Paddlewheel Steamboat "Natchez" sailing on Mississippi River in New Orleans

We reached New Orleans yesterday afternoon (see NOLA Calling - From the Cajun Capital to the Soul of the South: Lafayette to New Orleans via Baton Rouge), parked Shehzadi in a secure paid parking lot close to our BnB, got ourselves "Jazzy Pass" fare cards which work on streetcars, buses and ferries and explored a bit of Bourbon Street before calling it a night. We woke this morning to soft light filtering through the shutters of our BnB at the corner of St. Charles and Euterpe. Outside, the streetcar tracks hummed with promise. This was the beginning of our last full day in New Orleans and the final planned stop of our 9,000-mile journey of discovery and education across the continent of North America. We didn’t need an alarm clock. The thought alone was enough to get us up and moving.

Mardi Gras ornaments hung on a tree on Melpomene St, New Orleans

Stepping out, we noticed Mardi Gras beads still dangling from the trees, glittering like forgotten treasure. That’s the thing about New Orleans: even when Mardi Gras is long over (it falls in February or early March, depending on the calendar), the city still carries its spirit like a second skin. For locals, Mardi Gras is more than a parade. It’s a cultural cornerstone - a celebration of life, resilience, heritage and letting loose before Lent. It’s king cake and costumes, brass bands and second lines, family traditions and all-out revelry. And it leaves colorful traces all year long.

Canal Street and Ferry across the Mississippi to Algiers Point

Armed with our shiny new Jazzy Passes from the Walgreens at Canal & Bourbon last evening, we hopped on the St. Charles streetcar straight into the heart of the city, hopping off at Canal Street.

Euterpe stop on St. Charles Streetcar in front of our BnB

The St. Charles Streetcar line, the oldest continuously operating street railway system in the world, began service in 1835 as the New Orleans and Carrollton Railroad, initially using steam-powered trains before converting to electric streetcars in 1893. Running along historic St. Charles Avenue, the line connects the French Quarter to Uptown, passing antebellum mansions, lush oak trees and Loyola and Tulane universities.

Aboard a 1920s Perley Thomas streetcar on St. Charles Streetcar line, the world's oldest continuously operating street railway system (New Orleans, Louisiana)

The iconic green Perley Thomas streetcars, introduced in the 1920s and now designated as National Historic Landmarks, remain a beloved symbol of New Orleans’ charm and resilience, having survived hurricanes, floods and modernization pressures. More than just transportation, the St. Charles Streetcar embodies the city’s heritage, offering both locals and visitors a nostalgic journey through the heart of New Orleans’ culture and history.

Canal Street is a grand avenue, once the widest street in America, is lined with architectural gems and stories. We wandered around the Saenger Theatre, a gilded relic from 1927 with a faux-night-sky ceiling; the historic Joy Theater with its neon marquee; and the elegant Ritz-Carlton, housed in a Beaux-Arts masterpiece that used to be Maison Blanche department store.

Canal St & Exchange Pl, New Orleans

Right near the corner of Canal and Decatur stands a special plaque marking the site of America’s first movie theater, opened in 1896 by Louis Lumière’s agents. For the first time in America, people took seats inside a big hall and stared at a large silver screen. That blew our minds.

Vitascope Hall Historical Marker (America's First Movie Theater) ahead of a Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen store at 621 Canal St, New Orleans

Along Canal Street, walking away from the vibrant chaos of Bourbon Street towards the Ferry Terminal, we encounter a fascinating blend of architectural styles reflecting New Orleans' rich history. Immediately adjacent to Bourbon, we find Creole townhouses, often featuring shops at street level with living quarters above, showcasing wrought-iron balconies and arched windows, hinting at the city's French and Spanish colonial past. As we move further downtown, the scale of the buildings generally increases, with American townhouses from the 19th century displaying Federal and Greek Revival influences, characterized by their more formal facades and sometimes grander scale.

Buildings along 600 block of Canal Street, New Orleans

Interspersed are commercial structures from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, exhibiting Italianate details like ornate cornices and window treatments, as well as early 20th-century styles like Beaux-Arts, seen in some of the grander former department stores. Later additions include more modern architectural styles, creating a diverse and layered streetscape that tells the story of New Orleans' evolving urban landscape.

