Route 66, Ludlow, California

Hello again, fellow wanderers! It’s us, the Vagabond Couple, back with another chapter of our epic 9,000-mile road trip across the USA and Mexico. In the last Episode, we covered Death Valley into Yosemite | Eastern Sierra & Tioga Pass. Today’s adventure takes us from the towering peaks of Yosemite to the edge of awe-inspiring depths of the Grand Canyon, with plenty of surprises, detours and delicious food along the way. On the way, we reach Fresno, California - the westernmost point of our 9,000-mile #Trans#America loop, check out some authentic Punjabi Dhaba truck stops along Interstate 40 and spend some time on the historic Route 66. Buckle up, because this leg of the journey is all about contrasts - mountains and deserts, history and modernity and the kind of road trip stories that make you want to hit the open road yourself.

Oakhurst to Fresno: The Westernmost Point

We started our day early in Oakhurst, CA, the charming little town at the southern edge of Yosemite. After a quick breakfast, we hopped into Shehzadi (our trusty Toyota Tundra) and headed southwest on Route CA-99 toward Fresno. Fresno is a bustling city in California’s Central Valley and it holds a special significance for us - it’s the westernmost point of our epic road trip around the USA.

Fresno, California: Westernmost point of our 9,000-mile transcontinental North America roundtrip

As we pulled into Fresno, we took a moment to reflect on how far we had come. From our home near the Atlantic Coast in Hyattsville, Maryland, all the way across the vast United States to the Pacific Coast and now back eastward. It was a surreal feeling, standing there in Fresno, knowing that from here on, every mile would bring us closer to home. We snapped a quick photo to mark the occasion, then got back on the road, eager to continue our journey.

The Search for a Punjabi Dhaba

From Fresno, we continued south on CA-99 toward Bakersfield, a city known for its agriculture and, more importantly for us, its Punjabi Dhabas. For those who don’t know, a Dhaba is a roadside eatery popular in India, especially among truckers. These places serve up fresh, hot and incredibly tasty food - think buttery naan, spicy curries and steaming chai.

Closed Punjabi Dhaba on Costajo Road in Bakersfield, California

We’d heard that Punjabi Dhabas were becoming popular along Interstate 40 in the USA, thanks to the growing number of Punjabi truck drivers who’ve brought their culture and cuisine to American highways. We were determined to find one, but our first attempt led us to a closed Dhaba on Costajo Road. Undeterred, we kept searching and finally struck gold at a truck stop near I-40.

Ghar di roti Punjabi dhaba

Ghar di roti Punjabi dhaba, Bakersfield, California, USA

Punjabi Dhabas in California and Arizona offer a delightful taste of authentic homecooked meals, bringing the rich flavors of North India to the American West. These roadside-style eateries serve hearty dishes like creamy butter chicken, smoky tandoori roti and aromatic dal makhani, all prepared with traditional spices and techniques.

Ghar di roti Punjabi dhaba, Bakersfield, California, USA

The smell of spices hit us as soon as we walked into the Ghar di roti Punjabi dhaba and we knew we were in for a treat. We ordered a feast - butter chicken, dal makhani, garlic naan and, of course, a steaming cup of chai.

Ghar di roti Punjabi dhaba, Bakersfield, California, USA

The food was incredible and it felt like a little piece of home on the road. As we ate, we chatted with the owner, who told us about the growing community of Punjabi truckers in the area. It was a reminder of how diverse and interconnected America’s highways truly are.

We will have dinner at another Punjabi Dhaba in Arizona later today as our adventures for the day contine.

Route 66 at Ludlow, CA: A Blast from the Past

Historic gas station with historic vehicles on Route 66 at Ludlow, CA

After our delicious meal, we entered eastbound I-40, eventually reaching the historic town of Ludlow, CA. Ludlow is a classic Route 66 ghost town with a couple of scattered artifacts and memorabilia from the heyday of the “Mother Road”.

A truck named "Gurjot" (a north Indian Punjabi name) leaves Route 66 at Ludlow, CA

Route 66 is one of the most iconic highways in American history, stretching from Chicago to Santa Monica and serving as a symbol of freedom, adventure and the open road. Ludlow is a great place to experience a piece of that history, with its vintage gas stations, old motels and the iconic Route 66 sign.

Remnants of mine railway at Ludlow, CA

The Ludlow Mining Company mining cars outside the Ludlow Cafe offer a glimpse into the region's mining history and the heyday of the Mother Road. The general ambience of Ludlow captures the nostalgic spirit of the iconic highway, making it a worthwhile stop for history buffs and Route 66 enthusiasts passing through the Mojave Desert.

Crossing into Arizona: Kohinoor Dhaba and the Mojave Desert

From Ludlow, we continued east on I-40, crossing the border from California into Arizona. Our next stop was the Kohinoor Dhaba near Yucca, AZ.

Kohnioor Dhaba

Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

Kohinoor Dhaba (north Indian Punjabi Dhaba) is a popular spot for truckers and travelers alike. The Dhaba is located in the middle of the Mojave Desert, with stunning views of the surrounding mountains and desert landscape.

Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

The Dhaba meals are often accompanied by fresh salads, tangy pickles and cooling raita, creating a wholesome dining experience.

Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

With generous portions and a warm, rustic ambiance, these Dhabas provide a comforting taste of Punjab, making them a favorite among locals and expats alike.

Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

We ordered some snacks and fish and chicken pakodas with cups of chai, which was the perfect pick-me-up for a long day of driving. The food was delicious and the atmosphere was warm and welcoming.

Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

As we sipped our chai, we couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty of the Mojave - the vast, open expanse of desert, the rugged mountains and the endless sky.

Mojave Desert at Kohinoor Dhaba Indian Food (Punjabi Dhaba), Yucca, Arizona, USA

I-40 and AZ-64: A Journey Through Geology and History

From Yucca, we continued east on I-40, driving through the Mojave National Preserve. The preserve is a geological wonderland, with its sand dunes, volcanic cinder cones and Joshua Tree forests. It’s also steeped in history, with ancient Native American petroglyphs and artifacts scattered throughout the area.

As we drove, we thought about the Mojave people who have lived in this region for thousands of years. Their culture and legends are deeply connected to the land and it’s easy to see why - the Mojave Desert is a place of stark beauty and profound mystery.

At Williams, AZ, we exited I-40 and headed north on AZ-64 toward the Grand Canyon. The drive was breathtaking as always, with the road winding through forests of ponderosa pine and offering glimpses of the canyon in the distance. The Kaibab National Forest was particularly stunning, with its tall trees and cool, crisp air.

A Luxurious Night at the Grand Canyon

After a long day of driving, we finally reached the Squire Resort at the Grand Canyon, a very touristy and crowded luxurious hotel just south of Grand Canyon Village. The resort is a good base for exploring the canyon, with its comfortable rooms and resort vibe which was a welcome change from our rugged adventures so far, but we are not the resort type and will leave tomorrow for natural rugged wilderness again.

As we checked in, we couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement. It had been years since we last visited the Grand Canyon and we were eager to see its stunning beauty again. But for now, we were content to relax and recharge, knowing that tomorrow would bring another day of adventure and we will dive deep into the wonders of the Grand Canyon, from its towering cliffs to its ancient rock formations and the stories they tell, after which we will meet the stunning highway US-89 again to head to Page, Arizona via vivid colorful rainbow mountains and towering echo cliffs, Antelope Canyon overlook, Horseshoe Bend and much more. But for now, we’re signing off, still buzzing from the beauty of the Mojave Desert and the thrill of the open road.

Until next time, fellow wanderers, keep exploring, keep dreaming and remember: the journey is just as important as the destination.  

Reference route map of The Vagabond Couple's 9,000-mile USA & Mexico overland roundtrip: Map-1 and Map-2.

- The Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi