a striking Renaissance style, it features a red and black marble exterior adorned with intricate details.
Schweizertor (Swiss Gate) |
The name "Swiss Gate" doesn't come from its design, but rather from the Swiss soldiers who served as guards during the 18th century. This historic gate offers a glimpse into the former Habsburg imperial palace and even provides access to the renowned Imperial Treasury.
Steeped in history, the Dorotheum Vienna is one of the world's oldest auction houses, established in 1707 by Emperor Joseph I. It holds the title of largest auction house for art items in Continental Europe.
Palais Dorotheum |
The Dorotheum offers more than just auctions though. They also have retail stores selling art, antiques, furniture and jewelry from various eras. The Palais Dorotheum, their headquarters in Vienna, is a neo-classical building that is itself an attraction for visitors.
Vienna's Presidential Chancellery (Präsidentschaftskanzlei) is the administrative center that supports the Austrian President in carrying out their duties as head of state. Located within the Leopoldine Wing of the historic Hofburg Palace, the Chancellery itself is divided into several working groups.Francis II and I (German: Franz II.; 12 February 1768 – 2 March 1835) was the last Holy Roman Emperor as Francis II
Presidential Chancellery (Präsidentschaftskanzlei) |
The groups of the Presidential Chancellery tackle various areas including domestic affairs, legal matters, international relations and even social and administrative tasks. Essentially, the Presidential Chancellery functions as the President's right hand, ensuring the smooth operation of their office.
The Federal Chancery (Bundeskanzleramt) in Ballhausplatz in Vienna is a historic building that serves as the seat of the Austrian government. Located in the heart of the city, it houses the office of the Federal Chancellor and the Federal Cabinet.
Federal Chancery, Ballhausplatz (Bundeskanzleramt) |
Originally constructed in the early 18th century, the Baroque palace of Federal Chancery has witnessed centuries of Austrian history. The term "Ballhausplatz" itself has become synonymous with Austrian government power, similar to Downing Street in the UK.
Vienna's Michaelerplatz boasts the Power on Land Fountain (Die Macht zu Lande), also known as the "Mastery of the Land." Designed by Edmund Hellmer in 1897, this grand fountain flanks the Michaelertor, a monumental gate of the Hofburg Imperial Palace. The fountain features sculptures symbolizing Austria's military strength, a testament to the nation's historical power on land.
Power on Land Fountain (Die Macht zu Lande), Michaelerplatz |
Michaelerplatz is also the location of the impressive Power of the Sea fountain (Macht zur See) sculpted by Rudolf Weyr in 1893. This fountain features a powerful central figure symbolizing the sea's might, surrounded by various mythical creatures representing its untamed nature.
The two grand fountains at Michaelerplatz add a touch of drama and intrigue to the square, especially when their water features are activated. They stand as captivating works of art and a reminder of Austria's rich past.
Saint Michael's Church (Iglesia San Miguel Arcángel / Michaelerkirche) is a gem with a rich history. Standing across from the Hofburg Palace's Michaelertor Gate, it is one of the oldest churches in the city and a rare remaining example of Romanesque architecture in Vienna.
Saint Michael's Church (Michaelerkirche) |
While some Baroque and Classical elements have been added over time, Michaelerkirche's grand facade remains largely unchanged since the late 18th century. Step inside to discover stunning stucco work on the Baroque high altar, depicting the Archangel Michael battling demons. This church, cared for by the Salvatorian order since 1923, offers a beautiful blend of architectural styles and artistic treasures.
Standing in stark contrast to the ornate buildings surrounding Vienna's Michaelerplatz, the Looshaus is a landmark of modern architecture. Designed by Adolf Loos in 1912, it sparked outrage with its minimalist facade.
Michaelerplatz: Palais Herberstein (left), Looshaus (middle) and Michaelerkirche (right) (composite) |
Nicknamed the "house without eyebrows" for its lack of ornamentation, the Looshaus championed a new aesthetic. This pioneering use of reinforced concrete and emphasis on clean lines made a bold statement against historicism, paving the way for Viennese Modernism.
Today, the Looshaus remains a significant building, admired for its revolutionary design and embodiment of Loos's philosophy.
Standing tall on the Graben, a pedestrianized street in Vienna's inner city, is the Plague Column (die Wiener Pestsäule), also known as the Trinity Column (Dreifaltigkeitssäule). This Baroque masterpiece is a must-see for any visitor.
Plague Column at Graben |
Erected in the late 17th century after a devastating plague epidemic, it serves as a poignant memorial and a testament to the city's resilience. The column features sculptures symbolizing the Holy Trinity, along with angels and other figures. Look closely and you might even spot the famous protruding Habsburg lip on one of the reliefs!
Our two-horse carriage Fiaker tour comes to an end at the Stephansplatz U station at intersection of Brandstätte and Rotenturmstraße. It has been wonderful immersing ourselves in Vienna's grandeur with a this Fiaker tour of the inner city with clip-clopping hooves carrying us past iconic landmarks.
Fiaker |
We wound through the historic center, marveling at the stunning Hofburg Palace, the awe-inspiring Vienna State Opera and the majestic Ringstrasse boulevard. Our Fiaker coachman even regaled us with tales of Vienna's rich history as our horses trotted along, making this sightseeing experience both informative and delightful.
The Danube Canal (Donaukanal) of Vienna
We get back on the U-Bahn at Stephansplatz U station and get off at Schwedenplatz U station right next to the Danube Canal (Donaukanal) which is often mistaken for the Danube itself. The Donaukanal is a vibrant waterway that winds through Vienna's heart. Originally a natural branch of the Danube, it is now a regulated 17.3 kilometer channel. Unlike the main river, the Donaukanal graces the city center, offering a scenic path for cyclists, pedestrians and even the occasional beaver. The banks come alive in summer with pop-up beach bars, restaurants and swimmers enjoying the docked pools. Keep an eye out for impressive street art lining the route, showcasing Vienna's artistic side.
We stroll around Leopoldstadt district around Marienbrücke and Schwedenbrücke (Sweden Bridge) along the Donaukanal. Leopoldstadt, Vienna's 2nd district, is an area rich in history and character. Located on an island formed by the Danube River and the Danube Canal, it offers a unique blend of old and new.
Marienbrücke bridge over Donaukanal, Leopoldstadt, Vienna. Schwedenbrücke (Sweden Bridge) in background. |
Once a center of Jewish life in Vienna, Leopoldstadt boasts the Karmelitermarkt, a market famous for its kosher food stalls alongside trendy cafes and art spaces. The giant Ferris wheel of the Prater amusement park rises above the vast green Prater recreation area, while the Danube Canal's trendy beach bars provide a cool summer escape. Whether you're interested in history, vibrant culture, or outdoor fun, Leopoldstadt has something for everyone.
Tourists leaving Vienna often have a very positive impression of the city. They are typically:
- Enchanted by the Beauty: Vienna's grand architecture, from the majestic Schönbrunn Palace to the intricate St. Stephen's Cathedral, leaves tourists in awe.
- Immersed in Culture: The rich musical heritage, with connections to Mozart and Beethoven, combined with the vibrant art scene and historical sites, creates a sense of cultural immersion.
- Charmed by Elegance: Vienna's elegant atmosphere, with its horse-drawn carriages, coffee house culture and well-dressed locals, creates a feeling of sophistication.
- Impressed by Efficiency: The clean streets, efficient public transportation and well-maintained infrastructure often leave a positive impression.
- Foodie Paradise: Tourists often depart missing the delicious Viennese cuisine, from pastries like Sachertorte to hearty schnitzel and delectable coffee.
- Language Barrier: For non-German speakers, communication could be a slight hurdle.
- Price-point: Vienna can be a bit expensive compared to other European cities.
Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from Gemini.
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