Canal at S. Peters Streetcar Stop, New Orleans

We strolled along until we reached the Canal Street Ferry Terminal, our gateway to the other side of the Mississippi.

Ferry over Mississippi - Canal Street Ferry Terminal, New Orleans

New Orleans is called the "Crescent City" due to the distinctive crescent-shaped bend in the Mississippi River where the original city, the Vieux Carré (French Quarter), was built. The "Ferry over Mississippi" ride over the river to Algiers Ferry Terminal was pure magic. The breeze was cool, the sun high and the views? Jaw-dropping - the ferry offers a striking visual journey, blending urban energy with historic charm.

Departing from Canal Street (Downtown New Orleans)

Skyline & Riverfront

View of French Quarter from Canal St - Algiers Point ferry

As the ferry pulls away, the New Orleans skyline rises behind us, with modern high-rises like the Poydras Tower and the Four Seasons Hotel contrasting with the historic French Quarter’s low, brick-and-iron rooftops.

Downtown New Orleans Skyline seen from Canal Street - Algiers Point Ferry

Steamboats & Docks

The Natchez or other paddlewheel steamboats often sit along the riverbanks, their red paddle wheels and smokestacks evoking the 19th century.

Crescent City Connection Bridge

Crescent City Connection Bridge over the Mississippi

This massive twin-span bridge carrying highway US-90 BUS looms behind, its steel girders forming a geometric frame against the sky. At night, its blue lighting reflects on the river’s dark, rippling surface.

On the Mississippi River

Churning Waters: The Mississippi river’s muddy brown currents swirl with eddies and occasional driftwood, giving a sense of its powerful, relentless flow.

Tugboat on Mississippi performing "Water Salute" by shooting columns of water

Industrial & Working River: Tugboats push barges loaded with cargo, their wakes creating small waves that rock the ferry. Rusty docks and cranes line parts of the shore, remnants of the port’s industrial past.

Approaching Algiers Point (West Bank)

Quaint Riverfront: Algiers Point greets us with a small-town feel - tree-lined levees, pastel Creole cottages and the white steeple of the Holy Name of Mary Church peeking above the rooftops.

Algiers Point Welcome Sign at Ferry Terminal

Historic Charm: The Algiers Ferry Landing is a modest, green-roofed structure with a nostalgic vibe, surrounded by old brick buildings and shaded benches.

Exploring Algiers Point

Algiers Point Mural by New Orleans artist Lionel Milton on Bouny St, Algiers Point near Dry Dock Café

On the far shore, Algiers greeted us with quiet charm. Unlike the tourist-thick French Quarter, this neighborhood exudes calm. European-style houses with ironwork and pastel facades lined the streets.

We started walking on the pedestrian pathway right on the top of the Algiers Point levee. The levee is maintained by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (USACE) in partnership with the Southeast Louisiana Flood Protection Authority - West (SLFPA-W). The USACE oversees major infrastructure and flood control systems along the Mississippi River, while the SLFPA-W manages local levee inspections, maintenance and flood protection operations on the West Bank, including Algiers.

Algiers Point levee, New Orleans

The Orleans Levee District also plays a role in coordinating maintenance and ensuring the levee meets federal safety standards. This system ensures the levee remains structurally sound, protecting Algiers Point from Mississippi River flooding. The elevation of Algiers Point looked really low to our untrained eyes as if the water level of the Mississippi is higher than the ground level of the houses on the other side of the levee! It turns out there indeed are neighborhoods in Algiers Point that sit below sea-level, relying on the levee for protection from the waters of the Mississippi and the greater Gulf of Mexico.

One of the many disasters unleashed by Hurricane Katrina was private vigilantes at Algiers Point unleashing lethal firearm violence on racist lines even though the neighborhood largely escaped historic floods.

Algiers Point levee, New Orleans: Some neighborhoods are below sea level

The first impressive-looking building visible from the levee is the Algiers Courthouse standing as a stately landmark, its red-brick facade and white-columned portico exuding old-world grandeur.

Algiers Courthouse

Framed by towering oaks and the grassy levee, the 1896 building’s clock tower and arched windows reflect in the Mississippi’s shimmering light, offering a picturesque glimpse into the neighborhood’s historic charm. It is said the clock works sometimes.

In front of the Algiers Point Courthouse, a solemn plaque commemorates the harrowing history of the transatlantic slave trade in Louisiana, marking Algiers Point as one of the major disembarkation sites where enslaved Africans first arrived in the region. Erected to honor the memory of those who suffered under this brutal system, the plaque acknowledges the thousands of men, women and children forcibly brought to Louisiana, where they endured enslavement and exploitation on plantations. It serves as a reminder of the resilience and cultural contributions of African descendants, whose labor, traditions and resistance shaped the economic and cultural foundations of New Orleans and beyond. This memorial invites reflection on a painful yet pivotal chapter in history, ensuring that the legacy of those who endured slavery is never forgotten.

Transatlantic slave trade plaque at Algiers Point courthouse, New Orleans

New Orleans became one of the largest slave markets in the South, where thousands were bought, sold and subjected to brutal conditions. The cultural impact of this forced migration endures today, as African traditions profoundly influenced Louisiana’s language, music, cuisine and religious practices, shaping Creole and African American identity in the region. Despite its horrific legacy, the resilience of the enslaved and their descendants remains central to Louisiana’s cultural heritage.

Canal Commercial Trust and Savings Bank, Algiers Branch

We walked the Algiers levee past the old Algiers Branch of Canal Commercial Trust and Savings Bank. From the levee, Patterson Road unfolds as a charming showcase of architectural diversity, where historic New Orleans styles blend with more modern influences.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Creole cottages, with their steeply pitched roofs and dormer windows, sit alongside shotgun houses, their narrow, elongated frames often painted in bright hues.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

A few raised-center-hall villas from the late 19th century stand proudly, their wide galleries and ornate columns hinting at Victorian elegance.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Interspersed among them are mid-century brick ranches and post-Katrina raised homes, reflecting the neighborhood’s evolving resilience. Still, the reminders of Hurricane Katrina haven’t fully vanished. On some buildings near the levee, the waterlines from the 2005 flood are faint but present - a ghostly high-water mark of tragedy and endurance. Algiers Point, being slightly more elevated than other neighborhoods, escaped the worst, but the levee system here plays a critical role. It protects neighborhoods that sit below sea level - keeping the water out, most of the time.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

The Renecky shoe Co. was a historic footwear manufacturer based in Algiers, operating in the early to mid-20th century. Though records are scarce, the company was part of the city’s once-thriving industrial landscape, producing durable work boots and shoes for laborers, dockworkers and everyday residents.

Renecky shoe Co., Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Renecky's factory likely stood near the Algiers riverfront, where manufacturing and shipping intersected along the Mississippi. Today, little remains of the original structure - it may be a repurposed warehouse or lost to time. However, the name lingers in local memory, a reminder of Algiers’ blue-collar past when cobblers, tanneries and factories supported the neighborhood’s working-class roots. We saw a ghostly white spooky mannequin looking out of an upstairs window of the ghost building!

A ghostly mannequin looking out of upstairs window of abandoned Renecky shoe Co., Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Overgrown banana trees, palms and azaleas soften the streetscape, while the occasional Greek Revival facade - with its symmetrical design and bold pediments - adds a touch of grandeur.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

The result is a visually rich streetscape where time periods and styles coexist, framed by the quiet flow of the Mississippi just beyond the levee.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Cooper Mooring was a historic maritime service company that operated along the Mississippi River, providing essential mooring, docking and ship supply services to vessels navigating the busy port. Located near Algiers Point, it played a key role in the mid-20th century as part of the area’s bustling industrial and shipping economy. The company likely handled barges, tugboats and cargo ships, tying into New Orleans’ legacy as a critical hub for river trade.

Strolling along Algiers Levee next to Patterson Rd, Algiers Point, New Orleans

While the exact location and remnants of Cooper Mooring are difficult to trace today, its presence would have fit within Algiers’ working waterfront - a landscape of warehouses, dry docks and maritime operations that supported the city’s economy. Like many old river industries, it may have faded with the decline of small-scale port operations or been absorbed by larger logistics firms. 

We wandered near Crescent Towing, where tugboats rested lazily in the water and then turned back on the levee towards the ferry terminal to continue to the other side to check out the Jazz Walk of Fame.

Crescent Towing, Algiers Point, New Orleans

Eventually we reached the Jazz Walk of Fame - a humble but heartfelt stretch honoring the legends of New Orleans music.

Jazz Walk of Fame, Algiers Point Levee, New Orleans

Bronze plaques and busts paid tribute to heroes like Louis Armstrong, Fats Domino, Mahalia Jackson and more. Their presence was felt in the air, like echoes in the wind.

Louis Armstrong statue on Jazz Walk of Fame, Algiers Point Levee, New Orleans

Algiers isn’t heavy on tourist attractions and that’s its strength. Generally loitering around the streets of Algiers Point from Dry Dock Café to Crown & Anchor English Pub and beyond, we lingered in bookshops and admired homes with shaded porches and fluttering curtains. We even found a House of the Rising Sol Bed and Breakfast which may have been the inspiration for the legendary 1964 song "House of the Rising Sun" (which starts with "There is a house in New Orleans/They call the Rising Sun/And it's been the ruin of many a poor boy/Dear God, I know I was one") by The Animals, maybe?

It felt real. Peaceful. Like the kind of place you move to when you’re done chasing crowds.

The Return Trip

Evening Magic: riding the ferry back at dusk, the skyline lights up and the bridge’s illumination casts shimmering reflections on the water. The Moonwalk and Woldenberg Park on the downtown side become dotted with tiny figures enjoying the riverside.

This short but scenic ferry ride is a moving postcard of New Orleans - where industrial grit, historic beauty and the mighty Mississippi converge in one unforgettable crossing.

The French Market

Decatur St and Dumaine St, New Orleans

We ferried back to the French Quarter and started walking on Decatur Street towards the iconic Café du Monde. Oh man, the Decatur and Dumaine spot near the French Market is pure New Orleans - Decatur’s all chaos and charm, with tacky souvenir joints, beignets dusted like snow and bars slinging hurricanes, while the old iron balconies watch the mess go down.

Decatur St, New Orleans

Duck onto Dumaine, though and suddenly it’s all quiet Creole cottages, gas lamps and ghost stories, like the city took a deep breath. And smack in the middle? The French Market, where you’re hit with crawfish boils, zydeco (brass band) tunes and enough hot sauce to set your soul on fire. Day or night, this place feels alive - part flea market, part jazz club, part food coma waiting to happen. Just follow the music (and maybe a stray parade)!

Decatur St, New Orleans

Tujague’s (Est. 1856)

Tujague’s on Decatur Street is a New Orleans legend - this ain’t just a restaurant, it’s a time capsule of Creole cuisine and French Quarter history. Opened in 1856, it’s the second-oldest restaurant in New Orleans (only Antoine’s est. ~1840 beats it) and stepping inside feels like walking into a 19th-century bistro - dark wood, antique mirrors and white tablecloths that have seen a century’s worth of gossip and gravy. The menu’s packed with old-school NOLA classics: think boiled brisket with Creole horseradish sauce (their signature dish since the 1800s), shrimp remoulade and grasshopper cocktails so minty-green they glow.

Tujague’s, Decatur St.

The standing-only bar (original from the 1850s!) is where locals and tourists squeeze in for Sazeracs and stories. Location-wise, it’s right in the thick of the French Quarter hustle - across from the French Market, a stumble from Jackson Square and deep in the land of hungover tourists and jazz-fueled chaos. If walls could talk, Tujague’s would spill secrets about riverboat gamblers, Mardi Gras kings and maybe a ghost or two. Go here for lunch - it’s cheaper, quieter and you can pretend you’re a 19th-century merchant plotting your next smuggling operation. Cash only, because, of course it is.

Café Du Monde Mail Order

Café Du Monde’s Mail Order Spot on Decatur is your golden ticket to getting those iconic beignets and chicory coffee shipped straight to your doorstep - no drive (or flight) to New Orleans required! Right in the heart of the French Quarter (800 Decatur St., across from Jackson Square), this little corner of powdered-sugar paradise lets you grab boxes of their famous mix (just add water and fry!) or cans of their smooth, bold chicory coffee blend to-go.

Café Du Monde Mail Order, Decatur St.

The shop itself is no-frills—think sacks of coffee beans, stacks of beignet mix and the faint, sweet smell of doughnuts lingering in the air. It’s way quicker than braving the 24/7 café line (you know, the one that snakes down the block at 3 a.m.). They’ll even ship it all home for you, so you can recreate that French Market magic in your kitchen - just don’t blame us when your entire house ends up dusted in powdered sugar.

Pro tip: Grab a pre-packaged beignet kit for emergencies (Mardi Gras withdrawals count) and snag a souvenir tin of coffee - it’s cheaper here than at the airport! Cash or card, but bring extra for impulse buys - those pralines on the counter are deadly tempting.

Café Du Monde Mail Order, Decatur St.

"Laissez les bon temps rouler"… straight to your mailbox. 🎭☕

Café du Monde

Queue for a table at Café du Monde

This place has been fueling locals and visitors with café au lait and powdered sugar-drenched beignets since 1862. There’s nothing like it.

Café du Monde, New Orleans

But, it is a hit with tourists and there is a long queue to get into the huge covered seating area when we got there. Reportedly the queue there is 24/7 too!

Queue for a table at Café du Monde

Fortunately the queue moves fast as tables are released by prior customers and a large super-efficient crew clean them up pronto!

The famous Café au Lait and Beignets at Café du Monde

• Café au Lait (hot or iced) = Their signature blend of dark roast coffee + chicory, steamed with milk
• Beignets (3 per order) = Pillowy fried dough buried under a blizzard of powdered sugar; "One order of beignets = one order of happiness." 🎻✨

We got a table after a quick wait in the queue and soon had powdered sugar flying in the breeze, listening to a nearby saxophonist pour his heart into a solo.

Café du Monde, New Orleans

Pro tip: Go late-night or early morning to try to dodge the epic lines. And wear black? (RIP to your clothes after powdered sugar explosion.)

The surrounding French Market is New Orleans' iconic lively sprawl of stalls, shops and history. Once a Native American trading post and later a colonial open-air market, it’s now a melting pot of hot sauce vendors, handmade jewelry and artists sketching your aura for ten bucks.

Decatur Street at Café du Monde; Jackson Square & St. Louis Cathedral in the distance

Around here, the architecture still speaks with a Spanish accent - fitting, since New Orleans was the capital of Spanish Louisiana from 1762 to 1800. Street signs bear names like “Calle Chartres” as reminders.

Spanish Louisiana Street Name Sign: Camino Real = Royal Road, Muelle = Dock, Pier or Wharf

There is a dazzling, long red building at the corner of St. Ann and Chartres, dripping with ornate wrought-iron balcony rails that look like black lace against its fiery façade - this is the French Quarter at its most iconic. With its emerald-green shutters, flickering gas lanterns and three stories of Creole grandeur, it’s the kind of place where you’d expect a jazz musician to lean over the railing or a 19th-century debutante to whisper scandalous secrets.

St Ann St. & Chartres St

That bold crimson hue? Classic New Orleans - meant to pop against the swampy heat and outshine even the liveliest Mardi Gras float. Once a boarding house for riverboat rogues and star-crossed lovers, today it’s likely luxury digs for those who appreciate a side of history with their Sazeracs. Just steps from Jackson Square, it glows at sunset like a vintage postcard - so snap a photo, then wander down Pirate’s Alley to keep the magic going.

Pro tip: The ironwork is perfect for framing your most dramatic Quarter selfie. ⚜️🎷

Strangely, we fondly remembered Pachamama's own red sandstone creations that we were lost in the middle of southern Utah just a few days ago.

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

We made our way to Jackson Square, the historic heart of the city. Musicians jammed under the oaks, artists lined the wrought-iron fences and tarot readers flipped cards beneath sun umbrellas.

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral from Washington Artillery Park across Decatur St

The statue at the center of Jackson Square is a bronze equestrian monument of Andrew Jackson, the seventh U.S. president and the namesake of the square. Erected in 1856, the statue commemorates Jackson’s victory in the Battle of New Orleans (1815), the final major conflict of the War of 1812, which made him a national hero.

Equestrian monument of Andrew Jackson at Jackson Square

Designed by sculptor Clark Mills, the statue is notable for being one of the first to depict a horse rearing on its hind legs without additional support - a technical achievement at the time. The base bears the famous inscription: "The Union Must and Shall Be Preserved", added during the Civil War to assert federal loyalty.

Facing St. Louis Cathedral, the statue symbolizes Jackson’s military legacy and his controversial ties to New Orleans, despite his later policies, such as Indian Removal. Today, it remains a focal point of the French Quarter, surrounded by artists, musicians and history.

Street Magician performing in front of St. Louis Cathedral

Dominating the scene is the St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest continuously active Roman Catholic cathedral in the U.S. 

The cathedral is dedicated to King Louis IX of France (1214 - 1270), the only French king canonized as a saint by the Catholic Church. Known for his piety, justice and leadership during the Crusades, Louis IX became a symbol of moral integrity and devotion. The cathedral was named in his honor when New Orleans was founded in 1718 as part of French Louisiana, reflecting the colony’s ties to the French monarchy. The cathedral’s name also pays homage to the city itself - "La Nouvelle-Orléans" was named after Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, Regent of France, but the spiritual patronage ties back to the revered saint-king. St. Louis’ feast day (August 25) was once a major local holiday in French colonial times! Also check out our photo story The Palace of Versailles: A Triumph of Elegance and Grandeur.

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

Inside, it was breathtaking. High vaulted ceilings, stained glass glowing like jewels and hush so profound you could hear your own awe.

Stained Glass Windows of St. Louis Cathedral

Alright, let’s talk a bit more about the OG of U.S. cathedrals - St. Louis Cathedral has been holding court in Jackson Square since before America even had states. Picture this: 1718, French settlers plop down a tiny wooden church and name it after their sainted king. Fast forward a few decades and whoops - the whole thing burns to the ground twice (thanks, Great Fires of 1788 and 1794).

St. Louis Cathedral

The Spanish swoop in like, “We got this,” and rebuild it with those fancy Moorish vibes it’s still rocking today.

Then comes 1815 and ol’ Andrew Jackson rolls in after kicking British butt at the Battle of New Orleans. Dude literally shows up for a victory lap mass like, “Y’all see what I did?” (The cathedral, being polite, nods and hangs a plaque about it.)

Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral

By the 1850s, the church gets a glow-up with those iconic three spires, because one spire just wasn’t extra enough. But wait - 1909 brings a plot twist: an anarchist bomb goes off inside. The cathedral shrugs it off like, “Please. I survived yellow fever and hurricanes. Try harder.”

Street Magician performing in front of St. Louis Cathedral

And oh boy, does it survive hurricanes. Katrina hits in 2005 and while the city drowns, this place just sighs, mops up a puddle and keeps the lights on.

Jackson Square viewed from St. Louis Cathedral towards Washington Artillery Park Waterfront

These days, it’s still the ultimate multitasker: hosting jazz funerals for legends (RIP, Allen Toussaint), posing for vampire movies and even getting a papal side-eye from John Paul II in 1987.

St. Louis Cathedral ceiling (composite)

The clock out front? A gift from Louis XVI that still ticks… when it’s in the mood.

St. Louis Cathedral ceiling

Pro tip: Pop in for free - the murals inside sneak Louisiana swamps into Bible scenes, because why not? Just don’t lean on the pews; they’ve earned their rest. ⚜️😇

The main altar of St. Louis Cathedral features a statue of St. Louis holding the Crown of Thorns (a relic he acquired for France), emphasizing his role as a "soldier of Christ". Set beneath a graceful canopy of white and gold, the altar is made of white marble and features classical architectural lines. It stands against a backdrop of rich paintings and soft, sky-toned hues that elevate the entire sanctuary. Above the altar is a stunning oil painting of The Crucifixion, adding depth and reverence to the space. Fluted columns and intricate moldings surround the altar, while golden accents reflect the soft light that filters through the stained-glass windows.

Altar of St. Louis Cathedral, New Orleans

What makes this altar especially powerful isn’t just its beauty - it’s the sense of legacy. Generations have prayed here. Marriages, baptisms, funerals and Masses have unfolded before this same altar for centuries. As you stand there, the silence is heavy with memory. It’s not just a piece of architecture - it’s a living witness to New Orleans’ complex, resilient and faith-filled soul.

Altar in der Kirche Cathedral-Basilica of Saint Louis King of France (Basilica minor) in New Orleans, Luisiana, USA By Arnoldius - Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, Link

To the left of the cathedral stood The Cabildo, where the Louisiana Purchase was finalized.

The Cabildo

To the right, the Louisiana State Museum. Together with the Cabildo, they tell the story of empires, revolutions and cultures colliding.

Louisiana State Museum

Across the square, we spotted the JAX Brewery building, now home to shops and a riverfront promenade, but once the site of the locally beloved Jackson Brewing Company. Everything here has a backstory.

JAX Brewery Building

Riverside Reflections

Mississippi River at Moonwalk Riverfront Park

From Jackson Square, we drifted toward the Moonwalk Riverfront Park. At the spot marking the execution of Jean Baptiste Baudrau II (one of Louisiana’s grimmer bits of history), we descended the stairs to the water. Sitting beside the flowing Mississippi, we watched the historic steam-powered paddlewheel boats - Creole Queen and Natchez - float past in the golden light.

Creole Queen sailing the Mississippi River at Moonwalk Riverfront Park

These steamboats are echoes of an earlier era. We remembered our ride aboard the Tom Sawyer back in St. Louis. Same rotating wheels. Same wood-paneled decks and steam whistles. Same river. Different city. Different moment in time.

Moon Over Bourbon Street

CALLE D BORBON - Spanish Luisiana name for Bourbon Street

Bourbon Street, located in the heart of New Orleans' French Quarter, is one of the most iconic streets in America, renowned for its vibrant nightlife, rich history and cultural significance. Established in 1718 when New Orleans was founded, the street was named after the French royal House of Bourbon.

Bourbon Street

Initially a residential area, it evolved into a bustling commercial hub in the 19th century, with theaters, cabarets and jazz clubs flourishing amid the city's Creole culture. By the early 20th century, Bourbon Street became synonymous with jazz, thanks to legendary musicians like Louis Armstrong and Jelly Roll Morton, who performed in its clubs.

A man holds a sign promoting the Huge Ass Cantina at 706 Bourbon St

Over time, Bourbon Street transformed into a tourist hotspot, famous for its Mardi Gras celebrations, neon-lit bars and open-container laws. While often criticized for its commercialization, Bourbon Street remains a symbol of New Orleans' enduring spirit, blending French, Spanish, African and American influences into a unique cultural experience that continues to attract millions of visitors each year.

Maison Bourbon, Preservation of Jazz

This iconic venue has been keeping traditional jazz alive since 1960. The walls are lined with photographs and brass instruments and the music is pure, unfiltered swing.

Maison Bourbon Dedicated to the Preservation of Jazz

Maison Bourbon, located at 641 Bourbon St in the heart of New Orleans' French Quarter, is a legendary jazz club that has played a vital role in preserving traditional jazz since its founding in the 1950s. Established during a time when jazz was evolving into modern forms, Maison Bourbon became a sanctuary for Dixieland and classic New Orleans jazz, offering a stage for both seasoned musicians and emerging artists.

Over the decades, it has maintained an intimate, authentic atmosphere, attracting jazz purists and tourists alike. The club's dedication to preserving the roots of jazz has made it a cultural landmark, contributing to New Orleans' reputation as the birthplace of the genre.

Maison Bourbon Dedicated to the Preservation of Jazz, Bourbon Street, New Orleans

Through live performances and its unwavering commitment to tradition, Maison Bourbon has helped keep the spirit of early jazz alive, influencing generations of musicians and ensuring that the sounds of Louis Armstrong, Jelly Roll Morton and other jazz pioneers continue to resonate in the modern era.

We stayed for three sets, each more electric than the last. The convention (and the rule) here and the Jazz Clubs in general is purchase of one drink per set, which we gladly adhered too with the first few of many Bloody Marys that night!

Watch a video recording of a part of the live jazz performances that we were fortunate to watch here.

Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub

Fritzel's European Jazz Pub

If Maison is a temple, Fritzel’s is a chapel. Dark wood, candlelight and a house band that could’ve played with Satchmo himself. (For the uninitiated, Louis Armstrong earned the nickname "Satchmo", short for "Satchel Mouth", as a playful nod to his famously wide grin and embouchure - the way he stretched his lips around his trumpet mouthpiece.)

Fritzel's European Jazz Pub, Bourbon Street, New Orleans

Fritzel's European Jazz Pub, located at 733 Bourbon St also in the heart of New Orleans’ French Quarter, has been a cornerstone of the city’s vibrant jazz scene since its founding in 1969. Established by Mike Fritzel, the club was designed to preserve and celebrate traditional New Orleans jazz, offering an intimate setting where both seasoned musicians and rising stars could perform.

Fritzel's European Jazz Pub

Over the decades, Fritzel’s has evolved into a cultural landmark, known for its authentic Dixieland jazz, lively atmosphere and dedication to musical heritage. The club has hosted legendary artists and continues to draw jazz enthusiasts from around the world, contributing to New Orleans’ reputation as the birthplace of jazz.

Live Jazz Performance at Fritzel's European Jazz Pub, Bourbon Street, New Orleans

Fritzel's enduring legacy lies in its commitment to keeping classic jazz alive while fostering a sense of community among musicians and audiences alike. Fritzel’s remains a must-visit destination, embodying the soul and history of New Orleans’ musical traditions.

Watching Live Jazz Performance at Fritzel's European Jazz Pub, Bourbon Street, New Orleans

More drinks. More sets. More joy. If we lived here, we’d never go to bed. Watch a video recording of a part of the live jazz performances that we were lucky to watch here.

Dinner at The World Famous Cats Meow

We ended our night having dinner upstairs on the balcony of The World Famous Cats Meow at 701 Bourbon St - half karaoke bar, half chaos and all New Orleans. It has been a cornerstone of New Orleans nightlife since it opened in 1994, quickly becoming one of the most beloved karaoke bars in the French Quarter.

Bourbon Street view from 2nd floor balcony of The World Famous Cats Meow

Known for its vibrant atmosphere, enthusiastic crowds and legendary performances, the venue has hosted countless locals, tourists and even celebrities over the years.

Dinner at 2nd floor balcony of The World Famous Cats Meow

The bar’s evolution from a simple karaoke spot to an iconic entertainment hub reflects Bourbon Street’s lively spirit, where music and revelry are central to the culture. The Cat’s Meow’s influence extends beyond its walls, shaping the karaoke scene nationwide and embodying the fun-loving, unapologetically bold essence of New Orleans nightlife. Its neon sign and infectious energy have made it a must-visit destination, solidifying its place in the city’s cultural fabric.

Bourbon Street view from 2nd floor balcony of The World Famous Cats Meow

From our perch, we watched the sea of humanity surge through Bourbon Street as we tucked into plates of crawfish étouffée, blackened redfish and a wild dessert called Bananas Foster Bread Pudding. The party below? Just getting started.

Bourbon Street view from 2nd floor balcony of The World Famous Cats Meow

But us? We’d had our fill of magic for one day. We headed back down St. Charles to our BNB, past beads and streetlamps and the distant sounds of a saxophone.

New Orleans was the final planned stop of our journey. But the road? She’s still got stories to tell.

Tomorrow, we rescue Shehzadi from her parking spot and start heading home northeast across Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee and Virginia into Maryland - a story we tell at The Last Thousand Miles to Home: New Orleans, Louisiana to Hyattsville, Maryland.

Reference route map of The Vagabond Couple's 9,000-mile USA & Mexico overland roundtrip: Map-1 and Map-2.

Until next time,

- The Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi