"Sing the River" sculpture on Mississippi River levee, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

After a night of true Cajun indulgence in Lafayette (see San Antonio Riverwalk in Texas to Cajun Heartland of Lafayette, Louisiana), we woke up feeling both full and refreshed. Fezzo's boudin and gumbo still lingered in our dreams, but it was time to move on. The road east was calling again and Shehzadi - our fearless Toyota Tundra -was already rumbling with anticipation in the hotel lot.

We loaded up and waved goodbye to the heart of Cajun country, with its French roots and swampy soul and pointed our compass toward one of the most iconic cities in America: New Orleans. But first, we had a date with a river we hadn’t seen since way back in Missouri.

Baton Rouge: Meeting the Mississippi Again

The drive from Lafayette to Baton Rouge was smooth and scenic, with stretches of marshland and moss-draped trees giving us that distinct Louisiana flavor. We cruised into Baton Rouge by late morning, rolling alongside the Mississippi River with a strange sense of nostalgia.

"Top Fuel" Gas Station, N Foster Dr, Baton Rouge

It had been weeks - many states and many stories - since we last met the mighty Mississippi in St. Louis. Back then, we’d taken a river cruise and marveled at the city’s Gateway Arch. Now, here we were again, farther south and with a much deeper appreciation for how this river ties so much of America together.

Baton Rouge felt different from Lafayette - more urban, more vertical, but still very much grounded in French and Cajun heritage. Its name “Red Stick” comes from the red cypress poles used by local Native Americans to mark tribal hunting grounds. History runs deep here. It’s where Acadian exiles - the same ones we talked about in Lafayette - eventually blended into the local fabric, bringing their language, music and cuisine.

Sing the River

We parked Shehzadi near the riverfront and walked along the levee, admiring the sleek steel "Sing the River" sculpture donated by the Rotary Club of Baton Rouge. The one that’s basically Baton Rouge’s fanciest wind chime? Yeah, that sleek metal wave parked along the downtown levee is the work of artist Po Shu Wang, with a little help from the Rotary Club.

Sing the River Sculpture on the Mississippi

When the breeze kicks in, this thing doesn’t just sit there looking artsy - it actually sings (or at least hums a tune, depending on how generous your ears are feeling). It’s like the Mississippi River’s personal backup singer, harmonizing with the water and giving tourists something cooler to do than just sweat in the Louisiana heat.

Sing the River Sculpture & Mississippi River Levee at Baton Rouge

Installed back in 2014, it’s still out there being Baton Rouge’s most melodic landmark - part sculpture, part concert, all river vibes. Just don’t expect Beyoncé-level vocals.

Sing the River Sculpture, Mississippi River Bridge & Levee at Baton Rouge

Seriously, though, the "Sing the River" rises skyward like a modern totem, framing the river and the magnificent Mississippi bridge that spans it. There’s a sense of movement here - of people, history, trade - and it all flows to the rhythm of the water.

Views of Baton Rouge from rooftop sushi bar

Louisiana Art & Science Museum, Irene W. Pennington Planetarium, Mississippi River Bridge and the Port of Baton Rouge

Craving something a little different after days of rich Southern cuisine, we grabbed lunch at a rooftop sushi spot with river views. This hidden gem of a restaurant offering perhaps the best views of the Baton Rouge riverfront is at the top floor of the LSU Museum of Art building.

Watching barges drift by while eating spicy tuna rolls might seem like cultural whiplash, but in this part of America, mashups are part of the DNA. Some of the most iconic Baton Rouge landmarks were also directly visible from our table and the rooftop porch of the restaurant.

Old State Capitol, Louisiana

From our table, we looked out at the Louisiana State Capitol - the tallest in the U.S. - and admired the blend of art deco and southern grit in the city’s architecture.

Old State Capitol, Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Galvez Plaza Stage

The Galvez Plaza Stage in downtown Baton Rouge is a vibrant outdoor venue that hosts everything from live music and festivals to cultural events and community gatherings. Named after Spanish Governor Bernardo de Gálvez, the plaza sits near City Hall and the River Center, offering a prime spot for entertainment under the open sky.

Galvez Plaza Stage, Baton Rouge

Whether it’s jazz concerts, food truck rallies, or holiday celebrations, this stage brings energy to the heart of the city. With its casual, welcoming vibe, it’s the perfect place to grab a bite, enjoy local talent, or just soak up Baton Rouge’s lively spirit. (Just don’t forget the sunscreen - Louisiana sun doesn’t play around!)

EBRPL River Center Branch Library & 19th Judicial District Courthouse

It’s the kind of view that pairs perfectly with a cocktail, especially (we wish!) over sunset painting the whole scene in golden Louisiana light! The East Baton Rouge Parish Library’s River Center Branch stands out with its sleek, glass-paneled design, reflecting sunlight like a beacon for book lovers. Next to it, the imposing 19th Judicial District Courthouse looms with its stately columns and grand architecture, a reminder of the city’s deep legal roots.

EBRPL River Center Branch Library & 19th Judicial District Courthouse, Baton Rouge

Together, these landmarks frame the skyline against the river’s steady flow - where quiet reading nooks and courtroom dramas coexist just a block apart.

