The Old Vine - Stara trta: Maribor, Slovenia & the world's oldest vine plant bearing grapes for making wine

by - July 26, 2019

The Old Vine, Maribor, Slovenia
The Old Vine (Žametovka): World's oldest plant bearing grapes for making wine

The Guiness Book of World Records documents the World's Oldest Vine: "The Old Vine, in Maribor, Slovenia, is nearly 400 years old. A scientific measurement of the vine carried out in 1972 established that the vine was then at least 350 years old and may have been up to 400 years in age. (It was impossible to establish a more precise age because the central plinth was rotten.)." Here is The Vagabond Couple Travel Blog photo-story on visiting this very unique city and precious plant and tasting the wine from one of its children.

Visiting the world's oldest vine in Maribor, Slovenia, is a delightful detour for travelers journeying like us (see Split to Dubrovnik via Neum on Adriatic Highway D8: Driving Europe's Most Beautiful Highway in Croatia with a Taste of Bosnia & Herzegovina) from the sun-soaked shores of Split, Croatia, to the imperial grandeur of Vienna, Austria. As one embarks on this scenic route through the heart of Europe, a stop in Maribor offers a unique opportunity to delve into centuries of winemaking tradition. Tucked away in Maribor's charming Old Town, on the banks of the tranquil Drava River, the venerable vine known as "Žametovka" stands as a living testament to the region's viticultural heritage. Estimated to be over 400 years old, this ancient vine has survived the ravages of time and continues to produce a modest yield of grapes each year.

We start driving from Split towards Zagreb and then on to Maribor on the legendary scenic Croatia A1 motorway. There is a toll station located near Dugopolje on A1 between Split and Zagreb. The Dugopolje toll plaza is located a bit north of Split. These toll booths are used to collect revenue for entering the A1 motorway.

Toll station Dugopolje (Naplatna postaja Dugopolje) entering Croatia A1 Motorway / European E71 highway from Split
Toll station Dugopolje (Naplatna postaja Dugopolje) entering Croatia A1 Motorway / European E65 / E71 highway from Split

Slovenia uses a vignette system for their motorways, but these are electronic vignettes and cannot be purchased at the border itself. You can purchase a vignette online through the official DARS (Slovenia's Motorway Company) website dars.si. The website is available in multiple languages including English. Alternatively, many gas stations close to the Slovenian border in Croatia sell vignettes for Slovenia. They have signs advertising vignette sales.

As we get close to Zagreb and the Slovenian border, we purchase our Slovenia vignette just before the Zagreb-Demerje toll plaza from a little store called "Javna govornica Plitvice sjever" next to an "INA Lučko sjever" gas station.

Czech Republic and Slovenia Vignettes on our car's windshield
Czech Republic (left) and Slovenia (right) vignettes on our car windshield

While not ideal since you would technically be driving a short distance without a vignette, some gas stations just inside Slovenia from the border crossing also sell vignettes.

The cross the next toll plaza on A1 motorway which is the Zagreb-Demerje toll station. This toll plaza is located a few kilometers before Zagreb. Unlike the Dugopolje toll station, Zagreb-Demerje accepts only plastic and electronic toll payments. There are no cash lanes at this station.

Toll station Zagreb-Demerje (Naplatna postaja Zagreb-Demerje) exiting Croatia A1 Motorway / European E71 highway at Zagreb
Toll station Zagreb-Demerje (Naplatna postaja Zagreb-Demerje) on Croatia A1 Motorway / European E71 highway at Zagreb

We reach the last toll plaza before the Slovenia border. This is the Naplatna Postaja Trakošćan toll plaza located on the A1 motorway in Croatia near the village of Gornji Macelj. It is located just before the Granični prijelaz Macelj land border crossing from Croatia to Slovenia.

Naplatna Postaja Trakošćan toll plaza, Gornji Macelj, Croatia
Naplatna Postaja Trakošćan toll plaza, Gornji Macelj, Croatia

Goodbye sign at Croatia's border with Slovenia, E59, 49225, Gornji Macelj, Croatia
Goodbye sign at Croatia's border with Slovenia, Gornji Macelj

The most common border crossing between Slovenia and Croatia is the Macelj Border Crossing (Granični prijelaz Macelj MAP) located on the stunning A1 motorway (European E59 Highway) which is often called Europe's Most Scenic Highway. This is the most direct route for travelling between Split and Maribor.

Macelj Border Crossing (Granični prijelaz Macelj), Croatia-Slovenia
Macelj Land Border Crossing (Granični prijelaz Macelj), Croatia-Slovenia

Slovenia Welcome sign after crossing Macelj Land Border Crossing (Granični prijelaz Macelj) from Croatia
Slovenia Welcome sign after crossing Macelj Land Border Crossing from Croatia

The distance between Split, Croatia and Maribor, Slovenia (MAP) is approximately 426 kilometers (265 miles) along the A1 motorway, taking approximately 5 hours and 15 minutes of driving time without stopping. Traffic can be heavy, especially during peak season, so we made sure to factor that in when making our travel plans.

A4 / E59 Motorway (Slivnica - Draženci), Slovenia
A4 / E59 Motorway (Slivnica - Draženci), Slovenia

We finally reach Lent, the Old Town district of Maribor, Slovenia and have lunch at the Gril Ranca restaurant next to the Old Vine House (Stari trt) on Dravska ulica. The restaurant has outdoor seating with a lovely view of the Drava River.

Drava river at Lent in Old Town Maribor, Maribor, Slovenia

Drava river at Lent in Old Town Maribor, Maribor, Slovenia

Drava river at Lent in Old Town Maribor, Maribor, Slovenia
Drava river at Lent district in Maribor Old Town

Gril Ranca, Dravska ulica 10, 2000 Maribor, Slovenia
Gril Ranca outdoor seating

Gril Ranca's specialties include cevapcici (skinless sausages), pleskavica (a patty of minced meat) and lepinja (flatbread). They also offer other grilled meats, salads and side dishes. They are particularly known for their house specialty of Pleskavica Ranca.

Grill Ranca, Maribor

Grill Ranca, Maribor
Traditional Slovenian food at Grill Ranca

For travelers making the journey from Split to Vienna, a visit to the world's oldest vine provides a fascinating glimpse into Slovenia's rich winemaking history. The vineyard, carefully tended by generations of local winegrowers, is a symbol of resilience and longevity, its gnarled trunk and verdant foliage evoking a sense of awe and reverence. Visitors can explore the vineyard's surroundings while wandering through cobblestone streets lined with historic buildings and vibrant cafes. The nearby Maribor Castle offers further insight into the city's cultural heritage, with its medieval architecture and museum showcasing artifacts from times gone by.

World's oldest vine growing on facade of Old Vine House (Stari trt), Maribor, Slovenia
World's oldest vine growing on facade of Old Vine House (Stari trt)
Click here for 360 panorama

The Old Vine House (Stari trt) is the historic house (Hiša Stare trte) that is home to the oldest vine in the world. The vine, a Žametovka or Modra kavčina variety, still produces grapes that are used to make a special limited edition wine. The Old Vine itself is a fascinating sight. It grows on the facade of the Old Vine House and its branches sprawl out for over 15 meters.

Old Vine House (Stari trt) entrance door
Old Vine House (Stari trt) entrance door

The Old Vine House has a museum that tells the story of the vine from its planting in the late Middle Ages to the present day.

Old Vine House (Stari trt) Museum
Old Vine House (Stari trt) entrance

We are lucky enough to be visiting during a year when there is a harvest and able to taste the unique Old Vine wine. This wine is bottled in special 2.5 deciliter bottles designed by a famous Slovenian artist.

Wine from grapes grown on the Old Vine in tasting bottles
Wine from grapes grown on the Old Vine in 15ml tasting bottles

The Old Vine House also has a wine bar where you can taste a selection of wines from the greater Štajerska Slovenia wine region.

The Old Vine House also has a gift shop where you can buy souvenirs such as bottles of Old Vine wine, T-shirts and postcards. The Old Vine House is open every day from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm (with shorter hours on Sundays from December to March). There is a small admission fee to enter the museum.

Wine from the Old Vine's grapes being packed for us
A bottle of wine from the Old Vine's grapes being packed for us

The Old Vine House is a popular tourist attraction, so it can get crowded, especially during the summer months. If you are interested in tasting the Old Vine wine, be sure to check ahead of time to see if it is available.

Sampling the exquisite wines derived from the Žametovka grapes is an experience not to be missed. The vine's annual grape harvest ceremony, celebrated with great fanfare in September, is a highlight of the local calendar, drawing visitors from far and wide to partake in the festivities. From crisp whites to robust reds, Maribor's wines embody the terroir of the region, reflecting the unique character of its landscape and climate.

Maribor city's district of Lent is a lively neighborhood buzzing with cultural and historical attractions right in the heart of Maribor behind the Old Vine House.

Maribor, Slovenia: Old Town Main Square (Glavni trg) and Town Hall
Lent district - Maribor Old Town Main Square (Glavni trg) and Town Hall

The Maribor Town Hall (Mariborski rotovž) is the seat of the municipal government of Maribor, Slovenia. It is situated on the town's Main Square (Glavni trg).

Maribor Town Hall (Mariborski rotovž)
Maribor Town Hall

Built in 1515, Maribor Town Hall was remodeled in Renaissance style between 1563 and 1565. In the mid-19th century, it was again renovated in the late Classical style, but was later restored to its original 16th-century appearance.

Narrow Alley in Old City, Maribor, Slovenia
One of the numerous narrow alleys in Lent district of Old City, Maribor. This one connects Glavni trg  (main square) to Vojašniška ulica along the Drava river

As we continue our journey from Maribor to Vienna, we carry with us memories of a bygone era, steeped in tradition and imbued with the timeless allure of winemaking. The world's oldest vine serves as a poignant reminder of the enduring connection between past and present, offering a glimpse into the cultural tapestry of Central Europe. For those traversing the historic route from Split to Vienna, a stop in Maribor is not just a pit stop but a journey back in time, where the spirit of winemaking lives on in every vine and every glass raised in toast to the ages.


Note: Prose in this post received AI assistance from ChatGPT and Gemini.



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