The Danube River near Spitz in romantic Wachau Valley in southern Austria

Nestled along the Danube River in Austria, the Wachau Valley is a picturesque region famed for its terraced vineyards, quaint villages and historic castles. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the valley's beauty weaves together nature and humanity. Lush green hillsides adorned with grapevines frame the winding Danube, while charming towns and magnificent baroque monasteries like Melk Abbey dot the landscape. This enchanting stretch of land offers a glimpse into Austria's rich history and a celebration of its viticulture.

In this photo-story, we start the day by transiting the Vienna metro system (U-Bahn, map) from Enkplatz U to Karlsplatz U and meet up with our Wachau Valley Excursion bus at Biogena Plaza across the Vienna State Opera House. We ride the bus across the busy Nordbrücke bridge over the Danube in downtown Vienna and then out of the city. We reach Krems where the Kunst im Kreisverkehr (Art in the Roundabout) on Förthofstraße is striking and the view of the Danube beautiful. We continue on the road literally called "Österreichische Romantikstraße" (Austrian romantic route) to Dürnstein on the left shore of Danube to visit the Dürnstein Abbey (Stift Dürnstein) and walk around a bit checking out the Dürnstein Rossatz Ferry ramp (Fähre Dürnstein Rossatz). Our next stop is at Spitz also on the northern back of the Danube. We board a river cruise boat at Donaustation 16 ramp at Spitz and sail to the boat ramp at Donaustation 11 at Melk, a journey that makes it eminently clear why Johann Strauss Jr. found it imperative to compose his legendary Blue Danube waltz. At Melk, we explore the stunning Melk Abbey (Stift Melk). By the time we return all the way to Enkplatz U and our hotel in Simmering, Vienna, the unforgettable day is long over. Here is a map of our bus and boat route through the Wachau Valley and Danube River Cruise from Vienna to Melk.

Vienna's U-Bahn metro system, known for its efficiency and cleanliness, once again transforms our journey from Enkplatz-U to Karlsplatz-U into a comfortable exploration beneath the city.

Enkplatz U metro station

As we depart Enkplatz-U subway station, we steal a glance out the window to catch the sight of the landmark Gasometer, a cluster of four historic gasometers with distinctive round shapes.

Enkplatz U metro station

As the train pulls into Karlsplatz-U station and the doors slide open, a glimpse of the grand Karlskirche, the baroque church with a massive dome that dominates the skyline, is revealed. Museums, palaces and historic squares are all within easy reach of Karlsplatz (see our photo-story "Vienna") which is a a central hub of the U-Bahn network.

We walk to our bus pickup point at the Biogena Plaza which is a one-stop shop for all things luxury health and wellness. This unique complex offers a variety of services under one roof, including a Biogena store selling high-quality health products, a diagnostics area, a medical center with a focus on preventive and holistic medicine and even a biohacking floor. There's also a lounge where you can relax and enjoy healthy food and drinks.

We board the bus and head out of Vienna. On the way, we see the spires of Votivkirche on Vienna's Ringstraße. Votivkirche is a neo-Gothic church and the city's second-tallest religious building.

Votivkirche

Votivkirche was built in the spirit of thanksgiving for the failed assassination attempt on Emperor Franz Joseph in 1853 whose brother Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian launched a fundraising campaign to thank God for sparing the Emperor's life. The church was consecrated in 1879 on the silver jubilee of Emperor Franz Joseph and Empress Elisabeth.

Our bus crosses the Nordbrücke (North Bridge) which is the northernmost bridge crossing the Danube River in Vienna.

Danube river viewed  from Nordbrücke bridge in Vienna

Built between 1962 and 1964, Nordbrücke connects the districts of Brigittenau and Floridsdorf. It's a four-lane highway bridge, forming part of the A22 Danube Ufer Autobahn. Interestingly, the Nordbrücke was originally built to include a railway line alongside the road traffic, but this is no longer in use. The bridge underwent a major refurbishment and expansion between 1995 and 1997, which included creating space for emergency lanes. Today, the Nordbrücke is an important traffic artery for Vienna and it also offers scenic views of the Danube River.

From the A22 Autobahn, we merge onto the S5 highway, the amazing Österreichische Romantikstraße, at Stockerau heading west along the left bank of the Danube into Krems an der Donau. Winding its way for 380 kilometers (236 miles) through Austria, the Österreichische Romantikstraße (Austrian Romantic Road) is a scenic route connecting Salzburg and Vienna.

Danube river viewed from Österreichische Romantikstraße approaching Krems an der Donau (map)

The themed Österreichische Romantikstraße takes travelers on a journey through some of Austria's most beautiful landscapes charmed by picturesque towns, majestic mountains and sparkling lakes along the way. The cultural and historical significance of the region adds another layer of enrichment, making the Austrian Romantic Road a delightful choice for a road trip adventure.

The Wachau Valley lies along the Danube River between the towns of Melk and Krems an der Donau in southern Waldviertel. This 36-kilometer stretch of land boasts a stunning landscape of rolling hills, terraced vineyards, charming villages and historic castles perched on cliffs overlooking the river. The valley's beauty and cultural significance earned it a designation as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000.

Krems

Dotted along the Wachau Valley floor are quaint villages with colorful houses, cobbled streets and charming squares. Many of these villages have a rich history dating back to the Middle Ages and their architecture reflects this heritage. Visitors can wander through these villages, soak up the atmosphere and sample the local wines at cozy cafes and restaurants.

Our first stop in the Wachau Valley is at its eastern end at Krems an der Donau which lies at the confluence of the Krems and Danube Rivers. Steeped in history and adorned with vineyards, Krems is a charming town in Lower Austria. Located about 70 kilometers west of Vienna, Krems boasts a rich past, evident in its medieval structures like the Steiner Tor Gate and the Gozzoburg fortress. Beyond its historical significance, Krems is a center for Austrian wine production, attracting wine connoisseurs with its local wineries and annual harvest festivals.

Steinertor: 15th century gate in Krems By C.Stadler/Bwag - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

We continue on highway B3 (Danube Path) - a continuation of the Österreichische Romantikstraße - from highway S5 heading west out of Krems. B3 is a scenic route in Lower Austria that follows the Danube River. It runs from Krems to Melk, a distance of about 35 kilometers. The B3 is a popular Wachau Valley route for cyclists and motorcyclists, offering stunning views of the Danube Valley and the surrounding countryside. We stop at the traffic circle where B3 meets Förthofstraße (map).

Danube river viewed from traffic Circle at B3 and Förthofstraße

There are interesting metallic sculptures in the middle of traffic circles around here. Called "Kunst im Kreisverkehr" (Art in the Roundabout), this type of public art is installed in the center of traffic circles. Kunst im Kreisverkehr can be found in many cities and towns around the world and it can take many different forms. Here in Krems, they are abstract in design, but they suggest the shapes of plants, animals and people. We are somehow reminded of the totally unrelated but somehow similar Totem Poles we explored in Ketchikan, Alaska.

Kunst im Kreisverkehr - Art in the Roundabout

The installations are a popular tourist attraction and have become a symbol of Krems. They are also a source of pride for the city's residents and have been praised for their beauty and their contribution to the city's public art landscape. However, they have also been criticized for their cost and for their lack of traditional artistic merit. Despite the criticism, the Kunst im Kreisverkehr remain a popular and controversial part of Krems' cityscape.

Dürnstein

Our next stop along Austria's Romantic Road is Dürnstein, a captivating town nestled in Wachau Valley offering a delightful blend of history, charm and scenic beauty.

Dürnstein visitor welcome board

Perhaps the best view of the wide Danube river here is from the Dürnstein-Rossatz ferry ramp (Fähre Dürnstein Rossatz). The Dürnstein-Rossatz ferry is a convenient and scenic way to cross the Danube in Wachau Valley. Operating between the charming town of Dürnstein and Rossatz-Arnsdorf, this ferry has been a tradition for centuries.

Danube river view from Dürnstein-Rossatz ferry terminal, Dürnstein

The Dürnstein-Rossatz ferry runs from Easter until the end of October, offering frequent crossings throughout the day with no wait times under normal conditions. The eco-friendly ferry, powered by electricity and solar energy, provides a relaxing journey with beautiful views of the Danube and the surrounding landscape.

The Danube at Dürnstein

Richard the Lionheart was famously held captive at the Dürnstein Castle (Burgruine Dürnstein) whose imposing stone ruins are impressive even today. We learned that Hadmar II of Kuenring, Lord of Dürnstein who actually imprisoned Richard the Lionheart here following the command of his boss Leopold V, Duke of Austria, was not really a bad guy himself. His good deeds include founding of the city of Weitra in the Waldviertel region and expansion of the famous Cistercian monastery dating back to 1138 CE in Zwettl in Lower Austria in the Diocese of St. Pölten (Stift Zwettl Abbey).

Visitor information board about Hadmar II of Kuenring, Lord of Dürnstein

Stift Dürnstein - the blue Baroque Dürnstein Abbey looms over town center with its striking blue tower. Dürnstein's narrow streets lined with colorful buildings and inviting cafes create a picturesque atmosphere.

Stift Dürnstein (Dürnstein Abbey) By Haeferl - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

Wineries surrounding Dürnstein entice wine lovers with tastings and stunning Danube River and Dürnstein Castle views.

Way to vineyards at Dürnstein

The Wachau Valley is famed for its wine production, with a history dating back to the Romans. The terraced vineyards clinging to the hillsides are a testament to the hard work and dedication of generations of winemakers.

A vineyard of a Wachau Valley winery at Dürnstein; Dürnstein Castle (Burgruine Dürnstein) ruins can be seen on top of the hill

The Wachau Valley region's unique climate and soil conditions produce some of Austria's most prized white wines, including Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.

Spitz

Our last road stop is at Spitz an der Donau before cruising on the Danube. Spitz is another picturesque wine town nestled amidst rolling vineyards and charming villages along the Danube River in Wachau Valley.

Watersports Clubs like The Wassersport Club Spitz offer a multitude of equipment for rent for visitors looking for kayaking and canoeing on the calm stretches of the Danube south of Vienna. Stand-Up Paddleboarding (SUP) is another great way to explore the Danube at your own pace, allowing you to paddle along the riverbank taking in the sights, or you can head out to one of the many islands in the river. For swimming, there are a number of designated swimming areas along the Danube in Southern Austria. These areas are typically well-maintained and have lifeguards on duty.

Wassersport Club Spitz

Its idyllic location has earned Spitz the nickname "Pearl of the Wachau" and is a perfect destination for relaxation and exploration.

The Erste Donau-Dampfschiffahrts-Gesellschaft (DDSG) - First Danube Steamship Company - was founded in 1829 and was the first steamship company on the Danube. It was founded by two Englishmen, John Andrews and Joseph Pritchard and received a 20-year monopoly on steamship navigation on the Danube from the Austrian government. The captain of such a steamship was called Donaudampfschiffahrtsgesellschaftskapitän - a word that is used in German language courses to demonstrate word-compounding features of the language.

Former agency of the First Danube Steamship Company in Spitz

The DDSG played a major role in the development of shipping on the Danube and its tributaries and by the end of the 19th century it had a fleet of over 200 ships. The DDSG also operated a number of hotels and restaurants along the Danube and it was a major tourist attraction. The DDSG was nationalized in 1946 and renamed the Donau-Dampfschiffahrts-Gesellschaft (DDSG). It was privatized again in 1995 and is now part of the Vienna-based VTG Group. The DDSG still operates a number of passenger and cargo ships on the Danube and it is also involved in tourism and real estate.

A Cruise on the Danube River in Wachau Valley at South Austria

It is at the Donaustation 16 boat ramp here in Spitz that we board our boat for a Danube river cruise to Melk. Donaustation 16 is a landing pier and sales point for the DDSG Blue Danube, a company offering sightseeing cruises on the Danube River. (Disclaimer: We are not affiliated with the DDSG Blue Danube or their ships and this is not a paid promotion.)

Donaustation 16

Active from April to October, Donaustation 16 serves as a departure and arrival point for cruises venturing through the scenic Wachau region.

Danube river cruise ships viewed from Donaustation 16

Our Danube river cruise ship - DDSG Blue Danube's "pride of the Wachau", the MS Dürnstein - arrives at Donaustation 16. We wait for passengers of the prior cruise to disembark and board the ship.

MS Dürnstein at Donaustation 16

Cruising on the Danube is a wonderful way to experience the beauty of the Wachau Valley from a different perspective. Several companies offer cruises along this route, typically lasting between 1.5 and 3 hours, depending on the number of stops.

Danube River Cruise

During the cruise, we enjoy breathtaking views of the Danube River, vineyards, charming villages and historic sites like Schwallenbach Kirche, Schloss Schönbühel and Melk Abbey.

Danube River Cruise

Nestled in the picturesque Wachau Valley along the Danube River, lies the Schwallenbach Kirche, also known as the Church of St. Sigismund. Though a branch church (Filialkirche), its history is rich. Originally a chapel built around 1420, it was dedicated to Saint Sigismund. Over the centuries, it has undergone transformations, reflecting architectural styles from Gothic to Baroque.

Church of St. Sigismund (Schwallenbach Kirche)

Schwallenbach Kirche features late Gothic buttresses and vaulted ribs, a beautiful statue of the Virgin Mary dating back to 1515 and the 18th-century Baroque altar. Inside there is a masterpiece: a 1767 altarpiece by the renowned painter Martin Johann Schmidt, depicting Saint Sigismund.

As is common in the mountains, a sudden spell of rain drives all passengers aboard the MS Dürnstein into the covered part of the sun deck. The spell is short and we soon come out again to the uncovered part of the sun deck. We are approaching the Schönbühel Castle at this point.

Partially covered Sun Deck of MS Dürnstein

Perched on a rocky cliff high above the Danube River in Austria, Schloss Schönbühel (Schönbühel Castle) boasts a rich history dating back to the 12th century. Originally built as a defensive fortress, the castle has since transformed into a picturesque landmark.

Schloss Schönbühel (Schönbühel Castle)

Standing guard over the Danube for centuries, Schloss Schönbühel boasts a rich history. Built in the early 12th century, the castle's origins trace back to a possible Roman fort on the site. Initially a defensive fortress under the noble Marchwardus de Schoenbuchele, it changed hands several times over the centuries. The Starhemberg family held it for over 400 years, but by the 19th century, it had fallen into disrepair.

Schloss Schönbühel (Schönbühel Castle)

Thankfully, Count Franz von Beroldingen acquired it in 1819, restoring Schloss Schönbühel to its former glory and ensuring its survival for generations to come. Offering stunning views of the surrounding Wachau region, Schloss Schönbühel is a popular destination today for both history buffs and those seeking a glimpse of Austrian beauty.

Sailing by Schallemmersdorf, we catch a glimpse of one of the cruise ships, possibly the Scenic Amber or Scenic Opal, operated by Scenic Cruises. The company calls their ships "Space Ships". (Disclaimer: we are not affiliated with Scenic Cruises and this is not a paid promotion.)

A Scenic Cruises Space Ship

Getting close to Emmersdorf an der Donau, we cross the MV Esmerelda cruise ship operated by Shearings Holidays. Some popular itineraries for MV Esmeralda Danube Cruises include cruises between Budapest and Vienna lasting a week or more. (Disclaimer: we are not affiliated with Shearings Holidays and this is not a paid promotion.)

MV Esmerelda on Danube River Cruise

While cruising by Emmersdorf an der Donau, we witness an interesting scene of a tugboat pushing downstream what appears to us to be two or three cargo ships belonging to Compania De Navigaţie Fluvială România Navrom S.A. (CNFR Navrom Galati) tied together.

CNFR Navrom Galati Cargo Ships (animated gif)

Soon we can see our destination the Melk Abbey perched on a hill above the town of of Melk.

Melk Abbey viewed from Danube River cruise ship

Melk Abbey (Stift Melk)

Our cruise ship, the MS Dürnstein, docks at the Donaustation 11 boat ramp which is also known as Melk/Altarm 11. This landing point for boats is situated in the peaceful backwater (Altarm) of the Danube River near Melk.

MS Dürnstein docked at Donaustation 11

Another Danube river cruise ship - the MS Austria - is docked at the piers ahead of the MS Dürnstein. The Austria is affectionately called "Queen of the Wachau" by her operator Brandner Schiffahrt. The Austria offers roundtrip cruises from Weissenkirchen (Weißenkirchen in der Wachau), a town not very far downstream from Spitz, to Melk. (Disclaimer: We are not affiliated with Brandner Schiffahrt either and this also is not a paid promotion).

MS Austria docked at Altarm 11

Altarm 11, Melk

The conveniently located Donaustation 11 dock allows for easy access to the town center and the impressive baroque landmark, Stift Melk, perched dramatically on a hill above. It's a perfect spot to disembark from a Danube cruise and explore the charming town and its historical and scenic surroundings.

The path up to Melk Abbey

Sitting atop a rocky outcrop overlooking the Danube River in Austria is the magnificent Melk Abbey, a Benedictine monastery that has been a religious and cultural center for over 900 years. The abbey is part of the Wachau Cultural Landscape which, as we mentioned before, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Here is a map of Melk Abbey.

As we approach the outer gates of the abbey, there are pretty rhombus-shaped stairs around a little central garden from the top of which the view of the abbey is wonderful.

Stairs before Melk Abbey entrance portal

The archway at the gates has the crossed-keys symbol of Melk Abbey engraved on it.

Melk Abbey Symbol: Crossed Keys

View from staircases above the gates of Melk Abbey

Going through the entrance gates and looking back at it, the archway has the Latin phrase "Ut in Omnibus Glorificetur Deus" engraved on its top. Translating to "That in all things God may be glorified", this is the motto of the Benedictine Order which is a Catholic monastic tradition. The phrase comes from the Holy Rule written by Saint Benedict, with some inspiration from the First Epistle of Peter in the New Testament. For the Benedictines, it reflects the idea that all aspects of their lives, from prayer and work to everyday actions, should be done in a way that ultimately brings glory to God. This probably is a reminder for visitors as they exit the abbey.

Ut in Omnibus Glorificetur Deus (That in all things God may be glorified)

The staircases we came down from also reveals more text inscribed below a "Stift Melk" sign at the garden in the middle of the stairs: "Ankommen, und du wirst höre" which translates to "Arrive and you will hear". Assumedly this refers to listening to the words of God, an idea reinforced inside the abbey via monks chanting "höre" transmitted via pipes that carry the audio around.

Ankommen, und du wirst höre (Arrive and you will hear)

The main entrance portal of Melk Abbey beyond the gates has Latin text with Roman numerals "ANNO MDCCXVIII" inscribed on its top. This translates to "In the year 1718".

Melk Abbey Entrance Portal

The year 1718 marks the completion of its Melk Abbey's grand entrance portal, not the abbey itself which was founded in 1089 but renovated in the 18th century. The portal is a grand structure flanked by bastions and adorned with sculptures designed by Lorenzo Mattielli in 1716.

The abbey showcases the grandeur of Baroque architecture with its bright yellow facade, elaborate frescoes and ornate ceilings. The abbey's current baroque appearance is the result of a reconstruction effort in the 18th century after a fire.

Melk Abbey

The ticket counter for Melk Abbey is located in the first courtyard of the abbey. You cannot miss it as you enter the grounds.

The main structure of Melk Abbey is likely built from local sandstone, a sturdy and readily available material. This strong foundation allowed the construction of the abbey's grand scale and towering features.

Melk Abbey

Melk Abbey's bright yellow facade is likely coated in stucco, a plaster-like material made with lime, sand and water. Stucco was commonly used in Baroque architecture because it could be molded into decorative shapes and painted in vibrant colors.

Melk Abbey facade

The stucco shell over the sandstone structure likely contributes to the ornate details and flourishes on the exterior. While stucco is the main facade material, some areas, like columns or sculptures, might incorporate real marble. Marble adds a touch of luxury and elegance to the exterior.

The heart of the abbey is its stunning library, which houses a collection of over 100,000 volumes, including medieval manuscripts and illuminated manuscripts.

The Library at Melk Abbey By Emgonzalez - Own work, Public Domain, Link

The library hall is breathtaking with its vaulted ceilings, frescoed cupolas and elaborate bookcases. 

The abbey church is another masterpiece of Baroque art and architecture.

The Church at Melk Abbey CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

The church features frescoes by famous Austrian artists, high altars adorned with statues and sculptures and pipe organ with over 4000 pipes.

A grand staircase with balustrades and statues leads up to the state rooms of the abbey.

Grand Imperial Staircase, Melk Abbey By Aconcagua - Own work, CC BY-SA 3.0, Link

The staircase was once used by visiting royalty and dignitaries.

The abbey grounds include a beautiful park with manicured lawns, sculptures and a terrace offering panoramic views of the Danube river's Wachau Valley.

Park of Melk Abbey Jakub Hałun, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Melk Abbey is a popular tourist destination and offers a variety of tours for visitors. A visit to Melk Abbey is a must for anyone interested in history, art, architecture, or religion. Perhaps this little sign at the smoking area of Melk Abbey captures the spirit of those fortunate enough to be able to visit Stift Melk.

"No Talking" sign, Melk Abbey

Wrapping up the day, we return to our hotel in Vienna from Melk Abbey. The next day, we head out to the Austrian alps to explore the beautiful forts, castles and meadows so picturesque that some of the most stunning shots in motion pictures were filmed there. Those photo-stories are at "Burg Hohenwerfen, Austria: Where Eagles Dare" and "Julie's Meadow, Marktschellenberg, Germany where the Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music & Salzburg, Austria, home of the Von Trapp family".

Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from Gemini.