St. James Episcopal Church

The St. James Episcopal Church, located in downtown Baton Rouge, is a historic and architecturally striking landmark. Established in 1844, the Gothic Revival styled church features soaring stained-glass windows, intricate woodwork and a serene, timeless atmosphere.

St. James Episcopal Church, Baton Rouge

Known for its active congregation and community outreach, St. James hosts traditional worship services, concerts and cultural events. Its picturesque steeple and peaceful courtyard make it a quiet retreat amid the city’s hustle - a blend of faith, history and Southern charm.

Historic Hotel Heidelberg (now Hilton Baton Rouge Capitol Center)

Originally opened in 1927 as the Hotel Heidelberg, this is a lavish 14-story Beaux-Arts landmark that was the tallest building in Louisiana at the time. Designed by renowned architect Leon Weiss, it featured grand ballrooms, ornate plasterwork and a rooftop garden, quickly becoming the social hub of Baton Rouge.

Hilton Baton Rouge Capitol Center, Baton Rouge

After decades of decline, it was meticulously restored and reopened in 2006 as the Hilton, blending its original 1920s glamour - like the restored lobby’s terrazzo floors and grand staircase - with modern luxury. Today, its mix of historic elegance and sleek updates makes it a standout on the Mississippi riverfront, offering both nostalgia and upscale comfort.

The Port of Greater Baton Rouge

The Port of Baton Rouge is one of the busiest inland ports in the U.S., handling millions of tons of cargo each year, including bulk goods like grain, coal and petroleum, as well as heavy project cargo like steel and machinery.

Port of Baton Rouge

As a major hub on the Mississippi River, it supports both imports and exports, connecting the region to global markets. While primarily focused on freight, the port also occasionally serves passenger vessels, including river cruises that stop in Baton Rouge as part of their Mississippi River itineraries. Its strategic location and deep-water access make it a vital economic engine for Louisiana.

The economy here is tied closely to government, petrochemicals and the mighty river itself. But beneath the industry and infrastructure, there’s that ever-present Cajun pulse: zydeco (brass band) beats, spicy food and folks who know how to live.

Onward to New Orleans

We hit the road again after lunch, continuing east on I-10. The land flattens and grows more waterlogged the closer you get to New Orleans. Bridges span bayous. Spanish moss sways from the trees. The air gets thicker, sweeter. The road gets moodier, swampier, dreamier.

Welcome to NOLA!

It has long been in our bucket list! Finally, by late afternoon, we rolled into the city of New Orleans, Louisiana (affectionately called NOLA) and found our Airbnb right across the streetcar stop at St. Charles Ave. and Euterpe. Yes, that St. Charles - home to Mardi Gras parades, historic mansions and one of the oldest continuously operating streetcar lines in the world.

Historic Streetcar (Tram) on St. Charles Avenue, New Orleans

The place was cozy and perfectly placed for exploring. After quick showers and a wardrobe refresh, we hopped on the delightfully maintained old streetcar as the sun dipped below the horizon, casting golden light on the oaks lining St. Charles Avenue.

Canal St viewed from pedestrian-only Bourbon St, New Orleans

We rumbled down to Canal Street, the main drag that divides the French Quarter from the Central Business District. As we stepped off, we could hear the hum of Bourbon Street - music, laughter and the clink of glasses floating on the air.

Note: NOLA "Jazzy Passes" that allow unlimited rides on streetcars, buses and ferries are easily bought at the Walgreens at this intersection.

Bourbon Street

We wandered into one of the jazz clubs with open-air seating, drawn by the brass-heavy melody spilling onto the sidewalk. Inside, the band was electric - horns, piano, upright bass. No microphones. Just raw, honest sound. We ordered jambalaya (because when in NOLA, you don’t not get jambalaya) and, yes, another round of boudin.

Bourbon St, NOLA

The food was fire. The music? Even better. And the people - tourists and locals alike - danced, clapped and raised glasses in celebration. You don’t just visit Bourbon Street. You join it. It swallows you whole and makes you part of the soundtrack.

One of endless bowls of Jambalaya on Bourbon Street, NOLA

As we soaked it in, we reflected on New Orleans' layered history. This city was ruled by the French, the Spanish, the French again and finally the United States - all before the 19th century. That explains the wrought iron balconies, the French Quarter's layout and the heavy French-Creole presence. But there’s also the darker history - the Native American tribes who lived here first, the enslaved Africans brought to the port, the wars, the hurricanes.

Yet New Orleans endures. It evolves. And somehow, it always throws a party.

Homebase on St. Charles

We got back to our Airbnb late - feet tired, ears still ringing, hearts completely full. Outside, the streetcar clanged past like a lullaby and Shehzadi rested under a canopy of Spanish moss.

Mamma lizard watching over her baby in front of our airbnb on Charles Ave, NOLA

This was only our first of three nights in New Orleans, but it already felt like we’d lived a dozen lives here.

Planning for the next day

Our plan for the next day: we cross the river by ferry to Algiers Point - one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods, return to French Quarter's tourist chaos and by nightfall, more jazz club hopping. That story is next at NOLA Deep Dive - a Perfect Day in the Crescent City | New Orleans, Louisiana.

Reference route map of The Vagabond Couple's 9,000-mile USA & Mexico overland roundtrip: Map-1 and Map-2.

Until next time,

- The Vagabond Couple and Shehzadi